Battle of the salmon, breguet numerals dress watches! Baltic vs Longines

Baltic is making loads of good noise in the market (I'm debating getting the Aquascaphe over the Bathyscaphe right now) and the MR01 definitely caught my eye. Nice coppery salmon color, oversize and polished Breguet numerals (I'm on a breguet numerals hunt as well), nice vintage size of 36mm. Some have questioned the chinese movement, the noisy rotor, and the overall "feel" of the build quality. Not sure as I haven't handled them, but boy do they look nice. The movement looks decent in photos, but surely it won't be so nicely decorated (and of course not real gold nor heat blued screws).

Last night I saw the Longines Master 190th anniversary with salmon dial. While my dad loves his vintage Longines from ages ago, I don't know that much about it. However, this one caught my eye. Could this be a worthy upgrade from the Baltic from an established brand?

I drew up a comparison for myself and thought I'd share. I'm on mobile, so I don't know how to create fancy tables, so I'll provide info on Baltic and Longines, respectively.

Case size: 36mm vs 38.5

Lug to lug: 44mm vs n/a, but the Longines seems to have shorter lugs in pics and so both might wear similarly. The bezel on the Baltic is thicker, so the face will be smaller and seem smaller in the wrist.

Lug width both 20mm

Height: 9.9mm vs 10.2mm

Glass: hesalite vs sapphire with AR both sides

Case material: both stainless steel

Case back: exhibition case back. Not sure what material is Baltic's

Strap: assumed prices using Baltics stitched navy blue strap with pin buckle vs an alligator strap with what seems to be a deployant clasp

Power reserve: 42h vs 64 (Longines will last a weekend on the shelf, but not the Baltic; but it's time only so not much of a bother for me, but sometimes I'm lazy)

Movement: Automatic Hangzhou CAL5000a Micro-rotor. Non-hacking.

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Longines "in-house" L893 but it's based on an exclusive ETA A31.L91, which is in turn an ETA 2892-A2 that has been modified to have a longer power reserve, silicon hairspring, better main spring.

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Breguet numerals: applied vs engraved

Dial: grained texture vs vertical brushed

Price (approx bc of FX ): USD 600 vs 2900

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With the numbers out of the way, I turn to my personal opinions on what I like about both. I prefer the applied numerals, it has a more classic vibe, but the engraved numerals are quite modern yet classic if that makes sense. Reminds me of Naoya Hida from Japan who does a handcrafted version of this.

The grained texture is more interesting to me, but the vertical brushing is quite a clean look too. Finally, I like the small seconds at 7 o'clock actually, it's quite striking.

Moving to the movement...while part of me thinks "who cares what powers it" just like my Lorier, where all I wanted was the aesthetic and the size. I set also don't want to buy a 'disposable' watch nor do I want the hassle of returning it to France or china or wherever.

Is the consumer paying $2300 more for proven reliability, better material (sapphire crystal), better finishing on the back, and the brand of course? I haven't made up my mind yet.

Has anyone handled both of these before and can share feedback for WC?

Anyone have the Longines Master Collection and can talk to their experience?. We've heard a lot from MR1 owners, but do chime in.

Keen to hear your thoughts!

Reply
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As you know, I am a huge fan of salmon dial watches.

I have the Baltic MR01 and it is a very well made watch and has an excellent price point.

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I have not yet had the chance to get my hands on the Longines, but from my experience with a number of other Longines references, they are always worth the money being asked. It's not just the quality of the movement but all of the finishing that goes into the watch. I just saw T3's video today and the Longines is definitely now on my radar.

One of my favorites that was also well priced, was the recent collaboration between Revolution Watch and Frederique Constant. It blows away the Baltic...is slightly higher priced than the Longines, but my guess is that it will blow away the Longines as well...

