New Navitimer GMT: did Breitling drop the ball?
https://www.instagram.com/p/C5BgIcorYgw/?igsh=MWdndXc3M3B2a2RmYQ==
Apparently this was a fresh release from Breitling, and from what I read from Gear Patrol the watch uses a caller GMT than a traveller's GMT. Now I know that there are pros and cons to both types of movements but for a watch that has it's roots in aviation and navigation, having a caller GMT feels like a cop out to me. It's even more of a shame because it looks fantastic IMO.
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It’s all about the look!
It’s all about the look!
Ditto, and there’s one watch maker that makes a busy beautiful brilliant dial………..that’s Breitling 💙
Caller GMT huh? Yeah, they blew it. Especially for what Brietling run.
I think a caller GMT is fine if the watch is part of one's rotation rather than a true travel watch. When I was flying willy-nilly at my boss's least provocation several years ago, a jumping hour hand would have been a life saver. Unfortunately, I was unaware of the traveller's GMT. (Ironically, the Greenwich (London) timezone was a common destination.)
And again only 3bar WR :(
Meh
Breitling can’t do anything right
IMO unless you really are someone who moves between multiple time zones frequently it really makes minimal difference if you get a caller or traveller gmt. If you are going on a holiday somewhere and staying for a week, just reset your watch and use the gmt hand to monitor home time. It only matters if you are changing time zones frequently (ie several time zones in 48hrs) as it makes it easier to adjust the local time due to the jumping hour. How many of us travel like that ? Not
Many I suspect
It looks amazing and definitely well built. The hang up on Traveler vs Caller GMT perplexes me. Just different approaches to the same complication.🤷
I've been blessed with good eyesight, but even I would need a magnifying glass to comprehend what's on that dial.
This is a mess.
I think a caller GMT is fine if the watch is part of one's rotation rather than a true travel watch. When I was flying willy-nilly at my boss's least provocation several years ago, a jumping hour hand would have been a life saver. Unfortunately, I was unaware of the traveller's GMT. (Ironically, the Greenwich (London) timezone was a common destination.)
Especially when a traveller GMT lacks a quick set date function and you have it in your rotation and have to advance the hour hand 10 days as you put in on.
This is the Navitimer for people who thought the regular version dial was too clean?
It looks amazing and definitely well built. The hang up on Traveler vs Caller GMT perplexes me. Just different approaches to the same complication.🤷
Co-signed 100% Yes, a flyer is convenient in the sense that it saves you maybe 60 seconds when adjusting to a new time zone (and let's be honest: most of the time, the average trip will cross one, maybe two time zones at the most. I used to travel extensively for my work, and you were rarely taking multiple flights/day, and almost never would you cross more than one time zone even in those trips).
The issue is, a flyer also costs you 60 seconds any and every time you pick one up that you haven't worn in a few days and have to advance the date via the hour hand instead of the caller's quick-set date. It's all just a trade-off, neither is "superior," just better for certain purposes.
Fwiw, a 12 or 24 hour bezel on a simple 3 hander (like my Serica diver) is superior to either set up and takes *seconds* to adjust and to read. GMT hands look cool and they're my favorite complication, but sometimes the simple solution is the best solution.
Does it really, really....really make that much of a difference?
I love Breitlings but the latest launch is another miss for me personally.
Co-signed 100% Yes, a flyer is convenient in the sense that it saves you maybe 60 seconds when adjusting to a new time zone (and let's be honest: most of the time, the average trip will cross one, maybe two time zones at the most. I used to travel extensively for my work, and you were rarely taking multiple flights/day, and almost never would you cross more than one time zone even in those trips).
The issue is, a flyer also costs you 60 seconds any and every time you pick one up that you haven't worn in a few days and have to advance the date via the hour hand instead of the caller's quick-set date. It's all just a trade-off, neither is "superior," just better for certain purposes.
Fwiw, a 12 or 24 hour bezel on a simple 3 hander (like my Serica diver) is superior to either set up and takes *seconds* to adjust and to read. GMT hands look cool and they're my favorite complication, but sometimes the simple solution is the best solution.
I hear you, and completely get where you're coming from. I personally don't mind caller GMTs and really like a12hr rotating bezel too because it's more sensible. However, the part of the hobby that really appeals to me is the complications and the history behind wristwatches. That's why this watch is rather disappointing because a caller GMT doesn't sit well with the whole Navitimer branding and the pilot's watch story Breitling always push.
