IWC Mark XVIII vs Mark XX; Changes to the Mark line and how minor details put me off of a beloved watch.
Hi guys!
Just wanted to make a post about the IWC Mark XX. This is one of the instances where super tiny and minor details put me off of a watch. This is one of the watches that I was really looking forward to. I am a big fan of the Mark series. So when IWC announced an update to the line, I was really excited to check it out.
When the Mark XX was released, the specs and changes to the watch were excellent. A more ergonomic case length, 5-day power reserve, in-house movement, and better dial proportions. However, as an owner of a Mark XVIII black dial version, there were a few details that really bugged me. This only applies to the black dial configuration.
Firstly, the date wheel has been changed from a matching black to a white date wheel. Sure it is better placed in the dial, but I just much prefer the matching colour date wheel on the Mark XVIII. Secondly, they changed the colour of the hands, from black to silver. Again, a very minor change but I much preferred the black hands. Lastly, they changed the way the new bracelet is polished. It now has polished links when the previous model had an all-brushed finish. However, the new bracelet is slightly more ergonomic due to having a slight taper which is nice.
I actually mentioned this to my IWC boutique when I was there getting hands-on with the Mark XX and the lady tending to me actually said, this is a known issue at IWC. Many customers feedbacked the exact same issues that I pointed out with the Black dial variant. So I was quite surprised that a big enough group of people voiced their dislike that IWC themselves are aware of internally. Because I don’t think I’ve seen any posts online discussing these small changes. Perhaps I’ve not looked hard enough.
On paper, the Mark XX is a huge upgrade on the Mark XVIII. But these small details put the Mark XX on my must-buy list to a skip. It’s funny how the human brain works and maybe perhaps I’ve just been so used to or attached to how my Mark XVIII looks compared to this new one. If I were to get a Mark XX, it would be the blue dial variant.
Are there instances in your watch collecting journey where small and minor details put you off completely from a watch? Or do you have a similar story to share?
Welcome to my WatchCrunch profile.
🔥
I've yet to really sit down and dissect the minutiae of differences in the details for each iteration of the IWC Mark series, but in a recent conversation with a buddy of mine, he pointed out that part of the joy of owning an IWC mark is that you can buy a version (at least from the Mark XV onwards) from years ago, and nobody will truly know the difference - for better or worse.
Of course, this sentiment might not be shared by all - I can imagine one point of owning any given watch is to have a point of differentiation from the masses of watches out there - but it is an interesting one to ponder when considering this line of watches, and why you're getting into them.
I've yet to really sit down and dissect the minutiae of differences in the details for each iteration of the IWC Mark series, but in a recent conversation with a buddy of mine, he pointed out that part of the joy of owning an IWC mark is that you can buy a version (at least from the Mark XV onwards) from years ago, and nobody will truly know the difference - for better or worse.
Of course, this sentiment might not be shared by all - I can imagine one point of owning any given watch is to have a point of differentiation from the masses of watches out there - but it is an interesting one to ponder when considering this line of watches, and why you're getting into them.
Interesting point. However, I would say the Mark series have looked identical to one another over the years besides the small refinements in design. This is another iteration with minor refinements. Which I think still keeps the identity of the watch. IWC absolutely nailed it with the Mark XX but it's just my own personal gripes with it when it comes to the minute details.
I think if you bought a Mark XX today, most people will still know that it's an IWC Mark/fleiger-style watch. So in that sense, I think they have stuck true to their roots.
I think there is no question about the continuity of the design language. I guess in my mind this continuity is a dual-edged sword: on the one hand, consistency is good; IWC established this precedence and thus can and have doubled down.
However, this very same design language has been aped/ripped off ad nauseum by everyone from Ali Express merchants through to various micro brands. Surely any design change should be sufficiently bold and perhaps aim to stay ahead of the curve?
Small and minor details put me off from a watch all the time. And that's a good thing otherwise I would want to buy more. For example I hate the font on the Rolex/Tudor diver bezels or I hate the 2 round indices on the new Hydroconquest GMT. Small things that 90% of people wouldn't even think about, but big design mistakes that instantly disqualify these watches for me.
I think there is no question about the continuity of the design language. I guess in my mind this continuity is a dual-edged sword: on the one hand, consistency is good; IWC established this precedence and thus can and have doubled down.
However, this very same design language has been aped/ripped off ad nauseum by everyone from Ali Express merchants through to various micro brands. Surely any design change should be sufficiently bold and perhaps aim to stay ahead of the curve?
Mil spec designs, by definition, can't be anyone's intellectual property therefore no one is copying or "ripping off" anyone. The type A/B flieger design is fair use for any manufacturer around the world, just like the W10 or WWW f.e.
I would like a no date every time on a flieger style watch like on my Stowa I sold as I would like a Spitfire if I come across one for the right price
The only problem with the IWC Mark series in my eyes is the slightly “cartoony” numbers font. I wish they’d go back to the more serious style of the older Marks or the Spitfire auto.
in the end it seems a good thing those details that bug you....as you own the Mark XVIII already you will now not be spend extra money on the Mark XX 😎
Btw, regarding the polished center links on the bracelet....I got the Mark XVIII blue LPP that also came with polished 2nd and 4th row center links....I brushed them myself with a piece of Scotch Brite, it´s very easy to do and the result is top.
It’s certainly a matter of taste! I have the XX and while I certainly am aware of earlier models, I wasnt closely following the brand, so the changes don’t bother me.
I can see why the date bothers you, for me it kind of balances out the 9 on the other side. And I’d say the bracelet is as good or better than anything put out by Rolex.
in the end it seems a good thing those details that bug you....as you own the Mark XVIII already you will now not be spend extra money on the Mark XX 😎
Btw, regarding the polished center links on the bracelet....I got the Mark XVIII blue LPP that also came with polished 2nd and 4th row center links....I brushed them myself with a piece of Scotch Brite, it´s very easy to do and the result is top.
I was thinking of maybe using the extra links from my le petit prince chronograph and the mark XVIII to get a full brushed bracelet haha. Will need to sit down and count how many links i need