Dive Watch Collection Conundrum
Looking to round out my collection (for now) and searching for some feedback. I have bought and sold many other watches over the past few years but decided that for me I just love divers. I don’t have occasion to get dressed up and have no desire to change that. I like clicky bezels. I like some heft. I like the idea that maybe one day I’ll need to travel 1000 feet into the ocean and I’ll be prepared. I appreciate FP Journe and Patek and George Daniels, but a dive watch with some knocks and scratches is just who I am. I’ve tried to collect pieces from brands that have some history producing dive watches, and would like to sell a few of these and add a few specific models, but figured why not ask and see what direction people think I should go. Here is what I have now (with pics and a little description) followed by a few things I’m contemplating in order to round things out.
A few rules:
- I only want one watch from a manufacturer. I don’t know why. It just is what it is.
2. Can’t be more than 12 total because I have two winders that hold six each and I’m OCD 😂🤷🏻♂️
3. Mechanical only. I’m not inherently opposed to the idea of quartz watches, but the only reason I collect is that I like the notion that a tiny bunch of wheels and springs and gears can keep the time.
Hope this is fun to look at, sorry for the length of the post, and please let me know your thoughts if you have the time to add them…thanks!
Current State of Affairs:
- Ulysse Nardin 266-33 Maxi Marine Diver Rose Gold “Havana”
I tried one of these on in my twenties (Early 40s now) and decided then that one day I would have it. Very difficult to find model in this colorway in rose gold. This one is a t shirt and jeans flex monster. Particularly if you’re traveling in the company of Bond-villain arms dealers, but I don’t care. Love it as a thing I always wanted and finally got. This one stays for sure.
2. Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600m “White on White on White“ 42mm
Love this thing. Saw it somewhere and then searched until I figured out the model. Could only find one used online at a store in Tokyo, so ordered it and love it. Great summertime watch. This one stays too I think.
3. Breitling SuperOcean Steelfish
It’s sitting a little funky on the wrist in my pic. Sorry bout that. Also sorry for the crappiness of most of these photos 😂. This was the first “nice” watch I ever bought. Used from the Tourneau store. Have had it serviced twice in 15 years. Runs great. Too much sentimental value to ever part with it.
4. Doxa Sub300T Professional
If you’re going to collect dive watches you have to have a Doxa. And if you’re going to get a Doxa, it should prolly be orange. Nuff said. It stays.
5. Zodiac Super Sea Wolf “Aquamarine Dream”
Great colors, cool bezel. Brand with cool dive history. This one stays.
6. Seiko Urban Safari Prospex
This is my work watch. I wear this more than any of the others. Keeps terrible time. But if it gets smashed I don’t care. Could stay or go to be honest.
7. Magrette Moana Pacific Bronze 1st Edition
New Zealand micro brand. My little sister is married to a Kiwi and lives in New Zealand. Seemed cool at the time. Really comfortable but to be honest never gets any wrist time. This one could go.
8. Mido Star Decompression Timer 1961 Limited Edition
This is a good looking watch but gets no wrist time. This one should go.
9. Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days PAM00682
This has kind of taken the place of the Seiko as the daily beater work watch. Very comfy and not ridiculously sized for a Panerai. Last of this version with the in house movement. I also think if you’re going to have 12 dive watches one should be a Panerai. I think I would like to keep this one but you tell me.
10. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Titanium
Modern version of the Godfather of all dive watches. Surprisingly light for its size (45mm). Beautiful and extremely accurate movement. Fun to wear on both the factory sailcloth as well as a host of NATO straps I have for it from MN. This one stays unless I sell it for an original from the 60s or one of the Barrakuda / No Rad / Mil Spec models.
Now to what I have my eye on…
🌊Glashutte SeaQ Green / Green 39.5mm
I like the brand, want something green 🤷🏻♂️
🌊Rolex Sub 5513 or 14060 or Seadweller 16600
Something with a little patina?
🌊Cartier Calibre de Cartier Diver
Need something blue if I part with the Magrette. Have heard good things about this diver and I like the layout of the dial.
🌊Longines HydroConquest Green 41mm
Had one of these in 43mm format. Was too big and the crown dub into my wrist. Sold it. Liked it so maybe go same watch but smaller 🤔
🌊JLC Polaris Date or Memovox
They make this one in green now as well and there was a LE in blue a few years ago. Would like to have a JLC.
Roger Dubuis Easy Diver 40mm or 43mm
I only like the older Roger Dubuis. Before the company’s namesake was forced out and subsequently passed away. Pic is of a 46mm but that’s waaaay too big. Always thought the fit and finish on their early watches was spectacular.
