Frustrated by servicing options for my vintage Rolex GMT
So I wanted to service my vintage Rolex GMT 16753 with the hopes of a) providing routine maintenance to the movement; b) swapping out the sapphire crystal for the correct plexiglas one; and c) certifying the original 10 bar water resistance.
I took it to the Rolex AD and the watchmaker took a quick look. He thought I should definitely get it serviced but also that they would need to replace the crown with a new one to ensure water resistance. He says the entire service would cost roughly 1700 EUR!
Despite the high cost, I finally agree and they shipped it off to the service center in Munich. A few weeks later I get the call that Rolex needs to also replace the hands since they contain tritium and may be radioactive. This will now cost 1990 EUR he says.
I explain that I do not want this and he insists that he MUST replace them and dispose of them according to some radioactive material protocol (so German). I again explain that I am prepared to accept the risk and wish to keep my original parts. He says he cannot, so I finally cancel the entire service and he quickly complies.
Next, I tried Chronext's service center. They quote me roughly 500 EUR, so I ship it to them. After a few weeks, I get an email saying they cannot certify vintage watches to any water resistance level (not even 3 bar). I decide to also cancel this service since certifying the water resistance was my primary motivation.
So now I'm left with my original piece, untouched, but without any water resistance. I suppose at this point, I just wear it until it stops working?
Does anyone have any advice on how to get vintage Rolex pieces serviced without ending up with a Frankenwatch?
Happy to provide decisive advice about your collection while being paralyzed in deliberation about mine. "The moral sense in mortals is the duty. We have to pay on mortal sense of beauty." Vladimir Na...
Send it back to Chronext. You don't need it "certified" to be water resistant. Let them service the watch and change the gaskets. You can wear it swimming if the gaskets are changed and everything is put back right. It just won't be certified.
If it were me I'd send it back to Rolex. The watch will come back with a 2 year guarantee and peace of mind it was serviced properly. And, should you want to sell it on the service papers could add a lot of value.
If it were me I'd send it back to Rolex. The watch will come back with a 2 year guarantee and peace of mind it was serviced properly. And, should you want to sell it on the service papers could add a lot of value.
The problem with Rolex is that they will replace some of the original parts, which will make the watch less valuable as a vintage piece to collectors. Effectively you are paying Rolex to devalue your watch
As Michael @minicooper said, have Chronext service it and replace the gaskets (perhaps even inquire about or suggest a new crown as Rolex suggested, returning the original of course).
When it comes back, buy a pressure tester for watches and test the watch yourself.
The problem with Rolex is that they will replace some of the original parts, which will make the watch less valuable as a vintage piece to collectors. Effectively you are paying Rolex to devalue your watch
Eh, fair enough. I'd prefer to have a working non-radioactive watch but that's just me 😅
Eh, fair enough. I'd prefer to have a working non-radioactive watch but that's just me 😅
It's only Tritium so it's not going to harm you wearing the watch. I can understand people wanting lume that works though
Send it back to Chronext. You don't need it "certified" to be water resistant. Let them service the watch and change the gaskets. You can wear it swimming if the gaskets are changed and everything is put back right. It just won't be certified.
They can’t certify because that would make them liable if it doesn’t perform. Doesn’t mean it’s not water resistant. But with vintage and a watch they don’t have a full history on, I can understand them not doing it.
That said, if you plan on keeping it. I’d send it to Rolex and basically let them get the watch to a condition that’s going to last you (and run perfectly) for years more. If you plan on flipping then yeah. You’re correct on all points about original.
Rolliworks. Call Mike there. They are amazing and you'll find no better work. Period.
For anyone else reading DO NOT LET ROLEX SERVICE YOUR VINTAGE WATCH IF YOU WANT TO KEEP IT ORIGINAL. They will swap whatever they feel is needed to freshen it up, regardless of your wishes.
Pay the cost to be the boss😣
You’re gonna have to give up something to get what you want; either keeping original parts or not having WR certified.
Every respected watch maker I’ve talked to will not certify vintage watches (30+ years old) for WR rating. This is for two main reasons; One, often times it doesn’t matter how many new parts you replace, the weak point comes from the case, mainly the groves for the screws in the caseback and crown.
Two, the pressure testing chambers used to verify WR do not accurately represent water exposure, the chamber offers a very linear controlled application of pressure while real life is much more spikey in terms of pressure.
There are plenty of stories online backing this up, they get their vintage watch “certified for WR” only to have water leak in relatively quickly.
