Watches & Wonders 2024...Wonderful or WTF...here's my take...

Many have commented about being dissatisfied with what Watches & Wonders offered in 2024.

Whilst it's easy to become jaded having attended the event more than once...it helps to see it through new eyes.

So while I may have thought it was a bit of a yawn as far as nothing too spectacular being released this year...mostly more of the same...just in different colors or different metals...

I had the benefit of enjoying the event with some serious collectors who were attending for the first time.

Their enthusiasm was contagious. It made me feel again those same feelings when I first attended the show. The wonder of seeing so much in one place.

The sense of being overwhelmed...you mean within a few hundred paces I can be looking at timepieces from Ferdinand Berthoud, Gronefeld, Angelus, Ressence, Laurent Ferrier, Louis Moinet, Triolobe, and a number of others. And that's just the small section for independent watchmakers.

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And these guys (mostly guys anyway)...they have timepieces in their collections that would make your eyes pop out...and they were seriously chuffed at getting the opportunity to be at the show.

It's really nice to get to attend on the Tuesday (Monday is Press Day). It's not very crowded and you can still see some of your favorite YT personalities and others famous in our little corner of the world.

I had a chance to briefly chat with Nico while he was filming outside of Parmigiani...no selfies as I am very camera shy...but my wife grabbed this shot before I approached him...he is a pretty short and stout guy, but full of fun energy...

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I also had a chance to fanboy my favorite watch journalist, Wei Koh, he was sitting outside Montblanc and I stopped by to have a brief chat with him and let him know how much I appreciated his work...such a super cool dude.

Now my take on the show...

I'm not a Rolex fan, so really not interested in what the Big Booth had to offer...although I may ultimately add one Rolex to the collection...that new Rolex 1908 with the ice blue dial in platinum is really quite tempting...even if it is a knock-off of the Patek Calatrava...

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Cartier literally built a museum to display famous references from their history...

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...there so many more...I had to stop adding pictures...

And if that was not enough, there were some new incredible novelties released this year including this beauty...

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The folks at JLC were fantastic...I had a wonderful booth tour and had the opportunity to privately try on some amazing watches...the new Duometre either in rose gold or platinum is truly spectacular...unfortunately, so is the price...still trying to figure out how I can scape up enough after all my other purchases to get one...

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...let me know what you guys think...the rose gold and silver dial or the platinum and salmon dial...

If you are a fan of A. Lange Sohne...then you could gaze in appreciation at some amazing watches that you are unlikely to see anywhere else...

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I do love Vacheron...can't wait till my 222 is ready later this year...here is some eye candy from their booth... @Beanhead the first two pictures are a salute to you for owning this amazing VC...

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Grand Seiko's booth was a little disappointing this year...last year they blew me away with the platinum Masterpiece SBGZ009...but the booth itself looked beautiful...

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I initially screwed up the attending date (thought I was attending on Wednesday but it was actually Tuesday...Minerva manufacture tour was Wednesday...there will be a separate post for that one tomorrow or Sunday) and so couldn't get a reschedule of my appointment with LUC which was a bummer, but ultimately their loss...since I'll be picking up four pieces from Montblanc Minerva (who were my hosts) and likely a JLC...hey guys make sure to invite me next year if you are reading this...I do have quite a few of your watches...

Here are some LUCs and Chopards that my wife took pictures of while attending her appointment with Chopard's high jewelry group...

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Lastly, but certainly not least, my hosts for the event...Montblanc and their incredible Minerva line.

Of the Montblanc references, I'll limit myself to the new Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec chronograph...it was released in a limited edition of 500 for the 100th Anniversary of the Meisterstuck ("Masterpiece") writing instrument...it features an incredible lumed dial showing a blueprint of the writing instrument from 1920 including plans in its design, this time from the dimension table of the Montblanc emblem that can be found on the cap of every Meisterstück and on the crown of Montblanc timepieces...

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...this was one of my orders...and I also ordered the new Unveiled Secret Minerva chronograph...this is where Minerva has taken the movement and reversed it to the front of the watch and built a dial around it to accentuate the movement...not a skeleton watch which cuts away the dial to see the unseen components of the watch...this is literally a way to, do what we always wish and flip over your watch, and wear the movement on the face...I wish I could upload a video here as it is truly a remarkable timepiece...limited to 100 pieces...

