Choosing *the one*
Hello!
Choosing a watch can be tricky. Reading long posts that make no sense can be boring :)
Let see how I do and hopefully your inputs can help me.
Not a big watch collector and don't want to become (will only wear one, but don't want to have expensive items lying around the house, having it in safe means I can't choose and switch it every day).
What I currently have: Tissot (quartz), Certina Chrono (Valjoux 7750), Oris Diver (Sellita), Seiko Presage Cocktail, CasiOak.
Wear Oris 90% of the time, cos ... I like it :) and cos it's the only automatic on steel bracelet, so I can take it anywhere (it's a damn diver, so of course it gets all the fun in lakes and sea).
If I sum it up: I'd be happy with a single watch, but that would obviously mean it's on a bracelet and it's WR at least 10 bar (100 m).
To meet those 2 requirements, I cut off a lot of amazing watches ... so maybe there's still an option, it's not 100% must.
Feels like I'm going too long already, let me just talk about what's currently on my mind:
Baume & Mercier Riviera - new 39mm with baumatic movement ... feels like a super all-rounder. I just don't get it, how come it's less then €4k (and based on the history of the brand, could probably go for around €3k). Same group, new IWC Ingenieur is more than €12k. What makes Riviera so much cheaper, am I missing something?
Glashütte Original SeaQ 39,5mm - I believe this could be my *the one*, but hate the fact it doesn't have the see-through caseback (c'mon, they put it on the big model!!). Seeing the movement has always been my obsession, but of course it's not like I'd really look at it on a daily basis. Am I crazy if I see this as a deal-breaker?
Blancpain Bathyscaphe 38mm - the finishing of the watch is spectacular (so is GO SeaQ), and despite that Iike the dial, I find it sometimes too basic. Like the SeaQ better, same with the bezel. Plus is that I can see the movement. And I like the whole story and history of the brand. All in all, super watch.
Breitling Navitimer B01 41mm - small wrist, but this one fits perfectly. I like the brand, like the history behind it and this model. What's stopping me: it's 3 bar/30m, colour selection is not the best (no panda dial like with 43mm), and I'm kinda shocked where Breitling is pushing the prices. No way I'm paying €9k for it.
... of course there are more watches I like, but price hikes over the past 2-3 years are just making my head hurt. Tudor for sure: maybe 39mm Pelagos if they offer other colors, or best: smaller GMT. No question asked, I take it. Or again JLC with sector dial like about 5 years back that was available for €5k.
Ah, $#!7, I wrote the whole novel, hopefully someone makes it till the end and comes with a comment that will help me clear my mind :)
Welcome to my WatchCrunch profile.
GO SEAQ all the way man
Of those the GO. If you’re looking for a GADA, how about Omega Aqua Terra
You lost me at “long post”…
Actually they are all on a very different price level. I think, the best for the money is B&M Riviera. I very like the model and it's also on my short list for good reasons.
Overall the GO SeaQ is the best watch, but it's around 10K and it's quite a pitty that it hasn't an displayed case back especially as GO makes one of the most beautiful movements.
I also love the BlancPain. It's in my opinion one of the most beautiful divers. But I never get it why in the world they can't fit the Date window in a more symetrical way for 10K. In direct comparing the GO is better I think.
Now to Breitling...actually ....not to Breitling. I want to mess your short list up by presenting a much better alternative: The Sinn 903 Navitimer. No it's not an homage. I make long story short. Few decades ago Breitling had financial problems and they soled the rights on the Navitimer model to Sinn ...or it was more like sharing. I'm sure you can find somewhere in the web the whole story. On older models you can even find on the parts the Breitling-Branding. So what's better? It has 10 ATM 😂 . And costs "only" around 3K. And the quality is first class. But note: Sinn recently discontinued it. Nobody knows why. Maybe they will bring an alternative hopefully. But if you can grab one. That would be the one
Considering the Sinn instead of Breitling I would recommend the Sinn 903 maybe before the B&M Riviera. Because who knows what an when Sinn will launge after the 903 and it's still available at some Stores.
If not gor for the Riviera.
Even the others are great, but as long you have to work for your money they wouldn't be that reasonable in my opinion.
