"Speedmaster-esque" vs "Speedmaster-ish"
Speedmaster-esque vs Speedmaster-ish
To many wristwatch aficionados, particularly those whose interests also include vintage aviation and the space program of the 1960s, the timeless and classic Omega Speedmaster is a desirable “grail”. Realistically though, many can’t (or are unwilling to) justify the cost of an actual Speedy and instead, decide upon an alternative or an homage.
I am one of those folks.
Luckily, I have both a Speedmaster “alternative” and “homage” in my modest collection; the Seiko SSB031 and the recently acquired Pagani Design PD1701 version 3, and I will compare the two in this mini review of budget “Speedys”.
The physical specs of these two watches can be readily looked up on the internet for those who’re interested, so I won’t go into them here. Rather, this will just be my personal impressions of these similar, but different takes on the famous Omega.
Firstly, the Seiko SSB031. It is a racing-style chronograph that some online reviewers tout as an affordable alternative to the Speedmaster. It is powered by Seiko’s 6T63 meca-quartz movement that is employed in many other pieces in the Seiko lineup. This engine is known for its accuracy and general reliability and the chronograph mechanism “snaps” the chrono hand back to the 12 o’clock position when reset, like a fully mechanical chronograph. The chrono pushers at 2 and 4 are firm and offer a satisfying “click” when engaged. The Seiko has a highly legible white-on-black dial with applied indices. The chronograph hand and the minute markers at 3, 6 ,9 and 12 are red, which add a very pleasing splash of color to the dial. The case is a combination of polished and brushed stainless steel, nicely finished with smooth edges. The lug-to-lug is relatively short (fits my skinny wrist well) and the bracelet, while not high end, is certainly comfortable; my only complaint is only two micro-adjust holes. The crystal is the usual Seiko Hardlex, which is perfectly fine, and the lume is positively “nuclear”, glowing like a reactor core for a substantial amount of time! The black tachymeter bezel, while steel, is finished such that it appears to be ceramic. Stylistically, the SSB031 “resembles” a Speedmaster rather than trying to directly copy it. Imagine if you will that a classic Omega Speedy and a 70’s-styled chronograph had a baby!
Pagani’s PD1701 on the other hand is a direct homage to the famous Omega, mirroring its dial, case, and hands. To the casual observer, the Pagani could be mistaken for an actual Speedmaster, a fact that makes it an appealing choice for many budget-minded watch enthusiasts. The stainless-steel case is “sexier” looking that that of the Seiko, however the overall finishing is not nearly as good with many sharp edges, particularly on the undersides and ends of the lugs. This shortcoming is somewhat made up for by the screw-down, signed crown, lovely domed sapphire crystal and the deep, black ceramic tachymeter bezel. The Pagani is powered by a VK63 meca-quartz movement, which is in fact an aftermarket Seiko 6T63, so the sub dial layout and function, and date window position are the exact same as SSB031. The chrono pushers are not nearly as secure as the Seiko’s, feeling slightly wobbly to the touch. The chrono reset function sometimes seems to hesitate to snap the chrono hand back to the 12 (depending on the position the hand was stopped at), though it ultimately does return. This might be a case of the chrono mechanism not being as finely “tuned” as that of the Seiko, or it could just be a peculiarity of the watch I received? Lume on the Pagani isn’t bad, comparable to some of the Casio’s I own, but not nearly as ferocious as that of the Seiko. The fabric, leather-backed strap looks good, but is stiff and rather cheap feeling. Swapping out for a nice rubber or leather rally-styled strap would be a vast improvement.
Conclusions. Both watches are fine looking pieces that any budget-minded fan of the Omega Speedmaster would likely find appealing. Overall, the Seiko SSB031 feels like it is a better-quality piece than the Pagani Design PD1701. So, if you are satisfied with an alternative, the Seiko would be the better choice of the two.
The Pagani is no slouch though, and if you just must have a direct Speedmaster homage, then the Pagani is arguably the preferred watch. You’ll pay less than the Seiko too, and the Pagani’s domed sapphire is awesome!
I am a middle-aged watch aficionado from "Kanuckistan", who also enjoys motorcycles, guitar, European beer, cheap whiskey, and Road Trips!
I have the Seiko Flightmaster (I think with the same movement as your SSB0310) and it's just about the pefect watch for me. It and the Casio GM-2100 are my top two watches in my collection.
