Review of my Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moonphase
I suspect like many of you, I tend to get somewhat obsessive about my interests. Since really getting into watches and watch content in 2019, I have spent countless hours researching and debating the purchase and sale of my watches. Which brands and features do I connect with most? Which pieces fit best within my existing collection? How much am I willing to spend?
Around nine months ago, after going strong for about three years, I finally felt the urge starting to subside. While there's certainly a lot to love about this hobby and sharing my interests with others online is near the top, I am feeling the urge to step away somewhat. But of course, this feeling also arose in advance of my big 40th birthday. So like any sane watch enthusiast, I naturally had to make one last swan-song purchase and ride off into the sunset. So a few months ago, I finally narrowed it down to two pieces: the JLC Master Ultra Thin Moonphase in silver or the Cartier Santos Medium in white.
While I thought I was leaning towards the Santos, I finally was able to hold both pieces in my hands for a comparison. Here is a lesson for all. Never buy a watch based only on online research and when cross-shopping, make sure to hold both pieces side by side. In comparing and trying on both back and forth, the decision suddenly become laughably obvious: the JLC. What can I say? It really is just on another level of refinement. While both pieces fit my preference for classic, dressy watches, the JLC just feels much more classy and understated. Also, the movement of the JLC is clearly much stronger.
Within a few hours of this head-to-head, I had made an offer on this pre-owned piece from 2016.
Now the review. On my 17cm wrist, the 39mm case with its 9mm thickness, wears like a dream. While the case is fully polished, it has many interesting facets and bevels which keeps the watch very interesting. Another big reason why I chose it over the Santos is the dial, which is beautifully textured with its silver sunburst. Most elegantly, the dial also features stunning depth with multiple layers. First, you have the applied polished indices and logo. Next, the sunken sub-dial features another three elements delving further into the dial: an outer date ring, a guillocheted moonphase "breast" and finally the moonphase disk itself in navy blue with polished applied stars and moon. Apologies to any Santos owners out there, but once your eyes take all of this in, the printed-on-a-white-sheet-of-paper dial of the Santos just doesn't even compare.
Finally, it goes without saying that the JLC movement is extremely solid and performs exactly how one would expect. I don't have a timographer, but I would estimate the daily deviation to fall within chronometer spec. The only quibble I have with this piece is that I missed the new movement, with the longer power reserve and skeletonized gold "JL" logo rotor by one year, which is unfortunate, but certainly not a deal breaker. The price I paid, which was excellent, reflects that, I suppose. With the recent price increases, I came away with a fantastic watch at a bargain.
In conclusion, I'm truly thrilled with this piece and have confidently moved it to the "will never sell" side of my watch box. JLC is a brand that really speaks to me. It's history, credibility, design language and general style sets it above most other brands and make JLC criminally under-appreciated by most. But that's fine, I'll just keep enjoying the deep discounts on the secondary market while I can.
Review of my Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moonphase
Yes
No
- Gorgeous textured, layered dial
- Perfect width and height
- Storied movement producer
- Stunning case design
- If I must... the box is cheap.
Happy to provide decisive advice about your collection while being paralyzed in deliberation about mine. "The moral sense in mortals is the duty. We have to pay on mortal sense of beauty." Vladimir Na...
One of the most dressy and cleanest watch on the market right now. Beautiful, congratulations on that awesome piece !
Thank you for the review. I did not know this watch and it now has all my attention! 🙏🏻
I own one and love it, but I don’t know about a 5 out of 5. In the newer version, the rotar is loud and at times the watch feels too fragile. The min hand jumps while setting the time.
I own one and love it, but I don’t know about a 5 out of 5. In the newer version, the rotar is loud and at times the watch feels too fragile. The min hand jumps while setting the time.
Heresy! Are you really suggesting you would give JLC, the watchmaker's watchmaker, a 4/5 for movement? Unthinkable!! (but yeah the minute hand does jump a tad).
Heresy! Are you really suggesting you would give JLC, the watchmaker's watchmaker, a 4/5 for movement? Unthinkable!! (but yeah the minute hand does jump a tad).
Basing this off a 5 star rating (using only whole numbers) I’d probably give it the following.
Wearability: 4
Design: 4
Quality: 3
Dial: 3
Movement: 3
Total Score: 3.4
To me, this is a great score. In my opinion, giving it a 5/5 suggests there is no room for improvement.
Wouldn’t you like that min hand doesnt jump when setting the time? Which by the way, after setting the time, slowly rotate the crown in the opposite direction, then close the crown. This will prevent the min hand from jumping.
