A Tale of Two Fears
I am not going to actively seek more watches. I am done buying for a while. I really do not need another white dial watch. The things we tell ourselves, and then if you are like me, you jump on opportunities when presented, which is exactly what happened.
Many of us keep active watch lists in all the regular places. My usual go-to is eBay. I forgot that I still had an active search for Fears watches, which I set up a couple of years ago attempting to get my hands on a second-hand Brunswick Salmon. Well, earlier this year, I was able to get my hands on one thanks to the amazing people at Topper Jewelers. They had a pre-owned one pop up during one of their Friday drops and the price was too good to resist. PS, Topper is also an AD for Fears if you are in the US looking to support Fears. I have no affiliation with them other than I buy a lot of watches from them.
I enjoy the 38 Brunswick; Manual wind, gorgeous dial, reliable movement, and very easy to wear. However, when I first tried it on, I did so at the very same time they were previewing the new Brunswick 40 with their new bracelet. I liked the Silver 40 so much, that I decided not to buy the 38 at the time because I was blown away by the looks, feel, and style of the 40. I know many do not care for them, but the butterfly clasp and overall quality of the bracelet had me questioning why brands that cost a whole lot more cannot get bracelets right.
A few weeks ago I got a notification that a Brunswick 40 Silver, the watch I thought about since originally trying it on, was for sale, the first one I ever recall seeing on eBay. The seller had a fair price, and after a day on my watchlist, sent me an even better offer. I was traveling and was not able to reply at the time, but a week after that, they dropped the price by $500. This put the watch over $1k below retail.
I feel the Brunswick 40 lineup is very much slept on, largely for a reason I will get into momentarily. These are well-made watches with excellent attention to detail, reliable automatic movement, and a look not many are making. On top of that, they are designed by a British brand that, while technically a start-up from 2016, the name has a legacy dating back to 1846. Unlike many other zombie brands, this one was re-animated by a descendant.
Well, the 40 recently arrived. At first glance, I recalled it looking way more white than silver when I originally played with one back in NYC. I know the numerals are silver, but in a dim office light, they are almost black. I had to break out a lamp. What a difference...
Under brighter lights, the dial turns white, the numerals silver, and the red second-hand against the white backdrop, really jumps out.
How does it compare against the 38 and which should you consider? As cliche as it is, they are different watches. Besides the size, the 38 feels more dress watch. The dial has more vintage inspiration and with the manual wound movement, it feels like one could get in a DeLorean, go to 1955, and be right at home with it, albeit 38mm would have been a big watch in 1955.
Whereas the 40 feels sportier and more modern. Yes, the bracelet helps, but it is a nice compliment to the lineup depending on what one is looking for. Personally, I tend to live in the 37mm-40mm space and have no issue recommending both, but given each of these were opportunity purchases and not in order of preference, my initial gut feeling seems right, I believe I prefer the 40.
I did my best to get comparable wrist shots on my 6.5" wrist. Again, do not mind the poor lighting in my office.
Now, the elephant in the room. "CB, I would never pay $3000 to $3500 for an ETA 2824 watch." Therein lies the rub with the brand for many and totally I get it. I usually have a $2500-ish ceiling for the best ETA-based watches, but sometimes I have to put my normal spec requirements aside. Yes, Nicholas and the team get the higher-end version of the movement and make modifications, but I am not going to lie and say that did not put me off. Even after meeting Nicholas and some of the folks at Fears, I just could not pull the trigger when presented with other alternatives. I really wanted to support them directly and hope to in the future, but like many, I do consider value and aftermarket performance when buying, despite the fact I have never sold a watch. I simply do not want to be the person who spends X amount on a watch worth Y to the downside.
After owning one for almost six months I am not going to say it is not worth retail, it is a lovely watch, but I completely understand someone opting for an alternative or waiting for a bargain secondhand.
As it relates to the 40? Honestly, I would have eventually bought this from Topper's at full price, likely this fall. It feels and looks every bit of $3500, largely because of the excellent bracelet complimenting and that stunning dial. While subjective, it feels more substantial in hand and really does feel like a premium product.