I also have the Pagani Speedy clone and while it's a good watch and looks the part, the bezel, noon mark, and seconds hand don't exactly line up. The seconds hand lines up perfectly with the bezel, but both are just slightly to the right of the noon mark. Isn't noticeable from a foot away, and if I needed to time something exactly I have two G-Shocks that would beat a real Omega, so I'm not too fussed.
I'm honest with myself about it being a fashion choice. 😎
I have the Seiko Flightmaster (I think with the same movement as your SSB0310) and it's just about the pefect watch for me. It and the Casio GM-2100 are my top two watches in my collection.
I also have the Pagani Speedy clone and while it's a good watch and looks the part, the bezel, noon mark, and seconds hand don't exactly line up. The seconds hand lines up perfectly with the bezel, but both are just slightly to the right of the noon mark. Isn't noticeable from a foot away, and if I needed to time something exactly I have two G-Shocks that would beat a real Omega, so I'm not too fussed.
I'm honest with myself about it being a fashion choice. 😎
I would saw off a leg for a Seiko Flighty, especially the blue-on-white (and rare) SNA413 model. The "Flightmaster" is a bit of a grail of mine, but they've skyrocketed (pardon pun 😉) in price lately! 😮
Yeah, I bit the bullet and got one. Because WANT.
But it sucks seeing all the “best watch under $200” Flighty videos…
Welcome to the affordable alternativr world sir. Im with you with this one
I have a Seiko SSB045 that I really like... with the Tachymeter on the chapter ring, it is more like a Rolex pre-Daytona ref. 6238 than a Speedmaster. As-sold, it had no lume...I added the lumed hands for better legibility:
I got the Pagani last year after listening to all the hype, I wasn't disappointed. Has its minor issues but not enough to turn me off in fact, I'm thinking about trying the Milgauss or Airking models. Heard good "for the price" reviews on both. I'm not to proud 😎
Timex Q Chrono is also a nice 60's looking speedy for the 200 dollar range.
I have a Seiko SSB045 that I really like... with the Tachymeter on the chapter ring, it is more like a Rolex pre-Daytona ref. 6238 than a Speedmaster. As-sold, it had no lume...I added the lumed hands for better legibility:
Nice mod with the lumed hand set! 😎 My other Seiko chrono (the SSB377P1), like yours, doesn't have any lume and also has the tachymeter on the chapter ring. It was a gift from my GF and the deep blue color is really nice. Kinda has a 70's thing goin' on 😀
Thanks for the write up! I've often thought about one of the Dan Henry watches to scratch this itch. Poking around the internet I found this by Sternglas. It is not exactly the look, but it is a looker :)
I’ve gone back and forth on my opinions of Pagani, but I must say if I bought one it would likely be the speedy homage! Such a great looking watch. I have had a couple of Seiko mecha-quartz chronographs before and really enjoy the movements. Just haven’t been able to pull the trigger on a new one yet!
Nobody still didn't post Bulova Lunar Pilot?
Nobody still didn't post Bulova Lunar Pilot?
Yep, @itfighter just beat me to it. One affordable Speedy alternative is the Bulova Lunar Pilot. There is a newer 43.5mm (smaller?) version around $895 MSRP (but available with a discount/ not that I have asked) or the older bigger version which can be had for even bigger discounts (often under $400). Sure it's not the original mechanical movement but it's a cool high accuracy quartz and calls back to the historical watch actually worn on the moon and first to be driven on the moon.
Another early affordable Apollo era astronaut mission worn watch that you can get is the Glycine Airman. Pete Conrad most likely wore the Airman as one of "3 watches!!!" (2 on the right arm 1 on the left). Forget Schwarzkopfing, we should talk about Conrading.
I thought I was obsessed with trying to identify watches in pictures, TV and movies but the pics below (along with many others) can be found at this link along with a good and reasonable explanation for why the Airman most likely flew on Gemini 5 and 11 (and could have been on Apollo 12 but no photos because I guess watch nerds weren't as crazy back then): .
The key line (which you included), being, "if you are satisfied with an alternative".
I find in watch collecting there are people who are satisfied with a cheap watch on their wrist that kinda, sorta evokes a legendary watch. Presumably it's more about 'the look' for them, than the substance.
But there are also people who spend years buying 'homages' and things and are never really happy because at the end of the day, if you want a Speedmaster, wearing some cheap, Chinese knock-off isn't really going to scratch the itch. It's not a Speedmaster. The same as the Moonswatch isn't a Speedmaster, but that's a whole other rabbit hole to go down. Such folk are better off not buying homage watches at all and just saving for their grail or, if that's never on the cards for them, to buy into a cheaper watch with its own legend. In this style of watch, for example, the Bulova Lunar Pilot is an absolute no-brainer.
