Sub-40mm GMTs?
I'm looking for a GMT, preferably smaller than 40mm though something right at 40mm might work, and (well) under $1K. Thus far the best candidates I've seen are the Glycine Airman (36mm version, on sale) and Nodus pictured above. I've also seen a Frederique Constant quartz at 40mm, but while I don't mind quartz, it doesn't appeal to me as much as the Glycine and Nodus. And though I'm aware it's said that the Seiko 5 GMTs don't wear as large as the 42.5mm diameter suggests, they still seem a bit chunky for my taste, as I'd be wearing the watch mainly in an office setting.
Am I missing an obvious line of smaller GMTs, or do they just tend to be bigger? Am I wrong about the Seiko 5's wear experience? Any suggestions from the great hivemind would be much appreciated!
Fell down the watch rabbit hole just recently - before, almost never thought about them, now can't go a day without reading or viewing something about watches.
Vaer makes one with a few different color options at $799
Vario have a new 38mm GMT
https://vario.sg/collections/empire-watch-automatic
San Martin comes in at 40mm
BTW if I were voting on the two choices you presented, I would go with the Nodus. A good looking watch!
Lorier Hydra, it is 41mm, but check out their comparison vs the similar sized Tudor GMT.
It's right at 40mm, but this Boldr GMT with a California dial looks good, and it's reasonably thin at 12.7mm.
Traska Venturer GMT - sold out at the moment, but $720 flyer GMT that's 38.5x10mm (without glass), 46mm L2L and 150M water resistance. An excellent option
Sealander
The Lorca Model No. 1 GMT is 36mm. I have this watch and it’s a beautifully designed timepiece — it’s elegant and vintage-inspired, and doesn’t look quite like anything else on the market. Highly recommended.
I believe that Farer also offers a good 36mm GMT watch.
Traska Venturer GMT - sold out at the moment, but $720 flyer GMT that's 38.5x10mm (without glass), 46mm L2L and 150M water resistance. An excellent option
That it’s sold out probably says something about how good it is. Great suggestion!
Actually, two others very much worth considering right at the price point of $1k:
1st up is the Baltic Aquascaphe GMT, 39mm and just at $1k depending on exchange rate.
Second one, and on my own short list for this year (along with the Traska) is the echo/neutra Cortina 1956 GMT. It's 40mm, but a tight 46mm L2L and only 12mm tall. On rubber it comes in just below $1k and on bracelet (and just look at that bracelet) just a bit over. Very obvious omega vibes on this one, and I don't mind that one bit.
If you are willing to brave the grey market I've always been curious about the Oris worldtime options
Any particular style you prefer?
Two recommendations from what I own:
The Nodus Setor GMT is a great little watch and an absolute strap monster. Will totally vouch for this one, and you'll be well under budget.
The Steinhart Ocean 39 GMT in Titanium is just fantastic. You can find the stainless steel ones on the secondary market still, I believe (if you don't like titanium). Good luck finding a better specced and finished Swiss-made watch for the money.
I've never seen the MAEN Hudson GMT in person, but they look great, imo. Worth checking out....
Easy answer: Traska Venturer GMT 38.5mm with a true jump hr GMT movement
Lorier Hydra GMT
That' Lorca is quite lovely! Another brand I didn't know about - there's just too much to keep up with. Sadly I'm also trying to be a cheapskate, but maybe one day. Appreciate it!
Not a problem, and good luck. If you’re willing to be patient, I expect that many more new inexpensive, sub-40mm GMT watches will be released this year (continuing the trend from last year). The inexpensive Miyota 9075 movement continues to be a game changer, and the trend back to smaller, mid-sized watches makes more “small” GMT choices inevitable.
Actually, two others very much worth considering right at the price point of $1k:
1st up is the Baltic Aquascaphe GMT, 39mm and just at $1k depending on exchange rate.
Second one, and on my own short list for this year (along with the Traska) is the echo/neutra Cortina 1956 GMT. It's 40mm, but a tight 46mm L2L and only 12mm tall. On rubber it comes in just below $1k and on bracelet (and just look at that bracelet) just a bit over. Very obvious omega vibes on this one, and I don't mind that one bit.
That echo/neutra is a beauty - again, another brand I didn't know about. I particularly like the teal, and the dials seem kind of lacquered or porcelain. I'm going to to broke in this hobby, aren't I....
If you are willing to brave the grey market I've always been curious about the Oris worldtime options
Since I'm still relatively new to this hobby, I'm not confident enough yet about pre-owned even though I know plenty of people seem to do it satisfactorily. In time!
But with the ghost bezel, different lines, and hour tracks it feels completely different.
Good point - now that I look closely, there are some subtle and not so subtle differences. May be talking myself into getting the entire Lorier line!
Any particular style you prefer?
Two recommendations from what I own:
The Nodus Setor GMT is a great little watch and an absolute strap monster. Will totally vouch for this one, and you'll be well under budget.
The Steinhart Ocean 39 GMT in Titanium is just fantastic. You can find the stainless steel ones on the secondary market still, I believe (if you don't like titanium). Good luck finding a better specced and finished Swiss-made watch for the money.
