Patek, Lange, or Chopard?

I am again considering to purchase a time-only dress watch, and the followings are the shortlisted candidates.

Some of my thoughts:

  1. Patek Calatrava: interesting dial finishing

  2. Lange: IMO an even more interesting dial than the Patek

  3. L.U.C: only one in steel, and smaller (i.e. 36.5mm diameter), beautiful guilloché and lovely salmon dial colour

I thought it would be interesting to see what you would opt for. Please feel free to also share the thinking behind your choice or even any other models outside of these three.

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I would choose the Chopard but swap the bracelet for a leather strap.

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If you’re looking for a time only dress watch, technically speaking, the only one that fits the bill is the Alange - the other two are not time only since they include a seconds hand.

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Chopard is beautiful - would be my choice from the three. I would also be seriously tempted by the Piaget Altiplano in this sector too...

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Between those 3, it’s gotta be the PP for me. Awesome design and for me it’s the new caliber that’s a real winner. Also Patek has such beautiful cases unlike Lange who literally only has 1 case type. Go PP and you won’t regret it!!

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DH_NYC

If you’re looking for a time only dress watch, technically speaking, the only one that fits the bill is the Alange - the other two are not time only since they include a seconds hand.

You are not wrong.

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Very insightful. And I also have reservation towards 39mm case size.

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tokyo_watch_guy

Between those 3, it’s gotta be the PP for me. Awesome design and for me it’s the new caliber that’s a real winner. Also Patek has such beautiful cases unlike Lange who literally only has 1 case type. Go PP and you won’t regret it!!

Thanks for your suggestion. I suppose quite simply nobody regrets having a Patek.

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danmitch

Chopard is beautiful - would be my choice from the three. I would also be seriously tempted by the Piaget Altiplano in this sector too...

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Good call. I forgot about the Altiplano. I think I should try it on before I make a decision.

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werdna

Good call. I forgot about the Altiplano. I think I should try it on before I make a decision.

Definitely worth trying on, the pictures don't do it justice. They are often special order but several variations around, including white gold.

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My choice would be a Lange 1. Love the regulator style and the big date.

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I'd 99% of the time go ALS - bit the models under consideration the Patek strikes my fancy most.

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I’m probably biased here but I’d say the Saxonia Thin that’s in the running is the winner with the Calatrava right behind it.

The copper blue dial version of the Saxonia Thin is a real sight in person and believe it or not, can be worn just as well with a suit as it does with a pair of jeans and a T-shirt.

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I would buy the Chopard but Pateks are a safe choice.

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Aherzfeldt

My choice would be a Lange 1. Love the regulator style and the big date.

I'm a big fan of the Lange 1 also. I have not checked the exact prices of the Lange 1 models but I'm pretty sure they are going to be higher than those of the three contenders I have here, hence over the budget I have right now. I'd however wish to be able to purchase one one day (or even the Zeitwerk 🤭).

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Salty1

I'd 99% of the time go ALS - bit the models under consideration the Patek strikes my fancy most.

See where you are coming from. That's why it's a little tough for me right now.

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This is like asking a guy if he prefers a blonde, redhead or a brunette lol. I say go with the one that fits your lifestyle more.

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If you can afford one of these as your option, are you really letting a bunch of strangers on the internet guide your choice? Are you 12 years old?

I am gonna' call BS here.

I like French fries.

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werdna

I think this particular Chopard model has its own uniqueness, and well, I suppose one can't really go wrong with Pateks.

One of my friends was given a 70s Calatrava in mint condition by a fella who received the watch when he was packaged out before he was ready to quit. My friend offered to pay me $500 plus the Calatrava for one of my watches which he always liked, I said that he was not thinking straight, no trade. Guy brings the watch to a well known re seller, no interest, nobody looking for 70s Calatravas with 18kt gold buckles according to the clerk. My friend approached me again but I just can’t agree to the deal, at some point the guy is going to understand, lol. I like the Chopard.

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werdna

Interesting ranking based on the observations on the movement finishing 👍🏻. I have not had the opportunity to compare the finishing of the movements of these three side by side so therefore your feedback really helps, I will definitely pay more attention to this aspect the next time I check them out.

Lange offers the best finishing of any serial producing watchmaker. Only some small independent watchmakers offer superior finishing.

Lange provides the same level of finishing for across all of their products. From "entry level" to their ultra complicated watches like the triple split.

Unfortunately this is not the case for Patek. Patek offers a significantly higher level of finishing on their higher end pieces.

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Valar_Moruda

Lange offers the best finishing of any serial producing watchmaker. Only some small independent watchmakers offer superior finishing.

Lange provides the same level of finishing for across all of their products. From "entry level" to their ultra complicated watches like the triple split.

Unfortunately this is not the case for Patek. Patek offers a significantly higher level of finishing on their higher end pieces.

Is there really such a difference in the finish? I can not imagine that it makes that big of a difference between high priced and cheaper watches.

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Being Polish, the calatrava holds a special place in my heart!

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I would take a vintage Patek but if this is not an option I would go for Lange

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Hans01

Is there really such a difference in the finish? I can not imagine that it makes that big of a difference between high priced and cheaper watches.

It really does. Take for example the Omega Speedmaster and compare it with a Lange. The anglage on the Speedy is done with a machine. On the Lange it's done manually. You can see this. The Speedmaster shows some milling marks on the bridges. The Geneva stripes look different as well.

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I would go for PP out of the 3. Personally, I am not a fan of the dial of the Saxonia or the LUC.

If size is no concern, the Breguet Classique 7147 dial is beautiful. If size is concern, also can consider the 5157. I feel that Breguet is rather under appreciated for what they offer.

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How much are these watches? Being dress models, there's little or no complications. Then they have small(er) case sizes, meaning less material. I know, spendy brands. But what are you really paying for?

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Woww i love the salmon dial of the Chopard

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benji86

I would go for PP out of the 3. Personally, I am not a fan of the dial of the Saxonia or the LUC.

If size is no concern, the Breguet Classique 7147 dial is beautiful. If size is concern, also can consider the 5157. I feel that Breguet is rather under appreciated for what they offer.

Good call. I like the 5157 also.

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mannyb65

Woww i love the salmon dial of the Chopard

Salmon dial is not for everyone. Yes and I like it also!

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Totally forgotten about VC. Going to look it up now! 🤓

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The Patek, with its black dial, will go with anything you're wearing.