This Patek is interesting

Despite their ability to make seriously high quality, complicated watches, I never really had any interest in Patek. Obviously way out of my price range and not really my cup of tea.

For some reason, a YouTube video about the Patek 5091 "Sculpture" dropped into my feed. "What's this?", I cried! I had never seen a Patek like this before! It kinda looks like the Nautilus, but it's as if it diverged from the same evolutionary branch a few million years prior. I was intrigued and so with nothing better to do, I jumped down the rabbit hole to learn more.

The 5091 was released in 1999, to celebrate 5 years in the Russian market. 2,700 units were built and distributed in Russia and then the world. Variants came in different dial, case material and band configurations. I like the stainless steel one pictured.

Some basic stats - 37mm case, 46mm L2L, 10mm thick, 315SC movement with approx 48 hours power reserve. To start, how about the case?! A smooth steel bezel draped liquid-like over a shapely case, that is turned down at the ends. About the case ends, these seemed puffed up to give the watch a bigger wrist presence, that one might normally expect from 40mm+ integrated bracelet, sports watches. At least, that's what it looks like to me. Polished surfaces, as far as the eye can see, give this watch a real "bling" factor.

Adding to the larger presence, is the reptile-esque bracelet with its double deployant clasp and shark scale surfaces, reminiscent of bracelets found on TAG S/ELs from the 90s. The centre links form a ridge that extend from one end of the bracelet to the other and join up to the bezel either side, as if part of a single organism. Again more polished surfaces, in case you felt there weren't enough.

The dial is what really go me hooked. It reminded me of my father's old art deco alarm clock.

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The Arabic numerals radially aligned to the centre, giving the watch an old vintage feel, which seems at odds with the case design. A single, raised concentric circle, is an interesting feature and gives extra dimension, on an otherwise plain matte black dial.

To top it all off, the blue-enamelled crown that looks like a miniaturised version of an actual crown. Think the lovechild of the Cartier Cabochon, IWC's Big Pilot conical crown and the Panerai Luminor crown guard.

Many might call this watch crass and ostentatious but typical of late 1990s/early 2000s watch design. For me, it's sparked an interest in a brand that I had only viewed, through the lens of the Nautilus, Calatrava, Aquanaut and other high complication timepieces.

To quote Calvin Candie "You had my curiosity, now you have my attention".

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Very interesting 👏🏻

I’ve never heard of this model family

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I'm not much for hight polish but I'd definitely shake that shit off just to play with that crown.

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NiroZed

Very interesting 👏🏻

I’ve never heard of this model family

I'm convinced there's other hidden gems from this era.

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Like you, $20k is out of my budget. But it somehow feels "affordable" by Patek standards. It has a definite late 90s vibe. I love it! I'm a bracelet whore and love a unique bracelet. And your description of the bezel being "draped liquid like" is spot on.

Thanks for sharing!

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Those double 6 dials trigger me, I can't deal with any watch with them.

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Beautiful watch👌

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dumihed

Like you, $20k is out of my budget. But it somehow feels "affordable" by Patek standards. It has a definite late 90s vibe. I love it! I'm a bracelet whore and love a unique bracelet. And your description of the bezel being "draped liquid like" is spot on.

Thanks for sharing!

This feels like one of those pieces for collectors to collect and not to wear. But it's just so gloriously different from anything else from Patek.

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Not really as I always felt the options were limited to Nautilus, Calatrava etc and I wasn't really interested in the modern iterations of these pieces. But as I dove into this more it appears the 90s were a period of experimentation for Patek. I will definitely look into this era more!

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Love the case and crown but it just looks so darn boring! It's the most textbook field watch dial I've seen!

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SandwichStealer

Love the case and crown but it just looks so darn boring! It's the most textbook field watch dial I've seen!

Isnt that an interesting juxtaposition, in and of itself?

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I like it a lot and your research into the history , but you know what I love, that wackadoodle crown