Seiko SBDL095 Speedtimer Review: 7 months of ownership

Overview & History

It is undeniable amongst the watch faithful that Seiko has one of the most storied horological histories when it comes to chronographs. Beginning with the Calibre 5719 from 1964, all the way to the 70XX series until they stopped mechanical chronographs of their “golden age of chronographs” in 1977. This includes the fan-favourite 6138 and 6139-equipped watches that reached a nadir with the “Pogue” model and its ilk.

Casting our eye at Seiko’s current chronograph offerings, we see a wide field of variety - the incredibly affordable quartz range as exemplified by the SBTR “Seitona” range, the SSB Quartz models with their 6-9-12 sundial arrangement, the prospex line with multiple offerings; likewise for the automatic mechanical models with the 8R46 movements, as well as the high-end NE88-equipped models - the latter being rather chunky in this writer’s opinion.

The watch in question today is the SBDL095 Speedtimer, which exists within the Prospex line and readily identified by the polarising “X” logo on its dial. This JDM model emerged following the release of the 39mm “older sibling” SSC813P1, with its (also Daytona-esque) 3-6-9 sundial layout and panda colour scheme. The SBDL095 likewise, has its non-Japan Domestic Market (JDM) equivalent, the SSC911P1, but the variant here that we are looking at is 100% made in Japan.

So without further do, let us shake our collective wrists, take a moment to marvel at the general lack of bracelet jangle, and see what this modern solar chronograph has to offer.

Hey Good-looking

Let us get the elephant in the room out of the way - yes, this has the undeniable Daytona-esque aesthetic which drew this writer to the design as a foremost consideration. Now, I am also the owner of a number of mechanical and quartz chronographs, with a variety of subdial layouts shared amongst the pieces in my collection. I would imagine many of us are drawn to that classic subdial layout, and the SBDL095 certainly brings that to the fore with its high-contrast mix of silver sunburst dial, black chapter ring, and darker black/blue subdial colour scheme. You would really have to have a bone to pick with this model to declare it a Daytona homage.

The rest of the dial detailings are genuinely enrapturing when you study them up close: applied rectangular hour indices with chiclet-type lume applied on top; glossy, faceted dauphine hands with a generous amount of lume along their respective lengths. Curiously, we observe white hands for the 3 and 9 o’clock sundials, and red hands for the chronograph seconds hand and the 6 o’clock subdial hand which captures the minutes elapsed when the chronograph is in action. The subdials also happen to be the solar elements for directing power to the rechargeable battery, thus when shifting the watch around, you will observe how the subdials reflect a glossy dark grey-ish navy at times.

Looking even closer, we notice that the 3 o’clock subdial captures the time elapsed over 24 hours, while the 9 o’clock subdial is the only giveaway that this is a quartz movement timepiece as the 60-seconds hand moves around in a ticking motion. It is worth mentioning that the 6 o’clock sundial also doubles up as a battery life indicator, something which is very handy given the solar-powered nature of this movement. We also observe an applied Seiko logo at 12 o’clock, above the aforementioned “X” logo, which is printed; and a rather small date window somewhat randomly located between the 4 and 5 o’clock indices.

The dial is encompassed within a thin black chapter ring that comes with simple minute and second markers in matte white, with the overall presentation being one of precision and excellent execution; thankfully, there is no misaligned chapter ring that typically plagues Seiko pieces although your mileage might vary. That said, to my eye the chronograph seconds hand could have been better aligned - it is a fraction of a hair’s width off, but it was enough for my industrial designer’s eye to detect.

Case Study

Covering the dial is a domed sapphire crystal, with some AR coating, but clearly not exactly the most effective due to internal reflections that occur between the shiny dial and the internal crystal surface. Next to my Breitling Chronomat B01 42 (also a silver dial model), the SBDL095 is still largely legible in the sunlight, but the Chronomat’s external coating is where it takes the lead over the Seiko. Given the price differential, it is clear that Seiko has reviewed where it will save on cost, and the overall legibility is one aspect in which this is apparent. That said, the crystal affords some nice distortions when viewing the dial at an angle, and underwater (yes, I took it swimming) the watch presents itself in a wholly different - and very eye-catching - manner.

As mentioned, this watch has a rating of 10ATM, and the overall build is solid and uncomplicated - we observe circular brushing on the top of the case, with mirrored sides and the tips of the lugs, which are not drilled. The chronograph pushes are plain barrel-types that protrude from equally plain cylindrical collars; while the push-in crown is unsigned, but has a very grippy feel due to the large triangular teeth milled out from the sides. Once again, the lack of an “S” sign on the crown shows where expense in manufacturing has been saved.

Encasing the crystal is another of the SBDL095’s defining aesthetic signatures - the plain steel bezel with an aluminium insert. This aluminium insert gives us a tachymeter scale with the 0-14.5min portion having a black background, while the rest is approximately 40% grey. While the numerals in the grey portions are reasonably legible, one wonders what might have been, had the designers chosen a darker, perhaps 60-70% grey instead. This writer would imagine a more punchy aesthetic, compared to the somewhat washed-out affair we observe.

