I paid $13 USD for this field watch from China. Here's what I got for my money.

I've definitely owned watches made wholly or partly in China, given that Casio, Timex, and countless micro brands source Chinese parts and assembly all the time.

But, I've never had a direct-from-China watch sold under a Chinese brand. I'd heard a lot of buzz here about San Martin and Seagull and others and wanted to see for myself if these inexpensive watches were worth the hype.

So, I saw a black friday deal that was too good to resist and snagged this Dirty Dozen style field watch to see how much Chinese watch $90 USD would get me. The answer is a lot. Especially since I paid $13 for this little beaut!

It's in a 36mm bead-blasted 316L ss case and uses a VD78 movement. AR-coated sapphire crystal, full bi-color lume, screw down crown and case back for 100m water resistance. It's got a sterile dial and a spec sheet that rivals any $200 - $300 micro offering.

It came on a cheap, vintage-style leather band which I quickly changed out for a silicone waffle strap.

I'm going to spend a little more time with it before passing judgement, but first impressions are good. I may review it, we'll see.

Reply
·

AliExpress watch is here to stay I feel. Just like how microbrand is keeping big brands on their toes.

AliExpress is keeping the microbrands on their toes.

·

I mean, how bad can it get? Unless it disintegrates into a fireball you're fine. The case, dial and hands alone would be worth $13.

·
chengyil

AliExpress watch is here to stay I feel. Just like how microbrand is keeping big brands on their toes.

AliExpress is keeping the microbrands on their toes.

Definitely this. China is following the same arc as post WW2 Japan did. Japanese goods were seen as cheap trash after the war, but by the 80s, Japan was the unrivaled global titan of innovative, quality electronics.

China has proven they're capable of producing high-quality goods across almost every category. It makes sense that instead of getting just a slice of white label profits, they're moving more toward keeping the whole pie. They just need to prove they can build brand respect and innovate with original designs (Ciga Blue Planet, anyone?) to be a real juggernaut.

The luxury brands have to justify their price over the micros and the micros have to pull up their socks or China's gonna eat their lunch.

·
hbein2022

I mean, how bad can it get? Unless it disintegrates into a fireball you're fine. The case, dial and hands alone would be worth $13.

Exactly. Heck, the cheap strap it came on was probably a $13 Amazon buy on it's own. Either I happened upon a midnight madness sale, or someone made a pricing error, but even at the current discounted price of ~$75 this handily beats any big brand or micro peice you could get for the price. I definitely have watches that cost much more and offer less. It's certainly got me eyeing my collection...🧐

·

Yeah, it looks alright. However, it pisses me off that a watch company that doesn't manufacture their watch for the British military is using the broad-arrow sign. For clarity, I feel the same about the Omega NTTD Seamaster too.

·
Richierich

Yeah, it looks alright. However, it pisses me off that a watch company that doesn't manufacture their watch for the British military is using the broad-arrow sign. For clarity, I feel the same about the Omega NTTD Seamaster too.

Fair enough. It's a dead ringer for Dirty Dozen watches from Vertex and Baltany. Vertex gets to use the broad arrow, but Baltany? I would be willing to bet that this is actually the same white label watch Baltany sells, and so sports the broad arrow Baltany asked for. 🤷🏽

·
Reizer

Fair enough. It's a dead ringer for Dirty Dozen watches from Vertex and Baltany. Vertex gets to use the broad arrow, but Baltany? I would be willing to bet that this is actually the same white label watch Baltany sells, and so sports the broad arrow Baltany asked for. 🤷🏽

I agree its very similar to the Dirty Dozen style of watches.

The argument is the same as the "in house" label. Somewhere there are components manufactured elsewhere. But if you can't get the watch from a British military quartermaster, it shouldn't really have that sign. Otherwise steel and rubber manufacturers could have the Porsche label.

·

AR saphire crystal watch for 13$.

Seiko fans with mineral crystal on 500$ watch

Image
·

It looks nice,China is moving on watches but at the end the good microbrands ones will have the best to come in my opinion.

·
rbt1964

It looks nice,China is moving on watches but at the end the good microbrands ones will have the best to come in my opinion.

I think that will be true for a while. China is untouchable on raw bang for buck, but micro brands can leverage design chops, customer service, and integration of user feedback better than China can. Proximity, language barrier, and cultural intuition play a role and it will take China time to figure how to bridge that gap.

For example, I just bought a Vaer watch on sale for about $200 with roughly the same specs as this China special. But I also got a much more refined case, an engraved case back, signed crown, stronger lume, 2 quality straps with signed buckles, a nice ratcheting bezel, and a solar movement. And I can also contact their customer service with ease. I don't know if I'd say the Vaer is twice as good, but I feel like I got a good value for the extra $120 added to to the asking price. Micro brands who bring more to the table and can innovate in their design will do well. The ones just stamping their logo on a white label Chinese watch will have lots of 'splaining to do.

·
Richierich

I agree its very similar to the Dirty Dozen style of watches.

The argument is the same as the "in house" label. Somewhere there are components manufactured elsewhere. But if you can't get the watch from a British military quartermaster, it shouldn't really have that sign. Otherwise steel and rubber manufacturers could have the Porsche label.

I'm not arguing against, btw.

·

The image of products made in China is of cheap low quality garbage, and that does still exist. BUT they have proven that they can do hi quality output as well. Watch wise, everything from luxury swiss brands to micros to japanese brands to chinese brands are made there.

In regards to the swiss brands, they will have just enough actually done in Switzerland to qualify as swiss made. This has been ongoing for several years.

Right now is the time to get in on the chinese brands before they blow up and become not just watch enthusiast and YouTube famous but average joe famous.