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...the pièce de résistance of the Montblanc Minerva novelties was the new watch for members of Club 58...

Minerva has historically only produced manual mechanical movements...continuously since 1858...whether in higher complications like split-second chronographs or three-hand time only references...

They have done something wonderful this year...they took the famous 1948 Pythagore manual movement and converted it into an automatic movement...the first of its kind and the first automatic movement from Minerva...

The caseback shows the movement in all its glory and for all intents it looks like a manual movement...with a beautiful engraving of the Minerva manufacture on the German silver baseplate...

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...as you see there is no rotor on the back of the movement...when you turn it over...no obvious rotor on the dial side of the watch either...

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...however, a small turn of the platinum bezel...and voila the rotor is revealed hidden beneath the beautiful fume blue dial...

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...the rotor is engraved with the view of Montblanc mountain from Villeret (where Minerva is located) together with the Minerva brand name...a nuanced way to join the two brands together on the face of the watch.

There was so much more to relate...but I have gone on quite long here...thanks to those of you who have read it all and enjoyed it.

More to come this weekend when I write up a post on the visit to the Minerva manufacture...till then I bid you adieu...

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Thank you for the write up Mel. So many awesome watches you showed. Thank you for sharing! You are describing a world so different from my own. It sounds like you and your wife are having a fantastic time in Geneva. Enjoy!

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What a treat to be at W&W! I will try to go next year if my wife lets me 🤣. Thanks for sharing those pics. Ugh, I'd freak out if I saw my favorite YouTubers in real life, haha. Jk, but this is my dream. In a giant room full of fellow watch geeks.

Surprised my little VC is on display there, haha. There's some crazy watches on display.

That honeygold lumen perpetual calendar datograph is nuts. The blue datograph is calling my name, but I think I'll pass for a lumen zeitwerk or something the future. Too much bundling going on.

Congrats on the Minerva! I tired that on before, but in that unique gold alloy...with bronze or something? It makes it less dressy, but yours is nice. Steel?

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I watch and wonder if I will ever be able to afford anything on show 🤔

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Beanhead

What a treat to be at W&W! I will try to go next year if my wife lets me 🤣. Thanks for sharing those pics. Ugh, I'd freak out if I saw my favorite YouTubers in real life, haha. Jk, but this is my dream. In a giant room full of fellow watch geeks.

Surprised my little VC is on display there, haha. There's some crazy watches on display.

That honeygold lumen perpetual calendar datograph is nuts. The blue datograph is calling my name, but I think I'll pass for a lumen zeitwerk or something the future. Too much bundling going on.

Congrats on the Minerva! I tired that on before, but in that unique gold alloy...with bronze or something? It makes it less dressy, but yours is nice. Steel?

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Thanks - yes it is steel.

The major dial differences here from the prior references: no 12 at the top of the dial, clear subdials, and Minvera in blued steel right up front not hidden below.

It also has been raised up and open sapphire windows placed in the sides. So you can see the movement better because it allows more light to enter. You can also see a more 3-dimensional effect because it is raised up (slightly thicker than previous references). There is also a gorgeous blue baseplate that just provides the finishing touch of elegance.

I had passed on previous references as there was always something a bit off about them. This one is stunning and if you saw it in the metal, my guess is your wallet would be jumping out of your pocket.

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GoQuartzYourself

I watch and wonder if I will ever be able to afford anything on show 🤔

Obviously, I'm showing photos of the watches that stun.

Frederique Constant/Alpina had a wonderful booth with loads of great looking, well made, and affordable watches. I just didn't take any pictures in there as it was way too crowded and that made it a bit unpleasant to navigate the large booth.

The TAG Heuer booth was really great as well. I didn't show any of those photos, but they really had a nice layout. They had everything in there from the most affordable to the ridiculously expensive.

I skipped the Tudor booth this year. They were a bit dickish last year, so I passed on even going over there this year.

