One & Done: Chapter Twelve - IWC (#defsoneanddone)
Foreword
Welcome and welcome back! If you're new here, I'm exploring the 20 best-selling watch brands of 2022 (as seen on GQ Australia) and answering the question: If I could only have one watch from this brand FOREVER, which would I pick?
Today we are looking at IWC, but if you want to see my previous article where I covered TAG Heuer, follow #defsoneanddone or click the link here!
#9: IWC – Mark XX
As you may (or may not) know already, I am usually attracted to watches that tend to set themselves apart from their horological peers. I mean, half of this entire list has been dedicated to finding what I feel is the most unique watch of the top 20 highest-grossing watch brands! I know that the entire concept of these articles is about watches I would be comfortable wearing forever, but if I just wrote about the same old timepieces as everyone else, blathered on about the versatility, reliability and blah, blah, blah… I would have stopped with my first review.
Which was Bvlgari, by the way… if you want to check it out, maybe?
The Mark XX from IWC, however, is opposite to everything I would normally be looking for in a watch.
But what about the pilot watch design?
Snore – I can find that on a Laco or a Stowa.
Well, the IWC also has a lot of heritage.
Yawn! Sure, IWC was one of five brands producing timing instruments for the Germans in WWII, but another of the five was A. Lange & Söhne, and look how they turned out. You really can’t break it down any other way: This thing is about as exciting as the prospect of watching an entire test match of cricket in one sitting.
Sorry to all you cricket fans out there, but even as an Australian I got to admit – baseball is way better.
But here’s the thing – IWC’s never been one to make a watch with dramatic flair. The Mark XX isn’t built to ‘inspire’ with any asinine ‘wow’ factor. It’s not crying out to the gods of horology “I’m special, I’m special!” It’s most certainly not going to win any awards at the GPHG any time soon. It’s so unceremonious that IWC themselves did not even choose to promote the release of their newest model: No press, fanfare… nothing.
Yes, it’s as boring as plain toast and butter, but if you’ve ever had homemade toasted bread with New England butter, you would know that high-quality components can go a long way, even in the simplest of things.IWC has certainly not skimped out in this sense, opting out of trying to reinvent the wheel and opting into making a watch that can tell the time extremely well – you know, like a watch is supposed to.
Sidebar – Who makes the best butter in the world? France? New England? Someone else? Let me know – I want to try some quality butter.
Standing 10.8mm tall with a 40mm case diameter, this watch wears like an absolute dream for just about anybody with an average-sized wrist. I have had the pleasure of being able to wear one myself, and it seriously is something else once it’s been on your wrist. Don’t believe me? This review by Teddy may change your mind.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z8rJbeeyZY8
Also, the watch he wears is sized to his wrist. I am poor, so I must relegate myself to the imagination.
This simplistic but incredibly streamlined design is accompanied by IWC’s Automatic Calibre 32111, which boasts a luxurious 4Hz beat rate whilst retaining a whopping 5-day power reserve. However, this does lead to my biggest gripe with not just the Mark XX but IWC and Richemont in general.
Intermission - Rant time!
The Cal. 32111 is great. So great, that IWC decided to also put it into the brand new Ingenieur and jack up the price by a million or something. We all know that this is unusual, right? I suppose there are two ways of looking at it:
1) The Mark XX is an exceptional watch from IWC, allowing you access to a movement that is in a timepiece double the price, or
2) The Cal. 32111 is eerily like the Baumatic movement from sister brand Baume et. Mercier, so Richemont really screwed up and you can get ten B&Ms for the same price as an Ingenieur with the same engineering capabilities. The real kicker is that the Baumatic is COSC, whilst the 3211 isn't!
However, until Baume et. Mercier’s designs really begin to stick out to me, I think I’ll live in blissful ignorance and go with my luxury pilot piece instead. Looking at this Clifton, however... damn.
My misgivings aside, The IWC Mark XX is a brilliant watch that must be seen to be believed. The internet is such a wonderful thing, especially for us watch enthusiasts. We have the whole world at the behest of our phones and computers, which allows us to view any watch ever made, at any point in time, originating from anywhere on the planet.
However, reliance on measurements by the numbers, design by promotional images and reviews by experts and enterprising social media stars will only get you so far. Every so often, a timepiece comes along that transcends such rigorous online research, treading the line between stylish, fashionable, and understated practicality – A watch born to be worn. The IWC isn’t anything special, but one thing’s for sure: It's just that good.
I wrote all of this in one sitting, after two weeks of writer’s block! Hope it was good! Next up – Tissot!
I am not Gerald Genta. I like to draw watch ideas. They usually suck. #defsnotgenta for more.
Moving swiftly past the blasphemy about cricket....
I used to hanker after an IWC pilot watch (in particular the Spitfire) but then I tried them on and lost interest. Great quality but the dial designs in the flesh leave me cold. The Clifton you showed is a much nicer looking watch in my opinion, and comes in some great colour ways.
Moving swiftly past the blasphemy about cricket....
