How do you decide if a watch is 'good value' for its price?
With the release of the new Dune x Hamilton watches, I've seen a lot of online debate about whether or not they are 'overpriced'. I have a lot of thoughts on this topic, so I wanted to rebut some of the common sentiments I see echoed on watch forums.
This watch is way too expensive for having a quartz movement!
Yes, it's true that mechanical movements generally cost more to make than quartz movements. But movements usually account for a small fraction of the overall cost of the watch. And if you look at two versions of the same watch model, one with a quartz movement and one with a mechanical movement, you'll see that the price difference between the watches isn't fully explained by the price difference between the movements.
Companies charge more for mechanical watches because they know you are willing to pay more. It's been established in the market (through advertising and purchasing habits) that quartz watches are in a certain price range, and mechanical watches are in another price range.
It's the same thing with paperback and hardcover books. A hardcover usually costs double what a paperback costs, but it doesn't cost twice as much to make. The publishers know that only people who really love books buy hardcovers, and those people are willing to pay more for their books. It's called price discrimination.
This watch is way too expensive for having a third-party movement! This watch is way too expensive for a microbrand that has no heritage! Etc, etc.
Us watch nerds like to believe that the 'value' of a watch is some result of a formula involving its movement, materials, finishing, heritage, and so on. But the truth is, the only real value of a luxury watch is the subjective value of the enjoyment it brings you.
If a $2500 Hamilton x Dune watch brings you more enjoyment than a $4000 Tudor BB58, then I would say you are getting better value from the Dune watch. And if that $2500 is bringing you more enjoyment than spending that money on travel or eating out would have, then that is a good use of your money.
TLDR: Buy watches that bring you enjoyment, and don't let someone else tell you your watch is 'bad value'.
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Thank you for the write up. The value you present is sentimental vs. literal. I will be the first to say, if one drives in the sentimental lane go for it. Someone had to originally pay full price for a Maserati so someone else can pay $20k for it a few years later. There is something awesome about that person, in a masochistic way.
As for literal value; We accept that we are going to pay a premium for a product. Someone took the time to design, source parts, manufacture, market, and distribute a watch. They are entitled to make a profit doing so. Where the literal value comes into play is when the sum of the parts simply do not add up. IE, I will be the first person to critique anyone selling a $1K watch with a NH35. Short of an of artisanal dial, case, and bracelet, no $1000 watch should have a basic $20 movement in it. The market sets a ceiling, and that is what this line is running into at Hamilton. Using an inexpensive movement and LED that can be found on similar watches under $200, one simply cannot get to the other $2300, or even $1000 math wise.
The other challenge; Arguable cooler looking, more well built, and technically challenging watches exist for less to remind us. Example, the Argon Space One. Futuristic watch? Check. Jump hour complication? Check. We can go down the list on quality of case, rubber strap etc. This is $600 less and objectively has stronger components going down the checklist. Is it from Dune? Nope. Might that be all the buyer is looking for so it does not matter? Perhaps.
By all means, buy with the heart. I am all for it, most of the time. We can value silly things, like watches. And if one likes Dune, does not care that the watch will probably be worth 1/3 the price in less than two years because they are never going to sell it, awesome.
There are the other folks who do not want to feel a sense of being ripped off and I cannot blame them. It is a horrible feeling to buy something you are so happy about, only to find out when you got home, it is only worth about 1/2. It can ruin the ownership experience if one lets that get to them.
Now, do not mind me while I go play with the Lotus Emira configurator. 😜
Great insights, thank you connoisseur.
This watch is way too expensive for having a quartz movement!
Omega: “Hold my beer…”
It depends on your definition of value for money. I bought a BB36 for £1850, now it's probably worth £2500, which makes the purchase fantastic value for money. If we are discussing "is a watch worth a sum of it's parts" it certainly isn't. I'm convinced that the San Martin version of the same watch is equally well made, albeit the movement in the Tudor is far better. Of course, it could be argued most watches that aren't a Chinese brand are poor value if we are just talking a sum of it's parts.
In brief, anything is worth what someone will pay.
To each their own, but even as a Dune and Frank Herbert fan, I struggle to see what outfit this watch would pair with apart from cosplay. And if it’s cosplay then you’ll have one piece of your stillsuit costing at least as much as everything else.
I guess we’ll see once people start taking wrist shots. I wonder if the case is meant to get weathered…
Hey Dan,
First of all, good post.
I’m a big fan of Hamilton, I think they listen to their audience and are active in the film making space which gives their watches something more unique.
I also agree that value is inherently subjective. Most watches are expensive and you just go “huh?” While others leave a bad taste in one’s mouth. I think that’s what’s happening with the Dune watch.
Let me ask you, did you look at the spec sheet before looking at the price? No right? You saw the price, balked at it, looked at the specs and balked even more XD. At least, that’s what happened to me and I’d wager my reaction isn’t unique.
Overall, I think it’s a good looking watch. It’s priced very aggressively but I’m sure some in our community will buy it and will love it and I will enjoy their WRUW posts but it’s not for me.