Review: Ocean 39 Metropole (The Lesson I Learned)
This watch taught me one of the most important lessons for collecting. You hear it from others, but until a watch teaches you, it doesn't feel the same. But first, let's set the context.
Steinhart was founded by Jörg Steinhart in 2001 and is known for producing high-quality, affordable timepieces that are inspired by vintage designs. Steinhart watches are popular among a wide range of watch enthusiasts, including collectors, enthusiasts, and casual wearers who are looking for a high-quality timepiece at an affordable price. Steinhart's watches are known for their classic styling and vintage-inspired designs, which appeal to those who are interested in vintage watches. At the same time, the company's watches also feature modern updates and are powered by reliable Swiss-made movements, which makes them appealing to those who are looking for a more modern timepiece.
It's always good to get the know the founder so here's a cool interview video. He talks about his motivation for creating his company: that everyone deserves to own a quality Swiss manufactured watch. It's interesting to note that they have 3 watchmakers on site. Seeing the site of manufacturing is always fascinating.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UB8nv0x8D1w&t=118s
You know the old saying, buy the seller more than the watch? That's what led me to their website. All this talk on Youtube about the incredible finishing and value of their watches. "This GMT watch punches WAY above it's price!". "I FINALLY got a Steinhart!" Such praise for a brand, other than Rolex? Needless to say I was intrigued.
What really caught my eye was that Steinhart watches were often selling for more than their retail price. Not every piece of course, but some of their discontinued models were clearly priced above retail. I don't regard any watch as an "investment" but it was reassuring to my financial side.
See that picture above? The red really popped for me. And if you've seen my other review on the Sternglas, you know colorful dials are a thing for me. It caught my eye. But you wonder about the specs? Well, of course we are collectors after all. So here are the details:
Those numbers above eventually taught me quite a lesson. More on that later. But what caught my eye then was the movement.
It was a Swiss made Sellita SW200-1 Elabore grade. I confess that I had to look up the meaning of that grade (Adjusted to 3 positions to accuracy of +/-7 sec/day up to +/- 20 sec/day). It was all rather impressive. Swiss made, 3 positions! One reference noted: "The SW200 is a Swiss-made movement that is similar to the ETA 2824-2 in many ways, including its dimensions, construction, and performance. It has 25 jewels, a power reserve of approximately 38 hours, and an operating frequency of 28,800 beats per hour. The movement is decorated with Côtes de Genève and has a rotor that is engraved with the Sellita logo."
And the price was very reasonable. One might even say seductive. We all know that siren song.
And one final thing caught convinced me to pull the trigger. It was the lug width of 20mm. I told myself, "Can you imagine the straps that might go with this watch?". The possibilities were hanging in the air!
The wait is always interminable, unbearable, right? You click that tracking link everyday hoping it would speed the journey. "Are we there yet?" And then it arrived. That moment when you unbox the watch and see in reality all your hopes and dreams. Will it live up to all those expectations?
And it did not. I felt underwhelmed. Was that it? It looked so .. well small. I'm no Invicta fan but .. was that it? It was as if the watch had shrunk during the trip. So I placed it in my box and went about my day. I'd also received other watches and wore those to hide my disappointment.
You see, there was a serious problem with the watch. The clasp was quite frankly problematic. It was difficult to fully close it. It resisted my efforts. I truly expected more from a "quality Swiss manufacture".
So you say, that's it! That's the lesson correct? You must always try on a watch before buying. Come now, we all know that! That's the risk that you take online. You should have returned it immediately.
No, that wasn't the lesson. Because I started to wear the watch more and more. With each passing day, it was harder and harder to keep this watch off my wrist. What was happening? I had been disappointed in that first moment. In fact, I'm wearing the watch even now as I write this review. I couldn't understand it.
When Douglas Adams wrote The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy, he added a central joke which has become more famous over the years than the novel itself: "The answer to the ultimate question of life, the universe and everything is 42."
Yes, that was it! I had a similar epiphany. My answer to the life of watch collecting was 39. As in mm. Yes, thinking over my entire watch collections, it suddenly dawned on me that only the dials 39mm in size were calling out to me. It seemed so trivial and yet so important! The Metropole was 39mm of perfection for me. Of course, it helped that there were female end links.
The watch felt like it would wrap itself around my wrist, that it belong there. And then disappear. I hate to draw on another trope, but when you forget it's there you know it's the right one. I had to resist it's allure to try on my other watches. The temptation was there every morning.
Now, this has been a truly liberating experience for me. For that was the lesson. 39mm and no more! It's become so easy to dismiss other watches and save myself the money. The loss of many options for dial size has ironically been a liberation for me. I'm no longer tempted by so many watches. Eh, but it's 41mm? No thanks!
