Watches in the Wild (Burying the Lede, Volume 53)

Disclaimer: Lol.

This is the fifty first in a semi-regular digest of cool watches I happened to see this week.

Past posts in this series have been hashtagged to #watchesinthewild

As always, my general policy is that I never ask for wrist shots (because approaching strangers and distant acquaintances to talk about watches is already weird enough) so all pictures below are sourced from the internet. People are mostly cool, I try not to annoy them.

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Last winter, in Northern California, we joked about the triple-demic, a beautifully dystopian cocktail of COVID, influenza, and RSV.  Nothing super scary for most folks, but perhaps a touch more danger for the little ones.  Still, more inconvenience not danger.

My family, being the hygienic people we are, managed to dodge all of it.  We washed hands, masked up as necessary, took all the necessary vitamins and outsmarted illness left and right.  I'm just better right?

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For the past two months, I and my entire family have been struck down with each of the members of the triple-demic in a never ending panoply of sick day misery.  Except let's add a fourth horseman to the Diet Rite Cola and Southern Comfort cocktail of my college hangovers, rotavirus picked up from my children and which according to the CDC is transmitted primarily through the (and I quote) "fecal-oral route."

Whatever anyone tells you, let it be known that parenting is incredibly dignified.

Anyway, being sick means not much watch spotting, though if you know me at all, I still did manage to get up to some real watch shenanigans.

First a couple of respots of references that I've discussed before.

SuperOcean Heritage B20 in Gold

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Seen on the wrist of a gentleman going down my office elevator.  I think he might have been the owner of the building.

I am pretty sure they only make the rose SuperOcean Heritage in the 42mm size but the somewhat slabby case sides in red gold make this thing look gigantic.  It might as well have been fifty mm, because it's all wrist presence.

Omega Constellation two tone

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On an older gentleman.  Was this a super popular watch back in the 90s?  I see a lot of them out there but almost exclusively on men in their 60s.

Nomos Club Campus

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Farmer's market spot, the same gentleman from some months ago.  I tried to talk to him again and failed.  

Sigh.

Tank Solo Mechanical on bracelet

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Spotted at a Thai restaurant.  Tried for a conversation again but was shot down.

Am I losing my touch?

Seiko 5 Shadow on bund strap

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Seen at my favorite local deli.  I asked about it and he replied that it was stock but he threw it into a bund strap.  It looked good!

And some longer notes....

Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas

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Seen on the wrist of a mom at gymnastics.  No conversation.

Somehow, I expect that I will get flak for highlighting a quartz women's watch first. If I cared about such things.

I often reflect on the dirtiness of the term "fashion watch" among modern collectors.  Our Lady of Perpetual Hot Takes,  the-YouTuber-formerly-known-as-Watch-Gringa, singled out fashion watches as number one on her list of watches to avoid.  I don't mean to call Brittany Pierce out specifically, it's a common prejudice among watch types and is one of those rallying points that gets plenty of cheap applause.

I am generally of the opinion that almost all watches, aside from an atomic Casio, fail in some respect on what is the functional purpose of a watch, which is to tell the time as accurately as possible. Watches may have started as functional objects once upon a time but have evolved into design objects.  That is, Andy Warhol was right and we don't wear a watch to tell the time.  We wear thee tiny Rube Goldberg machines because they are the thing to wear.

And so we come to Bulgari, a jewelry house with horological aspirations and some truly ground breaking watches in the Octo Roma and Octo Finissimo. But instead of focusing on these watch nerd appropriate pieces, I'm going to talk about a quartz women's watch.

The history of the Serpenti Tubogas dates back to 1948 (so pre Submariner for those of you counting) when designers at Bulgari saw a coiled gas pipe and thought there's a cool industrial organic look. There's old symbology here.  Take a look at old Hellenistic statues of Aphrodite, Baroque depictions of Cleopatra, or the snake ring that Albert gave Victoria on their marriage.  Snakes coiled around women's arms are a thing.

I'm not certain when the evolution from bracelet to watch came along, but what is a watch but a mechanical time telling bracelet?

It is not what appeals to me in watches (not at all).  But there's underappreciated heritage and history here and attention ought to be paid.  I'm glad I saw it.

