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Q: How did you get into watch collecting?
It all started when I began researching the history of Chinese watchmaking, especially the rich legacy of the Seagull brand spanning over 60 years. As one of China's pioneering watch companies since 1955, I was fascinated by Seagull's role in helping establish domestic watch production to meet the needs of the nation. The story of the original "Project 304" Air Force chronograph designed for aviation use really captured my interest. Realizing all the technical expertise and self-sufficiency required for Seagull to produce their own movements and compete with the Swiss, I gained immense respect. Not just the innovation, but the persistence in watchmaking against all odds. As I learned more about significant Seagull models over the past decades like the 1963 and Venus reissues, as well as launches of new complications like tourbillons, my passion for collecting these important Chinese timepieces grew tremendously. Owning a series of the brand's historic flagship pieces allowed me to preserve an important slice of China's manufacturing history while appreciating Seagull's own progress in watch technology. It's been an illuminating journey into Chinese horology through a legendary brand.
Q: What was the first watch you ever owned?
Fossil
Q: Do you have a watch with a particularly interesting story behind it?
I'd have to say my vintage Seagull 1963 chronograph has one of the most fascinating backstories among the watches in my collection. As one of China's most iconic mechanical watches, the origins of the 1963 stretch back to the height of the Cold War era. When Swiss watch imports were banned, the nation urgently needed a domestically-produced chronograph watch for military pilots. And against improbable odds, a team of engineers at Seagull pulled it off in record time - developing the double-register ST3 chrono movement that would power the 1963 chronograph specially made for the People's Liberation Army Airforce. Just imagining those Chinese watchmakers rapidly innovating chronograph technology while Switzerland dominated the industry at the time gives me goosebumps! The 1963 movement even impressed experts at the Neuchatel Observatory trials back then. So every time I wear my 1963 reissue today with its pump pushers and bold vintage vibe, I'm reminded of the watch that helped put Chinese-made mechanical watches on the global map. The 1960s aviation heritage embodied in the 63's torch red star insignia and pulsometer scale never ceases to inspire me either. It captured a pivotal era when the nation rallied around developing domestic technology as a source of Chinese national pride. Owning this milestone Chinese aviation chronograph is like keeping an important slice of watchmaking history alive on my wrist. All from a historic brand that continues pushing boundaries, as we recently saw with their dual tourbillon release!
Q: What is one piece of advice you have for someone just getting into watches?
Trust Seagull, Not Just Limited to Swiss Watches
Q: What brands have been getting your attention lately?
Peacock watches
Q: What is your grail watch and why?
My current grail watch is the vintage Seagull 1963 chronograph. As a Chinese watch enthusiast, I've long admired this iconic model first created in the 1960s for the PLA Airforce pilots. With its bold vintage aviation styling paired with a mechanical hand-wound movement, the 1963 chrono checks off so many boxes for me. The 38mm stainless steel case strikes the perfect balance between vintage charm and wearing comfort. And I just love that bright red star under the 12 o'clock marker signifying its military lineage! But beyond aesthetics, the history behind the 1963 chronograph is what makes it so special. At a time when Chinese watchmaking was in its nascent stage, being able to develop an in-house chronograph movement was a significant feat. The original 1960s model is credited with helping advance China's entire domestic watch industry through its pioneering technology. The reissued contemporary 1963 chronograph stays faithful to that groundbreaking original design by utilizing a classic column wheel movement. From the functional bi-compax layout to luminous sword hands, every detail salutes its aviation roots. Strapping on a re-creation of the watch that enabled Chinese airforce pilots to time flight operations decades ago on my wrist - that's an unbeatable part of horological history right there! And it comes at an incredible value compared to those soaring Swiss prices. That blend of nostalgic retro charm, mechanical calibre and shared national heritage - that's why the 1963 remains my affordable grail watch.
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