Of those the GO. If you’re looking for a GADA, how about Omega Aqua Terra
SeaQ is a great, but also the most expensive of those 🫢😁
Wanted to like Aqua Terra (cos specs are just perfect👌🏻 + the caseback), but with exception of those fancy titanium light dark cases (for 40-50k), don't resonate 🤷🏻♂️
Omega seamaster 300 trilogy?
Actually they are all on a very different price level. I think, the best for the money is B&M Riviera. I very like the model and it's also on my short list for good reasons.
Overall the GO SeaQ is the best watch, but it's around 10K and it's quite a pitty that it hasn't an displayed case back especially as GO makes one of the most beautiful movements.
I also love the BlancPain. It's in my opinion one of the most beautiful divers. But I never get it why in the world they can't fit the Date window in a more symetrical way for 10K. In direct comparing the GO is better I think.
Now to Breitling...actually ....not to Breitling. I want to mess your short list up by presenting a much better alternative: The Sinn 903 Navitimer. No it's not an homage. I make long story short. Few decades ago Breitling had financial problems and they soled the rights on the Navitimer model to Sinn ...or it was more like sharing. I'm sure you can find somewhere in the web the whole story. On older models you can even find on the parts the Breitling-Branding. So what's better? It has 10 ATM 😂 . And costs "only" around 3K. And the quality is first class. But note: Sinn recently discontinued it. Nobody knows why. Maybe they will bring an alternative hopefully. But if you can grab one. That would be the one
Considering the Sinn instead of Breitling I would recommend the Sinn 903 maybe before the B&M Riviera. Because who knows what an when Sinn will launge after the 903 and it's still available at some Stores.
If not gor for the Riviera.
Even the others are great, but as long you have to work for your money they wouldn't be that reasonable in my opinion.
Thanks, really appreciate tanking the time and adding suggestions!
Yeah, money for sure is a limiter :) For around 3k, I can look through some shortcomings, but if it's 6k+, of like SeaQ, where it's hard to get it below 9k (with bracelet), it would had to be perfect (caseback!)
Sinn - just a day or two ago I watch a YT video about this history of Navitimer. Haven't looked into the models, but will for sure give it a go (I remember browsing through Sinn webpage a few years back, but skipped through Chrono Fliegers, cos I never connected them with the brand). Tnx!
Omega seamaster 300 trilogy?
Most of Omega's I tried, were kinda thick & too big, lug2lug or the end links didn't help 🤷🏻♂️.
And other, totally irrational, and just me: never connected with Omega. They make amazing watches, of course, but maybe too mainstream.
Thanks, really appreciate tanking the time and adding suggestions!
Yeah, money for sure is a limiter :) For around 3k, I can look through some shortcomings, but if it's 6k+, of like SeaQ, where it's hard to get it below 9k (with bracelet), it would had to be perfect (caseback!)
Sinn - just a day or two ago I watch a YT video about this history of Navitimer. Haven't looked into the models, but will for sure give it a go (I remember browsing through Sinn webpage a few years back, but skipped through Chrono Fliegers, cos I never connected them with the brand). Tnx!
I also forgot to add few alternatives:
If it comes to vallue for money it is also worth to consider Rado. Based on your selections the Rado Captain Cook High Tech Ceramic could be possible. Basicly a watch that never scratchs and keeps it's beauty for decades. It uses the ETA C07.611 Movement with 80 hrs power reserve and Nivachron spring. A work horse that is easy to care and to service. I like it but it's of course a matter of taste. The price is officially on around 4.3K in germany but easy to find for less than 4K.
Another hidden champ in my opinion is from the less known german Limes ("Lee-Mess") with their Pharo Chronograph Vollkalender (Full Calendar) using the Valjoux 7751 for little less than 3K. I wrote once an article in direct comparing with three other competitors where I wrote more about the brand (but long story short: except the movement everything is else inhouse crafted). Just in case if you are interested. The only almost downside: It's on a leather strap. But taht shouldn't be an issue. Limes (or it's mother brand Ickler) are producer from high quality bracelets :-). So I'm sure if you ask, they might find you one.
Pls also consider the Omega Seamaster 600M Planet Ocean 37.5mm in Titanium or Steel (lug to lug 43.5mm)…this watch is better made dollar for dollar than Blancpain 50F and Rolex Sub at a fraction of the cost … I know because I own all three. The Omega has way more wrist time than the other two for me.
