Search for a vintage style dive watch continues
I decided that there were three watches in contention to replace my Bulova MIL-SHIPS. This weekend I went to an AD who had all three in stock to try them on.
I was hoping the Oris would look less cartoony in person, but I don't think it did. It also felt much cheaper on the wrist compared to the other two. I like some of the other colorways better than this one, but I very much want no date.
The Longines feels very premium and has a different look than most anything I own. I'm still not sure how I feel about the bronze though. I like the look of it new. But will I like it with patina? I very much like the brown dial version in steel, but it has that pesky date. I have heard rumblings of a 39mm version coming soon and it possibly has no date. If there's a brown 39mm with no date, I might be swayed (Especially since Longines tend to wear bigger).
The Seamaster 300 feels very good on the wrist, but it doesn't really feel that much more premium than the Longines. Until you flip it over and look at the movement of course. It has an odd lug width, which I don't love, but the strap is good enough that I'm not super bothered. The quickset hour hand is really cool. I'm very torn between this and the Longines. I think I ever so slightly prefer this, but at about twice the price I don't know if I prefer it enough.
Of course throwing a wrench into all this is the new Tudor Black Bay. I'm waiting to see one in person, but the new case, the lollipop seconds, and the burgundy bezel are all very appealing. I didn't love the standard gilt dial Black Bay, and the blue dial looked too much like my Pelagos. But this might be different enough to have both. I still think I wouldn't, because owning three Tudors in a small collection seems excessive.
Mid 40's. Trying to keep a well curated, small collection.
Follow your heart man! If you prefer the tudor above the others I think you should go for it. A suggestion, if you already have a modern dive watch maybe you can think to buy a real vintage. Let us know what you choose!
I'm also waiting on the fabled 39mm Longines, assuming it comes with the same movement as the 42mm version, should be an easy choice. My experience with the Seamaster 300 was that it was super shiny, perhaps a little blingy (I preferred the finish of the Railmaster). A 38mm Oris Diver 65 with the caliber 400 would be really tough to resist too, I find the 40mm wears quite large. So there we go, two imaginary watches...
Have you looked at the Ultra-Chron by the way? Large but very impressive watch.
Follow your heart man! If you prefer the tudor above the others I think you should go for it. A suggestion, if you already have a modern dive watch maybe you can think to buy a real vintage. Let us know what you choose!
I have a vintage Caravelle Sea Hunter (though I removed the bezel). So I do have a vintage diver of sorts. I like having a faux vintage diver when I want the look, but don't want to feel like I have to baby what I'm wearing. I do like my Bulova MIL-SHIPS for this, but I'm reaching the point where it just kind of feels cheap when I put it on after anything else in my collection.
I'm also waiting on the fabled 39mm Longines, assuming it comes with the same movement as the 42mm version, should be an easy choice. My experience with the Seamaster 300 was that it was super shiny, perhaps a little blingy (I preferred the finish of the Railmaster). A 38mm Oris Diver 65 with the caliber 400 would be really tough to resist too, I find the 40mm wears quite large. So there we go, two imaginary watches...
Have you looked at the Ultra-Chron by the way? Large but very impressive watch.
I believe the Longines is coming with the same movement (from the leak I saw). The renders also didn't have a date, which I like.
The Seamaster 300 is more blingy than I'd like really, but take it off the bracelet and it loses most of that.
I did consider the Ultra-Chron, but it person, it kind of felt like a less fun Doxa.
I have a vintage Caravelle Sea Hunter (though I removed the bezel). So I do have a vintage diver of sorts. I like having a faux vintage diver when I want the look, but don't want to feel like I have to baby what I'm wearing. I do like my Bulova MIL-SHIPS for this, but I'm reaching the point where it just kind of feels cheap when I put it on after anything else in my collection.
I see your point, so yes the sad solution is to buy another watch, what a shame😉. Ahhaahha
Buy the one that reaches out and grabs you that you regret putting down. Watch boxes are full of impulse buys and novelties but the ones you wear have stronger pull on your interests. Although you had me at Longines....
