Vintage inspired dive watch

I'm very much in a one in one out point in my watch collection. I have a watch I could wear in any conceivable situation I would find myself in, and for the most part I'm satisfied with what I have. But we all know that in this hobby, you're always thinking about what you could change and what the next piece will be.

There are three watches I own that I would consider upgrading. My Christopher Ward C63 GMT is great and I'm in no hurry to replace it. But at some point in my life I think I'll either have an Explorer II or a Grand Seiko SBGN005. I really like my Lunar Pilot, and a chrono is not something I wear often enough to really need something better. It feels and looks more expensive than it is. It's a strap monster, and anything I would replace it with are orders of magnitude more expensive. Finally there's my Bulova MIL-SHIPS.

I do really like the MIL-SHIPS. My favorite watches of all time are the 1950's Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, and this is very much in that same wheelhouse. An actual vintage Blancpain or any of the limited editions with that size are way out of my price range, so this is a good substitute with actual history. However, it does have some drawbacks. It doesn't feel as premium as my other watches. It doesn't exactly feel cheap, but it's closer to an entry level Seiko or Orient than something like my Christopher Ward. The movement isn't very good. It keeps good time, and the sweep is actually a pretty good approximation of a vintage watch, but when it needs service, it will make more sense to just replace the whole thing. Finally, the 16mm straps aren't a huge issue, but it does limit options quite a bit.

I do like having a vintage inspired watch though. I like being able to have that look without the worry involved in wearing one of my actual vintage pieces. So I'm looking at other dive watches in that vein. I want something 39-43mm (though 40-42 would be ideal), that has a 50's or 60's look, and preferably has no date (having a date on an occasional wear piece can be annoying). I've been looking at a few watches, but would love to hear opinions from others.

  1. Omega Seamaster 300: I think this watch is very good looking. I think it's more than I would like to spend on a new watch, but used models seem reasonable. I also don't own an Omega. The downsides are that I think it probably feels dressier than I want, and the 21mm lug width is annoying (I have no 21mm straps, but tons of 20mm and 22mm).

  2. JLC Polaris Automatic: If the Green Dial had a not date option, I think that would be my pick, but the black no date model is still very good looking. The downsides though mostly match the Omega (too dressy, expensive, 21mm lug width), plus I own a JLC.

  3. Oris Divers 65: I like the Oris Brand, and you can find these at a great price. Unfortunately, the no date version with the grey dial looks awfully cartoony to me in pictures (it's the blue indices), but perhaps it's different in person?

  4. Zodiac Super Sea Wolf 53 Skin: I think the Zodiac brand is a little to into limited edition color runs, but I do like the way this watch looks. The two downsides are the size and the movement. 39mm isn't small, and it might be different when I try it on, but I find dive watches with an external bezel often seem small on my wrist when they're below 40mm. I also haven't heard the best things about the STP movement in terms of reliability.

  5. Longines Legend Diver Bronze: Make this exact watch with a stainless steel case, and I wouldn't be having this conversation, I'd just be buying one. Having never owned a bronze watch, I'm not sure I'd be into the patina and/or the upkeep to keep the watch looking new. The regular Legend Diver is also good (especially that brown dial), but has that pesky date.

The big missing watch from this list is a Tudor Black Bay 58 or Heritage 41. It was on my list, but I tried one on at an AD while I was there with my wife, and showed it to her. Her response was that she couldn't tell the difference between it and what I had been wearing (My Pelagos FXD). It seems the snow flake hands are the most distinct thing about both watches, and to her that made the watches identical. Combine that with already owning two Tudors, and this has been eliminated.

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I vote for the Omega Seamaster 300. It is a such beautiful watch with a vintage look. The sandwich dial and faux patina are done nicely without any gold contrasts. The 21mm lug width is annoying but the bracelet on the watch is great, tapers nicely and it also comes with a quick adjustment clasp.

The Longines is a also a beautiful choice.

If you have a Pelagos, get something different definitely.

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SMP for my money. 21 mm straps are a thing and I have no problems with it at all. Same thing on my Orient Star Outdoor. Give a nice proportion.

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Definitely worth trying the Oris in person if you can - super watch and one that is so much better “in real life”.

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I've had a 53 Skin for about 1 1/2 years and have been very happy with it. Before this watch I thought I preferred 40mm, but this has really become my favorite size (on my 7 1/4" wrist). No problems with it at all. Full disclosure: I rotate through about a dozen watches so I've worn it about 40 days in total. I originally was planning on purchasing it in black, but when I was able to see the black and cream side by side...

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I've had the SM300 for a few years, it's ridiculously accurate and flies under the radar with the general public. I'm a NATO wearer everyday & 22mm fit fine. Expensive initial purchase price but it has appreciated since I bought it used (not that I'd ever part with it) . ...if that's stretching the budget I'd also recommend the 62MAS reeditions by Seiko - good looking tough daily that has a dlc coating that holds up marvelously to constant abuse.

The pic is on a 22mm Watchgecko "original Bond" ( previously posted as the watch Connery should have worn)

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The original Tornek Rayville was a 60s Blancpain. These reissues still have the look. Good luck getting one. They sell out in seconds

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Sinnguy

The original Tornek Rayville was a 60s Blancpain. These reissues still have the look. Good luck getting one. They sell out in seconds

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The inability to get one of those was one of the big reasons I got the Bulova in the first place.