Jack Mason Strat-O-Timer "Dark Night"

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A short term loan from the most gentlemanly Texan I know @valleykilmers

I've talked about this watch at length before but having it on wrist for two weeks has been eye opening.  I've never been the sort of person to pass this off as a GMT MAster II knock off but even now as I search for Rolex Batman on Google, this pops up in the Shopping tab as an alternative.

And yet, this feels all together different to me on wrist.

The GMT Master II, to me, is modern Rolex maximalism.  Everything is dialed up to 11, from the Super case to the deeply engraved ceramic bezel, to the cold blue lume.  It is a very good watch, no doubt, but it is a fundamentally modern one.

The Strat-o-Timer is vintage to the core with the cushion case, sloped green lume markers and the faded indigo and black bezel.  In many respects, I get a beautiful blend of vintage Seiko, Zodiac, and Longines from the dial and case combination with all of the creature comforts of modern watch making (on the fly adjustments, excellent winding feel, great on wrist balance, and no band stretch).  This is a great watch, maybe the best microbrand watch release of the past five years and blows away watches that are 3x the entry price (looking at you Seiko).

Oh and one more thing.  By far the best part of this watch was that it is owned someone on WatchCrunch who started out as an internet person to jaw with and may very well end up being a real life watch friend.  So maybe if you're looking for new year's resolutions, here's one for the road.  Go make a real deal (not completely online) watch friend to talk to and enjoy watch with,.  That's worth more than any watch I can think of.  #gooutsideandtouchgrass.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT Chronograph (NWA)

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And the best (at least to me) for last.

I could talk about this watch for days.  About how the size specs really underrate just how comfortable this watch is on wrist.  About how much nicer I find it than the last Royal Oak I had on wrist.  About how cool I think annual calendars are and how much cooler an annual calendar chronograph is.  About how much I like panda dials, but slightly offbeat ones.  About how I've been looking at Parmigiani Fleurier for the better part of two years and trying to figure out which of their collection might fit into MY collection.  About how if you're into the independents like Habring, Parmigiani, or Moser, this might be the time to enter the market because secondary market prices have been absolutely smashed.

But that's all kinda boring.  Don't be a nerd.  

Instead, I want to talk about why I buy watches and why I keep them around.  I do have an impulsive streak in my purchasing (as evidenced by my sudden charitable raffles and auctions), but ultimately watch purchases to me are fundamentally emotional.  I don't tend to keep watches for any extended period of time unless there are emotions and experiences attached to them.  I'm a sucker for the milestone watch, especially one that everyone looks at and mostly shrugs at (especially my wife).  There's only meaning to me here/

So what occasion did I mark this time?  Ten years of being my own boss.  Ten year proving that my company had a right to survive in an intensely competitive industry.  Ten years of sleepless nights and stomach acid.  Ten years of dreams dashed and then reborn.  Ten years of remembering that maybe the greatest single ingredient to professional success is simply being too stupid to quit.

As for the next ten years, who knows?  Whenever I'm tempted to plan too far ahead in the future, I am reminded of the great biblical scholar Woody Allen and his dissertation on Second Hesitations.

"Whenever you want to make God laugh, tell him your plans."

And so, not too many plans, at least not today. But a watch for the milestone.  And for the journey ahead.

Have a wonderful Christmas and a happy New Year everyone!  I'll see you all in 2024.

What cool watches did you see this week?

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I really need to get out more.

If I saw that Serpenti, I think I'd die. It's more of a statement piece than a lot of the watches we here on the Crunch obsess over.

As always, appreciate the write up.

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Oh man that PF is awesome. Looks absolutely perfect and can’t wait to see it in the metal next time. Besides celebrating 10 years of being THE man, you can celebrate surviving whatever was contracted via the “fecal-oral route”. As a fellow parent, I can empathize, though my kids are a little older now and I’m dealing with currently is the beginnings of teenage years. 😂

Happy holidays to you and yours as well. See you in 2024, maybe with my last 2023 acquisition.

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UnholiestJedi

I really need to get out more.

If I saw that Serpenti, I think I'd die. It's more of a statement piece than a lot of the watches we here on the Crunch obsess over.