I used to hanker after an IWC pilot watch (in particular the Spitfire) but then I tried them on and lost interest. Great quality but the dial designs in the flesh leave me cold. The Clifton you showed is a much nicer looking watch in my opinion, and comes in some great colour ways.
You just love cricket because you always hope for the day that England wins the Ashes 🤪
But in all seriousness, I honestly do believe that the Mark XX in either the blue or green look incredible. For the price, maybe a bit much - the Clifton would definitely win out - but it is just surprisingly good, especially for someone like me who appeals to a more esoteric aesthetic.
Around town, IWC enjoyed a great run with their various pilot themed watches especially with city celebrities but while I receive emails and even a greeting card at Christmas from the area boutique that will be a collectible, I remain on the outside of a great brand after several long visits to boutiques. I have been giving deep thought to a few Baume & Mercier models before the brand suddenly develops a following.
Sometimes we need a break from the 7 course tasting menu, and we just want “toasted bread and butter” I couldn’t agree more!Maybe this is why I love the brand and on my second watch from them.
Currently I wear the Mark xviii when I need a break from the watches that attract too much attention. Sometimes just need to go in stealth mode and the Mark line of watches gives me that.👍
As a former Mark XX owner, I gotta speak up here.
The 32111 movement is definitely NOT COSC. In fact, IWC doesn't even publish accuracy ranges for it at all, let alone run it through any certification process. My own was running more than 20 seconds off before they agreed to repair it. When it returned from a "full service" it was hovering around 7-seconds/day fast. It also has a known issue where the minute hand jumps when the crown is pulled out or pushed in during setting. IWC told me this was normal for the movement, refused to repair it under warranty, and instead offered a workaround where you turn the minute hand forward and then back to the correct time before pushing the crown back in (it's worth noting that the Oris Calibre 400 had this same issue, but they've since corrected it). I wouldn't put up with this in a $400 Seiko 5, let alone a $5k IWC. Keep in mind, IWC is putting this same movement in $14,000 Ingenuers...
I also need to point out that this wasn't the only problem I had with the watch. Immediately after purchase, it was returned to them because the seconds-hand was warped and needed to be replaced. So in the course of 9 months of ownership, it was sent back to them for two different warranty repairs and still came back running 7 seconds fast and unable to be set without a workaround. Sold it and can't imagine going back to IWC again.
Whereas I normally accuse German watches of being ugly, I forget that IWC is German, or even exists. If they have one watch, it is the Ingenieur. These flieger things are as generic as watches come.
There is not an IWC I would buy with my own money.
There is not an IWC I would buy with my own money.
I made the mistake of buying one and it's not a mistake I'll be making again.
As a former Mark XX owner, I gotta speak up here.
The 32111 movement is definitely NOT COSC. In fact, IWC doesn't even publish accuracy ranges for it at all, let alone run it through any certification process. My own was running more than 20 seconds off before they agreed to repair it. When it returned from a "full service" it was hovering around 7-seconds/day fast. It also has a known issue where the minute hand jumps when the crown is pulled out or pushed in during setting. IWC told me this was normal for the movement, refused to repair it under warranty, and instead offered a workaround where you turn the minute hand forward and then back to the correct time before pushing the crown back in (it's worth noting that the Oris Calibre 400 had this same issue, but they've since corrected it). I wouldn't put up with this in a $400 Seiko 5, let alone a $5k IWC. Keep in mind, IWC is putting this same movement in $14,000 Ingenuers...
I also need to point out that this wasn't the only problem I had with the watch. Immediately after purchase, it was returned to them because the seconds-hand was warped and needed to be replaced. So in the course of 9 months of ownership, it was sent back to them for two different warranty repairs and still came back running 7 seconds fast and unable to be set without a workaround. Sold it and can't imagine going back to IWC again.
This is a very important point.
I recently got hands on with the Mark XX and the Spitfire on a trip to the Middle East. In the flesh, the Spitfire is disappointing... just too muted. It doesn't look like a $4k watch. The blue Mark XX on the other hand, is a stunner.
But hackmartian's experience is clearly not an exception. In Teddy's video he had two Mark XXs. One ran to +5 seconds a day. The other ran +12 to +15 seconds a day. That is totally unacceptable at even half this price point.
The Mark XX costs 15 times the price of my Laco Augsburg. And that's running +7 seconds a day (on a dirt cheap Miyota movement!). Of course, you're getting far greater quality in other areas. But if I paid that money for the IWC and it ran that fast I would be seriously p****d off. Some brands are taking us for fools with inferior movements in expensive watches. Frankly COSC is not even good enough at this price. METAS should be the new norm.
Watch enthusiasts MUST be much more demanding when it comes to accuracy. If you pay $4k to $5k you should be expecting close to Omega/Rolex standards. These watches are supposed to keep the damned time.
Of course if someone close to me won the lotto and bought me one I wouldn't complain, because I do adore the blue Mark XX. 🤗 But I couldn't possibly justify spending my own money on such a poor time keeper
This is a very important point.
I recently got hands on with the Mark XX and the Spitfire on a trip to the Middle East. In the flesh, the Spitfire is disappointing... just too muted. It doesn't look like a $4k watch. The blue Mark XX on the other hand, is a stunner.
