Which Model of Calatrava is Best as a Dress Watch?

I plan to get a Calatrava later this year. There are several sportier versions introduced recently. Although I find some of them quite beautiful, I have decided to instead pick one of the more traditional models, as I will wear it as a dress watch. I am interested in the models 5227 and 6119. There are some good features I like from either version. I love to have a crystal case back, and both versions have one. However, only 5227 has a dust cover, which I also love to have. Although I think the simple layout of the 5227's dial may be more faithful to the original Reference 96 (although lacking a small seconds dial), I find the 5227 a bit plain. On the other hand, the 6119 includes a small seconds dial like the original design. In addition, the bezel also incorporates the hobnail pattern that has been a signature feature of Calatrava since Reference 3520 in the 70's. Equally important is the new and bigger caliber in the 6119, whereas the 5227 still uses an older caliber. I think the 6119 has all the good things that a Calatrava can offer, except for a dust cover to the crystal case back. Between the white gold and the rose gold version of the 6119, it is a difficult choice. While the grey dial and the white gold case makes 6119G look much younger and more versatile, I slightly prefer the creamy dial and the rose gold 6119R given its more traditional and formal look. Between these four, which Calatrava model would you prefer as a dress watch?
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IMO, Calatrava with small seconds, without a date and that bezel is the dress watch, just like a pre-ceramic Submariner is the diver's watch. There may have be earlier or better ones, but this is the icon.

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CheapHangover

IMO, Calatrava with small seconds, without a date and that bezel is the dress watch, just like a pre-ceramic Submariner is the diver's watch. There may have be earlier or better ones, but this is the icon.

Yes, some feel a dress watch should not have a date. But by "that bezel", do you mean a bezel without hobnail pattern, i.e., basically 6119 but with a simple bezel?

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vchowca

Yes, some feel a dress watch should not have a date. But by "that bezel", do you mean a bezel without hobnail pattern, i.e., basically 6119 but with a simple bezel?

I mean with the hobnail pattern. It elevates the look without being too attention-grabbing. Just beautiful.

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CheapHangover

I mean with the hobnail pattern. It elevates the look without being too attention-grabbing. Just beautiful.

Oh okay.. then 6119 is the perfect dress watch! 😎

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It’s the 5227G for me, lovely clean aesthetic’s I do like the less is more look. However I would probably go for the steel version as I prefer it to precious metals.

Good luck with your purchase later this year and don’t forget to show us! 👏🏻

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Bayl61

It’s the 5227G for me, lovely clean aesthetic’s I do like the less is more look. However I would probably go for the steel version as I prefer it to precious metals.

Good luck with your purchase later this year and don’t forget to show us! 👏🏻

The 5227 is a very nice watch. I also like simple watch but just find it a bit too plain. Would prefer it to have a small seconds just like the older Reference 5196R, which is perfect!

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By the way, I am not aware that the 5227 has a steel version. I think it is available only in white gold, rose gold and yellow gold.

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vchowca

The 5227 is a very nice watch. I also like simple watch but just find it a bit too plain. Would prefer it to have a small seconds just like the older Reference 5196R, which is perfect!

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By the way, I am not aware that the 5227 has a steel version. I think it is available only in white gold, rose gold and yellow gold.

I stand corrected sir!

I thought it did……

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Bayl61

I stand corrected sir!

I thought it did……

No problem sir! It would be great if they do offer a steel version though. 😉

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The last one is rhe classic, but in reality it doesn’t matter. So I think this is more apt as a searching for Platonic Thing that is closest to your Form.

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My ideal for a dress watch is rose gold, silver or champagne dial, indices, small seconds, no date - and a ‘plain’ bezel. Which is currently not available in PP’s Calatrava line-up 🙃So, personally, I’d go for a used 5196R…

Or a VC 82172 (which is available new) 😎

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The best calatrava is A Lange saxonia thin )) if u wanna show off further, the. saxonia thin with an aventurine dial )

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Either 6119, that bezel is gorgeous.

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The 6119 would be my choice. It's got more interesting features; the hobnail bezel, the small seconds, no date to distract the eye, railroad track minutes, a little bit slimmer case, manual wind.. beautiful!

