Christopher Ward Bel Canto Review
"Ding!" — I glance down at the chime, realizing it's time to wrap up work for the day.
After a year of waiting, my Bel Canto has arrived. (More accurately, it was six months of waiting followed by six more months of waiting followed by one final month as the cherry.) I was intrigued by Christopher Ward watches for some time before selecting where to drop my coin. When the blue Bel Canto hit the scene in 2022, I let it pass (too colorful, said I). Then, the green Bel Canto flew right by without my noticing. When a trio of new colors — black, pink, and purple — were launched at the end of that year, I immediately registered for the "Nero", the most boring of the set with its soft anthracite dial. On a black strap, to boot, to be even more boring.
Upon opening the box, this watch is gorgeous.
The layering of matte and polished surfaces over the darker, brushed dial creates a wonderful hierarchy of light. The unfortunate side-effect is a widely recognized legibility issue — you need an extra second to visually separate the small hands from similarly-sized bridge they are suspended over. I am curious if an alternative treatment of the hands or movement could solve the legibility issue without sacrificing the elegance of the design. Oris tried to solve the same issue on the ProPilot X Calibre 115, using heavily-lumed and brushed hands over a galvanized, darker gray, movement.
Oris came closer to a solution for legibility within complexity — C. Ward might want to take note.
I have tried on a few Christopher Ward watches at New York City's Worn & Wound events, and even their large dive watches watches have impressed me with restrained lug-to-lug distances that prevent the dreaded "lug-dangle" (I don't tangle with dangle). The Bel Canto's titanium case is no different with a length of 48mm, the stepped design standing tall (13mm) but within the boundaries of my 7.25"/184mm wrist.
The presence of the strap seems more suited to a Panerai than this delicate titanium watch.
I must now address the leather strap. The Bel Canto is 41mm, and not slim, but it is titanium — it is LIGHT. You do not need a ton of strap to keep it feeling secure on your wrist. On first wear, my aging fingers appreciated the barely-tapered 22mm band, but the supple leather fought me a little at that size (more width, more room to flex). Viewed from under the wrist, the presence of the strap seems more suited to a Panerai or a night of bondage than this particular watch. I applied a 20mm-16mm tapered Veblenist strap as a test and, liking how it looked, I may order a 22-16 for the Bel Canto.
Setting the Bel Canto accurately is close to pointless. The minute track on the little face is very small and the minute hand overlaps it. You need to REALLY concentrate to set the time. For an alternate version, I would remove the minute track and focus on improving the legibility on the hands (no bevels, no polish, more lume) and darken the ring and bridge behind them. The chime is the hero of this watch — we all know it. With that and +/- 20 seconds accuracy, there is no reason to pretend this is the watch you wear to be on time to the minute.
I ordered the Bel Canto to try filling the complication gap in my collection with its ‘Sonnerie au Passage’. I've got my quartzes, my digitals, my automatic and manual wind watches, but the highest "complication" I had until now was a dive bezel. The chime reminds me to check my meeting schedule. The tail of the bird, slowly rising as it closes in on the hour, adds to the time-telling experience. I'm not sure if it will stay in my collection, but I will enjoy every gear of it in the meantime.
Christopher Ward Bel Canto Review
Yes
No
- Design and layers of detail
- Stepped case profile
- Delightful chime
- Low legibility for time telling and setting
- Beefy watch strap
- No volume setting to really crank the chime
I followed the same path as you in that I opted for the safe dial colour that is black. My thinking was, & still is, that if I don't like the watch, black is the dial that will appeal to the most people should I opt to sell.
I paid the advance deposit in Dec 22, some 14 months ago. I still await further information as to when I can expect my Bel Canto. The passing of time has seen the anticipation of owning the watch virtually disappear from my mind. It is only when I get a visual reminder on WC that people are receiving their orders, does it register my delivery is imminent.
This experience, coupled with an even longer wait time for my AnOrdain, will be the last time I pay a significant advance for a watch I've never seen, at a future date that can't be guaranteed. The risk is all on the consumer in giving up the use of their funds for a pledge from a company limited in it's liabilities.
