Builds... They're grrrrrreat!

I've decided I'm going to start another build. My starting point is the above dial. It's in the mail and I'm excitedly anticipating it's arrival. But I'm deciding what direction to go with the movement.

Of course my knee jerk reaction was too build it with a Seiko NH38. Cheap, rugged, reasonably precise, easy to acquire. All reasons the NH series has become a standard issue movement with Micro's and Builders alike.

But sometimes the little things catch my attention and then drive me up a wall. The dial says Swiss.

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It seems like a travesty to have a watch proclaiming Swiss on a dial with a Japanese movement and a Chinese case.

So I think, easy, peasy, lemon squeezey. I'll just use a SW200 and remove the date wheel. Gold standard of base movements. Plenty of cases it'll fit to choose from. But then I do the math. Do I really want to spend 5X the amount of an NH on a build? Don't get me wrong, it's not that I'm cheap. I like to tell my kids that "I'm broke not cheap!". Well...maybe on second thought... I'm broke and cheap.

For context, the original movement, for the original watch that sported this dial, was a Bettlach cal. 8811. Which apparently, was an inexpensive single jewel, manual wind, pin pallet Swiss movement made in the mid 70's. The watch was made to be a promotional stunt, a marketing gimmick, not a Swiss masterpiece. Any movement I use, Swiss, Japanese, Chinese, Russian, will be better than the original 😂.

So now I'm wondering about using a Swiss clone. A Seagull ST2130 or H.K. PT5000 maybe. If they're a Swiss clone does that at least keep the "spirit" of the dial? I mean it says "Swiss" in the description right? And clone means exactly the same right? Right? Maybe? Is it enough to curb my selective OCD?

And does dial size matter? I don't have the dial yet but it's advertised as 31mm. However,

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This photo makes it look a lot closer to 29mm.

If I'm being honest, there's a piece of me that giggle's inside at the thought of using an SW200. This cheesy little dial hiding an accomplished Swiss workhorse. If I buy a decent case and strap. I'll have a watch Micro's sell for $700 - $1000 with a silly marketing dial. Somehow that seems funny as h&!! to me. And it makes me want to go for it. But my wallet isn't laughing.

Any experienced Builders, Modders, Watchmakers or Dr Frankensteins care to weigh in?

Does it matter? It's just for fun after all.

Reply

Yummy

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That is a super cool dial!

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ZST_99

That is a super cool dial!

Thank you! I'm hoping it's as cool up close and personal

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That a great idea. Just because I start with a ST2130, doesn't mean I can swap it out later. If my history with watches has taught me anything it's that patience and persistent pay off.

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As much as I would say, it doesn’t matter, for us Modders and builders, yes sir it does 🤣… it will annoy you a bit… but would you be able to paint over it?! 🤔

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I agree with this…💯👍🏻

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🤔 hmmm.... I was think behind the dial. I wouldn't have thought about covering the Swiss part. That's something to consider.

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Use an NH38 and then write “Swiss” on the rotor with a sharpie. With a display caseback of course. Voilà! Chef’s Kiss! Lol 😂

I’ve been wanting to try out a PT5000 but I haven’t gotten one yet. That’s probably what I’d go with if it was me. Are you gonna have to use adhesive dial dots to fix the dial to the movement?

And from what I’ve seen, most all omega seamaster clone cases take the 31mm dials.

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FlashF1R3

Use an NH38 and then write “Swiss” on the rotor with a sharpie. With a display caseback of course. Voilà! Chef’s Kiss! Lol 😂

I’ve been wanting to try out a PT5000 but I haven’t gotten one yet. That’s probably what I’d go with if it was me. Are you gonna have to use adhesive dial dots to fix the dial to the movement?

And from what I’ve seen, most all omega seamaster clone cases take the 31mm dials.

Hahaha! Chef's kiss! For a few extra dollars I can probably get an AliX vendor to actually engrave a rotor with the Swiss flag for me.

I honestly don't know where the feet are for the dial. I'm hoping they match right up 😁 But I looked it up and the original movement was wider than the 2824 so I doubt it. I'm assuming yes I'll need to use dial dots. And my previous attempts with dial dots has not gone well. But I'm confident I can make it work.

I would use a SeaMaster case and be fine with it but I prefer something without a bezel for this. But I'm not case shopping until I have the dial in hand and can measure myself.

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The indications on that caliper are definitely saying 31. I think you’re looking at the edge of the bottom jaw of the caliper, but the graduations start lower. Look at the top of it and you’ll see what I mean, the graduations are offset when the jaws would be closed

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GotTheTime

The indications on that caliper are definitely saying 31. I think you’re looking at the edge of the bottom jaw of the caliper, but the graduations start lower. Look at the top of it and you’ll see what I mean, the graduations are offset when the jaws would be closed

I see what you mean. You're right I was looking at the edge of the caliper. Some of it might have also been wishful thinking 😁 A 29mm dial will have more case options.

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If it will annoy you, then you should get the Sellita. Personally, it wouldn’t bug me a bit, and I love the high value and reliability of the entire NH line. I’m guessing that you’re taking into consideration the dimensions of the choices. I’ve been bitten by not paying attention to what fits into what. I love the dial. If only you could find some hands that look like a spoon. Very cool. Please post updates!

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Let us see the complete #modding please

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Franks

Let us see the complete #modding please

Absolutely! Parts are on the way. But between shipping time and me finding time, it's likely to be 2 or 3 weeks before it's finished.

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skydave

If it will annoy you, then you should get the Sellita. Personally, it wouldn’t bug me a bit, and I love the high value and reliability of the entire NH line. I’m guessing that you’re taking into consideration the dimensions of the choices. I’ve been bitten by not paying attention to what fits into what. I love the dial. If only you could find some hands that look like a spoon. Very cool. Please post updates!

Sorry, I'm a little late with a reply lol. I did take a look at the spoon cadaver watch you suggested. It's a really great idea! But I think I'm going to go with something a little more traditional. Found a Sellita today half price for Black Friday. Who knew watch parts did black Friday?! So I bit the bullet and pushed "buy now". Finding the case to fit a 31mm dial has been the real challenge. The build has been slowly evolving since I started thinking about it. It's much different now than when I first envisioned it. Parts are ordered. We'll see how it turns out. And then I'll write an unnecessarily long and mostly dull post about it. 😁