How Do You Decide Whether a Watch Should be Bought New or Used?

Hi Crunchers,

I'm pondering getting a used watch--either a Seiko SPB313 or a manually wound Nomos Club. The postings I found usually are 20-30% less than retail and from initial photos are in pretty good condition. The "discount" is making me want to buy used.

But am curious, for those who have done this before, what's been your decision-matrix of sorts for getting something used vs new?

Thank you!

--Credits to the owners of the attached photos--

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I have no problem used under $500 USD. But above $1k or highly complicated you have to factor in servicing costs, fakes, etc. which make me cautious.

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Still in the catalog ➡️ I buy new

Not in the catalog ➡️ I buy used

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In the US typically ADs will offer around 20-30% off new Seikos in my experience. With that in mind, I would lean towards looking for closer to a 50% off what retail would be if I were to go used.

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I prefer pre-owned for any watch that suffers from poor value retention. For example, I picked up a pre-owned mint condition IWC Pilots Chrono 41 with almost all of it's warranty remaining for what worked out to be a 40% discount from list. Of course, you need to do your due diligence and make sure to buy only from trusted sellers.

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I enjoy buying used at a discount. Of course I choose like new pieces and if I don’t like it, I sell it at no loss.

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Oh and you should try the SPB313, I enjoyed it!

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Picked up a lot of great microbrands and other more affordable stuff off eBay and by using the WatchRecon app.

Most expensive used model to date is my Arken Instrumentum. Seeing as how it was a very limited offering, from a relatively obscure micro, the only option was to wait for a used model.

The watch maker/repair shop I go for service near my parents house, has several vintage Tudor Subs, and one day one might follow me home.

Long story short, I have ZERO issues buying used, even luxury stuff.

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The last three watches I purchased were preowned. As others have noted, I too prefer buying from dealers opposed to private sellers if the watch is over ~$500 but it’s not a hard rule. In terms of sourcing preowned from ADs, I have purchased from Exquisite Timepieces and DavidSW with no issues. I also like Topper for clearance plus the used inventory. Made my first preowned purchase via Chrono24. I was able to chat which the dealer and received a good price for a watch I had my eye on for a while. Good luck.

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This is where I am with the Seiko SPB313. I'll definitely do my due diligence with it. Thanks for answering!

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neloms

Oh and you should try the SPB313, I enjoyed it!

It does seem like a winner. It's one of those watches that you have to try in person to get the appeal. I did and was won over. But couldn't justify the retail price for these new Seiko divers just yet 😬

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tempus

I prefer pre-owned for any watch that suffers from poor value retention. For example, I picked up a pre-owned mint condition IWC Pilots Chrono 41 with almost all of it's warranty remaining for what worked out to be a 40% discount from list. Of course, you need to do your due diligence and make sure to buy only from trusted sellers.

Great deal you got there! Yeah, Im conscious of the value retention too. While I believe the whole "buy what you like" mentality, there are just some deals to be had for some models if you look around. Thanks for answering!

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Lauren

In the US typically ADs will offer around 20-30% off new Seikos in my experience. With that in mind, I would lean towards looking for closer to a 50% off what retail would be if I were to go used.

My AD here in the Philippines offered a 20% discount too. But the starting price is a bit inflated because the PHP is weak against USD right now. Thanks for the tip!

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ohmymymichael

My AD here in the Philippines offered a 20% discount too. But the starting price is a bit inflated because the PHP is weak against USD right now. Thanks for the tip!

https://www.gnomonwatches.com/collections/seiko/products/prospex-200m-diver-scuba-automatic-white-ref-sbdc171

Darn! You know what I got an e-mail from Gnomon with that same watch you are eyeing advertised. You can get an additional 10% off with promo code SEIKOVIP10! Does their pricing seem better than what the AD had?

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It depends on your personal finances. For example, for me, anything under $1000 I see no point in buying used. Someone out there might be choking on their cereal because their cut-off in that regard would only be $500. Meanwhile, someone else is smirking that they'd only buy used over $5000. So, you know, it's all relative. But in general terms I think there's a point for everyone where used makes sense... it's just wildly different for everyone.

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I actually think if let’s say, hypothetically, you’re looking to purchase a brand new Hamilton Pioneer 43mm, or even the 38mm.

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You could with the same money buy a used Longines Spirit.

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Same could be said if let’s say you’re looking to buy a brand new Longines Conquest 41, you could buy a used Tudor Black Bay 39/41 for almost the same amount of money.

