Watch thickness (updated with pictures)
As with all things watches, specifications on paper doesn’t always directly translate to how it wears on wrist.
My 3 thickest automatic watches are the Omega Speedmaster triple date at 16.2mm, the Tudor P01 at 14.5mm and the Seiko Presage at 12.4mm.
From the side profiles, you can see that the case of the Speedmaster Triple Date is narrow with a significant portion of the height protruding from the case back and the cantilever style bezel. The mass of the watch is below the bezel and the protrusion from the backcase sits in the hollow on the top of the wrist, making the Speedmaster sit low and feels much like a watch that’s about 12+mm thick.
The Tudor, with it’s classic slab sided case has most of its mass on the case, sits high and has the most presence on wrist.
The Seiko also has some mass in the back case that helps make it sit in the hollow of your wrist and feel not too thick.
Moral of the story - don’t judge a watch purely based on specifications. Best to try them on in person.
Profiles off wrist:
Profiles on wrist:
Love watches, whisky. Deep rabbit hole are watches. Wallet needs a break.
I will have to agree. While the bezel and crystal add to the overall thickness of the watch, the Proportion of the case matters the most. A big slap of steel optically makes the Tudor looks much thicker. That is also why the Tudor Black Bay Pro doesn’t appeal to me. I just like thinness. 🤣
16.2mm! Man, and I thought my Laco Kiel 2 was thick at 14mm:
As you say, stats can be deceptive though.
16.2mm! Man, and I thought my Laco Kiel 2 was thick at 14mm:
As you say, stats can be deceptive though.
Oops! I posted before I completed the post. I'll edit to add more info. Ha ha!
It's funny how bulky and raw the Tudor looks simply due to the lack of details on the slabsided case, despite being a somewhat reasonable thickness based on specs in this lineup comparison.
The Speedie could do with more curved lugs to better hug the wrist. But the case to bezel ratio looks more proportioned than the Tudor and instantly thinner.
The Seiko follows a great curve and the polished sides reflect your skin and make it blend into your wrist. It's like a magic tick.
This really goes to show how essential case design and finishing are at disguising the size of a watch with visual tricks, compared to a simpler design for mass production and cost cutting. 😒
Made me look like a fool now! 😂
You’ll tell me they are actually all under 10mm.
I will have to agree. While the bezel and crystal add to the overall thickness of the watch, the Proportion of the case matters the most. A big slap of steel optically makes the Tudor looks much thicker. That is also why the Tudor Black Bay Pro doesn’t appeal to me. I just like thinness. 🤣
Yeah! Most Tudor Black Bays, with the exception of the 54 and 58, sit tall and high.
16.2mm! Man, and I thought my Laco Kiel 2 was thick at 14mm:
As you say, stats can be deceptive though.
See the side profile pics I just posted in my edit. It’s a chonky boy that somehow manages to sit much lower on wrist. I have very average 17cm diameter wrists.
It's funny how bulky and raw the Tudor looks simply due to the lack of details on the slabsided case, despite being a somewhat reasonable thickness based on specs in this lineup comparison.
The Speedie could do with more curved lugs to better hug the wrist. But the case to bezel ratio looks more proportioned than the Tudor and instantly thinner.
The Seiko follows a great curve and the polished sides reflect your skin and make it blend into your wrist. It's like a magic tick.
This really goes to show how essential case design and finishing are at disguising the size of a watch with visual tricks, compared to a simpler design for mass production and cost cutting. 😒
I’ve added more photos to show the watches off wrist. The Speedy is crazy thick! 🤣
I’ve added more photos to show the watches off wrist. The Speedy is crazy thick! 🤣
Thanks for all these pictures. It's a great and educative comparison! 👏
All too thick for my taste.
Excellent post thank you 👍🏻👍
The design chops of a watchmaker can be ascertained by the thought that goes into a case profile, in this case the view from the side.
I must say the Omega and Seiko do it very well to “hide” the thickness one you wear the watch it deceptively looks thinner.
The speedy’s lug length looks too big for your wrist . It doesn’t hug it at all ! Not so much just the thickness ? There is an air gap at each edge ! The Seiko on the other hand fits perfectly.
The speedy’s lug length looks too big for your wrist . It doesn’t hug it at all ! Not so much just the thickness ? There is an air gap at each edge ! The Seiko on the other hand fits perfectly.