I also didn't take any photos of the Patek booth as most of their watches just bore me to tears...there are a few that I lust after, but a very few.

If you happen to be in Switzerland or nearby when the show is running it is worth going on the days its open to the public just to enjoy seeing so many unattainable watches in one place.

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YourIntruder

Thank you for the write up Mel. So many awesome watches you showed. Thank you for sharing! You are describing a world so different from my own. It sounds like you and your wife are having a fantastic time in Geneva. Enjoy!

Thanks Per - it was a true blessing to get to be there.

It makes all the many long hours toiling in the salt mines worth it.

Most of the people there were just wonderful, and the staff at our hotel were courteous and helpful.

Unfortunately, I wish I could have stayed longer...but the salt mines were calling me back home.

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ChronoGuy

Thanks - yes it is steel.

The major dial differences here from the prior references: no 12 at the top of the dial, clear subdials, and Minvera in blued steel right up front not hidden below.

It also has been raised up and open sapphire windows placed in the sides. So you can see the movement better because it allows more light to enter. You can also see a more 3-dimensional effect because it is raised up (slightly thicker than previous references). There is also a gorgeous blue baseplate that just provides the finishing touch of elegance.

I had passed on previous references as there was always something a bit off about them. This one is stunning and if you saw it in the metal, my guess is your wallet would be jumping out of your pocket.

How much is the steel version? Their website never has any good information and have no idea where to even enquire about a Minerva. I like the changes in your pic, the fact that it's steel, and the blue intermediate y-shaped bridge.

Where did you secure the watch? A boutique?

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Cartier and JLC won the day for me, I absolutely love the new Cartier monopusher and the JLC duometre is likely my “one and done”

Great write up! 👌🏻

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ChronoGuy

Obviously, I'm showing photos of the watches that stun.

Frederique Constant/Alpina had a wonderful booth with loads of great looking, well made, and affordable watches. I just didn't take any pictures in there as it was way too crowded and that made it a bit unpleasant to navigate the large booth.

The TAG Heuer booth was really great as well. I didn't show any of those photos, but they really had a nice layout. They had everything in there from the most affordable to the ridiculously expensive.

I skipped the Tudor booth this year. They were a bit dickish last year, so I passed on even going over there this year.

I also didn't take any photos of the Patek booth as most of their watches just bore me to tears...there are a few that I lust after, but a very few.

If you happen to be in Switzerland or nearby when the show is running it is worth going on the days its open to the public just to enjoy seeing so many unattainable watches in one place.

Thanks for sharing..👍👍👍👍

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Perversely it's been nice to see Rolex turn up with nothing but gold bullion and a Homage. It's given the spotlight to others. I'm looking forward to the IWC enteral calendar. I hear the waiting list is only slightly longer than 45 million years.....

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You saved me from airfare, lodging and a yelling match with Nico.

Great write-up!

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Beanhead

How much is the steel version? Their website never has any good information and have no idea where to even enquire about a Minerva. I like the changes in your pic, the fact that it's steel, and the blue intermediate y-shaped bridge.

Where did you secure the watch? A boutique?

The price is $45k.

As a Club 58 member, I get the opportunity to request an allocation before the watch is made available for general sale to the public.

My guess is about half of the 100 were likely allocated the first day of the show.

Not sure how the remainder will be allocated across the globe.

If you have a serious interest, DM me and I can put you in touch with someone.

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Takeyourtime

Cartier and JLC won the day for me, I absolutely love the new Cartier monopusher and the JLC duometre is likely my “one and done”

Great write up! 👌🏻

Thanks! I agree with you - Richemont really nailed it this year.

I love the Cartier, JLC and Montblanc novelties and I even like a couple of the IWC references that were released. There's also the Piaget Polo '79 that is a gorgeous watch...just a bit too expensive at $74k.

And I too am entranced by the Duometre - I didn't want to take it off my wrist. The problem is the salmon dial in platinum is $86k...quite the expensive watch.

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ChronoGuy

The price is $45k.

As a Club 58 member, I get the opportunity to request an allocation before the watch is made available for general sale to the public.

My guess is about half of the 100 were likely allocated the first day of the show.