The 5227 does look a little plain in comparison, as you said.

Between the white/rose gold 6119, I'd go for the white gold. It's less ostentatious than yellow/rose gold, yet adds that gorgeous brushed grey dial - rewarding you for the more modest case colour choice.

However, if you specifically want something gold in your collection, for that lovely, warm glow from your wrist, this is a spectacular choice too!

Let us know what you eventually decide upon!

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Icarium

My ideal for a dress watch is rose gold, silver or champagne dial, indices, small seconds, no date - and a ‘plain’ bezel. Which is currently not available in PP’s Calatrava line-up 🙃So, personally, I’d go for a used 5196R…

Or a VC 82172 (which is available new) 😎

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The VC is a stunner!

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What do you mean it come with dust cover? Like an actual dust cover for the watch? Or there’s something built into the watch?

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DH_NYC

The VC is a stunner!

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Yours or trying on? Either way -

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Icarium

Yours or trying on? Either way -

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I was trying it on. A gold dress is def next up. Either this, Alange, waiting to see the 1908, JLC, with a calatrava in the mix but unlikely.

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I’m in the same boat. Looking for a Calatrava. I’m leaning hard toward the 6119G because I think it can go up and down the dress scale. That said, I do love the 5226g. Yes, it’s sportier, but again, I think it fits will all kinds of dress styles. And the dial is super interesting. Thanks for posting and let us know what you decide.

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For the most dressy watch, I'm a proponent for a light dial, small seconds, precious metal, luxurious leather strap.

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6119R. Rose gold and small seconds just scream dress watch to me.

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Icarium

My ideal for a dress watch is rose gold, silver or champagne dial, indices, small seconds, no date - and a ‘plain’ bezel. Which is currently not available in PP’s Calatrava line-up 🙃So, personally, I’d go for a used 5196R…

Or a VC 82172 (which is available new) 😎

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I also like the older 5196R and the VC you showed above. I actually initially preferred either of these 2 over the 6119, as I initially found the hobnail pattern made the bezel too busy.. But after I looked at the 6119 more, I somehow not only like it now, but not sure why, I now even like it more than a plain bezel design like the 5196R and this VC Traditionnelle model.

They are all beautiful but expensive.. So sad can't get them all! 😭

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Dumont

The best calatrava is A Lange saxonia thin )) if u wanna show off further, the. saxonia thin with an aventurine dial )

Yes, either of these two is also a beauty! So many to choose from!

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XplusYplusZ

The 6119 would be my choice. It's got more interesting features; the hobnail bezel, the small seconds, no date to distract the eye, railroad track minutes, a little bit slimmer case, manual wind.. beautiful!

The 5227 does look a little plain in comparison, as you said.

Between the white/rose gold 6119, I'd go for the white gold. It's less ostentatious than yellow/rose gold, yet adds that gorgeous brushed grey dial - rewarding you for the more modest case colour choice.

However, if you specifically want something gold in your collection, for that lovely, warm glow from your wrist, this is a spectacular choice too!

Let us know what you eventually decide upon!

I think I will likely pick the rose gold version. All the watches I currently have are of stainless steel.. It is good to have one or two in actual gold color, I guess. 😀

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wattsjr9

I’m in the same boat. Looking for a Calatrava. I’m leaning hard toward the 6119G because I think it can go up and down the dress scale. That said, I do love the 5226g. Yes, it’s sportier, but again, I think it fits will all kinds of dress styles. And the dial is super interesting. Thanks for posting and let us know what you decide.

Yes, I do like the 5226G too but can't afford them both. As I am looking particularly for a dress watch, I think the 6119 is a much better choice. Yes, the dial's texture of 5226G is very interesting. I have not seen anything like that on a dial before, but I only have very limited experience in watch collection.

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DH_NYC

What do you mean it come with dust cover? Like an actual dust cover for the watch? Or there’s something built into the watch?

I meant this thing. This is how Patek calls it. I want the ability to see the caliber, but I also want the back covered when I am not viewing it. You may call me cheap.. but I also think adding that cover would give me more gold on the watch? haha 😂

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