Hopefully, this highlighted an awesome independent/microbrand and my perspective on owning each of the two models. I believe this is the first 40 posted on WC too, so happy to answer any questions.
Now, I have to go back to not looking at my saved searches.
Watch enthusiast who insists on the next watch being the last.
The Sum of All Fears
Phenomenal write up! Honestly, the ETA movement feels like a feature, NOT a bug to me!!!
Phenomenal write up! Honestly, the ETA movement feels like a feature, NOT a bug to me!!!
Thank you. Tried to highlight the opportunity shopper’s buying journey.
I am with you on ETA. The 2824 is one of my favorite movements at any price point. Not only for reliability, but as you know serviceability. Can it be had much less? Absolutely, but again, not everything is what it appears on paper sometimes.
Yay for Fears! Two great watches there!
I lucked into getting my hands on one of the incredibly limited Brunswick Jubilee editions released in 2022...
It's 38mm and seems a bit small on my 7.5 inch wrist with the purple strap...
However, I picked up the bracelet and it wears so much better on the bracelet...looks amazing!
Have to get a wrist shot soon to demonstrate
Great write-up on Fears. I actually purchased the Salmon Brunswick at this past Windup NYC. I had been considering one for a while and while I'm usually pretty confident buying a watch without having handled it based on my general experience, some of the things you mentioned here made me think harder about this one, but once I handled it at Windup, I knew I would have to buy one.
Unfortunately, I lost that one while traveling just a few weeks later, a rookie mistake from a seasoned traveler. It took a while to get over it, but always assumed I would buy another one. I did however decide having already paid full price for one, that I'd wait until one popped up preowned at the right price. Similarly, that happened at Topper's a couple weeks ago and so far, I'm really enjoying having it back on my wrist.
I know $3k from a small brand with an ETA movement can be a tall ask for people and I won't necessarily claim that this represents a great value, but it is quite a lovely watch, and owning several watches both quite a bit less and and quite a bit more expensive, I don't feel the price is too out of line. Of course as with most watches, buying preowned isn't a bad deal to push the perceived value more in one's favor.
A couple recent pic for reference.
Great write-up on Fears. I actually purchased the Salmon Brunswick at this past Windup NYC. I had been considering one for a while and while I'm usually pretty confident buying a watch without having handled it based on my general experience, some of the things you mentioned here made me think harder about this one, but once I handled it at Windup, I knew I would have to buy one.
Unfortunately, I lost that one while traveling just a few weeks later, a rookie mistake from a seasoned traveler. It took a while to get over it, but always assumed I would buy another one. I did however decide having already paid full price for one, that I'd wait until one popped up preowned at the right price. Similarly, that happened at Topper's a couple weeks ago and so far, I'm really enjoying having it back on my wrist.
I know $3k from a small brand with an ETA movement can be a tall ask for people and I won't necessarily claim that this represents a great value, but it is quite a lovely watch, and owning several watches both quite a bit less and and quite a bit more expensive, I don't feel the price is too out of line. Of course as with most watches, buying preowned isn't a bad deal to push the perceived value more in one's favor.
Sorry to hear that you lost the original one Paul. I was so close to buying the Salmon at Windup, but instead, I ordered the new Farer Chrono. It was a tough call, because ultimately I knew I still wanted it, for all the reasons we discussed, the price simply kept me at bay for a while. For me, if I am consistently deciding between a couple of watches, the price could keep pushing it to the back of the queue, but ultimately glad I grabbed both of these.
Like you, after owning them, I do not necessarily feel the price is out of line, but I do get it, especially for those where this is a major purchase.
Yay for Fears! Two great watches there!
I lucked into getting my hands on one of the incredibly limited Brunswick Jubilee editions released in 2022...
It's 38mm and seems a bit small on my 7.5 inch wrist with the purple strap...
However, I picked up the bracelet and it wears so much better on the bracelet...looks amazing!
Have to get a wrist shot soon to demonstrate
I know we chatted early on about that one. Absolutely love that dial. I am hoping by year-end I add a purple dial to the rotation.
I have an extra Fears bracelet lying around if anyone wants it. Make a fair offer and it’s yours as I just want it to have a good home.