The deployant buckle - wouldn’t it be nice to remove the watch without having to pull on the leather strap to pull up on the deployant, which currently puts more stress on the leather strap? My hack around this is sliding finger under the back end of the buckle, pressing it away from the strap. This causes no wear or stress to the leather.
Have you noticed there is sometimes a phantom position when pulling the crown? Could have been used to set either the date or moon complication.
Like you, I can obsess over things and these are a couple things that I’ve noticed that can be improved. But it doesn’t take away from me enjoying the watch, but they are things that can be improved on in my opinion.
But that’s what great about this hobby, we’re all going to have differing opinions.
Cheers!
Basing this off a 5 star rating (using only whole numbers) I’d probably give it the following.
Wearability: 4
Design: 4
Quality: 3
Dial: 3
Movement: 3
Total Score: 3.4
To me, this is a great score. In my opinion, giving it a 5/5 suggests there is no room for improvement.
Wouldn’t you like that min hand doesnt jump when setting the time? Which by the way, after setting the time, slowly rotate the crown in the opposite direction, then close the crown. This will prevent the min hand from jumping.
The deployant buckle - wouldn’t it be nice to remove the watch without having to pull on the leather strap to pull up on the deployant, which currently puts more stress on the leather strap? My hack around this is sliding finger under the back end of the buckle, pressing it away from the strap. This causes no wear or stress to the leather.
Have you noticed there is sometimes a phantom position when pulling the crown? Could have been used to set either the date or moon complication.
Like you, I can obsess over things and these are a couple things that I’ve noticed that can be improved. But it doesn’t take away from me enjoying the watch, but they are things that can be improved on in my opinion.
But that’s what great about this hobby, we’re all going to have differing opinions.
Cheers!
You are tough to please - you'd fit in great in Germany 🙂
JK, valid points for sure. The requirement to use whole numbers makes precise ranking tough.
Cheers!
Love this watch! I went back and forth between this and the reverso for a long time while looking at dress watches. I ultimately went with the Reverso and, while I’m really happy with my choice, I haven’t been able to get the the Master Ultra Thin out of my mind since. I’m sure, at some point, I’ll be adding one of these to my collection. Enjoy that beautiful watch!
Love this watch! I went back and forth between this and the reverso for a long time while looking at dress watches. I ultimately went with the Reverso and, while I’m really happy with my choice, I haven’t been able to get the the Master Ultra Thin out of my mind since. I’m sure, at some point, I’ll be adding one of these to my collection. Enjoy that beautiful watch!
I’ve been there. Got a Reverso, then the ultra thin. Now I’m thinking of a gold Reverso but that won’t be till late 2024.
Love this watch! I went back and forth between this and the reverso for a long time while looking at dress watches. I ultimately went with the Reverso and, while I’m really happy with my choice, I haven’t been able to get the the Master Ultra Thin out of my mind since. I’m sure, at some point, I’ll be adding one of these to my collection. Enjoy that beautiful watch!
Similar to DH_NYC, I got the Reverso and then found my way to the MUT Moon. I've now declared myself a certified JLC fan boy. In my mind, very little compares at the same price point.
The perpetual is sublime, but I don't plan on dropping that much on a piece. That said, go pre-owned for JLC in general and you get great value.
Basing this off a 5 star rating (using only whole numbers) I’d probably give it the following.
Wearability: 4
Design: 4
Quality: 3
Dial: 3
Movement: 3
Total Score: 3.4
To me, this is a great score. In my opinion, giving it a 5/5 suggests there is no room for improvement.
Wouldn’t you like that min hand doesnt jump when setting the time? Which by the way, after setting the time, slowly rotate the crown in the opposite direction, then close the crown. This will prevent the min hand from jumping.
The deployant buckle - wouldn’t it be nice to remove the watch without having to pull on the leather strap to pull up on the deployant, which currently puts more stress on the leather strap? My hack around this is sliding finger under the back end of the buckle, pressing it away from the strap. This causes no wear or stress to the leather.
Have you noticed there is sometimes a phantom position when pulling the crown? Could have been used to set either the date or moon complication.
Like you, I can obsess over things and these are a couple things that I’ve noticed that can be improved. But it doesn’t take away from me enjoying the watch, but they are things that can be improved on in my opinion.
But that’s what great about this hobby, we’re all going to have differing opinions.
Cheers!
Yeah… don’t go there. Objectivity and bias are not part of this exercise. Woe betide anyone who loves an imperfect watch.
