My obsession is time only dress watches with ultra thin movements. I collect mostly vintage watches with a sprinkling of modern. Started with American-made Hamilton tank watches from the mid 20th century and moved on to vintage Longines and Omega. Recently, I've been geeking out over neo-vintage Girard Perregaux.
Absolutely stunning!! Glad you were able to open the dust cover and sneak a peak at the movement. The "damaskeening" on the plates and gold chatons holding the jewels are a sight to behold.
Also to add, the Keystone Watch Case Co. was one of the great American case makers and located in New Jersey. They made cases for all the big American watch companies: Waltham, Hamilton, Elgin etc. The weighing scale mark on the case indicates that it is a gold filled case. The layers of gold on those cases were typically VERY thick, and if the watch wasn't used much, you might not notice any brassing (when the brass underneath starts to show through).
commented onNew Kurono - 34MM Drops Thursday, Is It For You?·
The most classic dress watch ever made, the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96, was 31mm and produced from 1932 to 1973. Their Calatrava ref. 3919, essentially its replacement, made from 1985 to 2006, was upsized to 33.5mm.
Large watches is all about trends and changes in tastes, not in body proportions. In the last 15 years, the watch buying public has been asking for larger watches and watch companies have followed suit in making them. It's not because a full-grown man can't wear a 34mm watch. Even Rolex reintroduced the Explorer at 36mm last year because a smaller case better suited the classic design.
commented onNew Kurono - 34MM Drops Thursday, Is It For You?·
The watches are more homages of vintage timepieces, rather than trying to appeal to small wristed customers in my opinion. 34mm was the standard size for a round man's wristwatch from the 1920s until the 1980s.
While I think the watches are well-designed, I'm not sure I understand the hype of the Kurono Tokyo watches. $1080 seems fairly priced for what it is, but I imagine these watches will end up selling for multiples of that in the secondary market.
This topic reminds me of the ultra complicated pocket watches made by the likes of Patek Philippe prior to WWII. They had so many complications that they needed two dials to read them all so they would still be legible.
A good example is the famous Henry Graves "Supercomplication" made by Patek in 1933 with 24 complications:
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