Not sure how the remainder will be allocated across the globe.

If you have a serious interest, DM me and I can put you in touch with someone.

Thanks for the offer and Intel. It seems the case size is the same as the lime gold one, ie 43mm and with long lugs it was a bit too long for me unfortunately. It's beautiful, dang. I'm on the hunt for a not too monstrously sized rattrapante right now, though a monopusher is always welcome.

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ChronoGuy

The price is $45k.

As a Club 58 member, I get the opportunity to request an allocation before the watch is made available for general sale to the public.

My guess is about half of the 100 were likely allocated the first day of the show.

Not sure how the remainder will be allocated across the globe.

If you have a serious interest, DM me and I can put you in touch with someone.

You are chronoguy, so I should check. Do you have a PF Chronor Anniversaire Rattrapante?

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Thank you for sharing 🙏 From what I could tell from YouTube, there were only about 6 watches in the whole building this year!

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Porthole

Thanks for this - to be honest, this was the write up I was anticipating the most when you said you were attending. A lot of people forget the word “Wonder” in the event title, and thus everyone is bringing their A game. A lot of game on show - Minerva for sure. That VC is superb, and Cartier playing to their strengths. I am fond of that blue 1908, that’s a good spot. I like that white Angelus too, it’s right up my street.

I’m going to address the elephant in the room, did you see Bremont and what was your take?

Thanks Chris! Always appreciate the kind words.

Unfortunately, Bremont was stuck in the back corner like a naughty schoolboy.

You would not have found them unless you were looking for them. They were located by themselves on the second floor by some of the exits and near the free magazines.

I'm not much a fan of Bremont. Nothing against them just not really excited about their references. I totally understand those who are passionate about them though.

So I didn't get to their booth, though I did load up on the free magazines from all over the watch world. And the specialist book dealer there kindly held my canvas bag full of magazines for me until the end of the show (it must have weighed 30 pounds)...so huzzah to the book dealer a true gentleman.

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zz.jlc

Nice review! I feel like was there myself 👏

I think a salmon dial on Duometre was a mistake for such an expensive watch. It should be more classic and look decent even after decades. Salmon fashion might be gone in few years.

Thanks for the kind words.

I know salmon has had a resurgence recently, but remember so many of the classic chronograph watches from the 1940s/1950s had salmon dials.

For me, if you release a vintage style chronograph you really need to have a salmon dial in the mix.

So while I understand your perspective, I do think salmon will survive the test of time as it has for so many years already.

But could you imagine that Duometre in a blue dial with platinum...that would be pretty awesome indeed.

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Very cool summary of what you saw at W&W and congrats on the beautiful watches you‘re getting. That JLC in rose gold with silver dial is also stunning and would be my personal favourite.

This is not really the price bracket I‘m shopping in and I think the same is true for many others here as well. I think most people focus on releases from the most popular mainstream brands and then complain if nothing exciting (to them) comes along. Anyway thanks for showing another side that is not readily covered by most watch influencers

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doc.pls

Very cool summary of what you saw at W&W and congrats on the beautiful watches you‘re getting. That JLC in rose gold with silver dial is also stunning and would be my personal favourite.

This is not really the price bracket I‘m shopping in and I think the same is true for many others here as well. I think most people focus on releases from the most popular mainstream brands and then complain if nothing exciting (to them) comes along. Anyway thanks for showing another side that is not readily covered by most watch influencers

Thanks for the kind words. Glad you found it of interest.

It was a fun event and always exciting to be surrounded by watches and with friends who are as demented about watches as all of us here.

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ChronoGuy

Thanks for the kind words.

I know salmon has had a resurgence recently, but remember so many of the classic chronograph watches from the 1940s/1950s had salmon dials.

For me, if you release a vintage style chronograph you really need to have a salmon dial in the mix.

So while I understand your perspective, I do think salmon will survive the test of time as it has for so many years already.

But could you imagine that Duometre in a blue dial with platinum...that would be pretty awesome indeed.

Yes indeed, there is nothing new about salmon dials. But personally for me it is quite a niche solution. The target group is collectors who are rich, have many watches (all possible colours dials) and you try to please them and to force buying something from you. Then I would go for limited series with salmon dials. JLC already did it with Reverso for example (250 pieces).