I would say to aim for a watch that you want first. And see your options in terms of a tier above and a tier below. Ultimately its down to what you like. But if you’re talking about value for money, the finishing, movement, cosc certification, warranty, etc. There are tangible benefits to going a tier up.

Also for me, usually I’d buy used if the watch is one that won’t really retain much value, you can get a handsome discount sometimes. 30-40%

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I buy used a lot. If I'm planning on doing modifications it's smart to buy used. After the mods it's going to look new or if the mods are messed up you aren't losing out as much. Also if the watch has some scratches on it for example. If you know what you are doing you can remove the scratches your self and make the watch look new. Any little fixes that I know how to do can save me lots of money by doing them myself. Also after doing these fixes can increase the value of the watch. Not only did you save money, the possibility is there to make some money. Say you bought a used watch for a few hundred dollars less than it would normally sell for used because it has a scratched lens. You get the watch and decide you don't like it. You replace the lens your self and sell it for the few hundred you saved. You can now buy something else a little more expensive or pocket the extra money. There are all kinds of pluses buying used.

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Rolex, Omega, IWC, Jaeger Lecoultre etc Certain top brands for me would be the ones I would buy new. There are also watches that, because they are limited or out of production, if you want them, they have to be used.

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If I can get a really good deal on a watch, I will buy used. Such as my Seiko SKX013, I bought it broken for around $70, and the only thing wrong with it was the rotor had come unscrewed, took 5 minutes to fix, got well over a 50% discount over a new one. If I am not getting a really good discount by buying used, then I get new.

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By the way, I have the SPB 313, it is a great watch and yes I bought it new

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I find all of my interesting Orients used. The couple JDM models I have were never sold here and from 10 years ago, so don’t have much choice

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ohmymymichael

Great deal you got there! Yeah, Im conscious of the value retention too. While I believe the whole "buy what you like" mentality, there are just some deals to be had for some models if you look around. Thanks for answering!

I still buy what I like, but I also always try to find the best possible deal. I'll never buy a watch simply because it's a great deal, but at the same time, I won't buy a watch that I really like if I feel that the price is higher than what its worth to me. I really like the new IWC Ingenieur, but I don't like it enough to pony up the current list price. If at some point in the future I stumble across one at a price I consider acceptable, I'll probably buy one, but if that never happens I'm not going to lose any sleep over not having it.

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I’m a big fan of used under let’s say $750. I have had good luck for the most part just buying online. Buying used from a trusted brick and mortar (like my local repair guy) would be fine at any price honestly and I intend on getting my next piece from him.

Buying used online is much different for me than buying in a real store and talking to a real watch repairman.

Then there are watches bought for a special occasion that perhaps new is just more sentimental.

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Depends on the price. If I wouldn’t pay retail for a watch, I might want to pay used. If I don’t event want to pay used for it, might as well not buy it 🤣

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My last couple of purchases have been with Chrono24. I decided to buy used because I could save some money of retai price.

Did an extensive research for Chrono24 before buying and then in August bought my first GS 9F.

It was slightly used, but in mint condition, no scratches. Exchanged some messages with the seller. I also picked a seller that was in the same country to avoid duties and provincial taxes. The seller got my funds after I received the watch and made sure it was in good working condition.

The watch was still under warranty and previous owner bought it new in Chrono24. The watch had a full kit with papers. I saved $1300.

The GS 9F keeps excellent time and it’s one of my favourites to wear.

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I prefer buying watches used in most cases. Let someone else take the hit on the depreciation and have the option to re-sell your piece at little to no loss. Bank the money you save for the next purchase for your collection!

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Generally I would do research buy the seller and buy used. Except for Rolex. However there are some Rolex from the 90s2000s that are worth buying used at a premium (to a point).

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pycvalade

Depends on the price. If I wouldn’t pay retail for a watch, I might want to pay used. If I don’t event want to pay used for it, might as well not buy it 🤣

You speak good sense 😁

Thanks for the tip!

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dustparticles

I prefer buying watches used in most cases. Let someone else take the hit on the depreciation and have the option to re-sell your piece at little to no loss. Bank the money you save for the next purchase for your collection!

Very pragmatic. I may be in the same boat. Just need to do my due diligence on the seller and the piece. Thanks for the tip!

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I have never bought used, but I have been buying watches for a year only. So far only AD or reputable grey dealers (mostly grey).

I’m considering to buy used for higher end watches where the price is considerable and that tend to devaluate; for instance I’m looking at Breguet classic, which I would not pay retail.

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Update: I pulled the trigger and got the SPB313 😋

Thanks all for your tips! This community really is something ⌚😁