If available, do you select from your own country?

https://12and60.com/a-complete-list-of-british-watchmakers-a-to-z/

No idea on percentage made in UK tho....

Well Christopher Ward is Swiss made so I'm guessing the only thing from the UK is Mike France. I believe horage and nomos are also in house. Rolex and Tudor are in house as they own the movement manufacturer.

Yeh I know this list. Take Studio underdog, celebrated throughout. They have the same movement as the 1963 (which you can buy for £150). UK company selling a Chinese made watch.

One day would love to have a Weiss or any of the other mostly US block chained/made watches. But that's down the road a bit.

Yup, really don't get the hype for them myself, shite movement, awful design and overpriced!!

For properly UK made I guess you can only find them at the very top end, like Roger Smith.

Did pay a visit to Loomes, they're in Stamford just up the road from me & it was very interesting & helpful chap - unfortunately way,way beyond my budget!

The team is based in two places I believe, one in England and the other in Switzerland. I think there way of business demands that suppliers are involved heavily in the process and they have high end designers which are well documented to me CW are no different to the majority of the others in Switzerland but the question is do we know the makers of everything? Rolex have only just recently been able to claim this after buying their suppliers. Up to this point they were assembling a large part from their supply chain. What about JLC, a powerhouse for movement manufacturing, are they fully vertical, do they make everything. I’m looking for a list of the purist makers. The trinity certainly buy in parts but can somebody give a definite answer?

Struthers are one who you could say are as close as can be called vertical. https://www.instagram.com/p/C1eVh8zLANp/?igsh=Yzl6dDF0ZTg0YXJm

If you are talking about every part, I can only think of Seiko but I'm sure there are more (there must be)

It’s a global question not just a U.K. based one. I don’t think the U.K. companies are doing anything different to any other microbrands. Studio Underdog are doing great and I’m not saying they are not BUT there are 3 places that makes up most of the global manufacturing

• The Swiss

• The Japanese

• The Chinese

There are components that can be Swiss watches that don’t come from Switzerland whist still retaining the ‘Swiss made’ The is the legal definition to be classed as Swiss made: For 'Swiss Made,' the watch's production cost (as a whole) must be Swiss-based and should comprise at least 60% in total; however, if it is a mechanical Swiss watch, there should be at least 80% of the production cost that is connected to the operations conducted in Switzerland.

This means that technically 40% of the Swiss watch can be made in China for 20% or less than the total production cost. So which companies don’t do this, which companies are vertically integrated. Citizen and Seiko are. Are there any others? I bet there are definitely Chinese companies that are and are making the microbrand watches that we all rave about without actually acknowledging that they are Chinese made.

Citizens are titans in this field. They almost single hadedly destroyed the Swiss in the 70 when they opened up their first production line.

Absolutely, excellent. So we have a list of 4

Roger Smith

Struthers

Citizen

Seiko

Rolex?

Let’s add to the list

Wrong, both Citizen and Seiko have watches made in China.

As far as watches that are truly 100% produced in their country of origin. Possibly Rolex, Patek Phillipe and a few other Swiss brands, but to be honest I wouldn't bet my house on any of them. The Chinese can produce cases and bracelets every bit as good as any Swiss factory at a fraction of the price, so why would any brand not want to cash in on it. I have learned to lose my obsession with where watches are produced, rather than how good they actually are. In my large collection of watches I own three San Martin's, and to be honest their build quality and finish matches that of most Swiss brands costing ten times as much

Would we separate Grand Seiko as well as they are technically separate these days? Rolex deserve the question mark lol

Every brand has to start somewhere. In the case of the UK, the industry has had to rebuild, re-learn, recover from years of dormancy. It may be years before the UK brands achieve what the other countries have been able to produce/manufacture but it’s generally a step in the right direction. Social media and offshore manufacturing has allowed microbrands (from all over the world) to produce compelling designs in market sectors that the big Swiss brands have not inhabited yet.

Unlike some of the other ‘emerging’ watch producing countries, the British brands have grouped together with the British Watchmakers Alliance. It allows the brands to share resources/information and have a greater voice. It’s definitely an exciting time for those involved

Both Citizen and Seiko have full vertical integration but also make things in China

I’d expect Sea-Gull watches are 100 percent made in their country of origin, and you can probably say the same about many other Chinese brands (except for those that use Japanese or Swiss movements, of course). Brands like Feice, Naviforce, Megir, Winner, Lige, etc.

But that’s probably not what you were looking for.

The only reason I put the question mark is because there is no information. The company are so secretive that you can’t find definitive answers. I find it funny when an old Daytona goes for mega bucks when it’s actually a Zenith movement with a Rolex case and dial. I’m not sure about Grand Seiko if they are truly separate or take things from the parts bin.

Update to avoid upseting current Daytona owners. Rolex dropped in their own movement from 2003, before this Zenith.

I agree on the Rolex sentiment, for sure. I'd be surprised if GS use a Seiko parts bin though 🤣 now I'm going down the rabbit hole to investigate!

Hahahaha should be interesting!

So according to Wallace Allan, "A fully integrated manufacture, Grand Seiko produce all components in-house at their Shizukuishi Watch Studio in Morioka, Japan."

Excellent! So they can stay on the list.

That bel canto is the coolest looking watch design I have seen in some time!

Yes if I had the money. I live in Maryland minutes outside of Washington DC. There are at least 5 or 6 micro/boutique watch brands within an hour drive. With the right lottery ticket, RGM is less than 2 hours away in Pennsylvania.

So to answer your question, yes. Not only do I not have to look outside of my country, I don't even have to leave the State to fill multiple watchboxes.

Good thing I'm broke as hell 🤣

(Edited addition)

This is one example of one of the companies. The watch is named after the town in which I grew up.

https://youtu.be/2GN45a07XMs?si=0tnEs3S5VvCqvask