Building My Own Watch

[Note: This is not a sponsored post. I personally purchased all items mentioned below at full price, and none of the links are affiliate links.]

After tinkering around doing modest restorations of no-name vintage watches for a while, I thought it might be fun to assemble a watch myself from scratch. I'm aware of D.I.Y. Watch Club, but their prices are pretty steep for what you get. And, more relevantly, I don't really like any of the watches they offer. If you can forgo the handholding, there are alternatives with far more options.

I think one good place to start is the Miuksi Official Store on AliExpress. They organize and package the parts and options in a way that is especially convenient and helps to ensure that you don't forget anything essential. Generally you only need to order four items: a case, a dial, a movement, and hands. That will usually get you everything you need save a strap or bracelet as it will include all the associated minor parts such as a crystal, bezel insert, winding stem, etc.

Their parts are sort of organized by movement, so that's the starting point. By far the best variety can be found in parts for the NH35/NH36, so that's what I'd recommend.

I decided I'd build a vintage-ish dive watch, even though my scrawny 15cm wrists demand a pretty small watch. Fortunately, that's not impossible with their parts selection.

1. Case: I picked a 36mm stainless steel case with a black bezel insert. This comes with the crystal and bezel (but not the insert) pre-installed, and includes a sapphire crystal and ceramic bezel insert. In making your own selection, be sure to note the dial size supported, in this case 28mm - 28.7mm. Cost: $37.70.

2. Dial: Sticking with my plan for a vintage style, I picked a 28.5mm Rolex/Tudor style black dial with faux patina. I specifically did not want a date complication. There's nothing fancy about this dial (it has no lume whatsoever), but it was perfect for my needs. Cost: $13.00.

3. Handset: There was really only one choice for a handset that matched the faux patina of the dial and fit within the case. It's a Mercedes style handset that does, at least, complement the dial perfectly. Make sure to select the appropriate movement (NH35 NH36) and verify that the hands will fit within the case. These hands are 8mm, 12mm, and 12.5mm from center pinion to tip, so they'll all fit on the 28.5mm (14.25mm radius) dial. Cost: $9.25.

4. Movement: Obviously I'm going for the NH35/NH36 family, but since I don't have a date complication, the cheaper NH38 works fine. The movement includes the necessary winding stem. Cost: $37.95.

Technically, that's it. You've got all the parts you need for under $100. If you're anxious or superstitious, you could order a second handset and some extra crown stems ($8.70) since those are really the only two parts you might mess up during the assembly.

You could also order a bracelet. I picked up an oyster style that features a pretty decent GlideLock style micro adjust. I don't often wear bracelets, but at $27.62 the price is right.

The next step after ordering is waiting. This is definitely not Amazon Prime next day delivery, but everything arrived in my mailbox in less than 3 weeks.

There are plenty of resources that walk through the assembly process. (The YouTube videos from the D.I.Y. Watch club look pretty helpful, though I haven't really watched any of them in full.) At a high level, the steps are

1. Install the dial onto the movement. In my case, the dial can be configured for cases with the crown at 3:00 or at 4:00. For the installation, you'll need to snip off the dial feet (on the underside) that don't match your configuration. Then simply press the dial into the movement holder that's pre-installed on the movement. Total time: 1 minute (or less).

2. Install the handset: hour hand, minute hand, then second hand, being sure to align the first two at 12:00. This is really the only tricky step, especially if you've never done it before. Take your time; even take a break if needed. Use tweezers for the hour and minute hands, but Rodico for the second hand. Total time: 2 minutes with experience, but up to 30 minutes for first-timers.

3. Remove the dummy winding crown and insert the movement in the case. For the NH35/NH36/NH38 series, the stem release is a small lever next to the stem, not a screw or button like I'm used to in Swiss movements. Check YouTube videos and you'll find several that show it in detail. Total time: 1 minute (or less).

4. Trim the actual stem to fit. This step definitely calls for measure twice and cut once. Again, check YouTube videos for guidance. Total time: 5 minutes.

5. Attach the crown to the stem. I like to use a bit of Loctite 222 and let it sit overnight. Total time: 1 minute plus curing.

6. Case the movement and install the crown and stem. Use Rodico to dab off any debris from the dial and an air blower to puff out dust. Total time: 2 minutes.

7. Install the bezel insert. For my case that meant removing the paper backing from the bezel to expose the adhesive and dropping the insert into position. Total time: 1 minute (or less).

8. Add your favorite strap or bracelet.

Enjoy your new watch!

Here's mine on a Crown and Buckle single pass adjustable NATO.

I didn't set out to build something that close to a Submariner, but my preferences (small size, vintage aesthetics) and parts availability kind of forced my hand. At least the reference 5513 that this closely resembles was introduced in my birth year (1962).

Tools:

I don't like cheap tools, and since I work with vintage watches a fair bit, I feel like I can justify the investment. There are cheaper Amazon knock-offs for many of these, though I can't recommend them.

• Work pad

• Finger cots (to protect watch from oils and sweat)

• End cutter pliers (for trimming dial feet and winding stem)

• Jewelry files (for smoothing dial feet and winding stem cuts)

• Movement holder

• Carbon fiber tipped tweezers (for installing hour and minute hands)

• Rodico (for installing second hand and cleaning debris from dial)

• Watch hand tool press (for installing hands)

• Case opening ball (for opening and closing the case)

• Probe stick (for releasing winding stem and generally manipulating the movement)

• Dust blower (for cleaning case before final assembly)

I'll be happy to try and answer any questions.