One & Done: Chapter Sixteen - Longines (#defsoneanddone)

Foreword

Welcome and welcome back! If you're new here, I'm exploring the 20 best-selling watch brands of 2022 (as seen on GQ Australia) and answering the question: If I could only have one watch from this brand FOREVER, which would I pick?

WELCOME TO THE TOP FIVE!

Today we are looking at Longines, but if you want to see my previous article where I covered Patek Philippe, follow #defsoneanddone or click the link here!

#5: Longines – Avigation BigEye Titanium

For those who have read chapter upon chapter of my #defsoneanddone series, you would know by now that I very much like my watches that are “just the right amount of goofy.” However, it’s not precisely my be-all, end-all for design criterium. I’ve also said in my Breitling chapter that I enjoy when a brand puts a modern spin on a vintage-inspired reference – a piece that’s too vintage-inspired can often feel too contrived, whilst ultra-modernism and contemporary designs tend to scare off the old-heads that aren’t quite ready for the future of high horology.

Of course, there is no wrong answer for being on either side of the argument – there is mass appeal regardless of what you like, from Cyrus to Cyma! But in my opinion, to paraphrase Bob Ross: “If you have light on light, you have nothing. If you have dark on dark, you basically have nothing.”

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcZf-bHgYTk

Often, if you ask anyone who’s anyone in the watch world, there are very few companies like Longines, who not only tread the line between vintage and modern but consistently knock it out of the park. This article is proof of such consistency – I was initially going to write about the Longines Master 190th Anniversary pieces, which are themselves a testament to what they do daily. However, I had to choose just one, and to me, nothing embodies the modern interpretations of old-school cool quite like the Titanium Avigation BigEye.

Taking inspiration from the pilot chronographs of old, as well as what I can only assume to be an entire Bible’s worth of vintage Longines references, the BigEye is the modern man’s alternative to vintage heritage without ageing a million years on the wrist. Despite its size at 41mm case diameter and a whopping 14.5mm thickness, the modernity in this piece is evident the moment you pick it up – Grade 2 Titanium encases the L688 movement inside, offering both 40% more durability and 30% more lightness on the wrist, so despite having prominence, you will never feel weighed down at the wrist.

Also, titanium tends to buff out scratches better than standard steel. Don’t ask me how I know that, though. I [allegedly] almost had to start writing a new resumé.

The first thing most people will notice about the wearing experience of the watch is that it is L.O.N.G long! At 49mm, it’s definitely not built for those with particularly small wrists, but despite its lack of accessibility I find it more appealing as a result – any smaller, the thickness of the piece will stand out too much, and you’ll end up with a Monaco-esque profile on your wrist. Not to mention, it would also sully the pilot's heritage, where these pieces are traditionally worn on the outside of clothing.

Not saying that a Monoco-esque wrist profile is a bad thing, but when it comes to a watch like the BigEye, a thick round watch with short lugs will just end up looking like a can of tuna. Imagine the Sky-Dweller if they made the lugs as short as TAG Heuer does! It would be weird-looking.

Aesthetically, the vintage stylings of the BigEye become most evident in the dial itself, which was based on – and looks exactly like – a singular 1930s pilot’s chronograph that made its way to the Longines museum. Though the exact origins of this authentic, albeit lonely singular reference are unknown, at this point it seems hardly relevant. In 2017, Longines resurrected this reference in all its vintage glory, staying faithful to the design in every way and eventually winning the Best Revival Award at the GPHG.

It seems to me that every day there is a new GPHG award for something. I often wonder if I’ll be able to win a prize for “most pretentious watch article writer,” but then I realise Hodinkee would win it every single year. Good job, Hodinkee!

To spice things up in 2021, Longines opted to pull a few modern tricks out of their hat. The dull grey of the titanium really helps the fumé blue dial to tastefully pop out when viewing the timepiece on hand and on the wrist, adding that extra bit of modern contrast and intrigue to an otherwise old-fashioned watch. The quirky appeal is further enhanced by the asymmetry brought about by the BigEye’s namesake: the enlarged 30-minute subdial, as well as warmer tones being introduced by a healthy dollop of fauxtina on the hands, indexes and large Arabic numerals.

And yes, I know that fauxtina isn’t for everyone, but in my opinion it is very much needed. The titanium and blue alongside the rhodium (I think) hands all feel much too cold, so the light brown leather strap and the honeyed colour of the fauxtina bring a balance to the watch that may have been otherwise missing.

For a catalogue as excellent and diverse as Longines’, not many have captured my attention quite like the Avigation BigEye. A true standout in a crowded room of horological greats, the BigEye masterfully bridges the gap between vintage inspiration and modern functionality. Its blend of classic design elements, modern materials and contemporary proportions makes it a compelling choice for those seeking a harmonious fusion of the past and the present in a wristwatch.

Longines has once again showcased its prowess in delivering a watch that not only tells a story of the past but also pushes the boundaries of watchmaking into the future. The Avigation BigEye stands as a testament to the brand's ability to honour tradition while embracing modernity – something that must be respected by everyone, regardless of whether they see eye-to-(Big)eye in the watch world.

I'll see myself out for that pun. I hope you enjoyed it! Do you like the steel or titanium one more?

Next Stop: Audemars Piguet! I may offend some people, but whatever :P