Now, anyone interested in buying some lightly used amazing quality watches with dials 40mm and above? PM me immediately!
Review: Ocean 39 Metropole (The Lesson I Learned)
Yes
No
- Beautiful Red Dial
- Great Quality for the Money
- 39mm!
- The clasp is poor
- They need to redo the clasp
- Did I mention the clasp?
Son of a watchmaker. Artsy farsy dude.
Beautiful review.
After reading this, i‘m very glad i recently ordered a 39mm watch and maybe experience something similarin the future. Thanks for the good read.
Well done👌 sir!!! I'm currently trying to nail down my watch #. Here's my new year thoughts. Smooth Bezel-38-39mm, Dive Bezel-40mm, Chronograph-41mm.
I have the Steinhart premium 39 and love it. Great buy!
Beautiful review.
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it.
After reading this, i‘m very glad i recently ordered a 39mm watch and maybe experience something similarin the future. Thanks for the good read.
It was unexpected but a great lesson.
Well done👌 sir!!! I'm currently trying to nail down my watch #. Here's my new year thoughts. Smooth Bezel-38-39mm, Dive Bezel-40mm, Chronograph-41mm.
Great specs!
I have the Steinhart premium 39 and love it. Great buy!
Steinhart really does make a great watch!
Tell us more about why you don’t like the clasp, I don’t think that came through enough…
Tell us more about why you don’t like the clasp, I don’t think that came through enough…
You had to press really hard to get a positive click. Much more than should have been necessary.
You had to press really hard to get a positive click. Much more than should have been necessary.
Is this something affecting your watch alone, or is this a common complaint throughout the model? Once in place does it work it’s way loose? Is this a progressive problem or was it always this way? Did you buy the watch new and therefore is it covered under warranty? Did you reach out to Steinhart?
Is this something affecting your watch alone, or is this a common complaint throughout the model? Once in place does it work it’s way loose? Is this a progressive problem or was it always this way? Did you buy the watch new and therefore is it covered under warranty? Did you reach out to Steinhart?
I doubt it's common. Steinhart has a stellar reputation for quality. I decided to keep it that way since over time it may loosen up.
I doubt it's common. Steinhart has a stellar reputation for quality. I decided to keep it that way since over time it may loosen up.
Do you find it ironic when you say the brand has a good reputation for quality yet your clasp is clearly subpar? At least you didn’t give it 5/5 for quality, so it’s a lot more impartial than others.
To be honest, I‘m finding the dial a little bit disconcerting - the photos seem to show the 3-6-9 switching from steel to black depending on the angle, and under bright lights it’s quite a garish shade of red. I imagine this is a little more subtle under natural light, but it’s not a comfortable dial to my eyes from the photos taken. Perhaps I need an eye test. On the other hand, it’s seems to be a very functional steel sports at 39mm, and the elabore model of the Sellita is a nice touch compared to just the standard version.
Do you find it ironic when you say the brand has a good reputation for quality yet your clasp is clearly subpar? At least you didn’t give it 5/5 for quality, so it’s a lot more impartial than others.
To be honest, I‘m finding the dial a little bit disconcerting - the photos seem to show the 3-6-9 switching from steel to black depending on the angle, and under bright lights it’s quite a garish shade of red. I imagine this is a little more subtle under natural light, but it’s not a comfortable dial to my eyes from the photos taken. Perhaps I need an eye test. On the other hand, it’s seems to be a very functional steel sports at 39mm, and the elabore model of the Sellita is a nice touch compared to just the standard version.
The switch from steel to black was exactly why I bought the watch. Yes, it changes color depending on the light. It's a sign of high polish.
As for the clasp, I understand statistics. One sample doesn't represent the whole. No irony there. Their reputation was built over years with many watches. I'm surprised you haven't heard of them before. Steinhart is well known in the watch community.
The switch from steel to black was exactly why I bought the watch. Yes, it changes color depending on the light. It's a sign of high polish.
As for the clasp, I understand statistics. One sample doesn't represent the whole. No irony there. Their reputation was built over years with many watches. I'm surprised you haven't heard of them before. Steinhart is well known in the watch community.
Wherever did you pick up the notion I had not heard of Steinhart? I’m pretty sure I never said anything of the sort. Oh well… I’ll stop asking questions now, and leave you to wrestle with the difficult strap. You might understand statistics, but you don’t seem to see the irony of your statement, but that’ll teach me to engage with content because I’m clearly just an idiot.
