Why Doesn't Baume & Mercier Get Any Attention From Collectors?

I'm eagerly awaiting my newest purchase; a Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic!! On paper, this watch seems to tick many boxes for watch enthusiasts: 

  1. In-house movement (well, sort of - it's made by ValFleurier, which is Richemont Group's in-house movement maker)
  2. An impressive 5 day (120 hour) power reserve
  3. Magnetic resistance up to 1500 gauss (more than a modern Rolex Milgauss)
  4. Classic, mid-century inspired design for a dress watch

Despite these attributes, a watch like the Clifton Baumatic goes almost unnoticed by the watch loving community. I've been fascinated by the Baumatic since I first learned about it from the Worn & Wound podcast about 2 years ago, so I jumped at the chance to buy one at 50% off from Saks Fifth Avenue. I suppose the absence of interest in B&M watches worked in my favor! 

Anyway, why do we think watch collectors ignore Baume & Mercier? What are your opinions of the brand?

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Mine is the black dial, non-COSC model.

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You asked...

It's aesthetics are kinda meh IMO. Just not something I want to wear. 

Solid specs, sure; but it's just... there. It doesn't pop. 

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A great basic. IMO  They need at least one piece that defines the brand. Nothing stands out and lack of marketing.  Right now, a real value for the $ of you find a watch you like 

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  1. B&M make fine watches, but they’re an entry level watchmaker in a sea of other entry level watchmakers. 
  2. Their watches tend not to hold value and they don’t sell particularly well.  
  3. Their designs are somewhat bland and they don’t have a design that has really resonated with the masses in the same way as say, Hamilton with its Field and Jazzmaster models or Longines with the Spirit, Conquest and Master collections.
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UnholiestJedi

You asked...

It's aesthetics are kinda meh IMO. Just not something I want to wear. 

Solid specs, sure; but it's just... there. It doesn't pop. 

Hahaha "meh" seems to be the general consensus for B&M. I do tend to go for more classically styled dress pieces over field (miltary-inspired) or sports/diving watches, which tend to be more popular these days. 

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TimeJunkie

A great basic. IMO  They need at least one piece that defines the brand. Nothing stands out and lack of marketing.  Right now, a real value for the $ of you find a watch you like 

Agreed that they represent a great value when you consider the pre-owned and gray market prices vs. the quality. I also agree they they suffer from a lack of their own identity without any models that stand out from the crowd.

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JBird7986
  1. B&M make fine watches, but they’re an entry level watchmaker in a sea of other entry level watchmakers. 
  2. Their watches tend not to hold value and they don’t sell particularly well.  
  3. Their designs are somewhat bland and they don’t have a design that has really resonated with the masses in the same way as say, Hamilton with its Field and Jazzmaster models or Longines with the Spirit, Conquest and Master collections.

I would say Longines was in the same boat 5 or so years ago as Baume & Mercier is today. Longines was seen as a bland, department store brand without much identity, but they have done an impressive job transforming themselves into the leader of entry-level Swiss luxury watches (the $1,500 to $2,500 price point). They have created a unique identity centered around recognizing and reinterpreting their long history with their heritage pieces and the new Spirit line. Baume & Mercier needs to figure out a way to reivent themselves, but you make a good point in that there is a lot of competition at that entry level point in luxury watches. 

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fancy_man

I would say Longines was in the same boat 5 or so years ago as Baume & Mercier is today. Longines was seen as a bland, department store brand without much identity, but they have done an impressive job transforming themselves into the leader of entry-level Swiss luxury watches (the $1,500 to $2,500 price point). They have created a unique identity centered around recognizing and reinterpreting their long history with their heritage pieces and the new Spirit line. Baume & Mercier needs to figure out a way to reivent themselves, but you make a good point in that there is a lot of competition at that entry level point in luxury watches. 

I disagree with you, but only to the extent that you call Longines an entry-level watch. I'd consider Longines to be more mid-range.  This is a good example of the hierarchy of Swatch group brands:

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It's weird how some things randomly catch on, and others don't, right?  Dude on the left becomes one of the most famous and richest people on earth...  because he's good at reciting lines from a script, while dude on the right is just as good at reciting lines from a script, but the biggest role he gets after Bosom Buddies is Newhart!

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Ex post, we come up with all these justifications and rationalizations.  "Tom Hanks is one of the greatest talents of our generation!"  But, ultimately, I suspect it's 99.9% random chance / luck.  

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hindsight_bias

Same with Baume & Mercier, I'd wager.

