To Panerai or Not to Panerai?

I found myself strangely attracted to the Panerai Luminor Due 38.  (ok, I have a tiny wrist).  But I need convincing to either pull the trigger or walk away.  I need your wisdom folks!

Pros (at least to me)

  • Nod to Panerai for considering small wrists
  • Cool looking, the crown lock is fun to play with
  • The red stripe

Cons (again, to me)

  • 3 bar water resistance
  • Looks like a sports watch but likely I can't do many sports with it
  • A little on the $$$ side given what it does
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Do it!  It's awesome!  What other watches out there look like Panerai's?  None!  They're sui generis!  They're beautiful!

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I have a Panerai 346.  Really like it; a bit on the thick side but wears well.

I haven't seen a white Panerai dial - looks good.  But I think a nice  leather strap would make it look even better but that's just MHO.

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Thanks Martini!  Yeah I hate it when my brain refuses to give an answer...  BTW, I love that blue second hand on the 40

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Mr.Dee.Bater

Do it!  It's awesome!  What other watches out there look like Panerai's?  None!  They're sui generis!  They're beautiful!

Thanks Omeganut.  Do you have any experience with how it wears or how reliable?

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cj3209

I have a Panerai 346.  Really like it; a bit on the thick side but wears well.

I haven't seen a white Panerai dial - looks good.  But I think a nice  leather strap would make it look even better but that's just MHO.

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Thanks CJ3209!  Yeah I agree - the white on white is a little much.  But I'm a sucker for red so... yeah.

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Do it. That's hot. Do it.

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They wear like a dinner plate with a handy handle on the side. Wear it around the AD for a while. For that price you gotta love it.

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I will be the contrarian here. As Nico Leonard consistently bangs on about how terrible watches made by Hublot are, I would have to say, and I know the Paneristi are going to hate me for this, Panerai are overpriced and inferior value for money. 

Rather than reciting the scandals perpetrated by Panerai, I thought I would just link to some of the articles that explain them (see below).

If you like the watch - it looks awesome - just know you are way overpaying for what you are getting. Panerais do not hold their value in the aftermarket.

https://thetruthaboutwatches.com/2021/08/panerai-in-house-movement-scandal/

https://perezcope.com/2021/08/08/panerai-in-house-movements-a-pam-of-worms/

https://watchesbysjx.com/2011/11/explaining-the-saga-of-the-controversial-panerai-pam318.html

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They make a 38mm watch??!? I had no idea! Now I’m interested and will begin googling.

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First of all, it’s gorgeous. Plus, if you ever got a bit bored, a different strap with the white dial would hugely change the look.  
 

Second, if @ChronoGuy is right, you get to be part of a scandal. And though they might hate to admit it, everyone loves a good scandal!

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I want to like Panerai as an Italian-American. I like Ferrari. I like Gelato. I love pasta. Also pizza. And Vespa, Ducati, and Motto Guzzi. Even a good Campagnolo-equipped Colnago.

I have yet to find an Italian watch or newspaper that I’d care to read regularly. 

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Bobofet

I want to like Panerai as an Italian-American. I like Ferrari. I like Gelato. I love pasta. Also pizza. And Vespa, Ducati, and Motto Guzzi. Even a good Campagnolo-equipped Colnago.

I have yet to find an Italian watch or newspaper that I’d care to read regularly. 

As an Italian-American, my favorite Italian watch company is Anonimo.

Here's a good summary of the brand (from the Which Watch web site: https://whichwatch.org/top-italian-watch-brands-for-men/ )

Anonimo

Italian watch brand Anonimo

When competing watch brand Panerai was sold and moved to Switzerland in 1997, Federico Massacesi seized the opportunity and purchased the manufacturing facilities in Florence Italy. Massacesi was able to maintain the core group of Panerai watchmakers in Florence and Tuscany and together they created Anonimo. Signor Massacesi wanted to focus on quality and not on branding, that’s why Anonimo (anonymous in english) is such a fitting name.

After a buyout and a move to Switzerland in 2013 (technically they are no longer an Italian watch company), Anonimo has reduced its number of models and they are now selling three collections; the Militare, Nautilo, and Epurato. All three collections consist of handcrafted high-quality watches with self-winding mechanical movements. They are designed for military use and deep sea diving.

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I have to admit I'm a bit obsessed with Anonimo - let me demonstrate:

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Personally I'd walk away, owing to my dislike of something looking like it can do an activity, but can't. A 3 bar diver? Nah I'm good thanks mate. But, at the end of the day its your money do what you like 

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Ok, the case is cool. All in, I own a rose gold radiomir I bought almost 20 years ago. I hardly wear it because it's gold. The 3 bar thing is just sad for a diver IMO. If you love the look then buy for that reason.  If you may want resale , or reliability,  then keep looking. 