As always, appreciate the write up.

100% (to it being a statement piece not you needing to get out more).

The design has real heritage to it and I think there's something worth highlighting there!

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SpecKTator

Oh man that PF is awesome. Looks absolutely perfect and can’t wait to see it in the metal next time. Besides celebrating 10 years of being THE man, you can celebrate surviving whatever was contracted via the “fecal-oral route”. As a fellow parent, I can empathize, though my kids are a little older now and I’m dealing with currently is the beginnings of teenage years. 😂

Happy holidays to you and yours as well. See you in 2024, maybe with my last 2023 acquisition.

Yeah man, kids are petri dishes and whenever the biological warfare stage ends, we will start up in the psychological. 🙄🙄🙄

I'm super pumped to see your newest watch and won't spoil it here! To a great 2024!

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Thanks for a good read, merry Christmas and congrats on your 10 yr hard fought milestone 👏🏻👏🏻

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Bayl61

Thanks for a good read, merry Christmas and congrats on your 10 yr hard fought milestone 👏🏻👏🏻

Thank you! It's been a long decade....and a short one too!

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Cheers to the new watch a new fellow watch nerd friend.

...remembering that maybe the greatest single ingredient to professional success is simply being too stupid to quit.

I relate to this on so many levels and there is nothing like the agony and thrill of owning your own business of any kind be it medical, financial, or service. Congratulations on the new watch but even more to your success in the future.

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Sweet watch super cool and great design …!!!

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valleykilmers

Cheers to the new watch a new fellow watch nerd friend.

...remembering that maybe the greatest single ingredient to professional success is simply being too stupid to quit.

I relate to this on so many levels and there is nothing like the agony and thrill of owning your own business of any kind be it medical, financial, or service. Congratulations on the new watch but even more to your success in the future.

What up fellow nerd and thanks! It's a peculiar affliction we share and it's always nice to not do it alone.

You also being a small business owner can probably relate.....at some point, it stops being about the money and more about proving to yourself that you actually can do what you think you can do.

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DARKELF

Sweet watch super cool and great design …!!!

Thanks! Parmigiani is one of those brands that I've spent years lusting after and really just searching for the right one for me at the right price. This one just kinda fell into my lap and I couldn't be more pleased.

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That Parmigiani is a stunner 🤩

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Watchgeekery

That Parmigiani is a stunner 🤩

I think of it as the sportiest PF ever made and I adore it. I'd been eyeing a Tonda PF chronograph for a while, but somehow I like the text and big date (for all the annoyances that complication has) instead of the new logo and 4:30 date.

An off beat watch for my offbeat personality 😉

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Beautiful watch! Can't wait to borrow it! Ha!

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Mr.Dee.Bater

Beautiful watch! Can't wait to borrow it! Ha!

I am definitely going to want some time with it first....but then I'll swap you for your GS SBGK015!

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UnholiestJedi

I really need to get out more.

If I saw that Serpenti, I think I'd die. It's more of a statement piece than a lot of the watches we here on the Crunch obsess over.

As always, appreciate the write up.

My wife collects serpent jewelry and has been eyeing that Bulgari for three years now. Gulp!

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Glad you guys recovered from the triple threat. I unfortunately experienced it as well with me first getting COVID, then the wife, and now my daughter has a fever but is so far negative. I'm hoping it's a run of the mill virus.

Anyway, nice watch spotting! How did your failed attempts at chatting up the watch owners go? Did you say hi first? Did you lead with "nice watch?"

Congeats on the pick up! Love the dial as it's busier (I like busy) than the usual plain guilloché dials. PF is a brand I admire, but I could never find the perfect one for me. The hunt continues.

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Cool post.

One of the best things about being into watches is the people and those conversations that start with 'Nice watch! Is that a (XXXX)? ... I'm Anthony by the way' are always gold. I've never thought it odd and on the rare occasions that I'm not the instigator it's been really good to talk with a fellow traveller.

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Beanhead

Glad you guys recovered from the triple threat. I unfortunately experienced it as well with me first getting COVID, then the wife, and now my daughter has a fever but is so far negative. I'm hoping it's a run of the mill virus.

