Chronograph Recommendations

Hamilton Chrono

I would like to enter the Hanhart chronographs in the race. Great value for money, historic brand with historic design. For 2000 euros, you have a good selection there (even new).

My personal favourite is the Tachytele, if you want an automatic chronograph. If it can also be hand-wound, the 417 ES 1954 would be right up your alley.

Thanks. Those look great!

Oh man, I probably sent the comment too early.

What also fits the budget perfectly and in my opinion offers a brilliant timeless design is the Junghans Max Bill Chronoscope.

Bauhaus design is a timeless classic and the domed sapphire crystal is vintage.

Another great Junghans design is the Telemeter. It has a similar dial to the Tissot in your post.

I'm curious to hear your opinion on whether the watches have met your taste.

The Hanharts and the Junghans Max Bill certainly do. Not feeling the Junghans Chronoscope at first look.

That Tissot looks gorgeous, I second that

😉You’re g*** damn right!

Look at the Hoglund and Sons Mark2 Chrono mechanical Seagull ST109 movement great watch for the money around $270.00 American micro brand.

Will do.

The bigeye is a very good choice and I would add to the contenders the Mido Multifort Patrimony and the Hamilton American Classic Intra-Matic. Not that I am making it easier for you but you can narrow your options down to 3. Whatever is the final choice I hope you enjoy it

I tend to be indecisive so this will certainly not help!!!!

Of the ones you mention I 2nd the Logines Big Eye. The black version is amazing imo.

Sorry but my indecisive self cannot be more precise than that 🙃

That Telemeter is beautiful 😍

No manual winds? All my recommendations would have been manual winds! (except the Big Eye). And the one below 😁

Speedmaster triple calendar. 3523.80

Automatic but a true chrono movement, not a module. Beautiful sunburst dial in blue (or white). 39mm with a 45mm lug to lug and 50m water resistance. 12mm thick case and 15mm at the highest point of the domed crystal.

Trading right around $2000 USD

https://www.omegawatches.com/media/pdf/watches/product-sheet/us/en-us/35238000-en-us.pdf

...Just no Rolexes 😉

Except for this one...

Great looking Speedmaster...curious why all the $2k and sub-$2k secondary market on these are all from Japan...anything from outside Japan is closer to $3k.

Any risk on the Japan market that they are Chinese knock-offs? How can they be that much cheaper than everywhere else?

I’m not sure what’s up with the Japanese market.

I picked mine up from a known watch dealer in the USA on eBay (with verification) for about $2300- last year.

Victorinox

It is a fun watch for sure but not exactly what I am looking for currently.

Sorry mate, didn’t mean to tempt you there 😉. It is a nuce one though and comfortable on, I’m sure you’ll like it. 👍

Thanks, Craiger.  I appreciate the thoughtful questions/statements.  I'll try to answer as best as I can. 

Q: What are you going to time? 

A: I am purchasing a chronograph because I like the look and the history behind the functionality.  Using your example of cooking roast beef (big thumbs up btw) I rely on temp and feel, not timing as there are many variables at play when it comes to cooking tough cuts of beef.  Using a stop watch to cook a meal is a crutch. I could go on about other tool watches and their intended uses vs actual use cases but I'll stop here.

Q: "You're aware that many/most mechanical chronographs have big thighs? i.e. most are 14mm thick or more. I like women with big thighs. I like thin watches...... [Valjoux 7750 is] an incredible movement but you pay for it and you're going to have a thick watch. Even those of us with thick wrists appreciate thinner watches."

A: I like them thick and thin.  It's about the emotion/reaction the watch evokes in me I guess.   Not overly concerned about cuff issues. I think the Tissot, Longines and Sinn would do well in dress and casual situations. I am trying to build a small collection of benchmark timepieces, by brand or movement.  Based on my current budget, I can swing the Valjoux.

Q: Do you care about Date/Day complications?

A:  Not unless it is a GMT

Q: Does a military watch meet your requirements for "vintage/vintage inspired" or are you looking for classic dress chronographs only? Some military watches are surprisingly subtle and elegant despite being "tool" oriented.

A: I am open to military and dress  "vintage/vintage inspired" or modern.  I am trying to find my way.  

Q: How do you feel about a rotating bezel on a dress-ish watch?

A: Doesn't bother me -- see Sinn 103 above.  I am not looking for a Speedy homage or diver-chrono. 

Q:  There's been lots of good recommendations so far, but they are all over the place philosophically, including many hand wind watches that you discounted in your original ask. So often we come at these things with answers, when the proper approach is more questions. Think about your budget, features, size, functionality, aesthetics, and use parameters first.

