A Week On The Wrist: my Rolex Explorer 124270

I’ve long been smitten with the 36mm Explorer, and specifically the revered reference 1016. Knowing my budget would never allow for one of those, I eventually found myself down the 14270 rabbit hole. Tritium? Check. Lug holes? Check (depending on age). Modern build quality? More or less. That last bit had me a bit worried. I wanted a watch that I could wear, without worrying about knocking lume loose or doing anything else to essentially render it an unoriginal, worthless franken. So the 112470 started to look like the best choice for me. But that clasp! Oh how I hate the embossed oyster link motif of those older bracelets… Oh well, at this stage it was all a pipe dream anyway. Maybe the market would tank and I could pick up the matte dial 1016 of my dreams in only a handful more years!

Fast forward to April 2021, when we all know what Rolex did: re-release the Explorer in its classic 36mm size, with all the modern fixings. I still was nothing more than an admirer and not in a position to buy, but I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t excited.

I start thinking a little more seriously about it. With some big professional milestones coming up, why shouldn’t I treat myself to the watch I’ve lusted after for the last several years? Of course, that would mean finding a dealer who would actually sell to me. I set out on my quest, and put my name on my two local AD’s lists. The first was rather dismissive, but the second gave me a good feeling. I told him I understood the situation, but had my heart set on this watch to commemorate what was to come. Before taking my info, he asked if I’d been able to try one on yet. I had tried a pre-owned 1/14270 (I forget which it was) on about two years ago and it completely floored me. He wanted to make sure I didn’t mind the extra bracelet taper, and went into the back and brought out a two tone (this watch was already spoken for)! It felt perfect. I gave him my name, number, and address, said thanks, and left feeling a bit more confident that I would get to buy this watch.

After a mere two weeks, the sales associate calls me. “Do you want to go Exploring this weekend? I have a steel and gold model here with your name on it.” Not gonna lie, my heart sank a little. “I’ll try and make it in later this week to give it another look.” Don’t get me wrong - the two tone Explorer is a great looking watch in the metal, it just wasn’t the right watch for me.

I made it to the AD the next day. I sat down as my associate brought a Rolex box out on a Rolex tray and before he could open it I had to tell him I likely wouldn’t be buying it. “That’s ok, I know you really wanted the steel model. Just check it out, we’ll see what you think.” I put it on, and although I still like it I’m pretty sure it’s not for me. “Do you have anything else in the back in 36mm and all steel? An OP or a smooth bezel Datejust?” He goes into the back,  and comes out with a foam Rolex coffin. As he’s pulling the watch out, I see the model number: 124270.  I start breathing a little more quickly. “This should be a great comparison.”

I put on the all-steel Explorer and instantly know it’s the right one. I slide it off, and hold it side-by-side with the two tone in my palm. What a sight! “Do you mind if I take a picture of the two together?“ Figured I’d ask in case the store is worried about serial numbers getting out or anything like that. “Actually I do,” says my sales associate, “because if you want the steel one then that’s your watch.” My jaw would have hit the floor if it wasn’t for the surgical mask covering my mouth. I couldn’t believe it! There I was, ready to walk out empty handed and feeling like I’d just left my chance at Explorer ownership on the table, only now I got to wear one home!

That was 12/28, and I’ve worn it every day since. I spent the first 24 hours laughing in disbelief every time I glanced at my left wrist, and now it just feels like it’s always been there. The watch gained 2 seconds in that first day, and zero since then. The bracelet taper feels perfectly natural, and accentuates the vintage look on wrist. The 36mm diameter (I haven’t actually measured it myself, but I know it’s a tad smaller) feels ideal on my 6.5” wrist, hides easily under a flannel cuff, and has just enough polished details to keep my eyes drawn in.

A week later, and I’m still having a hard time articulating exactly what I feel about this watch. The unobtrusive size and simple design, combined with the surreal (in a good way!) purchasing experience at the AD makes the whole thing feel…anticlimactic? But in a perfect way. I keep thinking about Gary Shteyngart, and how he said William Gibson called the 1016  “the platonic ideal of a wristwatch.” Well if the 1016 is that, then the 124270 is the luxury update and I’m over the moon with it.