It fits fine. Cheers!
It fits fine. Cheers!
It must just be the angle of your photo , hey If you love it that’s all that counts:) I have skinny wrists so I definitely can’t pull it off having only 6” wrists
Great way to show how thickness looks different for each watch. I couldn’t deal with the slab sides of my Tudor gmt but the speedmasters always feel and look fine due to the case construction but they are close enough that it shouldn’t make much difference 👍
Luckily I have quite large wrists so lug to lug doesn't really matter too much to me, case diameter size doesn't either, I have 45mm watches with 51 lug to lug that fit great because they are relatively thin, but......
I really dislike thick cased watches. The thick slabs do nothing for me aesthetically and definitely not it terms of wearability
I feel the same got 8 inch wrists so a 44mm sinn ux fits as easy as my 39mm grand seiko but I can manage a 17 mm thick tuna but a black bay gmt was way too thick for me to look at.
Excellent post to highlight it MUST be tried in person!
I also had Speedmaster triple date and it was so deceptive in tricking the eye to believe it was thinner, and meanwhile was taller than my Fortis square at 11.1 mm!!! Slab sided watch cases almost always appear to be taller.
The Yacht-Master or the Explorer sit the slimest that I’ve ever tried on. Rolex knows how to make a thin watch for sure. If only I was an investment banker and not in the military. Lol
But my Speedy is still really comfortable because of the caseback sitting in my wrist m, thin mid-case and the hesalite crystal being some of that dimension.
The speedy looks the best out of the 3 on your wrist! 😉
Excellent post to highlight it MUST be tried in person!
I also had Speedmaster triple date and it was so deceptive in tricking the eye to believe it was thinner, and meanwhile was taller than my Fortis square at 11.1 mm!!! Slab sided watch cases almost always appear to be taller.
The Fortis is such an interesting watch! 👍👍
So true, great point and picture to support
The Fortis is such an interesting watch! 👍👍
It is thanks,
as it has the most insane matte black dial, unfortunately I fell out of love with the shape.
🍻
Well stated, and great photos to illustrate. 👍 Drives home what a minefield it is to just order watches online – trying a watch on before purchase really is the way to go, if at all possible.
For example, I had originally dismissed the Seiko Speedtimer because of its proportions, but trying it on at an AD completely made me change my mind.
The speedy looks the best out of the 3 on your wrist! 😉
Thanks! I’m pretty partial to it myself!
I really should have posted my Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm… this thing is wicked thin, even with the double NATO under it.
Yeah you got it. Specs can be deceiving.
48mm Big but relatively normal from the dead on shot. 7 3/4 inch wrist.
Stands really tall on wrist.
Very true. The right size requires more consideration than just static numbers on a piece of paper.
Personally I don't consider the height from a crystal as part of the actual height; a 14mm watch may very well be 12mm in my eyes if 2mm comes from the crystal.
The P01 on paper would seem abysmally large to your typical social media watch collector. I find in person it is a much different experience👌
Very true. The right size requires more consideration than just static numbers on a piece of paper.
Personally I don't consider the height from a crystal as part of the actual height; a 14mm watch may very well be 12mm in my eyes if 2mm comes from the crystal.
The P01 on paper would seem abysmally large to your typical social media watch collector. I find in person it is a much different experience👌
Yes, getting a watch is not just a specs game.
I love the P01! It’s a strange one where it just doesn’t look like it’d work on paper, but it’s great to wear and has quite an understated different look on the wrist. It’s different, but not in a garish, obviously attention seeking manner. It’s It’s my go-to tool/tough look watch.
I agree, case shape is more important than the measurement. Your Seiko case looks great, very OP or AquaTerra like.
My Planet Ocean could be considered a bit of a beast at 17.8mm thick, but it actually wears very comfortably and fits under a cuff easily.
I agree, case shape is more important than the measurement. Your Seiko case looks great, very OP or AquaTerra like.
My Planet Ocean could be considered a bit of a beast at 17.8mm thick, but it actually wears very comfortably and fits under a cuff easily.
Thanks! Yes, the Seiko’s side walls are quite OP-esque. The fit is great, but the white dial makes it a little smart.
I love the PO! Omega watches are all quite thick but tend to wear slimmer than their measurements.