And the first shoe drops from the Rolex/Bucherer news

I'm sure there is more to come.

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Rolex is 50% of WoS’s sales.

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Kclouis

Rolex is 50% of WoS’s sales.

I bet it's even worse than that. How much traffic do you suppose came from folks walking in wanting a Rolex and leaving with something else?

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Rolex be like:

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Edge168n

I bet it's even worse than that. How much traffic do you suppose came from folks walking in wanting a Rolex and leaving with something else?

Swatch Group to buy WoS at fire sale prices.

I jest, but am I really joking?

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SpecKTator

Rolex be like:

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No one asked for my opinion, but I think this acquisition is going to be a serious shit show for Rolex. I think the distance from the customers imposed by the ADs is a large part of the reason why customers tolerate the lack of in store stock.

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Edge168n

No one asked for my opinion, but I think this acquisition is going to be a serious shit show for Rolex. I think the distance from the customers imposed by the ADs is a large part of the reason why customers tolerate the lack of in store stock.

“You don’t have this watch because Rolex didn’t send you any? Aren’t you guys Rolex?”

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Edge168n

No one asked for my opinion, but I think this acquisition is going to be a serious shit show for Rolex. I think the distance from the customers imposed by the ADs is a large part of the reason why customers tolerate the lack of in store stock.

Interesting take. Does Rolex actually care about customers though? Maybe just the repeat whales.

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Kclouis

Swatch Group to buy WoS at fire sale prices.

I jest, but am I really joking?

Increased verticalization is definitely something all these guys want. They almost certainly want to capture the 30-35% spread they get from selling things to the ADs.

But the example of Richemont to me suggests it isn't all roses...there's a lot of fixed costs folks take on to do retail right (didn't Richemont spend like $1B to get boutiques on Bond Street?).

It can be more profit dollars in total, in the same way that McDonald's owning all its restaurants would be more profit dollars in total. But gosh, cashing the franchisee check is a heck of a lot easier than managing a bunch of retail employees.

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Kclouis

“You don’t have this watch because Rolex didn’t send you any? Aren’t you guys Rolex?”

🎯🎯🎯

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SpecKTator

Interesting take. Does Rolex actually care about customers though? Maybe just the repeat whales.

This is the right question. But if they only care about the repeat whales....why have a big store footprint in the first place? Why have the hassle of dealing with other brands?

I think Rolex's power is derived from its ubiquity as a sign of luxury. Not just celebrities or royalty, but relatively normal highly accomplished people. If they don't have that....then I don't think their business is nearly as strong because then it competes against the very highest end of the luxury players (Patek, Audemars, VC) who have much more power in that whale market.

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Edge168n

This is the right question. But if they only care about the repeat whales....why have a big store footprint in the first place? Why have the hassle of dealing with other brands?

I think Rolex's power is derived from its ubiquity as a sign of luxury. Not just celebrities or royalty, but relatively normal highly accomplished people. If they don't have that....then I don't think their business is nearly as strong because then it competes against the very highest end of the luxury players (Patek, Audemars, VC) who have much more power in that whale market.

It’s a place to capture and up sell whales. I’m no economist but it sounds like a broader strategy at play here where Rolex wants to control all aspects of sales. Think about the Rolex pre-owned program. Next up is raising their prices even more and spinning it as delivering a better more secure customer service environment.

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I woke up and read it on Yahoo Finance and it melted my face.

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Guess this answers my question of which AD to start building a relationship with...

I guess it means Rolex will make more profit for sales through the Bucherer channel. Cutting out the retail middleman.

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SpecKTator

It’s a place to capture and up sell whales. I’m no economist but it sounds like a broader strategy at play here where Rolex wants to control all aspects of sales. Think about the Rolex pre-owned program. Next up is raising their prices even more and spinning it as delivering a better more secure customer service environment.

I am reminded of a conversation I had at an investor day with a senior executive at Tiffany (back when it was independent). He asked me what I thought the highest revenue grossing product in the stores was.

I said probably one of the simple engagement rings. High enough ASP ($5K or whatever) and some volume.

He told me is was the little "return to Tiffany" charms you can buy on bracelet or necklaces for $200 a piece. He told me that luxury is a pyramid of sales. The products nearer the bottom gross so much more than the products at the top.