I've never seen the MAEN Hudson GMT in person, but they look great, imo. Worth checking out....
I'm still finding my way with style. My main two watches are a Lorier Neptune and Sternglas Naos XS. So I guess I tend towards cleaner, office friendly pieces. But I also want to diversify dial styles, so now I'mleaning towards something with (some) numerals for the main indices rather than markers, and maybe a pop of color. Nodus has been on my radar for a while, and I like their design philosophy. I don't have any experience with Steinhart but on first glance they're definitely worth considering. And I've seen reviews of other Maen watches, but either didn't know or forgot they had a GMT. Thanks for the suggestions!
I'll second @bipennate's suggestion.
Traska make 𝙚𝙭𝙘𝙚𝙡𝙡𝙚𝙣𝙩 watches.
I've got a soft spot for the Airman too. If the story / history of a watch is important to you it's hard to beat in the sub $1K category.
The other one I'd mention (though it's 40.5mm 𝙖𝙣𝙙 a little over your budget) is the Mido / Hodinkee GMT.
I've not handled it - but Mido GMT's have a 'best in class' rep for the price point, it's had some pretty good (seemingly independent) reviews and it comes from a solid brand under the Swatch umbrella if that's important to you.
Actually I've got another! - If you're after something with vintage cues you can do a lot worse than the Lorier Hyperion. I've had a V.1 for years and am quite fond it.
39mm X 46mm and well under $1K.
Thanks for all the great suggestions! Consensus does seem to land on Traska - as also reflected by their being out of stock! And I love my Neptune S IV. Trying to diversify on brands and dial formats/styles, but going back to the well is tempting....
The Tudor Black Bay Pro wears large at 39mm, but well on my 16cm wrist. I was wanting for a “big” watch that still fit me well, and it fits the bill! I’m also super into the depth of the dial due to the domed crystal and 3D printed indices.
That echo/neutra is a beauty - again, another brand I didn't know about. I particularly like the teal, and the dials seem kind of lacquered or porcelain. I'm going to to broke in this hobby, aren't I....
Yes, yes you will go broke. But you'll have the nicest watches in the poorhouse! 😂
Good point - now that I look closely, there are some subtle and not so subtle differences. May be talking myself into getting the entire Lorier line!
Join the club lol. Have a Lorier Triptych myself lol. Neptune, Falcon, Hydra.
The Tudor Black Bay Pro wears large at 39mm, but well on my 16cm wrist. I was wanting for a “big” watch that still fit me well, and it fits the bill! I’m also super into the depth of the dial due to the domed crystal and 3D printed indices.
I would love a Tudor! Outside the GMT category, I've seriously considered the Royal (where I rationalized a potential buy based on lower servicing cost of the non-in house caliber - the stories we tell ourselves). But I'm still easing into this hobby and am trying to avoid $1K purchases - for now.....
Join the club lol. Have a Lorier Triptych myself lol. Neptune, Falcon, Hydra.
If I did a Lorier trio (triptych is more apt as there is artistry in them), it would probably be the Falcon and Zephyr in addition to my Neptune. I'm still in the dating phase of collecting and trying to see other brands right now but may come back around....
If I did a Lorier trio (triptych is more apt as there is artistry in them), it would probably be the Falcon and Zephyr in addition to my Neptune. I'm still in the dating phase of collecting and trying to see other brands right now but may come back around....
Yea that's why I call it a triptych too 😂
Interesting - which CW did you get? Have you gotten less enthusiastic about it, or just think there are better choices for the money?
If you spent 1k on watches all the time, I would say sure, snatch it up. But If it’s a stretch, I’d look elsewhere so many people make GMTs these days. I have the sealander 63 gmt with the distressed green dial. The dial is probably the best part. It’s really cool. The case well made. I don’t love the bracelet, it doesn’t seem to fit right and it’s a bit chunky. I’ve got it on their brown leather strap, which is nice. My big issue with it, and it’s not their fault, is the office gmt function. I’m new to collecting, and am still learning what I like. I don’t like the movement that’s in there, or the office GMT function. I’d prefer a true GMT, I believe.
If you spent 1k on watches all the time, I would say sure, snatch it up. But If it’s a stretch, I’d look elsewhere so many people make GMTs these days. I have the sealander 63 gmt with the distressed green dial. The dial is probably the best part. It’s really cool. The case well made. I don’t love the bracelet, it doesn’t seem to fit right and it’s a bit chunky. I’ve got it on their brown leather strap, which is nice. My big issue with it, and it’s not their fault, is the office gmt function. I’m new to collecting, and am still learning what I like. I don’t like the movement that’s in there, or the office GMT function. I’d prefer a true GMT, I believe.
Interesting - I somehow assumed that the Sellita GMT would've been flyer vs caller/office. I don't any experience with GMTs so couldn't say which I prefer, though based in seeing examples and descriptions, I might actually prefer a caller. But we'll see how far I get in my GMT quest. Thanks for sharing your experience!
Sorry if I missed it, but also the Serica gmt is super cool! I got to see them at WindUp.