We all forgot about EBEL
Hi everyone! I’m trying to shed some light on one of my favorite brands that I don’t think gets enough love.
EBEL started off in 1911 by husband and wife Eugene Blum, and Alice (Et) Levy. Taking the first letter of their first and last names to create EBEL. I won’t get into their early years too much, as the later stuff is what most people find more interesting.
EBEL was known for their in house movements, and interesting designs. In the late 1970s, (1977?) they created the Sport Classic, which really put them on the map. They quickly became popular during the time of the stainless steel sports watch in the 1980s, with the classic wave bracelet.
There were perpetual calendars in precious metal, Zenith powered chronographs (I believe EBEL had a part in reviving the El Primero movement), even in house quartz movements. In fact, EBEL made Cartier quartz movements under contract up until Cartier Purchased EBEL and stripped the brand of almost everything but its name, which was purchased by LVMH and then again by Movado Group in 2004.
You can still see that Cartier is using the same quartz movement design, which is now being manufactured in house. I believe the solar beat is a modified EBEL/Cartier 157.
EBEL even made complete watches for Cartier. In the 1980s the quartz Tanks were made under contract by EBEL for Cartier, but my research seems to suggest that EBEL was making watches for Cartier under contract since the 1930s, but I need more info to back that up.
If you ever get a chance to get your hands on an EBEL sport classic, classic wave, 1911, or discovery. Take some time to really get a look at it. You can really get a sense of how it feels in the hand compared to a Santos, and you’d be surprised how similar the construction is.
The finishing… ultra fine brushing, mirror polishing… ultra crisp edges, while still being smooth to the touch like any finely finished luxury watch.
Today things seem pretty sad for EBEL. They seem to be stifled by Movado Group.
Their construction and finishing are still absolutely outstanding, but they seem to be using a lot of Sellita automatic and Ronda quartz movements. That’s fine and all, and I own one of their newer models. I think we miss the days of them using El Primero movements, in house perpetual calendars, even in house high end quartz movements.
I’ve attached some photos for “viewing pleasure” 😉 most of these photos have been taken from EBEL’s stock images, or eBay. I’ve also added a few pics of my Wave Chronograph that I will make a separate post on as well.
If anyone knows more about the brand, and has anything to add or something to correct, please let me know 🙏 I’m trying to learn as much as I can.
Also check out some videos on EBEL if you’re feeling intrigued. For some reason I can’t seem to post multiple links, but this covers most of their 70s, 80, and 90s pieces.
Shane Paradis. I’m a string instrument repair technician, and cat dad 😄 I’m here for the fun and fellowship.
Who forgot???
Wow. Another brand I new nothing about. Very cool.
Who forgot???
Me until last year 😂😭 oh how I love them! Even this basic (but nice) Ronda powered Wave
No Sonny Crockett reference? I'm considering getting a wave link expansion bracelet to emulate the Ebel look.
I just recently became aware of the brand and it's history, and I'm hooked. I really want one of these:
No Sonny Crockett reference? I'm considering getting a wave link expansion bracelet to emulate the Ebel look.
Oh the sopranos too! “I got Ebel watches, earrings, whatever you want!”
I wanna see that! I’ve never seen an expansion style wave bracelet before.
I just recently became aware of the brand and it's history, and I'm hooked. I really want one of these:
They turn up here and there on eBay and C24. The newer ones are easier to get for a steal if you visit a Movado Group outlet. Sometimes it can be worth it. I snagged my wave last year for $575 directly from them. The “suggested” MSRP was $2200, but usually actually sell for closer to $1600.
Oh the sopranos too! “I got Ebel watches, earrings, whatever you want!”
I wanna see that! I’ve never seen an expansion style wave bracelet before.
Oh wow, I didn't even realize it came in two tone. Totally different league, of course.
https://speidel.com/collections/twist-o-flex-bands/products/speidel-twist-o-flex-4
They turn up here and there on eBay and C24. The newer ones are easier to get for a steal if you visit a Movado Group outlet. Sometimes it can be worth it. I snagged my wave last year for $575 directly from them. The “suggested” MSRP was $2200, but usually actually sell for closer to $1600.
Thanks, I'm definitely on the lookout for this particular model, which is a limited edition of 500 pieces in white gold (ref. 3137240). Chrono24 has the gold version, but not the white gold. I'm in no rush 🙂
Oh wow, I didn't even realize it came in two tone. Totally different league, of course.
https://speidel.com/collections/twist-o-flex-bands/products/speidel-twist-o-flex-4
Oh! I have one of these in gold cap from the 1960s. It’s on an old Bulova
Thanks, I'm definitely on the lookout for this particular model, which is a limited edition of 500 pieces in white gold (ref. 3137240). Chrono24 has the gold version, but not the white gold. I'm in no rush 🙂
I’ll remember this, and keep an eye out!
