First Visit to Grand Seiko AD and Mostly Underwhelmed

Prior to a few days ago, I had only seen a couple of Grand Seikos out in the wild. I'd been wanting to check them out in person, so I finally went out of my way to an AD and tried a bunch of them on. I came away with a few big impressions: (1) Textured dials are not for me. Why would I want the dial on my $8k watch to look like a crumpled piece of paper? (2) The bracelets and clasps on most models are subpar compared to some other luxury brands with similar price points  like Rolex or IWC. (3) Most of the non-textured dials are a bit "cold" and uninteresting to me. I don't know what it is but most of the non-textured dials just didn't excite me. (4) The brand does have a lot of potential. The fit of many of the watches was actually great despite the spec measurements being a bit thick in most cases. I liked some of the case work. The case on the SBGW291 was beautiful (new 44GS case). I like the idea of luxury quartz for certain styles of watches and could see myself getting one if the right model came along. 

I encourage everyone to go see these watches in person. I like that Grand Seiko has its own design language and is offering something different even though I mostly didn't connect with the brand. The one exception perhaps was the SBGW291. I'm not sure I want an all silver dial, but legibility was decent considering the lack of contrasting indices or lume, and I loved the case shape. I tried on a silver dial Rolex Oyster Perpetual the same day and preferred the GS  Still, I'm not sure Grand Seiko has yet made a watch that is right for me. 

Anyone else a bit underwhelmed by Grand Seiko?

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We will all move aside and let the man (Brian aka @HotWatchChick69 ) go through.

Grabbing popcorn and a Cherry Coke now.

Edit: We all have preferences. Some appreciate the finer details in a GS dial, movement, and finish, and other appreciate the finer points of other brands. It is all good!

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My buddy and I went to the Beverly Hills GS boutique, back when I was Omeganut.  The Soko Light, the Omiwatari, and the Shosho had been at the top of my list.  Tried them on, checked out the dials...  was totally underwhelmed.  Laughed at my buddy for being such an Otaku, and told him that real watch enthusiasts collected Omega.

Turns out I am not this...

Bathroom fighting scene - Casino royale on Make a GIF

This is who I truly am, as a year later all my Omega are gone and it's all GS all the time now...

For the first time ever, man falls in love with a pillow ...

So, all joking aside:

  • I've come to discover that the only reason I have watches is that they're really pretty jewelry that's socially acceptable for men in corporate America to wear.  Otherwise, I'd be decked out in  diamonds from head to toe!
  • GS dials only really come to life in sunlight or really bright lighting - most of the time, they're so subtle that you have to really squint to really see 'em
  • If blingy jewelry ain't your thing, and instead it's all about tool watch aesthetics, then there are far, far superior brands out there!
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I agree. Some of the dials just felt like a nice Seiko to me and not really a true step up into luxury. I think maybe my personal style is also just a bit too traditional or classic. I love a good guilloche dial for instance (like on a Reverso), but not the GS textures which seem like either wrinkled dials or spray paint dials to me (often in odd colors). 

I really did like the case finishing on the updated 44GS case, but I think you are right that it is hard for that to justify such a huge price premium. The watch I liked most  (SBGW 291) has a closed case back (fine with me but should cost a lot less than a watch with a highly decorated automatic movement and an open case back) and an okay dial but nothing special to me  There was also no bracelet option. I know it is a bit of a dressier option, but I don't want to wear leather on a hot and humid summer day. 

I'm still trying to decide on my future dress watch. Excited to see updated  IWC Portofinos for men that should come out later this year. l am also considering a Reverso and constantly scoping out new steel dress watches between $5-$10k.  The dials on the JLC and IWC watches are far superior to the GS dial in my opinion. I may come back to the SBGW291 again and see how I feel after some time has passed (especially if I can get a discount and find a bracelet that will work with it).  

