Geneva Chronicles: Artisanal German & Swiss Masterpieces on Day 1 of Watches & Wonders 2024

The Louisville RedBar Crew set out early on Saturday morning, eager to make the most of the day ahead. With the PalExpo opening its doors at 8:30 am, we planned to arrive promptly, using either the public tram service or the convenient W&W Shuttle that conveniently stopped near our hotel.

The excitement of the expo was palpable right from the entrance, where I was greeted by the A. Lange & Söhne display. Naturally, I made a beeline for their booth, and the experience lived up to my expectations. Dominating the space was an impressively large-scale model of their 2024 showpiece, the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon “Lumen”. I found myself wishing for the ability to upload high-quality video to truly convey the spectacle. Every half hour, a presentation would begin, activating the model to showcase its intricate functions and the striking luminescence of the dial, with strategically placed black lights above enhancing the brilliant display of the lume.

The most astonishing aspect of this Lange model is a rare oversight on the movement side, where a component was not correctly positioned. I'm curious to see if anyone can spot the error from this photo. Interestingly, during the fair, I was the only attendee who managed to identify this mistake!

Additionally, I learned that this model was primarily constructed using wood, which was then coated with a metallic foil to give it the appearance of metal.

During the event, Lange showcased several notable pieces, including the Zeitwerk Honeygold "Lumen" below. On my final day in Geneva, I encountered a truly remarkable Lange collector who not only brought this exact model to the show but also displayed several other prominent watches from the brand. This serendipitous meeting provided a unique opportunity to see these prestigious timepieces up close, including some of the brand's most acclaimed models. I look forward to showcasing some of those watches in an upcoming post.

The unique allure of the Lange Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon "Honeygold Lumen" is not fully captured in photographs. This exquisite timepiece, priced at €620,000 and limited to just 50 units worldwide, features a distinctive gold alloy known as Honeygold. The color of Honeygold is uniquely elusive, presenting not as purely pink, yellow, or white gold but with a mysterious hue that varies under different lighting conditions—sometimes appearing nearly as white gold, at other times exhibiting a subtle yellow or rosy tint.

The exact formula of this proprietary alloy remains a closely guarded secret of Lange, adding to the allure of the watch. Honeygold is not only notable for its unique color but also for its hardness; it measures approximately 300 Vickers. This is significantly tougher than standard 18k gold alloys used in jewelry and watches, which typically measure around 140 HV for rose gold, 155 HV for yellow gold, and 210 HV for white gold. For comparison, stainless steel ranges from 200-250 HV. The robustness of Honeygold makes the Datograph not only a stunning visual piece but also a durable choice that stands out for its practical resilience.

This masterpiece is exceptionally rare, limited to just 50 pieces globally. Intriguingly, its movement has been refined from 729 to 684 parts, reducing the component count by 45!

One of Lange's standout references is thier 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar shown below ⬇

The minute repeater is one of the most complex complications in watchmaking, and integrating it into the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk adds an additional layer of complexity. Here's why it's a remarkable feat of mechanical engineering:

Integrating a minute repeater into the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk is a significant engineering challenge due to its complex digital display and substantial energy demands. The minute repeater must synchronize perfectly with the digital display to accurately chime the hours, quarters, and minutes, requiring precise management of energy distribution.

The mechanism's integration without compromising the existing features or aesthetic, alongside ensuring the chimes are clear and resonant, adds layers of complexity. Additionally, both the watch's jumping numeral display and the minute repeater's chimes need to be powered efficiently without affecting the watch's timekeeping accuracy.

The A. Lange & Söhne Tourbograph Perpetual “Honeygold” is a horological masterpiece combining several high complications in a single timepiece. Crafted in the brand’s exclusive Honeygold alloy, which is known for its warm tone and durability, the watch features a tourbillon, a perpetual calendar, and a chronograph with a rattrapante (split-seconds) function. The tourbillon ensures greater accuracy by countering the effects of gravity on the movement’s precision. The perpetual calendar automatically recognizes the varying lengths of the months and leap years, meaning it won’t require manual adjustment until the year 2100, provided the watch remains wound. The rattrapante allows the timing of simultaneous events with two seconds hands on the chronograph.