I think it is the best diver design and value in this segment at the moment from a major and legendary watch maker.
SeaQ is a great, but also the most expensive of those 🫢😁
Wanted to like Aqua Terra (cos specs are just perfect👌🏻 + the caseback), but with exception of those fancy titanium light dark cases (for 40-50k), don't resonate 🤷🏻♂️
It’s worth it to spend more on something if it’s going to be used a lot, as long as it’s the one you want. You don’t want to regret buying something else afterwards
Pls also consider the Omega Seamaster 600M Planet Ocean 37.5mm in Titanium or Steel (lug to lug 43.5mm)…this watch is better made dollar for dollar than Blancpain 50F and Rolex Sub at a fraction of the cost … I know because I own all three. The Omega has way more wrist time than the other two for me.
I think it is the best diver design and value in this segment at the moment from a major and legendary watch maker.
A week ago I went to see Navitimer (41mm with leather fit perfectly), and as they also have Omega & PO 600m was also somewhere on my "maybe" list, I went to try it ... but the smallest they had was 39.5mm. Two things: despite l2l on paper looked good, bracelet didn't wrap around my wrist all that well + it felt quite thick.
I know there isn't much difference in thickness between these brands that sell Chronos for around 5k-10k, but some just feel/look slimmer. Probably should give Omega another try :)
It’s worth it to spend more on something if it’s going to be used a lot, as long as it’s the one you want. You don’t want to regret buying something else afterwards
I totally agree - that's why such a mess & still holding back from making a call.
People here are spending huge amounts for watches, but when it comes to me & my budget:
If it would be a 3k watch, then I'm ok.
6k is ... ok, what really makes it 100% better than the one for 3k.
And for 9k (that A lot!) I really don't want that is missing stuff from my wishlist (SeaQ, not only the big one, even the 39.5mm in full gold has the see through caseback - but no, not the regular steel 🙄).
You are missing the most all round amazing watch that also has an alarm as well as significant WR and comes on an fantastic bracelet. It's also priced just under $20k...and made by "The Watchmakers' Watchmaker"
Brand: Jaeger-LeCoultre
Model: Polaris Mariner Memovox
Model Number: Q9038180
Movement Type: Automatic
Movement Engine: JLC Caliber 956 w/Alarm
Power Reserve: 45 hours
Case Size: 42mm
Case Thickness: 15.6mm
Case Material: Stainless Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Luminescence: Hands and Markers
Bezel/Material: Fixed Stainless Steel w/Inner Rotating Bezel
Crown: Screw Down
Water Resistance: 300M / 1,000FT
Band: Stainless Steel Bracelet
Price: $18,100
Here's a wrist shot...
Totally agree on the Navitimer. Love the 40mm size, but they dropped the best color!
I see Blancpain is also getting some love, cos before it felt it's mainly GO :)
Yeah, I agree @ChronoGuy, I'm also more into watches that have their own soul and can hold their ground without all the marketing money (movies, sport events...). Blancpain & GO divers are here cos of that + I'm sure they offer better build quality, finishing than Rolex Submariner.
Breitling is history. And it's alone (despite not independent anymore), not part of and watch conglomerate like most of others.
I'm still trying to figure out what's up with Baume & Mercier. Is it really such a good deal ... maybe cos Richemont needs to stay in that lower luxury segment (they can't do it with JLC, A.Lange, IWC, VC, Cartier, Piaget, Panarai - damn, what a list!!) and lack of brand recognition - all other the I named are lights ahead (hence they could afford price hikes over the last few years).
Blancpain are amazing watches...Fifty Fathoms is my favorite...
I haven't added a SeaQ yet, but they are also great watches...and GO is highly underrated...just added a PanoMaticLunar...
B&M just doesn't get any love and can be had for pretty low prices...purchased one for my daughter years ago as her first good Swiss watch...definitely a great starter watch for Swiss luxury watches.
The only B&M I have in the collection is a vintage 1950s chronograph...
When someone mentioned Rado, my first association is always a -ceramic watch- :) They are great at making such watches, have a lot to offer, but never been my cup of tea.