For the case base, we see an equally minimal affair - etched “Seiko” and “X” logos in the middle with basic information along the case back perimeter. Everything seems to be “party at the front, and business in the rear (and sides)”, which of course is ultimately understandable given this watch’s sub-USD600 pricing - as of November 2023 with Black Friday sales abound. This writer also observes the generally simplistic case design - no edge beveling whatsoever - that ties in with how so much detailing has gone into the dial, and pretty much forsaken elsewhere.

Let’s Brace Ourselves

As we move onto the bracelet, it is once again necessary to dial back our expectations; when observing how the end links meet the case, there is an utter mismatch of the respective design for each element: sharp and angular lugs meeting rounded end links that look like they belong more on the rounded turtle models. The milled clasp offers only two positions of micro-adjustment, and it is released by two side buttons on either side. Thankfully, some meaningful details here can be observed - the inner edges of the clasp which touch the wrist are bevelled to prevent discomfort.

However the rest of the bracelet, while reasonably well built, is a relatively simplistic affair: bushed outer sufaces, polished sides and unfortunately, a pin-and-collar method for securing the bracelet links. This is not the  most consequential deal-breaker, but given the lack of more micro-djustment holes, clearly an oversight that should have been better thought out or baked into the design given that some users might have the need to add or remove links.

Despite my final misgiving - 21mm lug width (oh Lord, WHY?!) - the bracelet is genuinely comfortable, and has held up well over the last 7 months of ownership. In my mind, no watch is perfect, and in taking the rough with the smooth, and Seiko’s bracelet game has certainly elevated over the past few years - commensurate with price hikes perhaps? With all said and done, this is a very functional bracelet that wears well, balances out the watch head and does not make me want to deviate towards strap options - believe me I have tried.

Moment in the Sun

The SBDL095, while clearly harkening to Seiko’s history of producing incredibly good-looking chronographs, has taken a very different direction in terms of how it works and functions. Powering the watch is Seiko’s V192-0AH0 solar quartz movement that promises +/- 15 seconds each month, and can run for 6 months without a power source. Are our Scandivanian readers taking note? Jokes aside, this watch has evolved from being just a good-looking piece on-wrist, and into a serious go-anywhere-do-anything (GADA) option for the person on the street. 

Quartz snobs: allow me to highlight that if a ticking seconds offends your sensibilities, the smaller hand at the 9 o’clock sundial is sufficiently out of the way to help you feel a little less self-conscious that you are apparently wearing a watch without a soul. At the same time, as a predominantly mechanical watch owner, I truly appreciate how this watch is all grab-and-go, with minimal fuss. I can’t count the number of times that I’ve pondered over which watch to pick out of the watch box, and defaulted to the SBDL095 simply because it just looks so damn good, and it is all ready to go.

As of writing, it is worth mentioning that the movement itself has generally fallen within the +/- 15 seconds per month range, and in fact with the watch in rotation and generally spending time on wrist every 2 weeks or so, the “power reserve” indicator has never deviated below the “F” mark its little red hand is pointing at. I do enjoy how that same little red hand snaps to the 12 o’clock position when the chronograph is engaged with a reasonably positive detent tactility.

Likewise, it always elicits a tiny bit of childish joy when I reset the chronograph and see the main seconds hand whiz back smoothly to its origin point. One thing which is not often spoken of is how the lower chronograph pusher allows you to freeze the seconds hand while the chronograph is engaged. When you push that same lower pusher once more, it jumps forward to the elapsed time. Nifty!

Are You Experienced?

On my 7.25” wrist, the SBDL095 wear pretty much perfectly - at 41mm diameter, 45.8mm lug-to-lug, and 13.4mm thick, this watch would likely suit those with 6.5” wrists and up. Those leery of excessively thick watches will be glad to know that it does not exceed 14mm thick - although its presence on wrist is undeniable - though there would be little chance of knocking it on doorframes and the heads of small children, short of being completely careless when out and about.

For those who are wondering about the feel on wrist - the SBDL095 is no slouch in the department of heft, although this is more due to the overall sizing - and mass - of the stainless steel case and bracelet, accompanied by that rather sizeable sapphire crystal. I can’t image the quartz movement adding much in terms of weight; thus if you were to put this side-by-side with an average automatic watch - perhaps a Seiko Turtle - you will feel a certain degree of weight savings. However, you would certainly notice the SBDL095 as it accompanies you throughout your day, in a reassuring way, of course.

As someone who made the conscious decision to make the purchase, the SBDL095 is likely to stay in my collection for the foreseeable future until the day where Seiko decides to reissue the venerable 7A28-701A Speedmaster; but a case could be made to retain both.

In light of the number of limited editions Seiko release based on models from its back catalogue, it is quite refreshing to observe how this Speedtimer is 1. not a limited edition and thus enabling a broad swathe of us to enjoy; 2. Is a follow-up to the 39mm model and giving us some variety to choose from; 3. Has aesthetic motifs distinct enough that it cannot quite be accused of being a Daytona homage.

If you are considering this watch, all you have to mindful of is its 21mm lug width (*makes teeth gnashing sounds*), and while Seiko might just have gotten most of it right in a tidy and relatively affordable package, the SBDL095 might also leave a few of us wanting. I know I can live with its foibles, but it is up to you dear reader, to decide for yourself. As always, do check it out in person, and see if it fits in your collection - or not.

PS: only writing this as I took the lume shot last: the lume is okay at best, certainly not mind-blowing. Ta!