Those are kinda the ones I was thinking about, but I’m at an impasse here. Don’t know what to do. Any thoughts or suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks!
I also really like a dive watch, though I tend to go towards the more affordable end of the market but my two cents would be:
This Chris Ward
I know you’ve got the Doxa but CW do these in 2 other colours black (which actually looks like a cool grey colour) and blue. It’s a really cool looking watch, very comfortable and while available second hand now I believe isn’t being made anymore. CW do more than just divers but that seems to be the bulk of their inventory.
And the other one I’d recommend is the Photic Diver from Clemence watches.
A small Scottish micro. They’re currently out of stock but should be getting some more in at the end of the month. I tried this on when I met with the company founder a couple of weeks ago and I’m completely sold on it.
I’m pretty sure you’ve got more experience than me but these are 2 I really like. The CW uses a Selita movement and the Photic a Miyota so upkeep shouldn’t be too tricky.
Good luck 👍
I also really like a dive watch, though I tend to go towards the more affordable end of the market but my two cents would be:
This Chris Ward
I know you’ve got the Doxa but CW do these in 2 other colours black (which actually looks like a cool grey colour) and blue. It’s a really cool looking watch, very comfortable and while available second hand now I believe isn’t being made anymore. CW do more than just divers but that seems to be the bulk of their inventory.
And the other one I’d recommend is the Photic Diver from Clemence watches.
A small Scottish micro. They’re currently out of stock but should be getting some more in at the end of the month. I tried this on when I met with the company founder a couple of weeks ago and I’m completely sold on it.
I’m pretty sure you’ve got more experience than me but these are 2 I really like. The CW uses a Selita movement and the Photic a Miyota so upkeep shouldn’t be too tricky.
Good luck 👍
Thanks Matt! I do like that Photic 😍 Will go check it out now!
What about something like this?
Memovox has my vote if you can manage to acquire it. That and the Cartier. That color blue would look nicely in your collection I think next to the Zodiac. I am somewhat surprised you are not considering a Breitling Superocean 42 or 44. Colors for those might be a bit similar to some of the others in your collection but they do look quite nice to me.
You have a very nice collection. I prefer any of these three to any of the possible replacements.
Memovox has my vote if you can manage to acquire it. That and the Cartier. That color blue would look nicely in your collection I think next to the Zodiac. I am somewhat surprised you are not considering a Breitling Superocean 42 or 44. Colors for those might be a bit similar to some of the others in your collection but they do look quite nice to me.
Love the Memovox. Have found a few under $10k but not sure about how it would wear with the three crowns. And seeing as none of the ones I’ve found are anywhere close by I’ve held off thus far. I already have a SuperOcean, it was my first watch. I never get two from the same company. Dumb rule I know but 🤷🏻♂️
What about something like this?
Both good looking and I love that case style. I need to see these in the metal and do some reading on the movement differences between mine and the higher end Seiko watches. The Seiko I have keeps such terrible time I’m not sure I’d wanna throw bigger $ at a better one 😂
You have a very nice collection. I prefer any of these three to any of the possible replacements.
Very kind - thank you! When I look in the box I like the Magrette and the Mido as well…but the problem is that they never actually get worn even when I make a concerted effort to put them in the rotation neither makes it more than a day. I don’t know how that can be fixed 😂 The Panerai I think I’m going to switch to my daily wearer at work.
Very nice collection. I definitely learn towards that GO and get rid of the Zodiac, only because of my bad experiences with mine and all the spots they cut corners on it. I also agree that the swapping the Mido could be an upgrade. Keep the seiko, because every collection needs one to take the beatings on behalf of the rest of the collection. I like the Cartier as well, not many people have it and it will definitely set itself apart.
Love the SeaQ! I've been trying to convince my dad to trade his Seadweller for one (for reference, his current collection is.... Two sea dwellers). Personally I prefer the panorama date version, but both versions get a thumbs up from me
For your other slot, you could do a Seiko mod. One thing I like about my mods is that when I feel like a new watch, I just need to order a couple of parts instead of a whole watch. It keeps it fresh!
The green Longines is my choice. Don't commit to the Polaris without trying one on. It's a great watch but bezel is too loose for my comfort. Have you looked at the Rado Capt Cook?
Which model # has the hesalite? The new PH200M I saw a write up on had a sapphire crystal. The washed out blue and the black versions I saw were both fantastic looking. I really like the original Certinas - actually almost pulled the trigger on a vintage 60s one a few months ago.
