You have chronograph, diver, gmt, integrated bracelet, some dressy options, moonphase, quartz, automatic.
To me you can go for a few routes.
1. An XL cartier santos dumont will cover dressy and casual, manual winding, and a square watch. The second slot can be an IWC Mark XX that can cover field watch/pilot watch, everyday office watch, you can go green or black, has 120 hour power reserve so you can switch around with your other watches and still have it running.
2. You can go grand seiko either a highbeat or spring drive, lake suwa or the night/white birch models. And the second slot can be a raymond weil Millesime small seconds in anthracite which imo can cover blacktie and dressy casual depending on the strap.
3. Something vintage, maybe a vintage omega geneve 135.041 or a vintage omega ranchero or railmaster to complete the omega collection. Independent/ microbrand, it can be a baltic Mr01, a kurono tokyo, it can be a sartory billard (customizable watch design), anordain, and so on depending on your taste.
4. Having filled up my own watch box i realized that I was still not fulfilled since there are watches that no longer fits my current taste or are seldom worn that I would rather swap with another watch. So just know that even after you fill all available slots you might still be searching, might as well take it slow and fill it up with something you really really like.
Some ideas to consider sorry for the long winded post.
I think their reputation took a hit because of a lot of minor issues (movement, finishing downgrade, fakes). There is also the smaller watch trend that makes people not even consider panerai because of their size without having any experience trying them on. Plus the surge of new enthusiasts during covid (me included) dismissed the brand. Now I own one and i understand the paneristi. They are a tad overpriced but I think their iconic design makes them worth getting pre-owned.
At first I was also like a lot of people saying oh panerai they are too big and thick etc. Tried them on and i immediately get the appeal. They are supposed to be big and thick but the case design with the curves makes them smaller and even elegant in some ways. Now i own a PAM 88. Buy it in the second hand market and they can go for a lot cheaper.
I mean if there is a new release of a watch from a big brand i would assume every watch publication would report on it. Its just that since this site’s news are all about watches, the moment the embargo drops all of the news will be about the moonwatch.
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