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IMHO, A few brands suffers from what I consider "too much self-esteem". Including, but not limited to, Baume & Mercier. That excess of self-esteem tends to reflect in the price and put them to compete with higher-end brands at a price bracket that doesn't belong to them. Following examples:

  • Baume & Mercier watches should be competing with Longines or Frederique Constant NOT Cartier or Omegas De-Ville;
  • Tag Heuer watches should be competing with Oris NOT Tudor;
  • Bell & Ross watches should be competing with Sinn NOT Breitling;

This list also includes Panerai among others. Of course, that's just my opinion.

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JBird7986

I disagree with you, but only to the extent that you call Longines an entry-level watch. I'd consider Longines to be more mid-range.  This is a good example of the hierarchy of Swatch group brands:

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Perhaps entry level was too harsh lol. But Longines is for me the beginning or entry into the "luxury" watch world.

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thiago

IMHO, A few brands suffers from what I consider "too much self-esteem". Including, but not limited to, Baume & Mercier. That excess of self-esteem tends to reflect in the price and put them to compete with higher-end brands at a price bracket that doesn't belong to them. Following examples:

  • Baume & Mercier watches should be competing with Longines or Frederique Constant NOT Cartier or Omegas De-Ville;
  • Tag Heuer watches should be competing with Oris NOT Tudor;
  • Bell & Ross watches should be competing with Sinn NOT Breitling;

This list also includes Panerai among others. Of course, that's just my opinion.

I do think that is a major issue for Baume & Mercier. They have positioned themselves as a mid-tier luxury brand akin to Cartier, but consummers don't seem to be buying it as judged by their terrible value retention. 

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JBird7986

I disagree with you, but only to the extent that you call Longines an entry-level watch. I'd consider Longines to be more mid-range.  This is a good example of the hierarchy of Swatch group brands:

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He left out the word “luxury.” Many consider Longines an entry level luxury watch brand. Most do not consider Tissot, Hamilton, etc. luxury.

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fancy_man

I do think that is a major issue for Baume & Mercier. They have positioned themselves as a mid-tier luxury brand akin to Cartier, but consummers don't seem to be buying it as judged by their terrible value retention. 

The sad part of this approach is that puts brands with interesting watches in obscurity. 


Usually only for collectors looking for something different or that dusty corner on the duty free.

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Their recent Riviera model update shows potential.

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thiago

The sad part of this approach is that puts brands with interesting watches in obscurity. 


Usually only for collectors looking for something different or that dusty corner on the duty free.

I do tend to go for the watch in the "dusty corner" and the interesting or obscure. Those watches tend to offer more value, not in money, but in enjoyment and horological interest.

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doolittle
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Their recent Riviera model update shows potential.

The newly launched Riviera looks like a unique alternative for those looking for a steel integrated bracelet sports watch.

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Well it came!! I must say I am quite pleased with my purchase. A fun fact, this is the older BM12 movement, with the silicon hairspring and escapement. This was the 1st movement from any Richemont brand (including IWC, Cartier, JLC etc.) to feature silicon components. The movement is also nicely finished with a free sprung balance!

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I really like the Clifton Baumatic and have several B&M watches.  I have the Capeland Chronograph that I purchased 4-5 years ago and the Riviera that I purchased about 20 years ago.  They are as accurate as anything I own.  Both with modified ETA movements I owned the Riviera for 20+ years before it needed service.  The design and style of the watches are very nice but they do not get much love from the enthusiast community.  A great deal in my opinion but don't ever consider reselling.

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Fancy_Man - What is the movement in the Clifton Baumatic?  My capeland has the ETA 7753 and was curious if this movement has the silicon hairspring and escapement?

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vesnyder

Fancy_Man - What is the movement in the Clifton Baumatic?  My capeland has the ETA 7753 and was curious if this movement has the silicon hairspring and escapement?

Hello, the movement in my Clifton Baumatic is the in-house caliber BM12-1975A. I don't think Baume & Mercier used silicon components in their other movements, just their in-house ones.

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fancy_man

Well it came!! I must say I am quite pleased with my purchase. A fun fact, this is the older BM12 movement, with the silicon hairspring and escapement. This was the 1st movement from any Richemont brand (including IWC, Cartier, JLC etc.) to feature silicon components. The movement is also nicely finished with a free sprung balance!

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I just saw the white dial one of this today.  How do you find it after 4 months?  thanks

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Dzyknior

I just saw the white dial one of this today.  How do you find it after 4 months?  thanks

Hello! Sorry for the very late reply, I haven't been on in a while lol. I'm still very thrilled with the watch! It keeps pretty dead on accurate time (1-2 seconds fast per day). It does run that accurately over the full duration of the power reserve (5 days). Did you end up buying it?

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Thanks for your reply didn't end up buying it. Got a Longines Spirit instead.