Very nice, thanks for bringing this up👌
Times were a little tough for self employed architects trying to compete for decent sized projects that could support a small but ambitious office of good design guys and gals. My father in law said that he was not a bank so my stash of watches had to go for rock bottom prices. I had bills to pay. I hated selling off my late 80s Ebel watches especially a magnificent gold case Chronograph with an El Primero movement that was a gift from a client who hired me to design a custom house for his mistress, lol. My older brother and I worked together until we couldn’t we both loved the advertising from Ebel: ARCHITECTS OF TIME! Great line.
I didn't forget 😉 but whenever I tell people about them they seem not to care very much. My profile picture is an Ebel.
I didn't forget 😉 but whenever I tell people about them they seem not to care very much. My profile picture is an Ebel.
People only want to talk about hype watches. I’m so freaking bored of hype, lol. I think the look of Ebel’s is somewhat polarizing, and I totally get that though.
People only want to talk about hype watches. I’m so freaking bored of hype, lol. I think the look of Ebel’s is somewhat polarizing, and I totally get that though.
True, but I haven't figured out the mechanics of hype yet. When people were talking about the HM Streamliner they likened the bracelet to armadillos and such. I think it looks suspiciously like an Ebel wave...
I think one of the issues is that a lot of their older stuff is quartz. They did order El Primeros but were "out-ordered" by Rolex so they had to move on I believe. The second generation chronograph uses an excellent base, maybe even better than Zenith's, but that's a harder sell to many people already as it is less well known and quite hard to service I presume. They swap movements I hear, even El Primeros. The fancy 3 hand automatics with GP3300s or Lemania 8810s are not terribly common, unfortunately.
And such poor luck with the timing, Movado made a decent push with the BTR series. Seems to me that they really tried and wanted to establish Ebel up there with the big boys, it failed... financial crisis and all. The build quality of the watches from that era is incredible. My ETA based 1911 from the late 2000s probably feels nicer, more solid, than any Omega I ever held in my hand. I can't fault Movado and I truly don't get why people are not more into these watches.
I haven't handled a latest generation watch, I hope the quality is still there, but I see that they largely went away from the band screws. Shame, I like thay system as it was unique and secure. I wish they made another effort to compete on technology and movements but I think that ship has sailed and is half way across the ocean at this point.
True, but I haven't figured out the mechanics of hype yet. When people were talking about the HM Streamliner they likened the bracelet to armadillos and such. I think it looks suspiciously like an Ebel wave...
I think one of the issues is that a lot of their older stuff is quartz. They did order El Primeros but were "out-ordered" by Rolex so they had to move on I believe. The second generation chronograph uses an excellent base, maybe even better than Zenith's, but that's a harder sell to many people already as it is less well known and quite hard to service I presume. They swap movements I hear, even El Primeros. The fancy 3 hand automatics with GP3300s or Lemania 8810s are not terribly common, unfortunately.
And such poor luck with the timing, Movado made a decent push with the BTR series. Seems to me that they really tried and wanted to establish Ebel up there with the big boys, it failed... financial crisis and all. The build quality of the watches from that era is incredible. My ETA based 1911 from the late 2000s probably feels nicer, more solid, than any Omega I ever held in my hand. I can't fault Movado and I truly don't get why people are not more into these watches.
I haven't handled a latest generation watch, I hope the quality is still there, but I see that they largely went away from the band screws. Shame, I like thay system as it was unique and secure. I wish they made another effort to compete on technology and movements but I think that ship has sailed and is half way across the ocean at this point.
Nailed it! I also was shocked to see a spring bar setup instead of the old band screws. I think they wanted to do something more traditional? But I prefer the older setup.
Luckily, they are still using screw links in all their bracelets. Even though they are EXTREMELY small and thin.
Just chanced upon this brand as I was browsing japanese vintage watch shops online. Saw an intriguing Sportswave model with a multi-color dial going for just under USD 1,000 that I'm likely gonna snap up! Definitely an underrated brand!
Just chanced upon this brand as I was browsing japanese vintage watch shops online. Saw an intriguing Sportswave model with a multi-color dial going for just under USD 1,000 that I'm likely gonna snap up! Definitely an underrated brand!
Oh I wanna see pics! Ebel has made some very interesting watches. And they (usually) use interesting movements.