I would just find a trusted independent watch maker who will carry out your requests.
I would just pay the 2k and get new hands.
Have you tried the Rolex forums for a reputable watchmaker in your area?
That's what I'd be doing - it could go one of two ways, either the interweb will do its thing and you'll be pummelled by 100's of disperate opinions from people who have no clue what they're talking about or there'll be a consistent recommendation from people who do. 🤷🏻
Either way - it's not advice you're obligated to follow if it doesn't feel right.
The beauty of an old school independent watchmaker - aside from cost - is 'cause they're not governed by corporate overlords they can make their own decisions about what work they're comfortable doing - but as it's trit, not radium, I can't imagine it'll be a problem. And they'll respect your wishes regarding what you want done and (most likely) return any used parts of significance to you with the watch so you still have the original parts.
Good luck!
This is a tough one for me since I know the degree of perfection vintage watch collectors expect. Yet, here is the only caveat, if you don’t plan to sell it and you just want it to be air tight and reliable for your wearing pleasure then get it serviced by Rolex. Yes it will not have the original parts from it’s first run but neither does any of our cars. Yet we rely on our cars and don’t care about the perception of value. Hence, I will get mine serviced by Rolex for that reason. They may not be original to the condition of the watch as it was sold but they are still original Rolex parts with service paperwork.
In contrast to Radon, Tritium is really not an issue, because it decays rather quickly. (Any owner of firearms with tritium-sights would agree.) On a vintage watch this is therefore a non-issue, so I think someone is hiding behind a technicality. (I used to work for a nuclear med department, and any activity should have fallen below any reasonable threshold.)
Vintage watches and water resistance are a thorny subject. Depending on whether certain parts have worn, I'm thinking of worn threads on the stem tube and the crown. I would keep vintage watches of any significant value out of the water.
I understand both sides; Rolex service, and you wanting to keep the original hands.
I would go for Chronext, having the watch serviced and being sure all movement is in correct condition and well lubricated. But I wouldn’t swim with the watch.
The I’ll have an original Rolex, working for many years and serviced. I wouldn’t change the hands neither.
Perhaps I'm overly cautious but I assume vintage watches do NOT have water resistance. This is just not an expectation I have for them.
Any good independent watch maker can pressure test your watch after a service (it often doesn't even cost anything.) I would pay for the cheaper, all original servicing, then take it in to someone who can tell you how much WR you have without putting them in a position of guaranteeing it.
As everyone above has said send it to whoever won't change the hands out. An independent is best if you can find one with good recommendations. I second @Hodonkee and looking in the Rolex forums for references is a good shout.
If anyone changed the bezel, hands or dial on mine I would be livid. Not because of the value (I have owned this so long it is fake money to me anyway) but because it wouldn't look like my watch anymore.
Other than that, enjoy the watch and just don't do anything crazy with it. It will be fine for everyday wear just don't go swimming or sit in the hot tub with it. Get a new watch for that! 😉
I wore my vintage 1675 for about 25 years as a daily. Never thought twice about it and still don't.
Servicing a GMT complication is expensive. If your desire is to keep it as original as possible I’d advise Rolliworks in Miami. The quality of their work is second to none and they’re ready to serve their clients wishes rather than the other way around. I’ve used them several times and I’ve been very pleased.
For anyone else reading DO NOT LET ROLEX SERVICE YOUR VINTAGE WATCH IF YOU WANT TO KEEP IT ORIGINAL. They will swap whatever they feel is needed to freshen it up, regardless of your wishes.
Will they at least give back the old pieces they replace??
Will they at least give back the old pieces they replace??
They do not. Some manufacturers like Omega and Tag do but Rolex does not. They won’t even let you keep your old bracelets. If you buy a new bracelet they keep your old one and destroy it. It’s kind of crazy to me, but that’s how they do it. It’s a major turnoff in my opinion.
They do not. Some manufacturers like Omega and Tag do but Rolex does not. They won’t even let you keep your old bracelets. If you buy a new bracelet they keep your old one and destroy it. It’s kind of crazy to me, but that’s how they do it. It’s a major turnoff in my opinion.
It seems like everything Rolex does is to benefit them and the customer is of secondary concern.
It seems like everything Rolex does is to benefit them and the customer is of secondary concern.
Yes, you are 100% correct. Personally, I have no interest in owning a product from a company like that, regardless of how nice their product is.
So in the most bizarre location , I stumbled upon an amazing watch maker. Here’s a link to where he is. I trusted him with some substantial pieces. https://www.joycesjewelry.com/