Here's a white face 300m diver that has a cult following. This is 38mm,  tough as nails,  cool looking & a lot less than a Panerai.  It doesn't have that "jewelry " finish Panerai has but it has a killer white dial and red accent. 

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https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2581/7358/products/WW194026SS-0530-1_4000x@3x.progressive.jpg?v=1641514989

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Mr.Dee.Bater

My friend, I was just having a conversation with a buddy of mine about autism this morning - apparently, his wife has been diagnosed with it, which would help explain a lot of the issues they were having.  Here is what he wrote about diagnosing it:

Being non-autistic literally means, in its most basic form, "advance scanning all ideas for social desirability within your social in-group, and feeling bad about engaging in anything that reduces social cohesion"

With that quote in mind, if someone asks you "Does my bum look big in this?" and you are unable to provide emotional support...  you might want to take an autism screening test!

I asked my wife if maybe I should.  She laughed and said, "I don't think the test is going to tell us anything we don't already know!"  😂

Oh, I have taken an autism screening test. Out of 50. An average woman scores 16, an average man 18, an average computer scientist scores 21 (I am one), autism scale begins at 31. I scored 40. Still, these cultural differences between US and Germany apply widely.

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i’d never say NO to a Panerai

but, if its your first one, i suggest getting the truest of them all

base luminor or base radiomir 👍 timeless and they are true strap monsters 

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I don't think genuine Panerai's are worth the money at all. It's the only brand for which I'd advocate buying a replica, at least for the models with minimal complications. 

Case in point: Panerai's official instagram has posted images of replica Panerai's... you can look it up. 

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Thank you everyone for sharing your thoughts.  I'll start by saying when it comes to watches, I'm an eager fish who's always ready to bite whether there's a painful barb below or not.  And oh yes, I've been burnt before.  This time I decided to crowd source opinions, and your awesome input show me great insights.  So if I still bite, I do it with my eyes open.

I learned that Panerai has a low performance-per-price ratio (basic complications @ luxury prices, low resale value), scandalous with their movement claim (ETA-P9000 :p), lots of counterfeits, low water resistance which puts doubt on their watch making prowess, and yeah wearing like a frying pan on wrists.

It comes down to whether I still love it despite of its faults.  After days of agonizing right-brain left-brain debates, I'm happy to report the answer is yes.  I do love my newly minted over-priced frying pan.  

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Thanks all! I look forward to our next convo!

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Porthole

Other than the fact they adorn the wrists of many icons of fragile masculinity, this is the other thing that comes to mind when I see a Panerai. 
I like a controversial watch at the best of times, but not too controversial.

So, the innovative brave as F*** pioneers of combat diving that caused mayhem for the allied fleet, are icons of fragile masculinity?  

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MarkCO

So, the innovative brave as F*** pioneers of combat diving that caused mayhem for the allied fleet, are icons of fragile masculinity?  

Nope. Try again.

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I know what you are referring to. Dwayne Johnson, Stallone etc. I Just find Panerai ‘haters’ animus towards a ‘watch’ strangely fascinating, and rather bizarre. @Porthole I could write a  dissertation on Rolex and its use as a look at me I have made it badge, now that’s fragile masculinity. 
Wear the watch that clicks, @DittoDot enjoy it and don’t put it down just because others feel the need to. And people need to give the water resistance a rest, Christ most have never snorkelled let alone dived. The white dial is stunning by the way @DittoDot 👍

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MarkCO

I know what you are referring to. Dwayne Johnson, Stallone etc. I Just find Panerai ‘haters’ animus towards a ‘watch’ strangely fascinating, and rather bizarre. @Porthole I could write a  dissertation on Rolex and its use as a look at me I have made it badge, now that’s fragile masculinity. 
Wear the watch that clicks, @DittoDot enjoy it and don’t put it down just because others feel the need to. And people need to give the water resistance a rest, Christ most have never snorkelled let alone dived. The white dial is stunning by the way @DittoDot 👍

I’m not a Panerai hater, I am the Devil’s Advocate on this platform when it comes to controversial watches and brands. My handle is Porthole ffs - “Hublot”. I just find the brand are in a very odd position from multiple perspectives, and it’s difficult to trust them regarding movement and manufacture. It’s a shame, as the history of the brand is fascinating, but then again so was the aquatic battle beneath the waves of the Mediterranean during WWII. It‘s not the only brand we can call into disrepute, I too could write pages upon pages about toxic watch tropes - I’ve been in trouble on here before when arguing for smaller watch sizes, especially since vintage watches can dip below 28mm for men. Cyma ATPs were 28mm, we fought wars with sub 34mm strapped to our wrists, yet people lose their minds when they see a 36mm watch and wonder if it means they’re wearing a women’s watch. 