Anyway, nice watch spotting! How did your failed attempts at chatting up the watch owners go? Did you say hi first? Did you lead with "nice watch?"

Congeats on the pick up! Love the dial as it's busier (I like busy) than the usual plain guilloché dials. PF is a brand I admire, but I could never find the perfect one for me. The hunt continues.

Oh man, I have so many failed watch chats it's hard to keep track of them. But mostly I find that.

  1. If I can identify the watch

  2. I am wearing a somewhat watch nerdy watch myself

I can be pretty successful with "Hey is that a Nomos Club Campus?" Or some such.

Unless it's a Rolex, then it's like a 90% failure rate.

I was in the same boat as you regarding PF. Clearly master movement makers and like you, I don't mind a dial with some interesting visuals and a touch of busy-ness. But a specific model? Hard to say.

I was originally into the Tonda PF line, particularly the micro rotor or the rattrapante but somehow I found the dials too spare and never really loved that logo.

But these slightly older models? I mean what dress watch brand decides to make a big date/annual calendar/Chronograph sports watch?

They're complete oddballs and I love them.

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Hodonkee

Cool post.

One of the best things about being into watches is the people and those conversations that start with 'Nice watch! Is that a (XXXX)? ... I'm Anthony by the way' are always gold. I've never thought it odd and on the rare occasions that I'm not the instigator it's been really good to talk with a fellow traveller.

I always try and chat with someone who has a cool watch on. Most of the fun is chatting with a fellow enthusiast!

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Love the Tonda ❤. I’m guessing by the happy tone of this post, you are feeling better finally? On the upswing at least?

Wish you could’ve talked to Serpentti lady. I’d have walked on lava to hear what this person talks like. My guess is something like “Anna Delvey” in a made up accent of Russian and German.

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And I’d love for my wife to sport a crazy Serpentti for our (sadly rare) date nights as well. 😃

My sighting :

One of my nurse colleagues had on a ladies Seamaster with a MOP dial.

Quite a lovely watch and she was happy when I asked her about it.

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As one of the only non Apple Watch nurses I’ve seen - I salute you Erin!

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Edge168n

Oh man, I have so many failed watch chats it's hard to keep track of them. But mostly I find that.

  1. If I can identify the watch

  2. I am wearing a somewhat watch nerdy watch myself

I can be pretty successful with "Hey is that a Nomos Club Campus?" Or some such.

Unless it's a Rolex, then it's like a 90% failure rate.

I was in the same boat as you regarding PF. Clearly master movement makers and like you, I don't mind a dial with some interesting visuals and a touch of busy-ness. But a specific model? Hard to say.

I was originally into the Tonda PF line, particularly the micro rotor or the rattrapante but somehow I found the dials too spare and never really loved that logo.

But these slightly older models? I mean what dress watch brand decides to make a big date/annual calendar/Chronograph sports watch?

They're complete oddballs and I love them.

Ah it's an older model. No wonder, I haven't seen this before. It's nice! I have my eye on a few older pateks that are AC chronos,like this 5960P. Sporty, slightly dressy. But doesn't have a guilloché dial, which I love.

I'll show you my new UJ that I'll get very soon. Love the guilloché on it.

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Fieldwalker

Love the Tonda ❤. I’m guessing by the happy tone of this post, you are feeling better finally? On the upswing at least?

Wish you could’ve talked to Serpentti lady. I’d have walked on lava to hear what this person talks like. My guess is something like “Anna Delvey” in a made up accent of Russian and German.

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And I’d love for my wife to sport a crazy Serpentti for our (sadly rare) date nights as well. 😃

My sighting :

One of my nurse colleagues had on a ladies Seamaster with a MOP dial.

Quite a lovely watch and she was happy when I asked her about it.

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As one of the only non Apple Watch nurses I’ve seen - I salute you Erin!

I am well! Mostly. The littlest one is teething so sleep is a little dearer than I'd like right now.

The only reason I didn't talk to Seprenro lady was because she was on the phone. Sadly nothing to report....a bog standard no accent Northern Californian accent!

Nice spot on the AT!

