Why so few watches in the ~£5k bracket?
I've got one of those first world problems we all suffer from so looking to consult with the collective wisdom of the Crunch community.
I'm looking to celebrate a work thing with a new watch. My 'comfort zone' for watch buying has usually been ~£1-2k (lots of Longines and Hamilton in my collection) but I've been known to pick up the occasional Tudor or lower-end HAQ GS. This time I'm looking up to £5k (more comfortable in the ~£3-4k region for something I can wear without too much concern) though this is a pretty famously sparsely-populated part of the watch world.
There's no particular type, design or marque in mind, and no particular desire for any complications. I tend to favour slim (<12mm depth) three-handers, I prefer a L2L under 48mm and favour a bracelet over anything else. Also, I'd like this to feel like an occasion given I'm trying to mark a milestone so I don't want to go vintage or second-hand and get into any drama or disappointments. It would be nice to go to a boutique/AD and do this in person, picking up a brand new watch with all attendant ceremony and celebration.
There's not much in the running from my POV: A couple of Grand Seiko's Elegance and Heritage models catch my eye (SBGW281 and SBGW291 are appealing) and I'm toying with an Omega Railmaster (220.10.38.20.01.001). I'm somewhat interested in the Tudor BB54 and Pelagos 39 and there are more than a few Nomos in this ballpark but nothing that jumps out at me (and I've repeatedly failed to buy a Nomos due to their long lugs). I like the Tag Heuer Glassbox, though it's a little over-budget, and I'm not sure I like it to the tune of the full asking price. Similarly, I want to avoid microbrands or micro-adjacent since I can't try before I buy.
So the trouble is I'm a bit meh on all of these and I see two options: hold fire for another 2/3 years, build the bankroll and look to something I am unequivocally excited about: GS Omiwatari, Rolex Explorer 1, Blancpain Bathyscaphe 38mm, Zenith Chronomaster 38mm... Or, have I somehow overlooked some absolute gems in the £3-5k price range?
Watch obsessive who believes smaller and cleaner trumps bigger and flashier. Much first hand love for Tudor, Grand Seiko, Longines, Oris, Hamilton, etc. while pining from afar for Rolex, Patek, VC, et...
Gosh, maybe get something cheap and fun to scratch the itch and save up for the ones your really want.
My solution was to look to vintage. You really need to do more research, but that's kinda the fun of it for me - makes the chase even sweeter.
I picked up a Baume & Mercier Clifton Moonphase 5 day watch that is quite dressy was just a little over 6k cad with courtesy discount and 13% HST, could be cheaper if you shop around for a better deal than I, since I special ordered the watch. You might check out Montblanc also. B&M Riviera models are bracelet watches also gaining some traction according to my ad.
Gosh, maybe get something cheap and fun to scratch the itch and save up for the ones your really want.
Bro, if I wanted a measured, constructive answer you think I'd have posted on the Crunch!? Nah, just kidding, I'm leaning to cooling my jets and getting a grail. Just wanted to see if anyone could name a winner that I'm overlooking somehow... (He said, desperately).
Probably not what you're after but Christopher Ward Belcanto would be my pick.
Bro, if I wanted a measured, constructive answer you think I'd have posted on the Crunch!? Nah, just kidding, I'm leaning to cooling my jets and getting a grail. Just wanted to see if anyone could name a winner that I'm overlooking somehow... (He said, desperately).
If I had $5k burning a hole in my pocket…
https://www.jomashop.com/omega-watch-220-10-38-20-03-001.html
If I had $5k burning a hole in my pocket…
https://www.jomashop.com/omega-watch-220-10-38-20-03-001.html
My man! Now you're enabling! However, I have a bone to pick with the ATs inverted handset. The arrow belongs on the hour hand, people! THE HOUR HAND!
Have you looked at the 400 calibers from Oris? I know some people think the increase in price is too aggressive, but they seem to be great movements. 5 day power reserve good level of antimagnetic though not on the level of Omega, which are off the charts at 15000 gause. Though the 400 caliber are not COSC certified Oris quotes better than COSC accuracy on their website. Plus you get the 10 year warranty and service intervals. Oris is also a brand you not going to pay full price for even at a AD. You should be able to easily get a discount on them. I have some AD's immediately tell me they will discount Oris before I even ask to see anything in the case. I do not think this is because they are bad quality but just not a popular brand among people outside of watch enthusiasts. Good Luck with your decision and know no matter path you end up taking with what you are considering you are going to end up with a great watch.
My man! Now you're enabling! However, I have a bone to pick with the ATs inverted handset. The arrow belongs on the hour hand, people! THE HOUR HAND!
https://www.jomashop.com/omega-watch-233-32-41-21-01-002.html
This one has the correct handset
If you order the watch from a professional dealer on Chrono24 (they're typically ADs), then you'll get a new watch, with 5-year warranty, plus big discount off MSRP. Should be lots of options available at that price point then!
Probably not what you're after but Christopher Ward Belcanto would be my pick.
Disturbingly, you kind of read my mind. I do like the Bel Canto lookswise but it's a tad big and it's all about the complication. Which is awesome, but I'm looking for something more GADA.