Limes, I don't know, don't remember ever hearing about this brand. Did a quick search online & their webpage. Looks interesting, but not for my *the one* 🙂 If I'd be expanding my selection from initial post, there are already too many watches on the *maybe* list :)
The latest is one of the newest models, Longines Spirit Zulu Time GMT 39mm (if Tudor doesn't want to offer me a smaller GMT, this is an option!)
Yea....definatly deleate the "maybes". 😊
The Longines Zulu is also a great alternative.👌
The SeaQ is a great watch. The blue is deep and rich. There’s a long history to the design, not just from GO but many other brands back in the 60’s. It also has that great push button micro adjust clasp like IWC. I have to wear it on the strap because the bracelet is sized for my wife.
Personally, I would prefer that Blancpain in blue. I have the 43mm version and it’s just a terrific watch. It’s comfortable on me despite it’s size. The movement is beautiful. The power reserve is awesome. I’m not sure exactly how the smaller version compares in terms of movement, etc. but I’ve become more of a BP fan than a GO fan. Buy used because they are a surprising value on the used market. They don’t hold their value at all.
I will add to your list and try to save you some money. I have this Orion Calamity that’s just about killing my collection. I wear it all the time now. It’s a slim 39.5mm case with 48mm L2L, 200m diver that looks fantastic and feels terrific on the wrist. It’s got an SW300 in it. Not fancy but it’s smooth as butter and seems to be keeping excellent time over long periods. I can’t seem to get it off my wrist for very long. I’m wearing it right now.
There are different colour options and your choice of bezel. Each is made to order. The kicker is that it’s only $1650 usd. It seems like a lot for a new, small brand but it’s a great watch for the money. For how much I expect to wear this, it may be the best value in my collection.
SeaQ got my vote. Absolutely stunning piece, German watches are above Swiss in my eyes and caseback on diver should not be see through :-)
None, based on your post - If there’s something you really wanted you’d go for it without needing to consider so many other points, plus there won’t be alternatives in the first place ;). If you get the GO, you’ll always wish it has a case back. If you gotten anything else chances are you wish you had gotten the GO (since that’s the one with the least issues for you).
The GO is the best value here. And yeah it is a disappointment that you can't see the movement considering that GO has some of the prettiest movements around . . . but I'd still choose the GO. It's also probably going to be more of a unique watch out there in the wild . . . of course ANY watch is going to be unique in a sea of Apple and Submariner and Speedies . . . but GO is esp. underrated for how much of a heavy hitter they are.
Blancpain are amazing watches...Fifty Fathoms is my favorite...
I haven't added a SeaQ yet, but they are also great watches...and GO is highly underrated...just added a PanoMaticLunar...
B&M just doesn't get any love and can be had for pretty low prices...purchased one for my daughter years ago as her first good Swiss watch...definitely a great starter watch for Swiss luxury watches.
The only B&M I have in the collection is a vintage 1950s chronograph...
Damn, that's one nice collection!
GO Pano were the first models I saw from the brand a few years back & I was instantly impressed.
Probably I haven't mentioned, yet, my wrist is 16 cm, 16,5 during hot summer 😄 (6.5 inch), so even the regular Bathyscaphe looked massive & FF is even bigger.
The SeaQ is a great watch. The blue is deep and rich. There’s a long history to the design, not just from GO but many other brands back in the 60’s. It also has that great push button micro adjust clasp like IWC. I have to wear it on the strap because the bracelet is sized for my wife.
Personally, I would prefer that Blancpain in blue. I have the 43mm version and it’s just a terrific watch. It’s comfortable on me despite it’s size. The movement is beautiful. The power reserve is awesome. I’m not sure exactly how the smaller version compares in terms of movement, etc. but I’ve become more of a BP fan than a GO fan. Buy used because they are a surprising value on the used market. They don’t hold their value at all.
I will add to your list and try to save you some money. I have this Orion Calamity that’s just about killing my collection. I wear it all the time now. It’s a slim 39.5mm case with 48mm L2L, 200m diver that looks fantastic and feels terrific on the wrist. It’s got an SW300 in it. Not fancy but it’s smooth as butter and seems to be keeping excellent time over long periods. I can’t seem to get it off my wrist for very long. I’m wearing it right now.
There are different colour options and your choice of bezel. Each is made to order. The kicker is that it’s only $1650 usd. It seems like a lot for a new, small brand but it’s a great watch for the money. For how much I expect to wear this, it may be the best value in my collection.
