Watch Finishing – Good vs. Ok vs. Bad
Greetings wise and knowledgeable watch enthusiasts!
I’m sure many of us have read, watched and heard about watch finishing and how good or bad it is on a watch.
I’m still learning and appreciating this aspect of watch collecting. So I’m very curious about what constitutes good vs. ok vs. bad finishing on a watch?
Especially with so much watch media, I think we get exposed to many examples of good and even great watch finishing. So personally I’m curious about the opposite end where we have watches that are badly finished. I think having a basis of comparison helps to better appreciate and enjoy watches that are well finished.
I suppose there are some examples where a piece is very obviously beautifully and intricately finished? I’m thinking guilloche, Clous de Paris (hobnail pattern), Cotes de Geneve (Geneva stripes), engraving, etc.
Bonus points if it is hand crafted and finished by a skilled artisan / craftsperson. I can think of Grand Seiko’s Zaratsu polishing, or examples of rose engine turning to achieve a beautiful guilloche pattern.
There are also more subtle styles of finishing? I’m thinking of mirror polished or satin / hairline brushed surfaces on a piece. My current understanding is that these are some of the more common types of finishing that you find on watches of decent quality?
So fellow Crunchers and watch enthusiasts, what are some of your favourite examples of beautiful or simply competent watch finishing?
Do you have horror stories with watches with bad or flawed finishing?
Examples with pictures are highly encouraged!
I look forward to learning more from you all on this topic!
Very much into Science Fiction. Dune, Warhammer 40K, Star Wars, Battlestar Galactica. Recently got started into collecting watches. JLC, Zenith, Hamilton, Jung Hans, Casio.
Good question. These are my preferences:
Brushing: the finer the better, the more consistently parallel or concentric, the better.
Polishing: the shinier the better, the more consistent the better. I.e. A flat surface gives an undistorted reflection, a curved surface gives a consistently distorted reflection.
Applied markers: geometrically correct position and angle. Polished, not scratched.
Hands: consistent brushing or polishing, sharp angles, no burrs from pressing, consistent colour, be they heat blued or painted.
Printing: crisp not smudged.
Here's an example. I've been really impressed by Glycine's finishing for the price - fine brushing and nice high polish. Also the really fine sunburst and nicely polished hands.
In addition to the first commenter, on the movement, anglage or chamfering is an indication of finish quality because it takes time tonl do it. You might be able to start with a machine but it has to be hand finished.
Bad angle, but the edge of the 3/4 plate has a polished edge. The wider the edge, the "better" it is. Internal, sharp angles are tougher to champfer, so that's an indication of skill and time taken.
Also in the pic is what many in Glaschutte do, which is a hand engraved balance cock instead of a bridge. This takes time and can't machine it.
You can see also the brushed finishing on the 3/4 plate in this pic too. How fine the brushing is is a sign of quality.
Good question. These are my preferences:
Brushing: the finer the better, the more consistently parallel or concentric, the better.
Polishing: the shinier the better, the more consistent the better. I.e. A flat surface gives an undistorted reflection, a curved surface gives a consistently distorted reflection.
Applied markers: geometrically correct position and angle. Polished, not scratched.
Hands: consistent brushing or polishing, sharp angles, no burrs from pressing, consistent colour, be they heat blued or painted.
Printing: crisp not smudged.
Here's an example. I've been really impressed by Glycine's finishing for the price - fine brushing and nice high polish. Also the really fine sunburst and nicely polished hands.
Thank you for sharing.
I just realised that I for one have been focusing a lot on the finishing of the dial, case and bracelet.
The finishing of the indices / markers, hands and markers are just as important!
One additional thing of note. I really like it if they add some detail around the date window, such as your how Glycine has a nice white border around it. Its a nice way to draw attention to the date.
Finishing is something you have to see in person. It’s really difficult to capture the true effect of finishing in photos. Macro shots help, but it’s the finer details and how it all comes together on the physical product that you truly appreciate the finishing.
In addition to the first commenter, on the movement, anglage or chamfering is an indication of finish quality because it takes time tonl do it. You might be able to start with a machine but it has to be hand finished.
Bad angle, but the edge of the 3/4 plate has a polished edge. The wider the edge, the "better" it is. Internal, sharp angles are tougher to champfer, so that's an indication of skill and time taken.
Also in the pic is what many in Glaschutte do, which is a hand engraved balance cock instead of a bridge. This takes time and can't machine it.
You can see also the brushed finishing on the 3/4 plate in this pic too. How fine the brushing is is a sign of quality.
Such lovely engraving!
I can't remember if this was for JLC, Glaschutte or Lange, but I was watching a video and I think they interviewed one of the representatives of the brand. She was joking that the artisans can look at the engraving and tell you the exact artisan who did it just based off the peculiarities of their handiwork.
Such lovely engraving!
I can't remember if this was for JLC, Glaschutte or Lange, but I was watching a video and I think they interviewed one of the representatives of the brand. She was joking that the artisans can look at the engraving and tell you the exact artisan who did it just based off the peculiarities of their handiwork.
Yes that's spot on for Lange. There are 5 engravers and they know each other's signature style!
The current watch which I have that I absolutely love the finishing. JLC Reverso Duoface! Beautiful Guilloche on dial with small seconds. Lovely Clous de Paris on the reverse side for travel time & day / night indicator.
The fine gentlemen over at Watchfinder & Co. just released a good video, discussing more affordable watches with good finishing!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EZpd7T-X3I&ab_channel=Watchfinder%26Co.