A: Cost will be the deciding factor give or take a few dollars.  I don't like manuals -- full stop.  I feel my description, limited as it may seem to you, would rule out the PRX.   I am looking for '30s-'60s inspired chrono. I've provided three examples of watches that I like, which I believe are within the same philosophical area code and my budget (new/grey market/preowned).

My response to the remainder of your post:

Part of my purchasing philosophy is resale and many of the recommended watches are niche brands.  There is a place for them in my collection but I also need to think about the ability to recoup as much money as I can if I sell.  Some won't meet the criteria I think.   Aversion to watch size and thickness is overplayed and a poor social construct IMO.  I am not puritanical about either.  I know what looks and feels good on my wrist. well maybe I do. 

I am looking at the Alpina closely. I admire Hamilton watches but the one I like most -- the Pioneer chrono - is a manual. So it is a no go.

Wasn't looking for a Speedy but I will take a look at this one. Thx.

I hope you have not ruled out moon swatch. I would recommend the Mercury with a new silicone strap. Great daily beater. These watches are more available nowadays.. no more queue at Swatch outlets.

I get the subtle nuance involved with cooking meats etc, but sometimes, when it comes to something like sourdough, it's a science, and it's kneading every half hour for 150 minutes. Full stop. And sometimes you park for longer than an hour. I'm mostly trying to identify the practical moments you'd actually use a chronograph, and for me, though it seems less important for you, it's often an hour plus, which eliminates many chronographs.

The rotating bezel is sometimes a cheat for multi hour timing. Because it's manual wind, it's not on your list, but the Hemel Air League is an example of a watch where if you line the bezel pip up with the hour hand, you can cheat a 30 minute chronograph into timing multiple hours. Hanhart does this as well. Both classic watches. Both manual wind so, nope.

The standard for automatic chronographs is the Valjoux. It can be had for about $2000, your budget, but most are closer to $3500. "I am trying to build a small collection of benchmark timepieces, by brand or movement." This is respectable, and merit worthy. But I suspect you're going to go over budget or, like me, and many others, you'll buy something as a stop gap between what you want and what you're budgeting for.

Automatic chronographs steeped in history and classic in design, and potentially dress watch worthy......

It's hard to look beyond the Junghans. But if you're looking for a sneaky classic, worn by Steve McQueen, and Walter White, with a ton of heritage, and infinitely wearable, for me it would be the Tag Heuer Monaco on bracelet. I generally don't like Tag Heuer watches, most people don't generally like Tags, but the Monaco is so richly steeped in tradition that it gets a pass in my books. Not a dress watch, per se, but could be worn as one if in good nick, and properly strapped. Probably over your budget. Even used they command a buck or two, which fits in with your resell requirements. Spend more now, lose less later? They don't lose much value regardless so it wouldn't be a high risk investment.

It's hard for me to reconcile "budget" with "benchmark..by brand or movement". Sadly, most horologically significant time pieces come at a price, unless you look at Japanese watches, but you're not interested in Seikos either.

The only other watch I would suggest (and why I asked about military inspired watches), though still not a dress watch, but I'm wearing one as I type this (so I'm admittedly biased).... CWC. Clean. Classic. Steeped in history. Not a dress watch but small enough and elegant enough it could be worn in many business casual situations. They very rarely show up used and when they do, they are often listed at more than retail. I never thought I would spend about $1000 on a quartz chronograph. I don't regret owning this watch. It might be one of the cheapest watches I own and I wear it a lot. Not just when cooking Chicago style Italian beef sandwiches....

I also think Chronographs are inherently not "dress watches" which is part of the challenge.

"Aversion to watch size and thickness is overplayed and a poor social construct IMO.  I am not puritanical about either.  I know what looks and feels good on my wrist. well maybe I do." I very much consider watch size when buying a watch. There are many watches that I've known were too small, wanted to like them and bought them anyway, and then sold them quickly after realizing I was right about the size. There are exceptions. But usually after a while you have an idea about what works for you. 1mm can be huge.

Many thanks for your time and response. The Tissot is using a Valjoux A05.231 though I now have many other options to investigate. I own several Seikos so looking to diversify these 5, which will ultimately include a GS. I am going to revisit manuals. There are just too many intriguing examples that were recommended.

Any Sinn chrono is a good choice. The 103 has a classic look. This is my 356 that is a very well made watch. I have 7 chronographs. The Sinn and my Zenith Rainbow Flyback are my favorites.

(PS - I just ordered a Glycene Combat Chronograph that should arrive in a few days, and will do a review for WC).

Thanks, Bill. Great looking watches. That Zenith is next level!