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Brand: Frederique Constant x Revolution Watch

Model: Slimline Monolithic FP(S) (Limited Edition of 100)

Model Number: FC-810MC3-SX

Movement Type: Automatic

Movement Engine: FC-810

Power Reserve: 80 hours

Case Size: 40mm

Case Thickness: 11.38mm

Case Material: Stainless Steel

Crystal: Sapphire

Luminescence: N/A

Bezel/Material: Fixed Stainless Steel

Crown: Push/Pull

Water Resistance: 30M / 100FT

Band: Black Nubuck Calf Leather Strap / Grey Calf Leather Strap

Band Width: 21mm

Price: $4,750

The key to this watch's movement is the revolutionary silicon oscillator vibrating at a record 40 hertz (80 beats per second)...10 times faster than normal watch and the amazing power reserve of 80 hours.

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I’ve owned the MR01 and handled a silver dial Master Collection. Just my $0.02…

The MR01 is very nice, but its build quality is the best you can get for its price point. It punches above its weight, but more to the tune of going from flyweight to welter weight.

The Master Collection on the other hand felt absolutely luxurious and opulent. It too punches above its weight, going from welter weight to light heavy weight.

I would choose the latter over the former 8 days a week.

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ChronoGuy

As you know, I am a huge fan of salmon dial watches.

I have the Baltic MR01 and it is a very well made watch and has an excellent price point.

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I have not yet had the chance to get my hands on the Longines, but from my experience with a number of other Longines references, they are always worth the money being asked. It's not just the quality of the movement but all of the finishing that goes into the watch. I just saw T3's video today and the Longines is definitely now on my radar.

One of my favorites that was also well priced, was the recent collaboration between Revolution Watch and Frederique Constant. It blows away the Baltic...is slightly higher priced than the Longines, but my guess is that it will blow away the Longines as well...

Image

Brand: Frederique Constant x Revolution Watch

Model: Slimline Monolithic FP(S) (Limited Edition of 100)

Model Number: FC-810MC3-SX

Movement Type: Automatic

Movement Engine: FC-810

Power Reserve: 80 hours

Case Size: 40mm

Case Thickness: 11.38mm

Case Material: Stainless Steel

Crystal: Sapphire

Luminescence: N/A

Bezel/Material: Fixed Stainless Steel

Crown: Push/Pull

Water Resistance: 30M / 100FT

Band: Black Nubuck Calf Leather Strap / Grey Calf Leather Strap

Band Width: 21mm

Price: $4,750

The key to this watch's movement is the revolutionary silicon oscillator vibrating at a record 40 hertz (80 beats per second)...10 times faster than normal watch and the amazing power reserve of 80 hours.

Glad to hear that your experience with the Baltic is solid. Makes me want to just get a aquascaphe to scratch that itch for a dressy diver without spending what I think is a lot for a bathyscaphe.

Never knew this Frederique constant existed, thanks for sharing. The open heart thing there at the bottom is a deal breaker for me though. I want to see the dial in it's simple entirety. The salmon tone looks similar to Baltic's.

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Mr.Dee.Bater

I’ve owned the MR01 and handled a silver dial Master Collection. Just my $0.02…

The MR01 is very nice, but its build quality is the best you can get for its price point. It punches above its weight, but more to the tune of going from flyweight to welter weight.

The Master Collection on the other hand felt absolutely luxurious and opulent. It too punches above its weight, going from welter weight to light heavy weight.

I would choose the latter over the former 8 days a week.

Cheers hotwatch.... sorry, master dee bater. I see your point there. Punching above it's weight, but still not able to outclass a strong contender in the weight class above. I think sometimes this kind of comparison is helpful because there's crazy hype on Baltic right now, but I'm afraid I'll be disappointed like I was with the kurono Tokyo. I'd rather spend more to get something overall better in all regards - finish, movement, etc. If you want to hit sub-$1k, you have to cut corners somewhere.

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I’ve had two different MR01s and agree they are good for the money, but not so good they outclass the Longines. Also I prefer the blue MR01 to salmon.