I love Christopher Ward but I won't be assisting their business model by advancing them my money for 12+ months in future. Their business has seen it's turnover grow by over 80% in the last 5 years. In their most recent financials their US sales grew by 41% over the previous 12 months. It's time for the company to redress the balance of risk & stand on their own two feet.
ps Congrats on the watch, I hope that it's all you had wished for & that you enjoy wearing it 👍
I followed the same path as you in that I opted for the safe dial colour that is black. My thinking was, & still is, that if I don't like the watch, black is the dial that will appeal to the most people should I opt to sell.
I paid the advance deposit in Dec 22, some 14 months ago. I still await further information as to when I can expect my Bel Canto. The passing of time has seen the anticipation of owning the watch virtually disappear from my mind. It is only when I get a visual reminder on WC that people are receiving their orders, does it register my delivery is imminent.
This experience, coupled with an even longer wait time for my AnOrdain, will be the last time I pay a significant advance for a watch I've never seen, at a future date that can't be guaranteed. The risk is all on the consumer in giving up the use of their funds for a pledge from a company limited in it's liabilities.
I love Christopher Ward but I won't be assisting their business model by advancing them my money for 12+ months in future. Their business has seen it's turnover grow by over 80% in the last 5 years. In their most recent financials their US sales grew by 41% over the previous 12 months. It's time for the company to redress the balance of risk & stand on their own two feet.
ps Congrats on the watch, I hope that it's all you had wished for & that you enjoy wearing it 👍
I may be writing off advance-purchasing as well, especially for another un-tested production like the Bel Canto. I also have an anOrdain on delivery, but that will be the last anOrdain. My attention span is too short, and tastes too fickle, to order something for 4-6 years in the future. I'll leave that to stronger wills.
And thanks — the Bel Canto is everything I was looking forward to, even with it's foibles.
Great review 👏🏻
I may be writing off advance-purchasing as well, especially for another un-tested production like the Bel Canto. I also have an anOrdain on delivery, but that will be the last anOrdain. My attention span is too short, and tastes too fickle, to order something for 4-6 years in the future. I'll leave that to stronger wills.
And thanks — the Bel Canto is everything I was looking forward to, even with it's foibles.
AnOrdain's situation is quite ridiculous. I say that as someone that absolutely 100% wants success for the company. They're based in my home town, they're Scottish & have a beautiful product. All of these factors increase my desire to own one of their watches.
I understand the difficulties they have. They're a young company operating out of a country that doesn't have a history of watchmaking. The skilled labour isn't there to call upon should they wish to expand rapidly. Capital is in all likelihood limited, therefore their need for security & the need to minimise risk is greater than that of Christopher Ward. They are however really pushing the boundaries of tolerance when the time between an advance deposit & delivery of your watch is 18 months.
I'm fairly patient. I don't get anxious or overly excited at the prospect of an incoming new watch, particularly one that I haven't seen or held in my hand. My objection to these prolonged wait times is purely a matter of principle. AnOrdain are the watchmaking epitome of where huge demand & limited means to respond to it, can end up inflicting reputational damage that turns consumer's attention elsewhere.
I want mine! @ChristopherWard make it happen. 😂
I love this watch..... on my grail list
Congrats, I love mine, yip legibility isn't the best but I actually have a few watches where legibility isn’t the greatest but it does have a great trick up its sleeve, looks very nice as well. Wish mine had black hands that would elevate it even further.
Wow black looks so much better than the baby blue. And I ordered baby blue baci about 14 months ago. CW recently notified me that my watch is ready to ship as well. Hopefully I will get the delivery soon. I opted away from the black because I have several black dial watches already. Dark blue was not available. and I wasn't about to buy green, purple or salmon. So I got the light blue. and now I'm worried (
Wow black looks so much better than the baby blue. And I ordered baby blue baci about 14 months ago. CW recently notified me that my watch is ready to ship as well. Hopefully I will get the delivery soon. I opted away from the black because I have several black dial watches already. Dark blue was not available. and I wasn't about to buy green, purple or salmon. So I got the light blue. and now I'm worried (
I think the light blue is cool too - you get color variance because of the texture of the metal dial. This video shows some of that: https://youtu.be/Jaj1oqUdx-I?si=NnjrvKGhoK36NMeq
I think the light blue is cool too - you get color variance because of the texture of the metal dial. This video shows some of that: https://youtu.be/Jaj1oqUdx-I?si=NnjrvKGhoK36NMeq
God willing)
Great review 👏🏻
Thanks!