Wait... whats wrong with the box?
I Liked the box my jlc came in...
Amazing watch!
There was a Jaeger-LeCoultre (Master Control) I had almost immediately eliminated from my selection when digging up the web for an office/dressy watch (too meh).
The seller insisted to show me this very piece.
I walked away with it.
Wait... whats wrong with the box?
I Liked the box my jlc came in...
Amazing watch!
Omega boxes are miles ahead.
This exact watch is still on my wish list but the retail price went up year after year! I feel like I’ll have to do the same and find a good deal on on a used piece. Congratulations!
Similar to DH_NYC, I got the Reverso and then found my way to the MUT Moon. I've now declared myself a certified JLC fan boy. In my mind, very little compares at the same price point.
I consider myself a certified fanboy too 😂😂
Yeah… don’t go there. Objectivity and bias are not part of this exercise. Woe betide anyone who loves an imperfect watch.
Go where? Two owners discussing their viewpoints on a watch?
The perpetual is sublime, but I don't plan on dropping that much on a piece. That said, go pre-owned for JLC in general and you get great value.
The perpetual is to die for! 😍😍 It’s the reason I first walked into a JLC store. Simarily, I can’t see myself ever dropping that amount on a watch.
Basing this off a 5 star rating (using only whole numbers) I’d probably give it the following.
Wearability: 4
Design: 4
Quality: 3
Dial: 3
Movement: 3
Total Score: 3.4
To me, this is a great score. In my opinion, giving it a 5/5 suggests there is no room for improvement.
Wouldn’t you like that min hand doesnt jump when setting the time? Which by the way, after setting the time, slowly rotate the crown in the opposite direction, then close the crown. This will prevent the min hand from jumping.
The deployant buckle - wouldn’t it be nice to remove the watch without having to pull on the leather strap to pull up on the deployant, which currently puts more stress on the leather strap? My hack around this is sliding finger under the back end of the buckle, pressing it away from the strap. This causes no wear or stress to the leather.
Have you noticed there is sometimes a phantom position when pulling the crown? Could have been used to set either the date or moon complication.
Like you, I can obsess over things and these are a couple things that I’ve noticed that can be improved. But it doesn’t take away from me enjoying the watch, but they are things that can be improved on in my opinion.
But that’s what great about this hobby, we’re all going to have differing opinions.
Cheers!
I love your feed back on this review, very helpful for those about to take the plunge.
I’m always eyeing one and for some reason I have a soft spot for JLC maybe it’s the simplicity of the design.
👍
Congrats it’s beautiful.
I have my eye on both of your choices, not sure they can be compared as for me they are different type of dress watches.
You wear it well! 👌
Perfection. All I can say. One of the most spectacular watches ever. Seriously.
Nice one - and I heard JLC have upgraded their watchboxes now.
I consider myself a certified fanboy too 😂😂
No self-respecting JLC fanboy would rate the MUT Moon at 3.4! 🤣
You know, while I agree with this in principle, and I can definitely see the value when you are between 2 pieces, my experience has been different.
My last 3 watch purchases (Bernhardt, Citizen A-T, and Horage) were all based on online researching. The Horage didn't even have that good reviews, it's pure spec based gamble. And all three of them greatly exceeded my expectations. Plus, I got them during deeply discounted period or favourable exchange rate, so the deals were good.
The previous watch (Seiko enamel) did happen in store, but by the time I stepped in the store, I was pretty sure I wanted it. Most research was also online.
So... Trust the internet?
Great review and beautiful watch. JLC is definitely on my short list. Just wanted to make a brief reply to this part of your review:
This is good advice when it can be done, but as I'm sure you know, this is not always possible or reasonable. In your example where the watches are currently in production, or at least there are some left over stock to see at an AD or Boutique, that is great, if you are in a reasonable distance from one of those locations. Not everyone is in a position to do that. Also some watch combinations, just can't be held side by side without purchasing them. For example.. I'd love to compare a Zenith Captain Power Reserve 03.2120.685/02.C498 side by side with a Frederique Constant Slimline Monolithic, neither of which are in production, and the likely hood of finding both of these in the same place to compare, is highly unlikely. And I think of a lot of grail type watch comparisons, that will most likely be the case. Just my 2 cents. Thanks.
I have one of these which has a very similar footprint, it's a bit much for a daily but won't be going anywhere as it's quite scarce
Thank you for sharing 👍
I love mine also!!!! Agree with you 💯😍🌘
Is the rotor loud?