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Longines no question about it. I was blown away by this release. Heritage, build quality, movement after sale service everything tips the scale on the Longines in my view. In 50-60 Baltic's existence is questionable while Longines is not.

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ChronoGuy

As you know, I am a huge fan of salmon dial watches.

I have the Baltic MR01 and it is a very well made watch and has an excellent price point.

Image

I have not yet had the chance to get my hands on the Longines, but from my experience with a number of other Longines references, they are always worth the money being asked. It's not just the quality of the movement but all of the finishing that goes into the watch. I just saw T3's video today and the Longines is definitely now on my radar.

One of my favorites that was also well priced, was the recent collaboration between Revolution Watch and Frederique Constant. It blows away the Baltic...is slightly higher priced than the Longines, but my guess is that it will blow away the Longines as well...

Image

Brand: Frederique Constant x Revolution Watch

Model: Slimline Monolithic FP(S) (Limited Edition of 100)

Model Number: FC-810MC3-SX

Movement Type: Automatic

Movement Engine: FC-810

Power Reserve: 80 hours

Case Size: 40mm

Case Thickness: 11.38mm

Case Material: Stainless Steel

Crystal: Sapphire

Luminescence: N/A

Bezel/Material: Fixed Stainless Steel

Crown: Push/Pull

Water Resistance: 30M / 100FT

Band: Black Nubuck Calf Leather Strap / Grey Calf Leather Strap

Band Width: 21mm

Price: $4,750

The key to this watch's movement is the revolutionary silicon oscillator vibrating at a record 40 hertz (80 beats per second)...10 times faster than normal watch and the amazing power reserve of 80 hours.

Wow. That monolithic stuff is awesome, much more interesting than same old same old but this time made from silicon. Even if those super high beat low amplitude single piece oscillators don't become the next big thing, technologically it is way more interesting than Patek Philippe's Oscillomax sold under their 'advanced research' label (for about 100x the price 🙄)

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I’m also going through this thought experiment in my head. I do prefer the design of the Baltic, but the Longines is close and everything else about it is a major step up.

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Leaf84

Longines no question about it. I was blown away by this release. Heritage, build quality, movement after sale service everything tips the scale on the Longines in my view. In 50-60 Baltic's existence is questionable while Longines is not.

Well put. Lots of support for Longines so far.

Now an important question...which color? Salmon or anthracite 🤔

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cornfedksboy

I’m also going through this thought experiment in my head. I do prefer the design of the Baltic, but the Longines is close and everything else about it is a major step up.

Yeah, I mean I was kinda leaning towards Baltic, but I know I'll be disappointed if the quality isn't there.... I'm gonna try to visit a Longines boutique and try on the master collection even though this one is different (ie smaller), but maybe the rest is similar.

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Beanhead

Well put. Lots of support for Longines so far.

Now an important question...which color? Salmon or anthracite 🤔

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As I always tell my wife and daughter, "Why choose?" 😉

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Beanhead

Well put. Lots of support for Longines so far.

Now an important question...which color? Salmon or anthracite 🤔

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Salmon all day long.

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Beanhead

Well put. Lots of support for Longines so far.

Now an important question...which color? Salmon or anthracite 🤔

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See them in person and then decide

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Longines for me

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Leaf84

See them in person and then decide

Yes, that's always the best option but not always possible there days with either lack of inventory, microbrands have no physical shop, and in the salmon Longines case, it was just announced.

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ChronoGuy

As I always tell my wife and daughter, "Why choose?" 😉

Seeing all the watches you have , I can see that motto serves you well! I think I'll get murdered if I buy every watch on my short list!

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I like the texture of the Baltic a lot more but if we're just going purely off of color then the Longines is a lot more bold with it

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pay2huynh

I like the texture of the Baltic a lot more but if we're just going purely off of color then the Longines is a lot more bold with it

I agree, the texture of the baltic is nice. It's similar, but more defined than the anthracite version of the Longines. I don't love simple brushed dials for some reason. They feel a bit too bare.

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Longines