At what price should our standards drop?

I just saw a video by Bruce WIlliams on the Black Bay 39.

(This video: https://youtu.be/Bav_NjIcy9Y?si=xxKB4RJrOSt71GXR)

He states that under the macro lens there are some imperfections, and for lack of a better term, brushes this off as par the course for a watch in this price range (~$4,000).

Are my expectations set too high to assume that a watch in that price range should be free and clear of imperfections?

To be clear, I don't mean to isolate Tudor. If you know me, I love Tudor probably twice as much as the next guy (I bought seven in the last two years). I am speaking about all expensive watches.

I'd be upset if a $1,000 watch had a speck on the dial. And if you really want to get down to it, I'd even be upset at an imperfect $300 watch. No matter how much money I make, I will consider that to be a higher priced watch, because it doesn't cost anything to care about basic levels of quality control.

Some clarification: I'm not talking about under a microscope. I'm talking about either via close inspection with the naked eye or easily with a macro lens.

Are we being conditioned into lowering our standards or am I being too nitpicky... I am a degenerate after all.

Reply
·

If you need a loupe to see an imperfection on a watch costing under $5K, it's not really an issue. You shouldn't be expecting that level of detail from a mass produced consumer good. Look at a $70K car with a loupe and you'll find imperfections...

If it visible to the naked eye, then there is some nuance depending on how visible, and at what price.

·

If it's not visible to the naked eye is it actually there?

Too many go out of their way to find unseen things by using high powered loupes and macro photography and then,once they see it under high magnification , it sticks in their heads that there's a flaw, even when invisble to the naked eye.

·

I agree. At 4k that watch better not have any cosmetic issues at all

·

Everything has flaws.

·

I don’t think our standards should drop, but I also don’t think we should be looking under a loupe trying to find imperfections.

·
foghorn

If it's not visible to the naked eye is it actually there?

Too many go out of their way to find unseen things by using high powered loupes and macro photography and then,once they see it under high magnification , it sticks in their heads that there's a flaw, even when invisble to the naked eye.

True. It's a mixture of managing my expectations and respecting the value of my money. I don't know if I'm expressing that properly. I'm not smart... lol

·

Oooooo this is a tough one. Par course is probably a bad phrase used I’d say. I mean the person who’s saved to buy the dream piece @7k for example should not inadvertently expect an inferior finish on a watch costing 14k(again for example).. In answer to your question i think I think whether it cost £300 or £1500 it should be bang on the money. Perfect to the best as possible for that target watch consumer. I think many of the watch brands out there pride themselves and their craftsmanship enough to produce the best they can, and position it well.

The comment made by Bruce on Tudor in short is bollocks as far as I’m concerned. We know they were initially a rebrand designed for the affordable watch market but them at was along time ago. But hey, that’s what makes it all so interesting🤷🏻great topic by the way🤝

·
jpcskeff

Oooooo this is a tough one. Par course is probably a bad phrase used I’d say. I mean the person who’s saved to buy the dream piece @7k for example should not inadvertently expect an inferior finish on a watch costing 14k(again for example).. In answer to your question i think I think whether it cost £300 or £1500 it should be bang on the money. Perfect to the best as possible for that target watch consumer. I think many of the watch brands out there pride themselves and their craftsmanship enough to produce the best they can, and position it well.

The comment made by Bruce on Tudor in short is bollocks as far as I’m concerned. We know they were initially a rebrand designed for the affordable watch market but them at was along time ago. But hey, that’s what makes it all so interesting🤷🏻great topic by the way🤝

To be fair, he didn't exactly say "par the course", but did say that these small imperfections are normal for watches under $5000. That is where I completely disagree with him. I try to be as flexible as I can with standards but I can't be that flexible.

Appreciate the discussion. As always there is no right answer; good to hear others thoughts on it🍻

·
degenerateWA

To be fair, he didn't exactly say "par the course", but did say that these small imperfections are normal for watches under $5000. That is where I completely disagree with him. I try to be as flexible as I can with standards but I can't be that flexible.

Appreciate the discussion. As always there is no right answer; good to hear others thoughts on it🍻

100%👍

·
KristianG

If you need a loupe to see an imperfection on a watch costing under $5K, it's not really an issue. You shouldn't be expecting that level of detail from a mass produced consumer good. Look at a $70K car with a loupe and you'll find imperfections...

If it visible to the naked eye, then there is some nuance depending on how visible, and at what price.

True. No right answer here I think. I'm more asking myself the question: "at what point am I being a blind fanboy and when am I being too nitpicky?"

Good discussion🍻

·

One can put a $10k GS under a loupe and find imperfections. Almost every watch has something if you look under a 5X+ loop.

·

You make the assumption the flaws are necessarily bad. They are part of the character of the watch especially when not visibly to the naked eye.

·

We've already given Seiko a pass on poor QC, let's not add Tudor to that list as well.

·

After so many seikos with misaligned somethings, i have been conditioned to let anything under 1,000 usd have a slight imperfection. Higher than that, i am very nitpicky 🧐

I even found a qc issue with my newly acquired longines spirit zulu time 😁

·

I hope and pray no one ever looks at me with a macro lens. They definitely won’t like what they’ll find…and I’m cheap 🤣

·
AllTheWatches

One can put a $10k GS under a loupe and find imperfections. Almost every watch has something if you look under a 5X+ loop.