I hear you, and completely get where you're coming from. I personally don't mind caller GMTs and really like a12hr rotating bezel too because it's more sensible. However, the part of the hobby that really appeals to me is the complications and the history behind wristwatches. That's why this watch is rather disappointing because a caller GMT doesn't sit well with the whole Navitimer branding and the pilot's watch story Breitling always push.
Also a very good point. I think that Breitling is still existing in a bit of a "no-man's-land" - lots of heritage, I would argue generally very nice designs, but also with Hublot-like mark-ups which is going to frustrate many. I have no issue with off-the-shelf movements and such, but I think that in today's market, charging over $6k USD with an ETA movement - flyer or caller - is outrageous.
Navitimer GMT (B04) owner here!
Changing the date on a traveler GMT movement is so annoying- it keeps me from incorporating this into my rotation.
If you are on this site— you, too— own/wear more than one watch. If you see a traveler GMT watch in the box and decide to wear it, look at the calendar realize it's been 14 or 15 days since the movement stopped... Lord have mercy.
As mentioned above— unless you are truly doing a lot of frequent transocean travel— there's no reason for the attitude that traveler GMTs are somehow superior.
If it’s really a caller GMT.. wow I’m surprised and disappointed.
As a Breitling fan, travel watch collector and general watch industry geek I think this watch some what happens when vision collides with reality.
in reality caller vs traveller is a wash, both have upsides and downsides, I own a bunch of each and both styles are fine.
that said, a caller doesnt fit the story of the navitimer (which is also a chrono only in the past) being a pilots/travel watch.
but (and this is the reality bit) what movement would they use for a traveller? The miyota is obviously out cos then we arent swiss, the Kenissi is way too fat and would turn the watch into a chonker (for this style). Im not aware of an alternative for them.
So then you get to the point what compromise feels least worst.
As for pricing - looking across the catalog breitling charges essentially the same money for a Sellita or Kenissi based movement so my guess, those movements cost within a 100 bucks of each other. I also note that the movement is definately not the most expensive part of a watch - I know of a couple of watches where the movement (a really nicely finished swiss manual winder) cost less than the hands. I think focussing on movement costs is a misreading of whats hard in watchmaking.
As a Breitling fan, travel watch collector and general watch industry geek I think this watch some what happens when vision collides with reality.
in reality caller vs traveller is a wash, both have upsides and downsides, I own a bunch of each and both styles are fine.
that said, a caller doesnt fit the story of the navitimer (which is also a chrono only in the past) being a pilots/travel watch.
but (and this is the reality bit) what movement would they use for a traveller? The miyota is obviously out cos then we arent swiss, the Kenissi is way too fat and would turn the watch into a chonker (for this style). Im not aware of an alternative for them.
So then you get to the point what compromise feels least worst.
As for pricing - looking across the catalog breitling charges essentially the same money for a Sellita or Kenissi based movement so my guess, those movements cost within a 100 bucks of each other. I also note that the movement is definately not the most expensive part of a watch - I know of a couple of watches where the movement (a really nicely finished swiss manual winder) cost less than the hands. I think focussing on movement costs is a misreading of whats hard in watchmaking.
Excellent point on the alternative movements
Navitimer GMT (B04) owner here!
Changing the date on a traveler GMT movement is so annoying- it keeps me from incorporating this into my rotation.
If you are on this site— you, too— own/wear more than one watch. If you see a traveler GMT watch in the box and decide to wear it, look at the calendar realize it's been 14 or 15 days since the movement stopped... Lord have mercy.
As mentioned above— unless you are truly doing a lot of frequent transocean travel— there's no reason for the attitude that traveler GMTs are somehow superior.
Great watch and that's a good looking golden retriever you have there too! I am aware of the downsides of a traveller's GMT, and by no means I think that it is superior than a caller's. It's just the whole aesthetic and story thing that doesn't fit right with me. It kinda feels like Omega releasing this new Seamaster Professional that looks great, but it only has 50m water resistance and no screw down crown. I'll never wear it for diving for sure, but it's just not a Seamaster Professional anymore.
I kinda get the idea that if they're pushing so hard on the aviation marketing angle (which...ugh) a traveler's GMT feels more in line with that narrative, but as it is just a marketing narrative it wouldn't make or break my decision to buy or not, especially since I find "callers" to be much more desirable for all of the reasons folks have mentioned above, though the best watch for frequent travelers are undeniably the Astron dual-time GPS pieces, which antiquate this whole "jumping hour" vs "jumping GMT" debate ;)
I doubt the average buyer even knows the difference. I don't particularly like this one, so I don't care. I love the blue dial Navi.
I have the one with the gold hands. Was so-so about it until I replaced the band with black alligator leather. Now I love it.