First Mechanical/Auto help
Hi! This is my first post here. I’ve been wearing my G Shock 5610 for years now and still love it, but am ready to move on to an auto or mechanical.
I’d like to get something that:
Goes well with different straps for versatility.
Is between 38 and 40mm
Won’t give me problems and need regular service (I’m the kind of person who buys cars that last for 15 years).
Comes from a classic brand with a classic style
I’m leaning toward a dive or field watch. I like the idea of a watch doing well with steel, nato, and leather. I don’t mind buying used. I might even prefer it so that I’m not losing value on purchasing it.
Eventually, I’d love to save up/trade up for something like a Tudor Ranger, Black Bay 58, or IWC Pilot.
For now, since this is my first mechanical, I’d like to do something around $1k or less.
From my research, my top contenders are:
Seiko SPB143
Seiko Baby Alpinist (gray/black dial)
Hamilton Field Mechanical 38
Hamilton Murph 38. (I’m a massive Christopher Nolan fan).
I’d love to get some thoughts from some of you who have more experience than me! I’d really like to get a great watch that can go from casual to business and will last for many years to come.
Thanks!
The Alpinist would be my choice at best to straddle the casual/dressy line, but really, you can't go wrong with any of these
This Citizen I have for sale has the looks. It is a bit bigger at 42mm but it’s a cushion case so it evens out. Miyota 8210 powered so it’ll last. Good starter piece, low cost of entry and I doubt you’d lose anything on resale.
I’d go with the Murph…who’s cutting onions? 😭
If you want to dip your toes in a cheaper price look into the Seiko SRPE or DresSKX.
Great value, works on ANY strap & very reliable common movement. You can also upgrade to a better bracelet & put in a sapphire crystal if you want
The SPB143 and Baby Alpinist are good choices, but I highly recommend taking a look at the Alpinist GMT SPB377 or SPB379. These, unfortunately, do not come with bracelets, but you can easily get a bracelet from Strapcode.
For a dive watch I’d look at Orient. I’m sure I heard that they have a 39mm diver now, but to be honest the Orient Kamasu at 42mm wears much smaller. For a field watch I don’t think you can go wrong with any of your choices so it’ll just be down to what you like most.
I would pick the Murph from what you've listed.
The Alpinist or the Hammys would be great versatile choices.
“Hamilton Murph 38. (I’m a massive Christopher Nolan fan).” Sounds like an easy decision?
I’d go with the Murph!!
Either of the Seiko's.
Ive owned the Murph and several Hamiltons, they've never lasted long in my collection (Had the Murph less than a week) all due to lack of AR coating and printed flat indices,which made legibility an issue. Also the flat printed dial feels far less "premium" than the Seiko's with applied indices.
TLDR-avoid Hamilton go for Seiko, you get more for the money. (got a SPB147, stunning & tough) buy used!!
So, I would kindly advise you against your selected options for the simple argument that the movements of of all 4 watches are kinda bad. Seiko movements are very reliable but are not accurate at all Hamilton uses a version of a Powermatic 80 which is mostly unserviceable. The watch I would advise falls in the same price category as yours. It is the Tissot 1938 heritage chronometer.
The movement is a chronometer grade eta 2824 which is the gold standard for mechanical time only watches. It is a 50 yo movement which has very good engineering and it is very precise.
The quality of the watch should be at least on par with the price (this is an 800 eur watch, so quite expensive), it has universal design a great movement from a good brand.
Orient and alpinist are both good options. If you can find a used one Christopher Ward is a great option and have divers at 38-42mm and also have the sealander range and military range. They don't have much brand history but are quality Swiss made watches. A used monta is also good but out of your budget I believe.