But hackmartian's experience is clearly not an exception. In Teddy's video he had two Mark XXs. One ran to +5 seconds a day. The other ran +12 to +15 seconds a day. That is totally unacceptable at even half this price point.
The Mark XX costs 15 times the price of my Laco Augsburg. And that's running +7 seconds a day (on a dirt cheap Miyota movement!). Of course, you're getting far greater quality in other areas. But if I paid that money for the IWC and it ran that fast I would be seriously p****d off. Some brands are taking us for fools with inferior movements in expensive watches. Frankly COSC is not even good enough at this price. METAS should be the new norm.
Watch enthusiasts MUST be much more demanding when it comes to accuracy. If you pay $4k to $5k you should be expecting close to Omega/Rolex standards. These watches are supposed to keep the damned time.
Of course if someone close to me won the lotto and bought me one I wouldn't complain, because I do adore the blue Mark XX. 🤗 But I couldn't possibly justify spending my own money on such a poor time keeper
After I sold my Mark XX (the blue dial, as stunning looking as you say, save for the bent hand mine came with) I bought the Seiko 5 Snoopy pilot watch — $400 for an admittedly fun and less serious timepiece, but while I won’t even try to say the finishing is in the same world as the IWC, the overall quality of the Seiko 5 is actually better. The movement has proven to be just as accurate (though, admittedly, the ValFleurier/Richemont/IWC 32111 didn't set a high bar), and I can actually set the time without the hands jumping. Most importantly, it hasn’t needed to go back in for service. And as far as the IWC customer experience goes, their insistence that the jumping minute hand was acceptable and not eligible for warranty repair is a total relationship ender. I don’t mind paying for quality — I’ve never questioned the value of the higher-end watches that remain in my collection, but the IWC product and experience I had was indefensible.
As a former Mark XX owner, I gotta speak up here.
The 32111 movement is definitely NOT COSC. In fact, IWC doesn't even publish accuracy ranges for it at all, let alone run it through any certification process. My own was running more than 20 seconds off before they agreed to repair it. When it returned from a "full service" it was hovering around 7-seconds/day fast. It also has a known issue where the minute hand jumps when the crown is pulled out or pushed in during setting. IWC told me this was normal for the movement, refused to repair it under warranty, and instead offered a workaround where you turn the minute hand forward and then back to the correct time before pushing the crown back in (it's worth noting that the Oris Calibre 400 had this same issue, but they've since corrected it). I wouldn't put up with this in a $400 Seiko 5, let alone a $5k IWC. Keep in mind, IWC is putting this same movement in $14,000 Ingenuers...
I also need to point out that this wasn't the only problem I had with the watch. Immediately after purchase, it was returned to them because the seconds-hand was warped and needed to be replaced. So in the course of 9 months of ownership, it was sent back to them for two different warranty repairs and still came back running 7 seconds fast and unable to be set without a workaround. Sold it and can't imagine going back to IWC again.
What a sad experience !
I do not have any issue with the hands but mine is definitely running too fast. As the 32111 caliber is a Baumatic clone, one should be able to adjust it within COSC range. I will ask my watchmaker to do its magic.
What a sad experience !
I do not have any issue with the hands but mine is definitely running too fast. As the 32111 caliber is a Baumatic clone, one should be able to adjust it within COSC range. I will ask my watchmaker to do its magic.
It's such a great looking watch and I hope you can get it easily regulated without voiding the warranty. That would solve all of the Mark's issues IMO.
Related, I posted last week about my experience with a newly-acquired King Seiko, which I took to a local watchmaker to regulate because it was running so far out of spec. I said I was thrilled because the watchmaker now has it running -2/day and got a flurry of angry responses saying that, for $1700 it's absurd that Seiko isn't regulating that movement in the factory. When I posted on WC and elsewhere about my frustrations with the Mark XX, which cost 3x more, people generally defended IWC even if they voiced sympathy for what they dismissed as my isolated experience. It caused me to wonder why the more we spend on something, the more forgiving we seem to be of its flaws and the more compelled we feel to defend its value. We're funny that way...
It's such a great looking watch and I hope you can get it easily regulated without voiding the warranty. That would solve all of the Mark's issues IMO.
Related, I posted last week about my experience with a newly-acquired King Seiko, which I took to a local watchmaker to regulate because it was running so far out of spec. I said I was thrilled because the watchmaker now has it running -2/day and got a flurry of angry responses saying that, for $1700 it's absurd that Seiko isn't regulating that movement in the factory. When I posted on WC and elsewhere about my frustrations with the Mark XX, which cost 3x more, people generally defended IWC even if they voiced sympathy for what they dismissed as my isolated experience. It caused me to wonder why the more we spend on something, the more forgiving we seem to be of its flaws and the more compelled we feel to defend its value. We're funny that way...
I agree with you, it should be way more accurate and it is not a caliber issue but a human regulation / cost of production / quality-control issue. This is a bit disapointing... but what a (pricy) stunner ! :p