Wow, you have both 👌🏻👍🏻
I'd be happy to get a watch with green dial & bezel, but SeaQ's shade of green doesn't do the magic - blue is for sure the one get.
Yeah, they actually use a different movement for the 38mm Bathyscaphe, from 4hz, 35 jewels, 120h, 5.65mm, they put a thinner one with lower frequency: 3hz, 28j, 100h, 3.25mm, so watch is also slimmer.
The GO is the best value here. And yeah it is a disappointment that you can't see the movement considering that GO has some of the prettiest movements around . . . but I'd still choose the GO. It's also probably going to be more of a unique watch out there in the wild . . . of course ANY watch is going to be unique in a sea of Apple and Submariner and Speedies . . . but GO is esp. underrated for how much of a heavy hitter they are.
@watchbeans, I know, maybe it's like Charlie Puth said it "One call away" or one email to GO, asking them to fix me a SeaQ with the see-through caseback 😄😉.
As @SNWatchNerd wrote, GO has so amazingly finished movements, that it would be a shame to have it hidden. (It's not like Tudor - they actually opened it up...but I was like, yeah, maybe you could stick to Rolex rule and kept it hidden 😁)
Rolex Explorer
JLC Polaris
Omega 57 Railmaster
Damn, that's one nice collection!
GO Pano were the first models I saw from the brand a few years back & I was instantly impressed.
Probably I haven't mentioned, yet, my wrist is 16 cm, 16,5 during hot summer 😄 (6.5 inch), so even the regular Bathyscaphe looked massive & FF is even bigger.
Makes sense...the FF is definitely a very large watch.
Have you tried the Helson Skindiver? While it's still 41mm, it's lug-to-lug is tighter and might be a good fit still giving that vintage FF feel for a much more reasonable price.
Glashütte Original for me, always loved the look of it.
Recent price hikes have slowed me right down, will probably buy a new piece every 3-5 years and really consider each purchase, where before it was bought on feeling.
Makes sense...the FF is definitely a very large watch.
Have you tried the Helson Skindiver? While it's still 41mm, it's lug-to-lug is tighter and might be a good fit still giving that vintage FF feel for a much more reasonable price.
No, haven't heard of Helson before.
I see there's really a huge market of all sorts of homage watches. It's good that there are options, but I'm personally looking to have one watch that I can wear, well if not everywhere, but al least to 90% of places, occasions. And as that, I'll go with one brand, model, that has some of it's own uniqueness, history.
And it's super hard to find that one watch, cos there are so many options :) That's why I'm taking my time before I decide for one.
Glashütte Original for me, always loved the look of it.
Recent price hikes have slowed me right down, will probably buy a new piece every 3-5 years and really consider each purchase, where before it was bought on feeling.
I hear you. Prices really went up.
Watch is not a necessity, but an item on which excess money is being spent.
Yeah, some ppl here have amazing collection of watches, each worth 5-10k or more.
I was able to stop myself from doing the same (well, with watches from couple hundred to 2k), cos that would be like you said, buying with feelings, impulse purchases (like an addiction).
So I'll be happy to find one all-rounder & then ... maybe later down the line something new. But don't want to manage a big collection.
I hear you. Prices really went up.
Watch is not a necessity, but an item on which excess money is being spent.
Yeah, some ppl here have amazing collection of watches, each worth 5-10k or more.
I was able to stop myself from doing the same (well, with watches from couple hundred to 2k), cos that would be like you said, buying with feelings, impulse purchases (like an addiction).
So I'll be happy to find one all-rounder & then ... maybe later down the line something new. But don't want to manage a big collection.
I have 2x divers, a Tudor Blackbay Heritage and a Ball NECC Fireman, I have dressy watches in the Bell and Ross BRS92 Golden Heritage and Montblanc Geosphere 1858 Bronze zero oxygen and of course a Tissot PRX, so I have bought watches I love and have most bases covered. I will buy more watches, I know I will, I can’t stop thinking about a medium Cartier Santos, but it won’t be for a few years and it won’t be if the value I put on them is less that the price tag.
Buy what you can afford and what sings to you and then it’s a passion, not an addiction of numbers.