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I'll give u one word -"austerity ". My boss loves gs because most ppl think it's a seiko for $200. They r strict and boring because 1)  it's done for their local market to begin with , 2) that's their formula and design language . Ppl who buy those get them for that under radar look and high beat, spring drive movement and most importantly maximum in house Japanes  manufacturin and hand work that goes into making the watch ( Swiss only 50% needs to be made in Switzerland)  Did u see their gold models , they r way too overpriced even if u compare it to the holy trinity . Gs doesn't care , those models are made for Japan because locally they r consumed like nowhere else . In the west 45k for a gold case 3 hander is madness . Ppl won't buy it because it's not rational ( steel 8k and gold 5.5 times more expensive). Breguet charges 22, patek and vacheron 30 ... 

But then again to each is own. I just decided this year that I'll be going mostly for German and japanese watches because I get more for what I pay  . Swiss cutting many corners and from January 1 increasing prices even more) ( except jlc, they r worth it). 

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I agree with you on the paper texture dial thing. I was even going to do a post about how I also feel underwhelmed by it. But then I started doing research on how they were made. Wow! All the handcrafted details and attention that goes into making one watch. They have two watchmakers hand assemble each piece. 

I'm looking at a quartz SG and liking the looks. That 9F is amazing 😍!

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There's no shortage of this opinion amongst our community...I see it often but it never sways me

I just chalk it up as a "to each their own" kind of thing... I'm the exact opposite...I've never been underwhelmed by GS (unless we are talking specifically about GS sports models or their bracelet clasps)

I have to constantly talk myself out of buying another one that I won't have wrist time for

There's no other brand I'd want to look at first in the 5-10k range... Omega is my close second 

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The timing of this thread is crazy.

Just ordered my first ever four-figure watch last night. It’s a JDM GS: SBGX295 ordered through Chrono24. My town only has a small GS AD at which GS seems like an afterthought, and they only had pieces outside my budget.

With the exception of Longines (Ultra-Chron or Zulu Time) and one particular wildly expensive Breguet, no other luxury brand speaks to me at all.

That said, while I think the dials are beautiful, the whole “each premium dial tells a profound natural story” thing wears thin quickly.

I imagine I’ll have more to say once I actually have the watch. So far, I wish it didn’t have the date, but still think it’s beautiful. I may need to swap out the strap, but we’ll see.

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TickyBurden

The timing of this thread is crazy.

Just ordered my first ever four-figure watch last night. It’s a JDM GS: SBGX295 ordered through Chrono24. My town only has a small GS AD at which GS seems like an afterthought, and they only had pieces outside my budget.

With the exception of Longines (Ultra-Chron or Zulu Time) and one particular wildly expensive Breguet, no other luxury brand speaks to me at all.

That said, while I think the dials are beautiful, the whole “each premium dial tells a profound natural story” thing wears thin quickly.

I imagine I’ll have more to say once I actually have the watch. So far, I wish it didn’t have the date, but still think it’s beautiful. I may need to swap out the strap, but we’ll see.

I hope you like the new watch once you get hands on. 

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That's funny, I had the exact opposite experience. I remember trying on a Rolex for the first time and thinking, "really? This is what everyone is so hyped about?" It seemed super underwhelming to me. Whereas trying on a Grand Seiko for the first time (the Cherry blossom), it was the first watch that ever truly blew me away. I've always found Rolex looks amazing in pictures and videos and I start to think I want one, but then I try it on and think, meh. Difference in taste I guess. 

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christian7

That's funny, I had the exact opposite experience. I remember trying on a Rolex for the first time and thinking, "really? This is what everyone is so hyped about?" It seemed super underwhelming to me. Whereas trying on a Grand Seiko for the first time (the Cherry blossom), it was the first watch that ever truly blew me away. I've always found Rolex looks amazing in pictures and videos and I start to think I want one, but then I try it on and think, meh. Difference in taste I guess. 

Ditto, when I first saw a Rolex Sub, black dial, no date, I thought it was kind of bland. I respect the watch, but just wouldn't pay the price for it. Now a day/date on the other hand, I think those look top notch.

