It got annihilated (like in the UK or in Italiy) because it was in a lower tier than the swiss market. It was a mass market for everyday's use and quartz just replaced it in the customer's eye.

I can also add the lack of concentration, unlike what led to the swatch group in 1983, wich was already the reunion of two groups of watch/parts/movement makers.

It was a smaller market, with just 5 millions watches produced a year, small companies (beside LIP) specialised in parts and scattered accross the country. France Ebauches was an attempt at concentrating movement makers, but too little, too late.

At last, considering Yema, the QC / CS issues are largely from the past nowadays. But reputation sticks longuer than facts, as you know it.

Whilst I don't dig the bronze versions, I'll make sure to check their next releases embbeding the CMM.10. This is their new premium movement, developped by the watchmaker Olivier Mory (same with their tourbillon), swiss and french made. A very nice step up.

That guy totaly bamboozeled you. First, the Birkin bag was released in 1984. Second, Hermes of that time had no savoir-faire in watchmaking. Hence the fact they cosigned their watches with jlc, corum, Eterna or UG.

Hermes' watchmaking debut starts from 1978 when they started to invest in watchmaking capability.

To me their 'golden era' is to be found after 2006 when they took 25% of Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier. They can nowadays integrate beautiful movements to their beautiful case design.

Tldr, your watchseller is just surfing the Hermes vibe, selling a watch 5 times its worth.

Hermès has been rebranding rolex, jlc watches under its name in the fifties. Guess it was on par with the definition of fashion watches, back then.

Nowadays, they are truly watchmakers to my eyes. They have history, opening their watch division in 1978 : that is older than Nomos.

Second, they have made iconic models, as the Cape Cod, l'Arceau. But also many interesting & poetic complications. "Le temps suspendu" being one of many example.

Third, they are working on true mechanical movements. They own 25% of Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier. Their Slim has the same micro-rotor also found in Parmegiani Fleurier (albeit the finishing)

At last, I'd say they have nowadays recognition, being awarded by several gphg awards.

Tl,dr : Hermès is no longer only a fashion brand but also is a watchmaker

I might have been too quick stating the french movement industry's demise.

Looks like France Ebauches is coming back from the dead, thanks to Festina. With an ambition to achieve 70% of French value.

More on Deployant

https://deployant.com/france-ebauches-with-new-french-made-mechanical-movements/

I would say Yema, since their relaunch, is on a path of integration.

First of, the mbp1000 that you point out is no longer in production. Its evolution is the mbp2000 (there is also a mbp3000 for GMT complication).

From the french page, it is said "designed, developped and assembled in France". So no parts from France afaik, because there is no longer such industry since the quartz crisis, except for high end brand like Pequignet (and I guess most of their parts are swiss-sourced).

It is evolving with their micro-rotor, because they bought machines to build bridges and bridge plates in-house. Same with Humbert Droz, which is assembling the last LaJouxPerret's G100 in France, and is beginning to produce parts of its own.

So yes, it is a slow and careful path. It means chinese parts most probably. And I am okay with that, if it is done in transparency : like what did Atelier Wen. Yema certainly is eluding, because chinese-made is still frown upon. I'll suspect you will find some chinese parts in your swiss watch though, as to be swiss made, only 60% of the value of the watch must be swiss sourced.

The fact everything is assembled and QC'd in Morteau rather than Shenzhen is what matters to me, in the end. They have improved tremendously in quality and custumer service (from what I hear when talking with Yema retailers), after some dire start that stained them durably.

BTW, their next field/dressy watch "Urban field" has a Sellita sw210 (hw) élaboré grade.

Cheers

P.S. : oh and OP might want to check SERICA, March Lab, Akrone, Charlie Paris, Hegid, Mat Watchs, ZRC, Apose, Lip... or maybe just Cartier and Hermès if he's looking for french watch brands 😜

I like it a lot !

Is it more expensive to sign a deal with Disney than to endorse David Beckham and Lady gaga, I wonder ?