The key line (which you included), being, "if you are satisfied with an alternative".
I find in watch collecting there are people who are satisfied with a cheap watch on their wrist that kinda, sorta evokes a legendary watch. Presumably it's more about 'the look' for them, than the substance.
But there are also people who spend years buying 'homages' and things and are never really happy because at the end of the day, if you want a Speedmaster, wearing some cheap, Chinese knock-off isn't really going to scratch the itch. It's not a Speedmaster. The same as the Moonswatch isn't a Speedmaster, but that's a whole other rabbit hole to go down. Such folk are better off not buying homage watches at all and just saving for their grail or, if that's never on the cards for them, to buy into a cheaper watch with its own legend. In this style of watch, for example, the Bulova Lunar Pilot is an absolute no-brainer.
I was going to respond to this with what I really thought, but remembered that WatchCrunch is inclusive... folks should wear what they like.
I also think more G-Shocks have been into space than Speedmasters or the single Bulova prototype, making a $50 DW5600 the real no-brainer for space watches: https://airandspace.si.edu/collection-objects/wristwatch-casio-g-shock-shuttle/nasm_A20130073000
https://www.fratellowatches.com/value-proposition-the-40-space-watch-from-casio-right-under-your-nose/#gref
I was going to respond to this with what I really thought, but remembered that WatchCrunch is inclusive... folks should wear what they like.
I also think more G-Shocks have been into space than Speedmasters or the single Bulova prototype, making a $50 DW5600 the real no-brainer for space watches: https://airandspace.si.edu/collection-objects/wristwatch-casio-g-shock-shuttle/nasm_A20130073000
https://www.fratellowatches.com/value-proposition-the-40-space-watch-from-casio-right-under-your-nose/#gref
My comment was, "In this style of watch, for example, the Bulova Lunar Pilot is an absolute no-brainer."
Note the wording: in this style of watch, ie: a Speedmaster style chronograph.
So you can make a case for G-Shocks and space, sure, go for it. But please don't think it was some sort of rebuttal/shutdown of what I said, because you're comparing apples and oranges.
If you can think of a Speedmaster style watch, with real space heritage, that isn't the Speedmaster or the Lunar Pilot, I'm sure the community would love to hear about it and get their hands on it.
My comment was, "In this style of watch, for example, the Bulova Lunar Pilot is an absolute no-brainer."
Note the wording: in this style of watch, ie: a Speedmaster style chronograph.
So you can make a case for G-Shocks and space, sure, go for it. But please don't think it was some sort of rebuttal/shutdown of what I said, because you're comparing apples and oranges.
If you can think of a Speedmaster style watch, with real space heritage, that isn't the Speedmaster or the Lunar Pilot, I'm sure the community would love to hear about it and get their hands on it.
Yes, you are correct that the Lunar Pilot is a less expensive watch in the style of the Speedmaster with it's own legend... my statement was not meant as a rebuttal. It was more of a financial comment that a $50 watch might be closer to a "no-brainer" for most people (especially those reading the OP's reviews) than a watch with an MSRP between $500 (on sale from $625) and $995 for the various 45mm and 43mm models.
What I refrained from saying earlier is that your original comment came across as tone-deaf and/or trollish, especially for an inclusive watch community like WatchCrunch. Like others, you could have just recommended the Lunar Pilot as having heritage. Instead:
You insulted the OP's premise that one can be "satisfied with an alternative."
You insulted the OP's (and my similar) Seiko by basically calling them "cheap watches" with no "substance."
You insulted the OP's PD1701 (and similar homages) as a "cheap, Chinese knock-off" and a futile waste of money that "isn't really going to scratch the itch."
An finally, you insulted the intelligence of all of us satisfied with budget watches by recommending a watch at 5-10X the price of those reviewed by the OP as being the "absolute no-brainer" choice.
Speaking of the Bulova Lunar Pilot, it too has an amazing history with Apollo 15. The modern reincarnation is really an homage to the original prototype that ended up EVAing on the Moon ... and it certainly is a more affordable alternative to the Speedy. Love the 43mm "Snoopy", but it would still likely be too large for my skinny wrist, with it having a 50mm-ish lug-to-lug 😀
Very nice, I think the two pinch hitters you picked are quite nice. Might I suggest or have you considered a vintage Seiko chronograph? These can be had for a fraction of a period speedy yet have all of the panache. Think 6138 or 6139 series, there were a ton of variants.