Very nice collection. I definitely learn towards that GO and get rid of the Zodiac, only because of my bad experiences with mine and all the spots they cut corners on it. I also agree that the swapping the Mido could be an upgrade. Keep the seiko, because every collection needs one to take the beatings on behalf of the rest of the collection. I like the Cartier as well, not many people have it and it will definitely set itself apart.
Thanks! I’ve heard the horror stories but decided to get it just because the bezel is so damn pretty - hoping it doesn’t fall apart 🤞🏼🤦🏻♂️
I think the Cartier might be next 👍🏼
Thanks Matt! I do like that Photic 😍 Will go check it out now!
It’s a really nice watch and Tom’s a fellow cruncher who’s open to questions if that sparks your interest.
Excellent collection! particularly like the Panerai submersible.
out of your picks, i’d pick the GO and Rolex Sea dweller to add to the collection
my personal takes and i’d recommend the following for you to consider;
great position to be in OP, and fantastic collection!
Ooh - love this kind of a post.
I'm going to avoid commenting on what should stay versus what should go.
I'm also not going to duplicate any of the ones you already have in the collection - Fifty Fathoms is the best together with Doxa Sub300 Professional - classics both.
Instead I'm going to show you some of the favorites in my collection (all modern references - vintage would be a completely different list) and make you think about adding a third watch winder 😉
2. Aquastar "Deepstar" - because you really need a dive watch chronograph
3. Audric "Seaborne" - had to put at least one microbrand in here and this one is amazing
4. Breguet "Marine" - another dive watch chronograph but oh so classy
5. Certina "DS PH200M" - someone mentioned this reference in the thread and it's a beauty
6. Eterna "Kon Tiki" - classic brand at least worth thinking about adding one
7. Favre-Leuba "Raider Sea Sky" - the ultimate beastly dive watch chronograph
8. Jenny "Caribbean" - reissue of the classic from the 1960s
9. JLC "Polaris Memovox" - a most amazing watch - the dial is spectacular
10. Longines "Ultra Chron" - someone else mentioned this one in the thread - amazing watch
11. Seiko '65 - this is such a classic design and the reissue looks fantastic
12. Seiko "Barakuda" (custom mod) - I know this is cheating but I couldn't resist
13. Squale "Super Squale" - had to slip one rare Squale in here
14. Tudor "Black Bay '58 Bronze" - had to get a Tudor in the list and all bronze
15. Waltham "Field & Marine" - another beastly dive watch with a gorgeous dial
16. Yema "Superman" - 1960s reissue on a cool fish scale bracelet
17. Zelos "Swordfish" - meteorite dial and all bronze including bronze bracelet
Tried to avoid all the more obvious dive watches - maybe at least one of these will compete for that open slot 😀
Personally I would have sold one winder, kept the mido, the fifthy, the doxa and mqybe the Pan? Then I would have two spots where new watches could audition for a permanent spot. I find it stessful to have too many watches, watches need some wristtime ❤️
Maybe you can upgrade your Seiko to Capt Willard? 🤔
As others have said, impressive and interesting collection. Love the lack of hype watches in your collection with some quirky pieces.
What a collection! fantastic. Can I ask about your OCD ? How do you feel about looking at the Longines hydro diver with a numerical dial and large numbers at that, but then they leave out the number 3 in order to accomodate a date at the 3 position. Dont rush into a Rolex. Read jenni Elles thoughts on youtube in her latest post. The bubble graph!
Here are some dive watches that I'm considering adding to my growing collection. Right now, the only dive watch I own is an Orient Kanno blue dial.
2. Tudor Pelagos, m25600tb-0001, 42mm
3. Damasko DSUB50, 43mm
I wish you luck selecting the last few divers to round out your collection!
Like the new Pelagos a lot. The lug to lug on the skin diver and legend diver are too long IMO. I prefer the hydryconquest to those two
Yeah, the long lug length on a lot of the Longines sports watches are annoying ok. I've tried both the 41mm Hydroconquest and the 39mm and the smaller one suited me a lot better. I could have gotten the Conquest VHP 41mm at a considerable discount less than but it felt quite chunky and I want to save up for the Conquest or Hydroconquest automatic in 39mm or maybe the Spirit or Tudor 1926.
So many good watches you have and good suggestions too! Here's my humble input:
Thank you so much for your thoughts and kind words - really appreciate it!
I know the Baltic of which you speak. It’s beautiful. I think if I’m going to go with the compressor looking case and two crowns it will have to be the JLC…but damn that one is really pretty.