Thanks for this. Very helpful. I too had the chance to try on the Fears line at Topper. I'd gone in liking them, came out fully in love. Had a chance to speak with Russ at Topper about Fears (they've done collaborations past/future). I asked him about the value proposition, this movement at that price, etc. He handed me a loupe and had me look in detail at the dial, the finish, the numerals, the case, etc. This was the flamingo pink 40. It's just fantastic up close, every bit of the luxury watch it's priced to be.
If that's not your bag, look elsewhere. But for me, that's the next watch in line.
I know we chatted early on about that one. Absolutely love that dial. I am hoping by year-end I add a purple dial to the rotation.
Have you considered the pink dial? That's the one that won me over. And I had a similar experience with the dial/numbers in the light. See pics. Just a tiny twist in the light turns the numbers silver. Maybe because they're made from brass then coated in gold? Who knows. But it looks cool, especially on that pink/gray dial.
Thanks for this. Very helpful. I too had the chance to try on the Fears line at Topper. I'd gone in liking them, came out fully in love. Had a chance to speak with Russ at Topper about Fears (they've done collaborations past/future). I asked him about the value proposition, this movement at that price, etc. He handed me a loupe and had me look in detail at the dial, the finish, the numerals, the case, etc. This was the flamingo pink 40. It's just fantastic up close, every bit of the luxury watch it's priced to be.
If that's not your bag, look elsewhere. But for me, that's the next watch in line.
Rob, you hit the nail on the head. There is a level of finishing that allows Fears to separate itself from other micros, though many wont get past the movement, which I get, but even the movement has some work done to it.
As far as the Pink one, that is a special watch. I’ve handled the Candy Pink OP 36 and while it is definitely nice, if I removed the aftermarket aspect, the Fears simply looks better to me, especially on that bracelet.
For both of the Fears I have, the numerals quickly flip from silver to black. It is an interesting touch, but given the height of the numerals, I can see why they do that with their indices. If you like pink, have you looked at the Noble? It is more OP than Brunswick, but a very cool watch in its own right.
Rob, you hit the nail on the head. There is a level of finishing that allows Fears to separate itself from other micros, though many wont get past the movement, which I get, but even the movement has some work done to it.
As far as the Pink one, that is a special watch. I’ve handled the Candy Pink OP 36 and while it is definitely nice, if I removed the aftermarket aspect, the Fears simply looks better to me, especially on that bracelet.
For both of the Fears I have, the numerals quickly flip from silver to black. It is an interesting touch, but given the height of the numerals, I can see why they do that with their indices. If you like pink, have you looked at the Noble? It is more OP than Brunswick, but a very cool watch in its own right.
That's nice, but I'm a sucker for Arabic numerals. Can't do indices, though I do like the date window.
Wonderful write up and beautiful photos! Thanks! I need to check out Fears in person.
Yay for Fears! Two great watches there!
I lucked into getting my hands on one of the incredibly limited Brunswick Jubilee editions released in 2022...
It's 38mm and seems a bit small on my 7.5 inch wrist with the purple strap...
However, I picked up the bracelet and it wears so much better on the bracelet...looks amazing!
Have to get a wrist shot soon to demonstrate
Gorgeous my friend!!! I don't think it looks small. It's a very classy but striking watch!
Wonderful summary and I agree the retail price was a bit of a stretch for me too. I've keep a search open just like you and picked up my Brunswick Salmon. I am so happy I found a great deal on one but agree with you that in reality it is worth the price!!! The look of the dial and the case shape and the size just all work for me. I love what Nicholas has done with the brand and think it IS an underrated brand!
Gorgeous my friend!!! I don't think it looks small. It's a very classy but striking watch!
Thanks! Appreciate the kind words.
Here's the shot on the bracelet...
Looking forward to receiving this one sometime before Christmas...an 18k gold version...
Thanks! Appreciate the kind words.
Here's the shot on the bracelet...
Looking forward to receiving this one sometime before Christmas...an 18k gold version...
Ahhh. This one is exceptional as well!! Can’t wait to see some of your shots of it. The Gold and Burgundy are so beautiful together!!