The A. Lange & Söhne Langematik Perpetual elegantly merges classic Saxony watchmaking with advanced complications. This sophisticated timepiece features a perpetual calendar displaying the date, day, month, and leap year that requires no adjustment until 2100, alongside a moon phase indicator accurate for 122.6 years and a 24-hour day/night subdial. Uniquely, it incorporates a self-winding movement—rare for Lange which typically favors manual winding—and was the first to combine a perpetual calendar with the brand’s signature oversized date. Crafted with meticulous attention to detail, the Langematik Perpetual appeals to collectors who value technical excellence and subtle elegance.

The Lange 1 Tourbillon "Handwerkskunst" with a black enameled white gold dial is a limited-edition horological work of art by A. Lange & Söhne, showcasing the brand's mastery of craftsmanship and design. This timepiece is distinguished by a solid white gold dial coated with black enamel, which provides a stark, elegant backdrop for the off-center time display and outsize date that are hallmarks of the Lange 1 series. The "Handwerkskunst" designation signifies the exceptional hand-finished decorations on the movement and dial. It features a one-minute tourbillon, visible through an aperture in the dial, which compensates for gravitational errors in timekeeping. The meticulous craftsmanship extends to the movement, with intricate decorations that can be admired through the sapphire crystal case back. This edition's 20 piece exclusivity, precision mechanics, and exquisite finishing make it a coveted piece for collectors.

The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon combines traditional design with advanced horological technology. The 1815 designation is a nod to the birth year of the company's founder, Ferdinand A. Lange, and the series is characterized by its classic design elements inspired by pocket watches. This timepiece features a one-minute tourbillon, visible through an aperture in the dial, which serves to increase the movement's precision by counteracting the effects of gravity. It also boasts a stop-seconds mechanism for the tourbillon, allowing for precise time setting to the second—a rare feature in tourbillon watches. With a beautifully finished movement that reflects the brand's commitment to superior craftsmanship, the 1815 Tourbillon is a testament to A. Lange & Söhne’s heritage and mechanical prowess.

The Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar “Terraluna” by A. Lange & Söhne is a masterpiece of precision and design. It features a perpetual calendar that accurately tracks the day, date, month, and leap year, aligning perfectly with the Gregorian calendar until 2100 without any need for manual adjustment. On the case back, an innovative orbital moon phase display illustrates the moon's position relative to the Earth and the Sun.

One of the most remarkable features of this watch is its 14-day power reserve, which is achieved through a meticulously engineered twin mainspring barrel. This design allows the watch to run for an extended period between windings, maintaining consistent accuracy throughout. The incorporation of this long power reserve with complex functions like the perpetual calendar and precise moon phase display underscores A. Lange & Söhne's commitment to combining traditional craftsmanship with sophisticated mechanical solutions. This not only enhances the functional appeal of the watch but also solidifies its status as a highly sought-after piece for collectors and horology enthusiasts.

The Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar with a salmon dial is a striking variation of A. Lange & Söhne's revered Lange 1 series. This timepiece beautifully marries the classic Lange 1 design — known for its off-center, non-overlapping displays and outsized date — with the sophisticated functionality of a perpetual calendar. The salmon-colored dial lends a warm, distinctive look that contrasts elegantly against the watch's white gold or platinum case, enhancing its visual appeal and readability.

The Lange Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst is a showcase of A. Lange & Söhne's exceptional craftsmanship and mechanical innovation, distinguished by its unique rectangular case and elaborate artistry. This model stands out with its one-minute tourbillon designed to counteract gravity's effects on the watch's accuracy, paired with a stop-seconds mechanism for precise time setting. A defining feature of this watch is its five-day power reserve, which is exceptionally long for a tourbillon and ensures continuous, reliable operation. The "Handwerkskunst" label denotes the high level of decorative finishing, including hand engravings and meticulous detailing on both the movement and dial. This timepiece is a blend of technical precision, luxury, and art, making it highly prized among collectors and horology enthusiasts.

The A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Tourbillon "Pour le Mérite" is a testament to precision and aesthetic sophistication. As part of the "Pour le Mérite" series, it features the historic fusée-and-chain transmission for consistent force delivery and enhanced timekeeping accuracy. This model includes a one-minute tourbillon with a stop-seconds mechanism for precise time setting, visible through a dial aperture to counteract gravity's effects. The unique dial layout, with a prominent minute circle and smaller overlapping sub-dials for hours and seconds, ensures legibility and aesthetic harmony. Crafted with high-end materials, the Richard Lange Tourbillon "Pour le Mérite" stands as a pinnacle of horological craftsmanship, making it highly prized among collectors.

The Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar by A. Lange & Söhne is a remarkable integration of two prestigious complications: a tourbillon and a perpetual calendar. This timepiece is part of the iconic Lange 1 family, known for its unique, asymmetrical dial arrangement and oversized date display, which have become hallmarks of the brand.

The A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph expands the brand's sportier offerings with a sophisticated chronograph in a rare stainless steel case, emphasizing robustness and daily wearability. This model introduces a flyback function for rapid, consecutive timing, and maintains the Odysseus line's clean, legible aesthetics with integrated counters and a prominent date display. Designed for practical luxury, it features a screw-down crown and sufficient water resistance for sporting activities. Combining functionality, precision, and Lange's renowned craftsmanship, the Odysseus Chronograph appeals to both long-time collectors and newcomers seeking a luxury sports watch.

The A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split represents a pinnacle in the field of chronographs, pushing the boundaries of precision, functionality, and design. It is the world’s first mechanical split-seconds chronograph that allows multi-hour comparative time measurements, expanding the capabilities of the traditional Rattrapante function.

The A. Lange & Söhne Double Split is a highly sophisticated timepiece that elevates the traditional split-seconds chronograph to new heights. As the world's first double rattrapante chronograph, it features two pairs of stopwatch hands (seconds and minutes) that can be used to time simultaneous events of up to 30 minutes apart—unlike standard split-second chronographs which only measure seconds.

This innovation allows for multiple and comparative timing, such as capturing lap times while continuing to record the overall event duration, all with exceptional precision. The Double Split showcases A. Lange & Söhne's commitment to horological excellence with its intricate movement, which is beautifully displayed through the sapphire crystal case back. The dial is meticulously organized to maintain legibility despite its complex functionalities, including the flyback mechanism and precise jumping minute counters.

Crafted with the utmost attention to detail, the Double Split is not only a functional masterpiece but also a demonstration of superior craftsmanship, making it a coveted piece among collectors and enthusiasts of high-complication watches.

This timepiece can measure concurrent events for up to 12 hours, distinguishing it from typical split-second chronographs that are limited to short durations of 60 seconds. The "triple split" refers to its ability to record split seconds, split minutes, and even split hours, a feature that is unrivaled among chronographs.

Crafted with meticulous detail, the watch includes a complex dial layout that remains remarkably legible despite its comprehensive functionality. The movement, visible through a sapphire crystal case back, showcases Lange's exceptional finishing and is a testament to their mastery in watchmaking. The Triple Split is not only a technical marvel but also a significant horological achievement that caters to both sports enthusiasts and those who appreciate the highest level of mechanical sophistication.

The enlarged Lange Caliber L951.1 is particularly fascinating to me. This refined movement showcases the exceptional craftsmanship and technical prowess for which A. Lange & Söhne is renowned. Its intricate design and enhanced size allow for a deeper appreciation of the mechanical complexities involved, making it a standout feature that captures the essence of high-end watchmaking.

The latest A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Up/Down introduced at Watches and Wonders 2024 is a testament to the brand's commitment to advancing the art of watchmaking. This piece features the acclaimed flyback chronograph function, allowing for the immediate restart of timing, paired with a precisely jumping minute counter for impeccable accuracy in measurements. The iconic outsized date is prominently displayed, ensuring legibility and staying true to the design ethos of the Lange family.

A noteworthy feature is the Up/Down power reserve indicator, elegantly integrated into the dial, signaling the watch's substantial 60-hour power reserve. Manually wound, this timepiece is as much a joy to interact with as it is to wear. The caliber L951.6 movement, consisting of 451 parts, is a marvel of engineering, showcasing the brand's mastery in creating complex, reliable, and beautifully crafted movements.

Debuting in 2024, this Datograph Up/Down is a blend of traditional Saxon watchmaking and modern innovation.

Following my visit to A. Lange & Söhne, I made my way to the adjacent stand of Parmigiani Fleurier, which was a natural progression. I've long admired the Tonda PF collection, and I was thrilled to discover that they were offering reservations for hands-on "Touch & Feel" sessions. This presented a unique opportunity for me to experience Parmigiani Fleurier watches up close for the first time.

