Watchmaker’s Workbench DIY

Let’s build a watchmaker’s workbench!

I built mine to be 60’’ wide, 25’’ deep, and 38.5’’ high. Any of these measurements can easily be customized during the build to fit your space requirements, ergonomics, and preferences.

Disclaimer: I built this purely as a hobby project, and I am sharing this process in case others here may find this information helpful in their own hobby pursuits. I in no way claim any ownership of designs, techniques, procedures, etc. There may be much better/cheaper/faster/more professional etc. ways of doing this, so please use any and all of this at your own risk.

With that out of the way, here are the materials I used:

Butcher block top 60’’ x 25’’

https://a.co/d/9vMaGye

3060 Aluminum Extrusion, 40’’

https://a.co/d/3LDlfd9

3030 Aluminum Extrusion, 60’’

https://a.co/d/hUsK2vN

3030 Aluminum Extrusion, 24’’

https://a.co/d/a5HFCBT

Feet

https://a.co/d/46EK473

Internal corner brackets

https://a.co/d/6IkS5PI

External corner brackets

https://a.co/d/9uFXCXq

End caps

https://a.co/d/4dMx3cz

Nut inserts

https://a.co/d/bfECVIq

Drawer cabinets

https://bisley-store.com/bisley-6-drawer-under-desk-multidrawer-steel-cabinet/

https://bisley-store.com/bisley-8-drawer-under-desk-multidrawer-steel-cabinet/

Armrests

https://a.co/d/fBrJPPw

Support bracket for armrests

https://a.co/d/7HpJ9cs

Here’s an overview of the key hardware I used to assemble the frame:

Of course, you will need a lot more of this:

Building the frame:

Shorten the 4 pieces of 3060 extrusion by 5 inches. This will give a finished height of 38.5’’, so if you prefer a different height, adjust this measurement accordingly. You can make the cuts with a miter saw and an appropriate, fine toothed blade that is rated for metal.

Next, use internal corner brackets, but inserts, feet, and end caps with the 3030 x 24’’ extrusion to prepare the two bottoms of the end pieces of the frame. They should look like this:

Using the 2 remaining 3030 x 24’’ extrusions, attach external corner brackets, internal corner brackets, and end caps to create the top rails of the side of the frame:

Lastly, shorten the 3030 x 60’’ extrusions by 5’’ to accommodate a 60’’ bench top (or such other amount as required to fit your bench top). Now you can assemble the frame. I recommend squaring it up using a framing square and leaving the bolts finger tight for now:

I modified some of the external corner brackets by grinding off the keying tabs. This way I can turn them 90 degrees and use them hem to attach the bench top:

After you insert some nuts into the side supports as shown here (to attach the cabinets in the next step), the frame is done!

Attaching the drawer cabinets:

I attached the cabinets by drilling through their back and side walls and bolting them to the frame rails. I spaced them such that about 8’’ of space remain above them so you can use their tops as shelves.

Workbench top:

I determined the desired size of the main work area and used a trim router to cut a groove that will catch any small parts that roll away. You may want to fit an existing bench top mat (in my case a Bergeon 6808-V), but I recommend testing out a comfortable position for the arm rests before you commit and cut the openings with a jigsaw or similar. It should look something like this:

I finished the workbench top with 3 layers of polyurethane, using 220 grit sandpaper between coats.

Here’s a detail picture of how I attached the armrests. I used M6 screws and tried different lengths of spacers to find the most comfortable position and angle:

The top then simply attaches with four 1’’ wood screws through the brackets on the top rails of the frame end pieces. After you check for squareness and tighten all the bolts, you are done!

Bonus points for adding the following awesome drawer organizers and felt lining to the drawers:

Felt liner:

https://a.co/d/j5Xga43

Drawer organizers:

https://a.co/d/99CNyS8

Finished product:

Ready for use!!

Post some pictures of your workbench, DIY or otherwise!