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🤜🏼🤛🏻 

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Mr.Dee.Bater

Unfortunately, I don't have any experience with Panerai directly.  I always say this whenever there's a thread soliciting opinions:  There's that famous saying, "Opinions are like a$$holes...  everybody's got one," and this is just one a$$hole's opinion:

  • That is the most awesome looking Panerai I've ever seen.  It's gorgeous
  • From a pure autist's perspective, I totally don't  understand all this talk about "scandal."  So, Panerai used an ETA movement and claimed that it was an in-house movement.  Okay.  To me, that's like Nissan saying, "We built this in-house CVT transmission!" and then people discover that's it's not an in-house Nissan transmission, but instead is the workhorse ZF8.  That would be the best discovery in the world!  The in-house CVT is a piece of utter $H1T!  The workhorse ZF8 is reliable, high-quality, easy and cheap to maintain and service, and has a history of decades of reliability.  If you offered me 2 versions of the exact same watch - one with in-house movement, and one with workhorse ETA, I would take the one with ETA 8 days a week!  The whole "in-house" movement craze is pure marketing BS, and was kicked off due to Swatch Group trying to put competitors out of business by no longer shipping them ETA movements - but Swiss government intervened
  • Again, from a pure autist's perspective, I totally don't understand all this talk about "you're not getting value for your money."  WTF???  Ladies and gentlemen, we are talking about spending thousands upon thousands of dollars on luxury goods.  I hate to break the news thusly, but there is very little "objective" value in any of our purchases.  We can justify our purchases with talk of heritage and engineering and the fact that Oompa Loompas carved the meteorite dials themselves using chocolate tools in Willy Wonka's factory...  but, in the end, that's all just "rationalization"

I would say the following:

  • There have been a number of suggestions to try the watch on for a while at an AD to really decide if fit is right for you - that's a great idea
  • There's a lot of talk about how Panerai "don't hold their value."  Well, that's good news.  That simply means that you can buy one for a significant discount if you buy the watch off Chrono24.  If you buy it from a professional dealer on Chrono24, you can get a brand new one still wrapped in plastic, with significant discount off MSRP, along with full box, papers, and manufacturer's warranty.  At that point, "don't hold their value" goes out the window
  • From what I can gather, the warranty is 2 years, and then you can extend it to 8 by registering the watch online.  8 years warranty is pretty darn good

It looks the business.  Panerai are unique.  99.9% of people will look at your wrist, have no idea what the watch is, but at least will think to themselves, "Wow, that looks cool."  The other 0.1% of people, who know watches, will see it and think, "Wow!  That's a real enthusiast!"  And you will look down at your own wrist, and you will love what you have on, and that's all that really matters.

Could not have said that better. I refrained myself from buying a Panerai because of all those negative comments you see around. After a while, I was still in love with it and pulled the trigger. I can’t be happier and it is the watch I wear the most now (well, I just bought it recently 🤪). Go for it if you can. Nice to wear, very pretty design and goes with every style.

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Davemcc

30m.  $8,000.  The math doesn’t add up. 

Unless you plan to rescue the Titanic, it adds up 🙂. Just kidding, I agreee, but having said that, they are tested and proved to sustain up to at least 100m (I was trying to find the source, I think is one of the watchadvisor videos on Youtube, where they explore the Panerai facility). I don’t understand why Panerai goes that conservative with the water resistance for this particular model.

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DittoDot

Thank you everyone for sharing your thoughts.  I'll start by saying when it comes to watches, I'm an eager fish who's always ready to bite whether there's a painful barb below or not.  And oh yes, I've been burnt before.  This time I decided to crowd source opinions, and your awesome input show me great insights.  So if I still bite, I do it with my eyes open.

I learned that Panerai has a low performance-per-price ratio (basic complications @ luxury prices, low resale value), scandalous with their movement claim (ETA-P9000 :p), lots of counterfeits, low water resistance which puts doubt on their watch making prowess, and yeah wearing like a frying pan on wrists.

It comes down to whether I still love it despite of its faults.  After days of agonizing right-brain left-brain debates, I'm happy to report the answer is yes.  I do love my newly minted over-priced frying pan.  

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Thanks all! I look forward to our next convo!

Looks stunning! I bet you love it every minute.

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Yopo66

Unless you plan to rescue the Titanic, it adds up 🙂. Just kidding, I agreee, but having said that, they are tested and proved to sustain up to at least 100m (I was trying to find the source, I think is one of the watchadvisor videos on Youtube, where they explore the Panerai facility). I don’t understand why Panerai goes that conservative with the water resistance for this particular model.

I find the move to a snap on case back with a huge price increase a complete mismatch. They have removed the durability and build quality from the existing lineup and still raised the price. I don’t get it but people will still buy it. More power to them.

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Perfect Panarai and strap combo! I’m also interested in the smaller dial Panerai and was wondering if you actually bought; if so, how are you liking it?🤙