I don't know if it's universally true, but it's always stuck in my head as a data point.

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Rolexahoma

I woke up and read it on Yahoo Finance and it melted my face.

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Rolex: You'll still get your allocation.

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Mr.Dee.Bater

You know, the best explanation for why companies should just focus on what they're already good at I heard from my value investing prof. This was back in the day of Netflix and Blockbuster. Netflix was still sending out DVDs by mail, and were just starting to talk about streaming.

And a classmate said, derisively, "I don't understand why Blockbuster doesn't just shift to mailing DVDs and doing streaming." You know, he said it like...

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And the prof was like, "Well, that would be like your mom asking you..."

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Companies are good at what they're good at. In the same way you're good at what you're good at, and your brother is good at what he's good at. It's in the DNA. And DNA doesn't change - typically when it does, it ends with the death of the organism, as that's typically called "cancer."

He then went on to talk about why value investors look for management teams who understand deeply what the source of their company's true profitability is, and stick to those core competencies come hell or high water.

This is one of those cases where, I suspect, you have a management team that is losing sight of what makes their company truly profitable. Maybe reaching for a bonus or something? Absolutely nuts.

They could always turn into mutants…(queue X-Men cartoon music)

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BillableHours

It’s probably a good time to buy some shares of WoS. they’re a solid business that will recuperate either through a buy out or just naturally after this news cycle ends. In fact i’m going to look into that now…

Anyone got an in with WallStreetBets 😂

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celinesimon

Here's the official statement from WoS (if anyone is interested):

25 August 2023

Watches of Switzerland Group PLC

The Watches of Switzerland notes the announcement of the acquisition of Rolex SA of Bucherer SA and comments as follows:

 Bucherer is a long-standing retail partner of Rolex, one of the largest globally (alongside The Watches of Switzerland Group) and the major retailer in the important Swiss market.  Mr Jorg G Bucherer is 86 years old and is the grandson of the founder Carl F Bucherer.  The co-operation and partnership between Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex and Carl F Bucherer is chronicled in the official Rolex history (from 1924).

Mr Bucherer has no family succession and his wishes are to form a legacy foundation with the proceeds of this transaction.

·     This is not a strategic move into retail by Rolex.  This is the best-judged reaction to the succession challenges of Bucherer SA.

·     There will be no operational involvement by Rolex in the Bucherer business.

·     Rolex will appoint non-executive Board members.

·    There will be no change in the Rolex processes of product allocation or distribution developments as a consequence of this acquisition.

All of the above is reviewed and confirmed by the highest level of Rolex management at Rolex HQ in Geneve and locally in the UK and US.

I can’t believe this isn’t playing out like an episode of Succession. You’re telling me good ole Jorg didn’t sire some Bucherers…legitimate or not?

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celinesimon

“We congratulate Rolex on this purchase, which was absolutely predictable and is also in the interest of the Swiss watch industry”

Full statement here: https://www.watchpro.com/swatch-group-welcomes-rolex-acquisition-of-bucherer/

C-O-N-spiracy…points to anyone who gets the reference.

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Not my Pope not my religion, good luck 🤞

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Sluggo

Sometimes when you play too hard to get...some folks give up on wanting you.

For me? I'm never standing in line or waiting for anything. The latest I-Phone, a Disneyland ride, a Rolex etc., etc..

So you’re a Genie+ guy 🤣

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watch_i_wear

Predictable? Just like how they predicted they would have millions of over produced watches sitting on retailer's shelves and they had to buy those back? How they don't have the slightest idea what customers really wanted? Over the years I have come to realize non of these so called industry experts had any pulse on the business at all, they just needed to hit the quarterly quotas, just a bunch of short sighted business execs who probably don't even have a passion for watches. Predict? Yeah right, they can't even predict what they are having for lunch. 😂

Predictable…like the fake Speedy inside job that sold for millions at auction. Indeed. 🤣

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Fieldwalker

Wow!

This whole thread is fascinating reading, cheers @Edge168n @Mr.Dee.Bater @celinesimon and all who've contributed to the convo.

If you subbed in almost any other company names, I'd fall asleep faster than if I was on a Propofol drip. But instead you had my rapt attention. Succession 2 - 'the watch families'.