I’ve just gone through the exact same longines vs Seamaster 300 process. I chose the Seamaster, primarily because it was a big milestone (40th birthday/15th anniversary), I could afford it at the moment, and my wife pushed for the Seamaster as a casting vote. The Seamaster 300 is a stunning watch (hasn’t come off my wrist since), and will be hard to top as my main/primary watch. But that longines is something special as well. I don’t think you can lose either way. If you’re genuinely torn between the two, maybe go the longines. If you’re leaning towards the Seamaster and can afford it I don’t think you’ll regret it. A good problem to have!
I am a dive watch fan. I currently have three in my collection including the blue 300 heritage. It is an awesome watch and the bracelet is fantastic. I really like to Longines as well. I will put one in the collection maybe next year. I was on a "no new watches" in 2023, but I have been bad and already purchased three. Long story to say what why you like the best and can afford. All great choices at the end of the day.
I know you said you don't love gilt and are averse to adding another Tudor, but the Black Bay 54 they just released couldn't be more vintage-styled if it tried. Very faithful remake of the original. Of course, 37mm won't be for everyone.
The Pelagos 39 is the one that reached out grabbed me. It’s made me rethink all my plans.
The Rado Captain Cook is another more affordable option to consider.
Although I find it hard to argue against the Legend Diver.
I almost forgot about the brown Captain Cook.
Like some have already said here, follow your gut. Personally I really love the Longines! But at the end of the day definitely try them all out and see what feels best. Definitely let us know what you chose and why? It's always good to hear from other watch obsessed people as to how and why they made the choice, as I think we always have that internal struggle with all the options out there! All the best!👍
I think Tudor would be a great strategy for a collection, my two satoshi’s is all 🙂 . I feel the same about dates .
I think I recognize that store.
Get the watch you love, and maybe change your handle to Tudorguy or Tudornut?
This was my solution to the LLD no date conundrum...
I didn't see these available on the Helson website anymore but they did have these which could be a nice vintage diver supplement. I also own one of these on mesh and I love it.
I think for design, bang for buck on specs and movement, and potential resale value in case you ever upgrade:
Black Bay 58 or Black Bay 54
I own the Seamaster 300 in blue, and I also own the BB Pro (not quite the same as the BB 58, but close enough). Between the two, I would say the Seamaster 300 wins. It's the most comfortable watch I own and the blue bezel and crown are perfect. It's the perfect shade of blue, imho. You'll also get a 120 click bezel on the Seamaster 300, whereas (I think) the BB 58 has a 60 click bezel. I also prefer the action on the Seamaster.
You might find some solace in this Vulcain Nautique. I was looking for an old school skin diver for a long time and then they released this. A bit pricey at around 1600 usd but it fills all the things that I was looking for. And it has a ceramic bezel as well as an easily serviceable ETA movement
Thanks everyone. As cool as the micro brands suggested might be, I'm just not in the market for any of them.
I do very much like the Legend Diver 36 and the Black Bay 54. However, I have a large wrist (though shrinking, I've lost a 1/4" since the first of the year), and I don't think those will look great on me. I don't mind wearing small watches, but with a dive watch and having a large bezel I think the smaller watches end up looking even smaller. A 39mm is about as small as I'd really go with a diver. And even if I do end up meeting all my weight loss goals, I doubt my wrist is going to get much below 7.5".
I do really like the new Burgundy Black Bay as well. But it does have a lot in common with the Pelagos I already own, and I own two Tudors currently (Pelagos FXD and 1926). Having 3 Tudors in a < 10 watch collection does seem excessive.
Right now I'm leaning towards the Longines. I really like the Omega. When I stop about it sometimes I like the Omega more, but at others I prefer the Longines. But when I really think about it, the Longines fits the need I'm looking to fill more than the Omega. This is a watch that is going to be worn very casually, and usually just a few times a month. I'll wear it paired with "work" wear in situations where wearing a true vintage watch doesn't make sense. The Omega just feels fancier than that. I almost think that the Blue Omega would be the better choice to replace both my Pelagos and my MIL-SHIPS. But I don't want to ever replace my Pelagos. The final thing pushing towards the Longines is the lug width. I have a handful of leather, fabric, rubber, elastic, and sailcloth straps in 22mm. Instantly having close to a dozen different options to wear the watch is quite appealing.