I think the consensus here is that the Seiko needs an upgrade. I’m in complete agreement. Am looking at GS or maybe a Willard. I know this is incredibly stupid but I cannot stand the GS logo on the dials. I don’t know why. Something about it reminds me of Olde English font and takes me to a place of fake Irish pub - they’re wonderful, innovative, amazing dial detailing and finishing, etc. But I cannot get over the font.
Maybe something from Tudor. i have some more budget recommendations:
Boldr odyssey
Out Of Order watch because they come with a patina out of the box.
loriar Neptune
Some oris I don’t know there catalog well
a Baltic
i would go with the boldr personally
Yeah, the long lug length on a lot of the Longines sports watches are annoying ok. I've tried both the 41mm Hydroconquest and the 39mm and the smaller one suited me a lot better. I could have gotten the Conquest VHP 41mm at a considerable discount less than but it felt quite chunky and I want to save up for the Conquest or Hydroconquest automatic in 39mm or maybe the Spirit or Tudor 1926.
When I first saw the skin diver it was love at first sight. Other than the lugs. Makes absolutely no sense. If you look where they’re drilled it’s legit almost 3mm in from the end of the lug on each side. I fell deep into internet searches for how to grind down and re-finish lugs before coming to terms with the fact that it was unfixable 😂
What a collection! fantastic. Can I ask about your OCD ? How do you feel about looking at the Longines hydro diver with a numerical dial and large numbers at that, but then they leave out the number 3 in order to accomodate a date at the 3 position. Dont rush into a Rolex. Read jenni Elles thoughts on youtube in her latest post. The bubble graph!
HydroConquest now off the list 😂
Can’t unsee it.
As others have said, impressive and interesting collection. Love the lack of hype watches in your collection with some quirky pieces.
thanks so much!
Just put an offer in on the Cartier - seemed like a popular choice 🤞🏼
I don’t know why but I am not attracted to square watches 🤷🏻♂️🤦🏻
What a collection! fantastic. Can I ask about your OCD ? How do you feel about looking at the Longines hydro diver with a numerical dial and large numbers at that, but then they leave out the number 3 in order to accomodate a date at the 3 position. Dont rush into a Rolex. Read jenni Elles thoughts on youtube in her latest post. The bubble graph!
Watching Jenni‘s thoughts now - thanks 👍🏼
Ooh - love this kind of a post.
I'm going to avoid commenting on what should stay versus what should go.
I'm also not going to duplicate any of the ones you already have in the collection - Fifty Fathoms is the best together with Doxa Sub300 Professional - classics both.
Instead I'm going to show you some of the favorites in my collection (all modern references - vintage would be a completely different list) and make you think about adding a third watch winder 😉
2. Aquastar "Deepstar" - because you really need a dive watch chronograph
3. Audric "Seaborne" - had to put at least one microbrand in here and this one is amazing
4. Breguet "Marine" - another dive watch chronograph but oh so classy
5. Certina "DS PH200M" - someone mentioned this reference in the thread and it's a beauty
6. Eterna "Kon Tiki" - classic brand at least worth thinking about adding one
7. Favre-Leuba "Raider Sea Sky" - the ultimate beastly dive watch chronograph
8. Jenny "Caribbean" - reissue of the classic from the 1960s
9. JLC "Polaris Memovox" - a most amazing watch - the dial is spectacular
10. Longines "Ultra Chron" - someone else mentioned this one in the thread - amazing watch
11. Seiko '65 - this is such a classic design and the reissue looks fantastic
12. Seiko "Barakuda" (custom mod) - I know this is cheating but I couldn't resist
13. Squale "Super Squale" - had to slip one rare Squale in here
14. Tudor "Black Bay '58 Bronze" - had to get a Tudor in the list and all bronze
15. Waltham "Field & Marine" - another beastly dive watch with a gorgeous dial
16. Yema "Superman" - 1960s reissue on a cool fish scale bracelet
17. Zelos "Swordfish" - meteorite dial and all bronze including bronze bracelet
Tried to avoid all the more obvious dive watches - maybe at least one of these will compete for that open slot 😀
Oh man 🤦🏻♂️
This is the response I was hoping I didn’t get…now I need two new winders 😂😂😂
Amazing collection sir! Love the Aquastar 😍, love the Memovox 😍, and the Kon Tiki - although for me I think if I went Eterna I would do vintage…
The Breguet is great - those hands are 🔥 I’ve looked at these long and hard but I don’t consider it a “true” dive watch (dumb I know). I love the dual time references in particular.
Also - you aren’t going to offend me…in the beginning of your post you say you aren’t going to delve into what should stay vs what should go - please do!!!