Correct. It's only a question of the magnification. There are simple limits as to what can be accomplished. Ink might run slightly on textured dial. Machining marks can be reduced, but are often visible with enough effort. Small parts of paint may break off the dial during installation. Watch hands are particularly tricky.

·

Below the bargain range of $70 ish I don't expect much. It more or less just needs to work 🤣

·
kbeightyseven

Tudor have never been known to be great with qc or even build quality, I have owned 3 as I get bit by the hype, but never been super impressed and sold each of them, the finishing on the handsets is terrible, never mind dust. debris

Unfortunately, i have seen some terrible examples.

Fortunately I have been lucky.

·

im kinda dissappointed too when i bought an omega speedmaster. for 6000$ it has a few flaws that i recognized sharp edge on case and buckle, also misalligntment on the chrono hand but what can i do lol.

·
Unholy

im kinda dissappointed too when i bought an omega speedmaster. for 6000$ it has a few flaws that i recognized sharp edge on case and buckle, also misalligntment on the chrono hand but what can i do lol.

I said this earlier and I think it applies here:

"I don't think it's so extreme as to ruin the entire experience, but I also think there's room to point out flaws while still coming out with a net positive."

Too many people feel like they are bound to only have positive reactions towards a watch because it should be that way. I don't think it has to be so black and white. I can enjoy 95% of a watch; that's still an "A". I can also strive for a 100%. It really does just depend on the situation, person, etc.

·
Fieldwalker

Yikes! Guess I got lucky!

Can’t find anything but perfection, even with a loupe, on my 3 GSs 😅.

I can tell you it’s 100% hats, masks, and gowns, in a dust free ‘operating’ room, where the GS movements are built and watches are put together.

Shizukuishi is the most anti dust and diligent watchbuilding studio I’ve ever seen, IRL and videos

Wonder if that ‘older’ video above is when GS was made in their old facility? 🤔

Image
Image

But entropy reigns supreme, so I’m sure it’s possible.

Personally, I’d be annoyed at dust or imperfections in my pricey watches, less so for $1k and under.

Dust in a new $5k+ watch is going back to the dealer the next day, if it was me.

But , My 900 buck Alpinist has a slight bit of text that isn’t quite perfect..that I can only see with a loupe.

And it’s a watch under $1k - so it’s forgiven! 😘. Love you Ginza!

Image

I inspect with a 3x loup mostly, 7x when I want extreme detail.

Oh I know! Some are much better than others. I was using GS simply because someone else brought them up, but we could swap them with any other brand making a highly finished product. I try never to get too close with my lenses! :-)

·

I use this often. Not to find flaws rather to appreciate the beauty of the watches we collect

Image
·

Like most things, for me its a sliding scale. If you are going to be a watch manufacturer, there are certain things that you just need to get right. The basics. The more a watch costs, the more I expect to be perfect. At $4000, there is a LOT I would expect to be perfect! Once I get to about $1500, I would expect essentially whatever is in that watch to be 100% - alignment, no material under the dial, consistent lume, etc. Above $1500, I expect just more in the actual watch, in terms of finishing or movement or complications. Whatever I buy at around the $1500 price point or above, that should be just right.

·

With anything if you look hard enough you will find faults.

·

Bruce Williams is too nit picky imo

·
KristianG

Good luck with that. I suggest not buying a loupe...

I Suggest not wasting $4K on a watch that has blemishes on a dial that shouldn't be there. $4K warrants high level QC, point blank

·
Tastygravy

With anything if you look hard enough you will find faults.

I don't disagree. Being hard to find is key. Personally I dont consider a quick zoom with a camera or close inspection hard.

·
degenerateWA

Damn I woke up to some crazy amount of notifications🍻🍻🍻 (Daddy are you proud of me???? 🤣)

To be clear, I understand that everything looks different under a strong microscope.

I am not referring to that level of scrutiny.

I'm speaking more of things that are noticeable with the naked eye at very close inspection or under a "regular" macro lens (which magnifies things still visible to the naked eye).

Sure these things aren't noticeable at a glance or from a few feet away, but for myself personally, paying for unseen expected quality is part of the enjoyment I get from spending a lot of money on a watch.

God why am I so f*cking stupid...

I understand, but seriously 4k is not alot of money for a watch..JMO, Try to enjoy the hobby..

·
Ls9009

I understand, but seriously 4k is not alot of money for a watch..JMO, Try to enjoy the hobby..

IMO, that's a weak outlook on the subject. A bit too low of a standard for me. Reasonable quality control is not difficult to achieve. Any man with half an ounce of pride in their work can achieve this. A perfect watch isn't reasonable, but something as simple as a clean dial is.

Good talk👍

·
degenerateWA

IMO, that's a weak outlook on the subject. A bit too low of a standard for me. Reasonable quality control is not difficult to achieve. Any man with half an ounce of pride in their work can achieve this. A perfect watch isn't reasonable, but something as simple as a clean dial is.

Good talk👍

I cerainly agree with you there..Sadly it seems everything is twice as expensive as the quality is going down...JMO.Have a terrific week..