Another way to look at it is take the Seiko Willard for example. Forgive me for not knowing the reference numbers here. But is costs as much as it does just because it says Seiko on the dial. Then you can get the same watch from San Martin, AddiesDive, Heimdallr, etc for less than 1/5 the price with better qc and Sapphire crystal.

I do wish that more of the chinese brands would start using miyota movements instead of Epson but that is just personal preference.

·
Reizer

Fair enough. It's a dead ringer for Dirty Dozen watches from Vertex and Baltany. Vertex gets to use the broad arrow, but Baltany? I would be willing to bet that this is actually the same white label watch Baltany sells, and so sports the broad arrow Baltany asked for. 🤷🏽

This is why I'm not a fan of microbrands, they are basically drop shippers, 99% are not watchmakers they just order from China, spending cases/dials/hands an movements

·
kbeightyseven

This is why I'm not a fan of microbrands, they are basically drop shippers, 99% are not watchmakers they just order from China, spending cases/dials/hands an movements

Facts. Also true of most of the manufactured products in the world.

·
Reizer

Facts. Also true of most of the manufactured products in the world.

100%, but that doesn't apply to actual watchmaking. For the same money you can. Uy from brands like citizen/seiko and its completely inhouse

·
kbeightyseven

100%, but that doesn't apply to actual watchmaking. For the same money you can. Uy from brands like citizen/seiko and its completely inhouse

I get your point of view. But I think it does apply to watchmaking. After all, Seiko produces a huge number of movements used by other brands. There are way more brands of anything than there are manufacturing points. So a lot of brands are using a common source.

Also, if you know of an in house Seiko watch that's under $100, I would love to know about it!

·
Reizer

I get your point of view. But I think it does apply to watchmaking. After all, Seiko produces a huge number of movements used by other brands. There are way more brands of anything than there are manufacturing points. So a lot of brands are using a common source.

Also, if you know of an in house Seiko watch that's under $100, I would love to know about it!

All seikos are in house, I'm not sure what your point is here, there's a difference between watchmaking and ordering random parts and putting them together

·
kbeightyseven

All seikos are in house, I'm not sure what your point is here, there's a difference between watchmaking and ordering random parts and putting them together

Yeah, I get that. I think maybe I'm not coming across. What I'm saying is that even though Seiko is a huge manufacturer of movements and has lower costs than those who use their movements, you still can't find a sub $100 Seiko.

·
Reizer

Facts. Also true of most of the manufactured products in the world.

Unfortunately.

·

I just bought a Militado chronograph for $95 delivered. It seems nice to my novice eyes and I like it a lot. I want to get another one before everyone else discovers these watches and the price goes up too high!

·
ZiggyS

I just bought a Militado chronograph for $95 delivered. It seems nice to my novice eyes and I like it a lot. I want to get another one before everyone else discovers these watches and the price goes up too high!

I know, they're really good, right? 😁

I have definitely paid twice as much money for half as much watch before.

I've seen which chrono you mean and it's a good looking watch, nice pickup! 👍🏽

·

Did something similar months back. Wondered what a straight out of China offering would be like. $55 got me a 36mm crudely brushed ss case in the nonsensical “Pilot/Diver” style, branded as Tandorio. (No, I don’t believe the 200m water resistance claim, but a short dip won’t hurt it.) Know what? I like it. Nothing but a solid cheap watch whose NH35 movement runs ~+5-7 sec/day.

Image
·

I bought a genuine "Record" W.W.W. Dirty Dozen watch at an ex-War Department auction in the 1970s - see left of picture. I paid about £10 for it. In similar condition they now fetch upwards of £1200, meaning it's now too valuable to be an everyday wearer. Anyway, I chanced on these Militado copies and thought I'd take a chance on one, since I really like the minimalist military look.

I paid £60 and waited a month for delivery from China. I wasn't at all disappointed when it eventually arrived. The finish is very good, it has a screw-down crown, a (half) AR coated sapphire crystal, the movement is a genuine TMI VD78A and it's accurate to 1 second per week. Unlike the Record "Dirty Dozen" original that gains several seconds/day and needs winding every 18 hours.

So, even at 60 quid I think the Militado copy is a bargain. Yes, it's quartz (hooray!) and wouldn't really pass as an original W.W.W. example, but I can wear it without worrying about damaging it.

FWIW the 'broad arrow' printed on the Militado isn't an exact copy of the WD symbol - the vertical line is too short. Does that, or the fact it's never seen military service worry/annoy me? Nope,

Image

not in the least!

·

Great grab!

·

Glad I located this post. Been looking for others with Militado examples. I bought one to put my field watch demons to rest and I am way, way more impressed with it than expected. Really seems to max the value equation. I have cheaper watches that feel cheaper. I have more expensive ones that don’t feel better than this.

Image
·
NotThatNeil

Glad I located this post. Been looking for others with Militado examples. I bought one to put my field watch demons to rest and I am way, way more impressed with it than expected. Really seems to max the value equation. I have cheaper watches that feel cheaper. I have more expensive ones that don’t feel better than this.

Image

Ah yeah, I saw they released an A11 style! It looks really good.

The value is just crazy. When I think about the fact that you can get a Timex Expedition (great watch) for around $40, and for an extra $30 ish you can get one of these... It just no contest. With the Expedition, you get $40 worth of watch. With the Militado, you get more like $200 worth of watch.

Based on my experience with the Militado, I bought my first Addiesdive this year, thier BB Pro homage. I can't believe how good it is for $100. It's easily a $300 watch.

There will definitely be more Chinese watches in my future.