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Classical watch for me is with a white, black or blue dial (I like the latter as a colour the most generally in my life). So, for the company those colours could be a safe heaven to produce. But as I said before, I think they targeted a specific group of potential buyers. All good, just make it as a limited offer for collectors as salmon fashion comes and goes. And for the rest (the price reminder!! 😆) give a blue dial with platinum.

There is an interesting article about salmon dials:

https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/how-salmon-dial-came-to-be

However, I think JLC this year did well with a blue DUOMETRE QUANTIEME LUNAIRE. The colour is super cool, I would say it reminds vintage style jeans.

On the other hand, my opinion means nothing. I am sure JLC made market reseaches and informed decisions afterwards what to issue or not.

Let's go fishing then 😀

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Wow! Now I want to go so bad next year!

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zz.jlc

Yes indeed, there is nothing new about salmon dials. But personally for me it is quite a niche solution. The target group is collectors who are rich, have many watches (all possible colours dials) and you try to please them and to force buying something from you. Then I would go for limited series with salmon dials. JLC already did it with Reverso for example (250 pieces).

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Classical watch for me is with a white, black or blue dial (I like the latter as a colour the most generally in my life). So, for the company those colours could be a safe heaven to produce. But as I said before, I think they targeted a specific group of potential buyers. All good, just make it as a limited offer for collectors as salmon fashion comes and goes. And for the rest (the price reminder!! 😆) give a blue dial with platinum.

There is an interesting article about salmon dials:

https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/how-salmon-dial-came-to-be

However, I think JLC this year did well with a blue DUOMETRE QUANTIEME LUNAIRE. The colour is super cool, I would say it reminds vintage style jeans.

On the other hand, my opinion means nothing. I am sure JLC made market reseaches and informed decisions afterwards what to issue or not.

Let's go fishing then 😀

Thanks ZZ - great points and really appreciate the article on salmon dials.

Cheers! 🍻

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Great write up and I’m green with envy.

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post ban re post!

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Amazing write up Mel!

so lucky you were able to attend.

I’d have been one of the glossy eyed enthusiasts to bring your spirits higher I think 😳🤩🤯😮

Love the subtle tail !

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oh, and this is the better colorway of the two - no question

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Also - I loved the new 9SA4, did you get a chance to feel it’s supposed heavenly wind?

When a heritage line or thin dress case with 9sA4 gets the new color changing dial - GS will be getting my money 💸. 15cm runner wrist and Tokyo Lion case do not mix!!

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Fieldwalker

post ban re post!

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Amazing write up Mel!

so lucky you were able to attend.

I’d have been one of the glossy eyed enthusiasts to bring your spirits higher I think 😳🤩🤯😮

Love the subtle tail !

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oh, and this is the better colorway of the two - no question

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Also - I loved the new 9SA4, did you get a chance to feel it’s supposed heavenly wind?

When a heritage line or thin dress case with 9sA4 gets the new color changing dial - GS will be getting my money 💸. 15cm runner wrist and Tokyo Lion case do not mix!!

Thanks Alan!

I didn't spend much time in the GS booth. I was eager to get around to everything, so I cut it short in some spaces.

By the end of the day, all you want to do is find a comfortable place to sit and rest your aching feet.

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Wow what a tour you have given us! I feel like I was there after reading your post! Thank you very much Mel and congratulations for your new acquisitions 👌👏

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watchguard77

Wow what a tour you have given us! I feel like I was there after reading your post! Thank you very much Mel and congratulations for your new acquisitions 👌👏

Thanks Kostas! Glad you enjoyed it. More to come on the visit at Minerva...finally got the photos off my wife's phone. Look for another post this weekend.

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ChronoGuy

Thanks Kostas! Glad you enjoyed it. More to come on the visit at Minerva...finally got the photos off my wife's phone. Look for another post this weekend.

I will be looking forward to reading your next post then 🤩

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Congrats on the write up / thoughts / photos. 👏 good on you for speaking to Nico. He’s loud but I enjoy his videos.