Specs on paper VS actually trying it on
If you’re like me you often go straight to specs when a new watch is released or you see a new video about a watch you’ve never seen… or you’re scouring info for your next purchase. Many times I’m watching or reading something online and think to myself… “nope, too large”. I’m not even a small guy. I have a just-shy of a 7.5” wrist but I’ve just gotten used to under-40 mm watches.
This year however, I had the rare thought following the announcement of the Black Bay 54… “hmmmm too small???” I’ve heard many reviewers with smaller wrists say it’s just perfect, while many others dismiss it as too small.
In the first week of April, I was lucky enough to be traveling with my son and best friend and had a few hours to kill. We wandered into a shop with a bunch of the just released watches and other cool things we got to look at (DeepSea Challenge!). I just happened to say something about the 54 and the AD said he thought he had one I could look at!
I’ll attach photos of a few of my watches to compare. I gotta say this thing defies the spec sheets! I think the take-home is just to try on, try on, try on! I will venture to guess that the 20mm lug width helps here. It gives it a “boxy” appearance, which helps make the watch, look fuller than the dimensions would suggest. What do you all think? Have you tried this watch on? Do you think we’ll see more “traditional” retro sizes?
Enjoy the journey you all! Part of the enjoyment and anticipation is trying on stuff in person!
Easily my largest and heftiest watch
These two divers feel “just right”
I can go even smaller without a diving bezel
How do you all think that 54 looks on my (not dainty) wrist? Am I just used to the way it looks because of what I already wear?
branding / design in the craft beverage world… I draw watches with my son DraftedDial on Insta www.DraftedDial.com
Hi. You're absolutely right, trying a watch is the best way to figure out if it fits. If not possible, I'd say the lug-to-lug distance is the most important mesurent (this khaki field mechanical on your wrist is a good exemple). Thickness and case design are also very important, in my opinion. I've had plenty watches from 36 to 44mm, witch make me think case diameter is not that important, after all.
I’d definitely second the “you’ve got to try it” advice.
I’ve got a 7.25” wrist. I love a vintage watch (33mm Smiths A404)
I got to try on the BB54 recently (excuse the truly shitty photo)
I don’t know… for a tool watch it just wears too small for me.
The new Black Bay, on the other hand, is such a step up from the previous version. If the original wore too big/fat for you, do yourself a favour and try the new one.
I’d definitely second the “you’ve got to try it” advice.
I’ve got a 7.25” wrist. I love a vintage watch (33mm Smiths A404)
I got to try on the BB54 recently (excuse the truly shitty photo)
I don’t know… for a tool watch it just wears too small for me.
The new Black Bay, on the other hand, is such a step up from the previous version. If the original wore too big/fat for you, do yourself a favour and try the new one.
Love that Smiths!
Love your philosophy behind sizing! I don’t know what it is about the photo you shared of the bb 54 on wrist, but it looks very big proportionally speaking compared to your other photos so it’s hard to tell how small it actually looks on your wrist.
I have a 6.5inch wrist and Personally, I tried on the bb54 and felt it was to dainty as a dive watch. So I went with the 58 and it feels just right. Also eying the bb pro.
But I think you could totally rock the 54 and it would look amazing.
I have a 7.75 inch wrist and I like my tool watches on the bigger side....39-42mm and also depending on the lug to lug. I tried the BB54 on the rubber strap when I looked for the new BB 36/39. It was too small for me personally, wore similar to my 38mm Seiko 5. And the dive bezel was funny because it looked tiny compared to the 62mas I was wearing. Without a bezel, I prefer going down to 36mm but for a dive watch on my wrist size, the 37mm BB54 looked out of place.
You were right about the 20mm lugs, it bulks up the watch slightly to give the tool watch aesthetics. If the lugs were 18mm, the watch would have looked even smaller. Great watch for smaller wrists nonetheless, but if you are used to tool watches above 40mm then the BB54 is not going to be your cup of tea.
I find that looks are less important than comfort for anything that is over 36mm. For anything over that I find caseback and lug shape can have a dramatic impact. Whereas with a smaller watch almost any design is comfy in my experience.
Agreed… you can see from the pictures I posted that I generally have a vintage-inspired-yet-modern slant… as far as taste goes.
Specs are really fun to consider and helps for rough guidance on what might work for your specific wrists. But in my opinion you’ve really got to try it on to know. I’ve had watches I thought would be perfect feel rather meh actually on the wrist and others I knew would not work on my 6.7” wrist (Panerai) and was shocked how great it felt and looked. To me it’s like shoes: you’ve got to try it on to know.
Specs are really fun to consider and helps for rough guidance on what might work for your specific wrists. But in my opinion you’ve really got to try it on to know. I’ve had watches I thought would be perfect feel rather meh actually on the wrist and others I knew would not work on my 6.7” wrist (Panerai) and was shocked how great it felt and looked. To me it’s like shoes: you’ve got to try it on to know.
I had a similar experience trying on a Panerai!
In my experience it's difficult to judge from photos but from what I'm seeing it looks just fine on your wrist.
I always like to try it on first. The only watch I haven’t done this with is my newest acquisition. The Tudor Pelagos FXD. I already own a Tudor BB in a 41mm and knew the FXD is 42mm (what’s a millimeter gonna matter?) and Titanium, so much lighter in weight. Plus I had watched a few videos with guys that had my wrist size and also knew the case has a slight curve at the lugs so I was good with it.
I always like to try it on first. The only watch I haven’t done this with is my newest acquisition. The Tudor Pelagos FXD. I already own a Tudor BB in a 41mm and knew the FXD is 42mm (what’s a millimeter gonna matter?) and Titanium, so much lighter in weight. Plus I had watched a few videos with guys that had my wrist size and also knew the case has a slight curve at the lugs so I was good with it.
That’s always a good idea… I know a couple YTubers with similar-sized wrists to mine 😀
In my experience it's difficult to judge from photos but from what I'm seeing it looks just fine on your wrist.
Just what I neeeeeeeded to hear
As a member of the daintier wrist society, I'm usually concerned with watches looking too large. So I find the lug-to-lug (not necessarily case diameter) a better indicator of whether it will wear large or not. It will tell me if the lugs will reach beyond my wrist. Obviously I'm not going for a 48mm Ploprof, but 42mm can fit great or terribly depending on the lug-to-lug length.
Wrists also come in different shapes - with flatter ones or rounder wrists. I have a 6.5" wrist, but it's reasonably flat, so more of the wrist is top surface area where my watch sits, allowing me to wear slightly larger watches than if I had a more round wrist equally as wide as it is deep.
You can't beat trying on the watch though - especially those where the sizing is commented on regularly in comments. (BB Pro, BB 54, etc).
I tried the BB54 just after it came out. I have a wrist just over 7 inches so pretty average. I loved it and I want one! I have a PO1 and a Pelagos, both big units, bit I found the 54 really appealing.
I think Tudor have scored a massive hit with this watch and you are right....you must try it on!
Love the Milanese bracelet on the SSW 53. Looks great.
Love the Milanese bracelet on the SSW 53. Looks great.
thanks!