Good review. I have owned a few Steinharts over the years and still own a 39mm version of the Vintage GMT. They are indeed excellent watches for the price, but not without fault. I find the cases are a little flat, and although the clasps are OK, they are quite ordinary. A better clasp would cost very little extra. Apart from that everything is good. The case finishing is excellent, the bracelet is well finished and comfortable, the movements always arrive running very accurately, and there are designs to suit most people. I paid £450 new for this, which I consider excellent value.
Good review. I have owned a few Steinharts over the years and still own a 39mm version of the Vintage GMT. They are indeed excellent watches for the price, but not without fault. I find the cases are a little flat, and although the clasps are OK, they are quite ordinary. A better clasp would cost very little extra. Apart from that everything is good. The case finishing is excellent, the bracelet is well finished and comfortable, the movements always arrive running very accurately, and there are designs to suit most people. I paid £450 new for this, which I consider excellent value.
I've got my eye on the same vintage GMT. That color really gets to me. And absolutely, if they improved the clasp, the brand would get much higher reviews. I really want them to do this.
I've got my eye on the same vintage GMT. That color really gets to me. And absolutely, if they improved the clasp, the brand would get much higher reviews. I really want them to do this.
The one you see is the OLKO addition. It has the white indices, which I prefer. Unfortunately it has the cyclops, which I don't like. To be fair, the clasp isn't a bad clasp, it just isn't a great clasp. Hope you can pick one up for a good price, you will enjoy it
Enjoyed the read and photography. Yep, 38-40mm. Nothing outside that has never stuck for me.
Enjoyed the read and photography. Yep, 38-40mm. Nothing outside that has never stuck for me.
Yup. It's easy for me now to pass up watches outside my size range. Saving me lots of money and I don't have any angst about it.
Great review mate. Didn't want it to end 😂.
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it. I'll be reviewing more watches soon :-).
Good review. I have owned a few Steinharts over the years and still own a 39mm version of the Vintage GMT. They are indeed excellent watches for the price, but not without fault. I find the cases are a little flat, and although the clasps are OK, they are quite ordinary. A better clasp would cost very little extra. Apart from that everything is good. The case finishing is excellent, the bracelet is well finished and comfortable, the movements always arrive running very accurately, and there are designs to suit most people. I paid £450 new for this, which I consider excellent value.
That's the OLKO Special Edition, no? It is my FAVORITE watch and sees the most wrist time by far. 👍
That's the OLKO Special Edition, no? It is my FAVORITE watch and sees the most wrist time by far. 👍
Ironically I just sold it, and this why. I bought a Seestern version of the same watch, but the indices are patinad and it has no Cylops. Aahh you may say, but it's Chinese, against the fact the Steiny is Swiss made. The case is actually brushed on the Seestern, which I prefer, it has no crown guards and a larger crown. The clasp has an on the fly adjustment system, and the lume is far superior. Other than the better movement in the Steiny (the Seestern has an NH34) it's technically a better watch, and costs about 40% of the price. They are both homages at the end of the day, and the Seestern has scratched the itch
If it floats your boat, GREAT! I, however, have no faith in the Chinese stuff...especially when it comes to water resistance. Anybody can print anything on a dial, y'know?
That said, your Seestern looks nice. I'm not personally a fan of fauxtina, and I certainly like the look of the Steiny MUCH better, but that is why the world is awash in watches! To each his own.
But I'd certainly disagree that it is "technically a better watch." 😉
If it floats your boat, GREAT! I, however, have no faith in the Chinese stuff...especially when it comes to water resistance. Anybody can print anything on a dial, y'know?
That said, your Seestern looks nice. I'm not personally a fan of fauxtina, and I certainly like the look of the Steiny MUCH better, but that is why the world is awash in watches! To each his own.
But I'd certainly disagree that it is "technically a better watch." 😉
It's not a Chinese watch,it's swiss made... please do your research in future
It's not a Chinese watch,it's swiss made... please do your research in future
Seestern is Swiss made!? 😂
Oh. Okay. 🙄
Ummmmm, I did my research. Their main office is in Shenzhen, China.
And here, have a read;
https://thenorthernwatchco.com/2022/05/29/seestern-grand-seiko-homage-worth-a-look/
Great review, can the bracelet be changed to an aftermarket strap? If so could be a real winner
Great review, can the bracelet be changed to an aftermarket strap? If so could be a real winner
Steinhart sent me a replacement clasp which worked fine. I also bought another watch from them and requested a replacement clasp. So if you run into this problem, I think you're fine.
I have had a lot of Steinhart watches over the last few years and they have always been supremely accurate but I have to agree about the quality of the clasps on their bracelets. My favourite was a 47mm bronze fleiger with a hand wound Valjoux (?) movement.