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Beanhead

Ah it's an older model. No wonder, I haven't seen this before. It's nice! I have my eye on a few older pateks that are AC chronos,like this 5960P. Sporty, slightly dressy. But doesn't have a guilloché dial, which I love.

I'll show you my new UJ that I'll get very soon. Love the guilloché on it.

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Yeah, it was a 2020 release...just before Guido Terreni so it is definitely transitional as these models go. The case doesn't have he crazy horn lugs (which I really like) but they do the full name instead of the logo.

Are you me? I was just thinking that might be the only Patek I could see by myself buying but it lacks a bit of pizzazz.

New watch! Pics please!

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Edge168n

Yeah, it was a 2020 release...just before Guido Terreni so it is definitely transitional as these models go. The case doesn't have he crazy horn lugs (which I really like) but they do the full name instead of the logo.

Are you me? I was just thinking that might be the only Patek I could see by myself buying but it lacks a bit of pizzazz.

New watch! Pics please!

Oh yeah, it does have the full name. I find the current models nice, but too plain Jane.

Haha. I don't own a patek currently and am searching through their old models to find one I love.

I like this as well (5170g), but again something is missing... I love the Breguet numerals, the pulsometer.

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Or this, cleaner dial without the pulsometer.

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Beanhead

Oh yeah, it does have the full name. I find the current models nice, but too plain Jane.

Haha. I don't own a patek currently and am searching through their old models to find one I love.

I like this as well (5170g), but again something is missing... I love the Breguet numerals, the pulsometer.

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Or this, cleaner dial without the pulsometer.

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See, I find these Patek chronos a bit....unbalanced, almost as though the movement is too small for the case they chose.

I am sure critique of any Patek as poorly designed outs me as a Philistine, of course, but if we're going to go down the route of a busy dial two register chronograph, I greatly prefer the aesthetics of the cal 130 with the more centered subdials.

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Somehow the 5170 looks like a disapproving school teacher looking over her glasses at me.

Actually if we're going down the route of other modern pateks I don't mind, the 5924 has always been a looker

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Edge168n

See, I find these Patek chronos a bit....unbalanced, almost as though the movement is too small for the case they chose.

I am sure critique of any Patek as poorly designed outs me as a Philistine, of course, but if we're going to go down the route of a busy dial two register chronograph, I greatly prefer the aesthetics of the cal 130 with the more centered subdials.

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Somehow the 5170 looks like a disapproving school teacher looking over her glasses at me.

Actually if we're going down the route of other modern pateks I don't mind, the 5924 has always been a looker

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Hah! Disapproving school teacher. Yeah, I'm not completely sold, so haven't been super keen.

The 130 and 530 you shared, which is a beautiful specimen, is ridiculous level of money. They need to do a reissue of them and I'll be there in a heart beat. I do like the symmetry of the sub dials being aligned.

Collectors love the 5070, but I've found the dial to be way to squished in looking. The movement is the amazing Lemania 2310, but as you alluded to before the movement drives the sub dial placement and this doesn't look great.

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Beanhead

Hah! Disapproving school teacher. Yeah, I'm not completely sold, so haven't been super keen.

The 130 and 530 you shared, which is a beautiful specimen, is ridiculous level of money. They need to do a reissue of them and I'll be there in a heart beat. I do like the symmetry of the sub dials being aligned.

Collectors love the 5070, but I've found the dial to be way to squished in looking. The movement is the amazing Lemania 2310, but as you alluded to before the movement drives the sub dial placement and this doesn't look great.

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The 130 and 530 you shared, which is a beautiful specimen, is ridiculous level of money.

Unattainable as it were. I imagine that even if I had a spare $250k around, establishing provenance would be basically impossible.

As for the 5070?

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Edge168n

The 130 and 530 you shared, which is a beautiful specimen, is ridiculous level of money.

Unattainable as it were. I imagine that even if I had a spare $250k around, establishing provenance would be basically impossible.

As for the 5070?

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That's so good 🤣😂

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Thanks for the feature! I just love seeing the community lend watches to one another. So fun. It's tough to tell in the photo, but I believe the watch shown is the limited edition "Joker"! Best way to tell is if you see the number on the caseback! Either way, love to more Strat-o-timers out there!