Currently, the Tonda PF stands as Parmigiani Fleurier's iconic collection, garnering attention for its striking integrated bracelet design. Among the lineup, the GMT and the Minute Rattrapante references are particularly popular, showcasing the brand's expertise in creating timepieces with both sophisticated aesthetics and real life functionality.

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante features an innovative timing function that allows for minute-specific tracking over short periods, akin to a dive watch bezel but integrated into the movement. It sports a 40mm stainless steel case with a platinum knurled bezel, and the movement, visible through a sapphire caseback, boasts a 48-hour power reserve. The watch carries an in-house automatic calibre with a micro-rotor.

The PF051 automatic movement, visible through the sapphire case back, includes a 22k rose gold micro-rotor and offers a 48-hour power reserve. The Milano blue dial is enhanced by a delicate grain d'orge guilloché pattern and skeletonized gold hands. It’s an elegant, mechanically innovative piece reflecting Parmigiani Fleurier's high standards in watchmaking.

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante is a novel take on the dual time zone complication. With a 40mm stainless steel case and a knurled platinum 950 bezel, it’s a watch designed for global travelers who value both innovation and minimalism. The unique feature of this watch is its two superimposed hour hands, with the ability to adjust the local time in one-hour increments using the pusher at 8 o'clock. The watch simplifies back to a two-hand display when the second time zone isn't needed, thanks to a reset mechanism activated by the crown's pusher.

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph exemplifies elegance and functionality in a refined sports watch. Housed in a 42mm stainless steel or precious metal case, it features a clean and uncluttered dial with sub-dials for elapsed time. The watch's sapphire case back reveals a meticulously crafted movement, highlighting Parmigiani's dedication to hand finishing & chronometric precision. Ideal for everyday wear and special events, the Tonda PF Chronograph offers a harmonious blend of luxury and practicality, making it a standout choice for discerning collectors.

We were escorted into a private room outfitted for a detailed examination of the timepieces, complete with multiple gloves and loupes arranged on the table for our use. Here, they unveiled the latest novelties for Watches and Wonders 2024, allowing us an up-close, hands-on experience with these exceptional new releases. First up were the new Calendar watches….

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Gregorian Annual Calendar is a masterfully crafted timepiece that elegantly combines the traditional appeal of the Tonda line with advanced horological features. This watch is equipped with an annual calendar that only requires manual correction once a year in February, automatically adjusting for all other months. It also features a retrograde date indicator, enhancing its functionality and visual appeal. The date arcs gracefully across the top half of the dial, resetting back to the start at the end of each month. Complemented by day and month displays and a precise moon phase indicator, the design maintains a clean and luxurious look. This model is ideal for connoisseurs who value sophisticated, practical timekeeping tools wrapped in a minimalist aesthetic.

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Hijri Perpetual Calendar is a remarkable timepiece that skillfully integrates Islamic lunar calendar functionality into a luxurious wristwatch. This watch features a perpetual lunar calendar mechanism that automatically adjusts for the 29.5-day lunar cycle, accounting for the variations in the Islamic calendar without needing manual correction.

Distinct from typical Gregorian calendar watches, the Tonda PF Hijri displays the day, date, month, and year entirely based on the Islamic lunar calendar, and it includes a beautifully detailed moon phase indicator. The dial is exquisitely designed with Arabic script, reinforcing its cultural significance and aesthetic appeal. This model not only highlights Parmigiani Fleurier's technical prowess but also its sensitivity to cultural horological traditions, offering a unique piece for collectors and admirers of sophisticated, culturally resonant timepieces.

The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronograph Rattrapante features an advanced mechanical setup that includes a double column wheel mechanism, enhancing the precision and reliability of its chronograph functions. The double column wheel system facilitates a smoother and more accurate operation of the start, stop, and reset functions of the chronograph, particularly benefiting the rattrapante functionality where precision timing is crucial.

Additionally, the movement operates at a high beat rate of 5 Hz which allows for measurement that is more precise than the standard 4 Hz rate found in many contemporary watches.

Apologies for the abrupt end; I'm constrained by an 80,000 limit