As every one keeps saying, it's all very relative to each person's taste. But honestly, this is such a good burn: 

Why would I want the dial on my $8k watch to look like a crumpled piece of paper?

I am a GS admirer (possible future owner) myself and that quote actually makes me want to buy a textured dial even more hahaha.

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RandyC

I agree. Some of the dials just felt like a nice Seiko to me and not really a true step up into luxury. I think maybe my personal style is also just a bit too traditional or classic. I love a good guilloche dial for instance (like on a Reverso), but not the GS textures which seem like either wrinkled dials or spray paint dials to me (often in odd colors). 

I really did like the case finishing on the updated 44GS case, but I think you are right that it is hard for that to justify such a huge price premium. The watch I liked most  (SBGW 291) has a closed case back (fine with me but should cost a lot less than a watch with a highly decorated automatic movement and an open case back) and an okay dial but nothing special to me  There was also no bracelet option. I know it is a bit of a dressier option, but I don't want to wear leather on a hot and humid summer day. 

I'm still trying to decide on my future dress watch. Excited to see updated  IWC Portofinos for men that should come out later this year. l am also considering a Reverso and constantly scoping out new steel dress watches between $5-$10k.  The dials on the JLC and IWC watches are far superior to the GS dial in my opinion. I may come back to the SBGW291 again and see how I feel after some time has passed (especially if I can get a discount and find a bracelet that will work with it).  

Like you I have been consistently underwhelmed with GS. 

Visited the GS boutique in NYC and left just shaking my head. Finally found one that I could add to the collection at Watches of Switzerland (a reference made specifically for WoS)...

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@HotWatchChick69 is right that you need to see the dials in sunlight otherwise much of their charm is muted. I preferred getting mine on a strap as I find the GS bracelets really substandard. Also, the cases are a bit thick for a dress watch.

Quite honestly, if I'm looking for a discreet dress watch, I'd prefer to go with a reasonably priced (on a relative basis) independent like Laine. Tortsi Laine,a Finnish watchmaker based in Switzerland, makes fabulous watches with incredible hand-turned guilloche dials and the movements are finely decorated as well...

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Laine Watches - Independent watchmaker in Switzerland

If you are in NYC, Cellini Jewelers carries Laine as well as many other awesome indendent watch brands.

Shop Fine Jewelry & Rare Watches | Cellini Jewelers NYC

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Things that appeal to me most are the  movements (but only really quartz and spring drive), the dial furniture (so precise) and the dials.

agree that some are a bit out there - that’s why I’ve gone for a black GS. I deeply love the pale blue dial but seems a bit whacky for the office - maybe.

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Absolutely nothing wrong with your opinion, nobody has to like a brand like GS just because others are raving fans, same for any brand honestly. 

GS is my first major luxury brand I got into mainly because I lean towards the understated elegance from a brand that's a more 'in the know' versus high profile brands where folks desire the watches... simply because that's what they hear from everyone else, not because of their own watch knowledge. 

That being said, I am now varying up my collection by branching out into more Swiss brands 

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ChronoGuy

Like you I have been consistently underwhelmed with GS. 

Visited the GS boutique in NYC and left just shaking my head. Finally found one that I could add to the collection at Watches of Switzerland (a reference made specifically for WoS)...

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@HotWatchChick69 is right that you need to see the dials in sunlight otherwise much of their charm is muted. I preferred getting mine on a strap as I find the GS bracelets really substandard. Also, the cases are a bit thick for a dress watch.

Quite honestly, if I'm looking for a discreet dress watch, I'd prefer to go with a reasonably priced (on a relative basis) independent like Laine. Tortsi Laine,a Finnish watchmaker based in Switzerland, makes fabulous watches with incredible hand-turned guilloche dials and the movements are finely decorated as well...

Image

Laine Watches - Independent watchmaker in Switzerland

If you are in NYC, Cellini Jewelers carries Laine as well as many other awesome indendent watch brands.

Shop Fine Jewelry & Rare Watches | Cellini Jewelers NYC

Props to your SBGM241, that's currently my most worn watch in my collection these days. 

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