Help On Buying Vintage Watches?

-The Omega lettering looks off as do the minute markers, it could be a redial. That negatively impacts value

-The crown is missing the Omega symbol so it may not be original. Also impacts value.

-I would ask how accurately it is running.

-Ask for picture of the movement and compare the to known examples of the movement to make sure it is a genuine Omega movement and to check condition

-Ask to get a good picture of the inside of the case back. That may have a reference number to figure out model and age. Also if there are initials and data it could give you an idea of how often it has been serviced.

Also the experts at omegaforums.net are very helpful.

Appreciate the comment! I think I'll try to get in contact with the seller and see if I can't get that extra info. Thanks!

@YourIntruder has a beautiful collection of vintage Omegas. His eye for great timepieces is incredible. I recommend bouncing some questions off him. Per understands the market better than most

You are walking into a veritable minefield with vintage Omega.

I would recommend going to the most trusted seller of vintage Omega at this website:

Vintage Omega watch | OMEGA ENTHUSIAST LTD

You can watch his videos on YouTube to get a read on his expertise.

With vintage Omega, you have to buy the seller/dealer. There are way too many redials, frankenwatches, and other problems (including movement issues) to just buy something you see on eBay, Chrono24, or vintage watch web sites. Many of those sellers are not Omega experts and may not be maliciously selling you a less than authentic watch...they might just not know they are doing it.

There are great posts about the pitfalls of buying and collecting vintage.

I would recommend looking at the posts of @Porthole and @Aurelian to educate yourself before laying out your precious cash.

Probably the more knowledgeable @Aurelian and @Porthole can elaborate more on this, but in the world of vintage and especially on Omega vintage, my first advice would be becoming an Omega nerd.

Researching every single reference and every single caliber you come across with, checking and rechecking, and contrasting informations and zooming into pictures and looking at the reverse of casebacks. Try to familiarise yourself with the different collections (De Ville, Constellation, Seamaster, etc.), and how their design language evolved through the decades or at least, focus your effort on a specific decade. If you like the Constellation “Pie Pan”, for example, focus your efforts only on that collection of a specific decade and learn as much as you can about them. Omega is infamous for releasing hundreds of variations for a single model, so it can be a bit too much at times.

On your example, I wouldn’t go for it. The reference number doesn’t “sound” Omega to me and Google doesn’t return anything viable. Not familiar with the 50s model number format though. I wouldn’t trust the seller on this, which is the other valuable advice when vintage. You’re buying the seller.

I'm in the same boat myself, specifically looking for an F300 - I'm very lacking in knowledge too so posted here to follow this thread.

Good Luck 👍🏻👍🏻

Be aware 33mm is very small for modern day watches for men.

Original dials from the 50s will/should show some patina. “Re-dialled” watches are common. They basically keep the hands and indices and replace the main dial. They may look clean and better to the untrained eye, but you lose a LOT of the feeling of originality. Re-dials are therefore far less desirable. They can also be a sign of a fake.

@Porthole did a nice guide to vintage watch buying that lives here.

My ears are burning. Never heard of an 17J Omega cal.254 manual winding movement. Cal.354 is a bumper. No picture either to check, so it’s probably a typo (I don’t default to the negative, I like to give people the benefit of the doubt). I’d request further clarification from the seller.

Don’t - the servicing is a pain.

Worse than £490 & 4 months for my coaxial?

Thank you, any advice greatly appreciated 👍🏻

I paid double the price of entry when my tuning fork diver went on the fritz. I only found one guy in the UK who could do the work. Swap tuning fork for vintage digital or electric, it’s the same issue. It’s different as the coaxial is supported and Omega carry parts, but don’t expect them to carry parts for a movement that didn’t make it past the 1970s.

Don’t be me… I’ve done the time for the crime and now I give back to the community.

I’m not trying to piss on anyones parade here, but the lure of vintage Omega is powerful and makes sensible people do irresponsible things.

Super informative guide, thanks!

Good point about those, that might just not know what they're doing even if they don't have bad intentions. I'll keep that in mind.

Seems like I picked the brand that requires the most work to get into haha! Appreciate the advice though, I'll start reading up and educating myself as best I can!

Bless ya, thank you for such a concise and honest answer. I'll give them a miss, thank you - you've saved me a fortune & by the sounds of it much hassle & heartache.

Much appreciated @Porthole 👍👍

You picked a popular brand that got ridiculously pricey and desirable over the last 10 years. There are some brilliant pieces, but you need to just be aware what you are getting into.