CW The Twelve - Am I Giving Into The Hype?

The short answer: Yes! Happily.

The longer answer if you really want to know... and not sure anyone is asking: Once one starts going down the watch rabbit hole (as I did, in earnest, several years ago) and start to learn more about the history of different brands and models, you eventually come across Mr. Gerald Genta. I don't remember being particularly aware of him, or the watches most associated with him such as the Royal Oak, and the Nautilus BWS (Before Watch Sickness). But before even being told that these designs were "classic" I was taken by them.

<sadly, not my watches 👆>

The integrated bracelets, the industrial-meets-luxury details, the unique look of these, and the stories of "visionary designer saves the mechanical watch industry from the quartz crisis" all captivated me (like so many others). I thought they were beautiful. I also made peace with the idea that these watches were pretty much unobtainium - impossible to come by, and WAY out of my price range. I never seriously entertained the idea of getting a straight up homage of a either of these. That didn't feel right to me.

Then I discovered other watches he'd designed. Like how he designed the UG Polerouter when he was only 23. And I was equally captivated by this design. The sector-esque dial and the sculpted indices were perfectly balanced and, to my eye unique and beautiful. I didn't really trust wading into the vintage market and having to deal with repairs or the more delicate nature of vintage pieces. I'd consider a modern version of a watch no longer being made... But nobody seemed to be making a polerouter homage. Then I learned that Smiths was working on a Polerouter-inspired watch (to eventually be called the Transglobal), and followed the progress closely. As soon as it went on sale, I jumped on it (which if you know about Timefactors, can be a little tricky), but I managed to get a little taste of Genta-ness with this watch from the very first batch released. It's still one of my favs.

But it didn't really do the integrated bracelet thing, and I did find that look appealing. And, unless you've been under a WFR (Watch-Free Rock) you know how the integrated look has been a growing trend. Clearly other people found it appealing as well.

Several watches in that style caught my eye along the way. The Direnzo DRZ 04 Mondial captured by attention. I'm still in love with how the dial is a kind of bowl form, and how the indices sit on top of it. But I didn't end up getting one (may yet someday).

I contemplated the PRX, but it never quite got my heart-rate up. I rather liked the waffle pattern on the dial, and if I had gotten one as a gift, I'd probably have stopped there and enjoyed it.

I tried on a then-unreleased Maen Manhatten 37 at Windup Watch Fair 2022 and it made my short list of "possible next watch." And I tried the newer, 39mm "thin" version at Windup 2023 and liked how it looked and how it wore.

But by then, Christopher Ward had followed up the Bel Canto (which I thought was cool, and impressive, but not really something I desired to own), with The Twelve. THAT one caught my eye. Especially the titanium version with that slightly darker tone to the metal, that electric blue, textured, degrade dial, thin profile and so much more. I devoured any content I could find on it (special shout out to videos by @AndrewMorgan which I found particularly enjoyable, convincing and informative - as I find most of his content).

<Me, trying the TTT (Ti The Twelve) on at Windup NYC 2023 👆>

It was at the high end, price-wise of anything in my collection, but i'd been saving some, and being more choiceful with each new addition to my collection (meaning sometimes willing to reach a little higher in price as with my Lorca Model 1 GMT, or Hanhart 417 ES 1954) I was prepared to go there.

Sure, it had been a bit of an "it watch." But it had also been out for a year or so, and I still kept looking at it. I appreciated the design choices, the inspiration it was drawing from, the details of the case, the dial, the bracelet. In short, I liked it because I liked it, not because of the hype (at least that's what I think). I wanted it.

So with some funds available I pulled the trigger Sunday night. And although I was settling in for a good long wait for it to ship overseas... yesterday, IT ARRIVED! (or more accurately... I obsessively refreshed the order page, not really expecting anything - and then it said it was "dispatched." and then obsessively refreshed the DHL page until it was "out for delivery" and THEN it arrived 😀)

It appears that they've redesigned the packaging a bit to make it more compact (something I actually appreciate), but still beautiful and impressive.

This becomes my first fully integrated bracelet watch in my collection

First COSC certified movement for me

Not the first titanium watch (that would be the SWC Bunker), but first to have this level and variety of finishing.

I wore it out last night

Let it pass the PDT (puppy dog test)...

...and of course put it on again today. I'm about 24 hrs in, and I'm loving it so far.

A few initial observations:

• It's light, but not overly so. Some people were complaining that it didn't have enough heft. I was worried it might feel hollow (like my Baltic MR01 feels a little to light when I pick it up, but it's fine once it's on). However, I feel like The Twelve feels solid and well made - not like a toy at all. YMMV

• I had no trouble getting a good fit with the butterfly clasp (removed some full-size links and left the shorter ones) and I really like how it completes the look

• The blue on the dial is bright, with an almost metallic sheen to it. It's not subtle, but not crazy either. I love it. If this were my "one watch" (something I used to have BWS) I'd probably have gone with one of the versions in steel - for scratch resistance, and a more versatile, less out-there color.

• The 40mm size works great (in my opinion) on my 7-inch-ish wrist. I had looked at the 36mm and also like how those wore, but happy with this color and size.

I'm very happy with my newest addition! If you made it all the way to here fellow watch nerd... Thank you for reading!

What do you think of The Twelve? Over-hyped? Overly derivative? Something you want? Something you have? Let me know. And may you someday be fortunate enough to get the watch you've been thinking about 🍻