Thanks for explaining all the intrigue everyone!

Now that…I would pay money to…um, Watch.

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Great discussion.

I wonder now if owners of vintage Bucherer watches will now try to sell them as Rolex the way every cheap Vantage is a "Hamilton"?

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You buy a Rolex from Bucherer - Rolex makes more profit. You buy an Omega from Bucherer… Rolex makes money from that too!

It’s a class move.

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Aurelian

Great discussion.

I wonder now if owners of vintage Bucherer watches will now try to sell them as Rolex the way every cheap Vantage is a "Hamilton"?

As far as I know, Carl F Bucherer, the watch maker, is NOT being sold. So the discerning buyer can say that it came from the cadet branch watchmaker side not the Bucherer retail side.

Now, my dad wears an old Tourneau. Tourneau bought by Bucherer, Bucherer bought by Rolex. Unbroken lineage baby! I should get that sucker on the market.

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UnsignedCrown

I don't know how worried or excited I can really get. I mean sure the market is going to react somehow, as it did, but I'm quite confident that it's all purely speculation and for all we know WoS may be just fine in the end.

I equally know f@ck all (obviously) but I don't think much is going to change in the foreseeable future. Rolex doesn't strike me as the sort of company to implement change quickly, they may be unstoppable but move like a tectonic plate, i.e. very slowly. Hell, it might have been a buy just to make sure nothing much changes. If I was them I would let Bucherer do as they have and just keep an eye out that no funny business is going on and that watches actually reach customers quickly which is probably easier if you own the thing. Sooner or later "getting the call" won't be as cool and people will move on, big time. And of course be ready when the time comes to make a bigger move.

Bucherer was already entangled with Rolex in all sorts of ways and probably their biggest client, no? With new ownership comes uncertainty, that is unless you become the new ownership. And it fits nicely with the long term goal of taking over the watch world (and eventually the actual world I suppose 😜).

I mean, none of us know anything but this feels consistent with two things that Rolex has done forever.

  1. Rolex wants to control their retail experiences more. I've heard tales about how authorized dealers have lost allocations and Rolex concessions when they designed a shop window poorly. Woe betide any AD who puts Omega (or even jewelery) in the same show window as a Rolex.

  2. Rolex wants to capture more value from their watches

I don't know how that doesn't result in either long term reduces allocations to competitor chains OR decreased margins on those allocations.

One man's opinion.

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Rolex is the Apple (or Tesla) of the watch world: Customer hostile, but aspirational mass-market luxury to the mainstream casual consumer.

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Edge168n

I mean, none of us know anything but this feels consistent with two things that Rolex has done forever.

  1. Rolex wants to control their retail experiences more. I've heard tales about how authorized dealers have lost allocations and Rolex concessions when they designed a shop window poorly. Woe betide any AD who puts Omega (or even jewelery) in the same show window as a Rolex.

  2. Rolex wants to capture more value from their watches

I don't know how that doesn't result in either long term reduces allocations to competitor chains OR decreased margins on those allocations.

One man's opinion.

True, but as you say they have been saying "You will put us in prime position in your store and next to Patek Philippe or nobody" for a good while now. They had enough leverage over the ADs regardless of acquisition.

I do believe that the competitors will be allocated fewer of the hot models such as the Daytonas and beverage GMTs, especially in steel. But a time where many Rolex watches sit in shops for a while, ready to be bought, will return. Well, at least I think it will because one other thing Rolex has been doing for a good while is growing in presence, status, market share etc. A Datejust or Submariner sold at a competitor means one less Omega sold there and one more person suckered into the Rolex brand. Ensures their status as an attainable product worth aspiring to. I just can't imagine they would pick higher margins over sticking it to the competing watch brands even harder.

If they decide to expand Bucherer to a point where other retailers are in not necessary anymore, i.e. Bucherer can sell as many Datejusts as Rolex can make/allocate for that particular market, then perhaps the allocation trouble will become more serious. I doubt we're anywhere near that, hell, I doubt that I'll live long enough to see that happen.

For now I choose to be optimistic and believe that Rolex did this because they value a stable network of retailers and actually want steady supply, i.e. bring their watches to the end consumer. In other words, I choose to believe they care, at least a tiny little bit. 🙄😂 foolish I know...