Review Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712/1A-001 moon phase with blue dial

Patek Philippe - the last independent Geneva watch manufacturer that is still family-owned today. Patek Philippe has been practicing watchmaking in the best Geneva tradition since 1839. Great creative freedom in the design, technical development and production of luxury watches; connoisseurs describe the watch brand Patek Philippe's timepieces as the best in the world - just as the company founders Antoine Norbert de Patek and Jean Adrien Philippe had wished. "A Patek Philippe is never yours alone. You enjoy it for a lifetime, but you actually keep it for the next generation."

The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712/1A-001 Moon Phase with Blue Dial is not the first and only Nautilus in my collection. Nevertheless, it is one of the most beautiful watches that I have ever owned and worn.

Two popular complications, the moon phase and the power reserve indicator, give the nautical-inspired Ref. 5712/1A-001 unique technical charm and set expressive accents on the classic horizontally embossed dial. In the 40.0 x 8.52 large stainless steel case, which is waterproof to 60 meters, the automatic caliber 240 PS IRM C LU ensures precision. The sapphire crystal back on the back reveals the exquisite finish and the decentralized mini rotor made of 22k gold.

Years ago, Gerald Genta described how the Nautilus idea came about as follows: He was sitting in a restaurant during the watch fair in Basel. In the other corner of this restaurant, he observed Patek Philippe employees also eating there. He asked a waiter to give him paper and a pencil and drew the first draft of the clock, which would later be called the Nautilus, in less than five minutes.

The Nautilus collection has been the sports watch par excellence since 1976. This design met with immediate success and is now an undeniable collection of the Patek Philippe dynasty. The wide bezel allows a wide view of the dial as the horizon is visible when viewed through a porthole, and the side lugs, also called “ears,” are inspired by the hinges of these windows. A simple but elegant design that helped Patek Philippe appeal to a large audience of watch lovers. The success of the Nautilus collection has been enormous year after year, also thanks to the new versions that came onto the market with a larger case or a sapphire caseback. It is considered an indispensable timepiece for the lifestyle of men and women as it combines elegance, sportiness and timeless design.

Unpacking a Patek Philippe watch always feels like Christmas. Noble materials, elegant design reveal the value every second. The watch is incredibly easy to wear. It is neither too light nor too heavy. It hugs the wearer's wrist. This is due to both the optimal proportions and the exceptional bracelet. The Nautilus, which Patek Philippe introduced in 1976 as a timepiece with a sporty design and a charismatic personality, is not just a unique watch. It is also perfect for illustrating hand finishing of cases and bracelets and especially polishing techniques. For this watch alone, this includes sandblasting, lapping/sanding, felting, brushing and polishing.

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After machining, 55 additional steps are required to complete the Nautilus case and bracelet. It begins with the preparation of each individual outer link: the undersides are sanded and the tops are satinized. Then the middle links are prepared one after the other: sanding the underside, polishing the top. This is followed by assembling the bracelet: putting the links together and inserting the pins.

Bending is the process of breaking sharp edges, which is then carried out on the bottom and top of the bracelet. Then the bottom and top are satin-finished to achieve a uniform surface finish. The next step is masking: The craftsman covers individual parts of the outside of the bracelet that should not be processed in the following finishing process with a protective varnish or protective film. Then the center links and the beveled edges are polished and ground to a shine. This is followed by assembling the clasp, adjusting the closing tension and riveting the cover (for 3-blade clasps). Everything is checked again during the final inspection.

You can compare the bracelet of the robust, simple Nautilus with that of the decidedly masculine Ref. 5960/1A, a bracelet made up of several rows of striking teardrop-shaped links with the cool shine of polished steel. Its professional finish gives it a flowing suppleness that nestles gently on the wrist, while the individually movable links reflect the light brilliantly. This bracelet is another example of the attention to detail that characterizes the Patek Philippe ateliers and, in particular, the dedication with which each bracelet is perfectly finished.

Conclusion: This is a high-end watch of absolute perfection.