Have you looked at the 400 calibers from Oris? I know some people think the increase in price is too aggressive, but they seem to be great movements. 5 day power reserve good level of antimagnetic though not on the level of Omega, which are off the charts at 15000 gause. Though the 400 caliber are not COSC certified Oris quotes better than COSC accuracy on their website. Plus you get the 10 year warranty and service intervals. Oris is also a brand you not going to pay full price for even at a AD. You should be able to easily get a discount on them. I have some AD's immediately tell me they will discount Oris before I even ask to see anything in the case. I do not think this is because they are bad quality but just not a popular brand among people outside of watch enthusiasts. Good Luck with your decision and know no matter path you end up taking with what you are considering you are going to end up with a great watch.
Thanks for this, and you're definitely in the right ballpark. My feeling on the 400 is that it's an impressive feat but I take issue with the watches that house it. I love the BCPD but all the things I like about that design - hands, bezel, indices - have been changed for the 400 release. Similarly, I love the Divers 65... but I want it in 38mm (and not candy colours/bronze). Oris comes damn close to winning my business but they keep falling at the last hurdle.
Bulgari isn't trying to make a watch for everyone and is perhaps too flash for some but if you happen to be one of the few it speaks to it's a unique contender in that $5K price range.
Bulgari Octo Roma
Bulgari isn't trying to make a watch for everyone and is perhaps too flash for some but if you happen to be one of the few it speaks to it's a unique contender in that $5K price range.
Bulgari Octo Roma
I'd quite like a gold watch at some point but not what I'm looking for right now. Extra points for thinking outside the box though!
Well, I could recommend the Willard High End SLA051J1, you can find it at €3,100, maybe less.
Personally don’t own and have never owned a watch in that price bracket.
Personally don’t own and have never owned a watch in that price bracket.
Yup, it's a leap for me, too. I'm by no means sold on the idea either. Interesting to me how few watches I find in this bracket which I really desire vs lots in the £2-3k and £6-10k range.
If I had $5k burning a hole in my pocket…
https://www.jomashop.com/omega-watch-220-10-38-20-03-001.html
The Aqua Terra is a great choice.
The Aqua Terra is a great choice.
Feels like I'm just fighting the inevitable some days... 😂
Have looked at Ming? They are a love or hate watch that should fall right in your range. If it was me I’d go Omega AT all day.
Have looked at Ming? They are a love or hate watch that should fall right in your range. If it was me I’d go Omega AT all day.
Ming design doesn't do much for me, but I know there's lots of proponents on here. I think I'm going to have to suck it up, go to my AD and say 'show me the ATs'. To be fair, I've never gone hands-on with them, so maybe I'm not giving them a fair shake...
Ming design doesn't do much for me, but I know there's lots of proponents on here. I think I'm going to have to suck it up, go to my AD and say 'show me the ATs'. To be fair, I've never gone hands-on with them, so maybe I'm not giving them a fair shake...
Yeah I’ve not seen one live either. I’m just reading and trying to come up with brands not already listed. LOL
Kurono Tokyo has some nice dials since you mentioned GS. They have the urushi lacquer dials that are quite nice andany are available grey market for new. Doesn't have the AD experience, but you'd have to try your luck when they become available.
Cartier Santos Dumont, but has to be grey.
Oris Kermit is pretty fun! Different. Very comfortable watch actually. I like the look of other oris like the big crown pointer date or the artelier with calendar complication.
Good luck!
How about a garrick since you are in uk? Otherwise i like kudoke 1, ophion, habring, glashutte original or laine in the sub 6k rangehttps://www.thelimitededition.co.uk/product/garrick-s4/
Brands: New IWC, Cartier.
Preowned: JLC / Zenith / Panerai The boutique experience is lovely.. but... you're paying a significant premium. ~ £1000 for a 30 min experience and a glass of champagne.. Stringfellows is a lot cheaper, and they wont pull your pants down..
On Rolex:
I think with some of the power moves from Rolex at the moment, an Explorer 36 might not be quite as far off as it might appear. I was told by an AD up in Nottingham (Goldsmiths) that it's not so hard to get an Explorer 36..certainly you can get on the waitlist without a history and waitlists may be a matter of a few months.
For Southern ADs.. Mappin & Webb on Fenchurch street in London has some positive feedback on here about them: https://www.watchcrunch.com/Guvnor64/posts/rolex-ad-surprises-37322
GS Skyflake or Omega Aqua Terra would be my favourites in that price range.
5k is a stacked price bracket if your heart isn’t set on the AD experience.
The Explorer 1 and neo vintage Datejusts come into play and lots of mad shit like the Bvlgari Octo, Zenith Defy/El Primero/Revival. You have the speedy too obvs
For dresswatches there’s plenty of Reversos and Tanks well under 5k, and for a few hundred more you can get a Santos
GS Skyflake or Omega Aqua Terra would be my favourites in that price range.
Alright, alright... I'll investigate the AT! Enough already! 😂
I Picked up the omiwatari recently and it was definitely worth the wait!
This is an interesting question, and a good problem to have! I might try a neo-vintage Chopard perhaps? Oris is also very much in line with your taste from what I can tell, and definitely within budget on most models. I know you don’t want micro/independent and want to be able to touch and feel but I would highly consider Ming and Kurono Tokyo.
In my opinion you’ve already thought of the best pick (Tudor BB54) 👏🏻
Hope this helps, keep us up to date on what you decide!